Nha Trang, Vietnam - Transitions
National Geographic has condemned Nha Trang beaches in 2010 as suffering "over development without a watchful eye". I could sense some of this as my fellow travellers and I walked along the main beach area (the Tran Phu coast), noticing continuing construction of major hotels along an otherwise clean and soft sand stretch with outer isles visible on the horizon. The Tutukaka Coast of Northland in New Zealand, the northern coast of Mozambique, Broome in Western Australia and the southern coast of Sri Lanka were rated highly by Nat Geo in that survey (99 Top Coastal Destinations on http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/coastal-destinations-rated/
Above picture shows a view from the KFC joint in the tourist hub in Nha Trang, especially favoured by Russian visitors of all ages as the city has direct flight connections with Russia. Not far from this corner is the Sailing Club.
A bird's eye view of Nha Trang city from a look out point (picture above) contrasts with the main city beach in the early morning mid-week (photo below). The city has lively markets in the evenings, a growing population drawing immigration from other parts of Vietnam and is foreseen to have significant changes in the coming years - I am reminded of Phuket and Pattaya in Thailand in their hectic tourist affected years in the seventies and eighties. How this late comer to the competitive beach scene navigates through the economic, commercial and political temptations, opportunities and dangers of being an international beach destination, is worth watching. There is an interesting local life away from the tourist areas and how the benefits and risks of tourism affect them is in the end the most important thing, apart form the tourist dollars. Nha Trang was the site of the Miss Universe competition in 2008.
A placid moment with only few vehicles in front of the official government building of culture (above). The municipal area continues to expand with housing and commercial development across what was once naturally kept plains towards the mountains (below). Both the French colonists and American marines loved this place fortunate enough to have an impressive bay - which Travel & Leisure magazine included as part of the top 29 beautiful bays in the world. Its site harks back to the Champa Kingdom more than a thousand years ago - you can view the rather intact Po Nagar Towers north of Nha Trang central. It is now a significant scuba diving, kite boarding, birds nest collection and lobster farming centre for Vietnam, although do avoid the monsoon season from mid-October to December.
Art deco (above) can be encountered along the main strip at Nha Trang's city beach. Below, a view from the top floor of our hotel looking out at a main tourist street replete with scuba diving shops, local food and fruit outlets, tourist orientated cafes and restaurants, retail shops offering day excursions and visitor accommodation. There is a heightened risk of security and creepiness late at night in Nha Trang, although when we were there it approached Halloween night, with many street and restaurant parties not just involving visitors but the locals.
My group had the chance to spend a day at a beach an hour by van out of Nha Trang and we already noticed more beach hotels being built or planned as we went along the highways away from the city itself.
We had a local themed lunch like a picnic, with tasty grilled meats on skewers, lots of cut fruits and salads plus cold beer and drinks. Life looks more pleasurable and simpler lying on a deck chair on a remote beach in Vietnam.
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