Ajisen Ramen from Kumamoto- Sydney NSW

There can be such a big number of ramen stalls and restaurants these days in any large city around the world.  What makes one more attractive or better in taste or experience when compared to another?

Ajisen stock soup, although still based on pork bone flavours, is not so thick, provides a different taste and yet can be addictive in a different way.  The hard boiled eggs have a yellow yolk instead of orange.  The X factor for me was the chill condiment, not overly hot, but gives a flavour kick till I finished almost all the soup, once I got the condiment stirred in.   Those who prefer a lighter sensation with their ramen can try the Ajisen recipe. On my most recent visit, I tried the in-house version but I also noticed a tom yum version of ramen soup.   Is that taking cross- cultural vibes too far? Maybe not, as the ramen model has successfully transposed itself across various cultures and countries.

I found the gyoza (pan-fried dumplings) lovely and with a wonderful blend of cut ingredients inside - they feel and taste like home made yummy.  The donburi section of the menu provides the Pai ku don (tenderloin pork ribs with sauce on rice) and what stands out in the entree is the soft shell crab.  For vegetarians, there is a version of the adegashi tofu, always a great choice to test the quality of a cafe or restaurant.  And I did acknowledge the renkon chips, really suitable to go with beer!  These are simply deep fried lotus root slices.  Three choices of green tea are available - the premium Genmaicha, premium Sencha and the Houjicha.

Originally from Japan, the Ajisen chain has the logo featuring a little girl named Chii-Chan. In Australia, I understand that there are six more Ajisen outlets apart from the World Square in Sydney - at 270 Forest Road St George and in Melbourne - in Hawthorn, Boxhill, La Trobe Street Melbourne Central, Glen waverley and at 130 Bourke Street in the CBD.

Ajisen hailed from Kumamoto on Japan's southern island of Kyushu.  Well known for its iconic castle, the prefecture also hosts a variety of universities - and there in I can see the connection between a steady good reliable ramen model and a large potential market.  I recall being in Kumamoto many years ago and loved the character of the island, with impressive memories as well of Oita and of course Nagasaki.  Even though we are on the other side of the Pacific, I feel fortunate that we can have access to so many varieties of ramen from Japan.

Gumshara Ramen - Sydney Chinatown

The progress of what was simply street food with noodles and tasty soup, whether it is referred to as ramen in this contemporary age, or called shina soba until the 1950s, is a  fascinating journey of cultural fusion, care for ingredients and continuing innovation. Soba can be unique to what we know as Japanese cuisine, but the ramen is said to be a Japanese way of saying la mian in Mandarin, literally meaning hand pulled noodles.  Depending on which part of Asia you visit, there are various versions of such hand made noodles, apart from the Indian sub-continent and the Middle East.  The mainland Chinese form of such a dish was already cooked in thick and starchy concoctions of gravy.

Today this thickness in noodle soup dishes was confronted by me at the Gumshara Ramen stall in the often crowded but unassuming food court at the end of Dixon Street, Sydney Chinatown, bordering with Goulburn Street.   Never have I seen such gooey richness and concentrated so-called soup accompanying noodles.  There were the usual half hard boiled eggs with outstanding yolks, Nori seaweed garnish and compulsory pork portions. I had looked forward to the version I finally had - not just with tonkotsu broth but with the special magic of fish based stock. It was a revelation - the Japanese had combined the best flavours of the sea with the rewarding essence of the versatile bovine. It may not be to everyone's preference, but I liked most of it, although the bowl I had was really rich, though I would never ask for a dilution of such broth.

A food court with mostly, if not all, Asian dishes usually has people usually sitting tightly together savouring what they love best - and in Australia, this means anything from Indonesian padang rice to Hainan chicken and Korean bim bap.   At times the best food can be found hidden amidst the noise, the clutter and such crowdedness. What would happen if Gumshara had equity backed funding and moved to a fancy setting?   Would the taste be commensurate with what is to be paid? At around ten dollars a bowl, this may be the best bargain in Japanese ramen in Sydney.  Noodles are made from basic ingredients like salt, water, wheat flour and alkaline mineral water.   The proof is in the soup, the recipe behind it and how the soups are made hour after hour.   Whether it contains natural flavouring stuff like skipjack tuna flakes or pork ribs, the proportions do count in the outcomes of the final product.

Gumshara is also noted for its rather obvious chunky offerings of pork ribs on the bone, braised sufficiently to provide opportunities for crunchiness and texture.  The other alternative, also popular with many other competitors of Gumshara, is the cha shu or sliced barbecued or braised pork, some with red coloured rinds.  I avoid the lactate fermented bamboo shoots but do have a soft spot for those season boiled eggs.  Freshly made ramen puts us off the instant varieties and these are often at the opposite ends of the spectrum for satisfying gratification and quality finesse.  The bowl I consumed looked to me comparable to Takayama ramen - but Gumshara has produced its own feel of a rather delicate dish.

So what makes Gumshara different from others? Is it the more buttery and collagen laden broth? The name itself evokes concentration or franticness by one's self and not being recognisant of the people or surroundings around. Is this an effect once one dives into the Gumshara soup? Is the food much more oily than one expects from Japanese cuisine, mostly due to the liberal utilisation of the flavours from pork bone and ribs?  I reckon each has to decide for him or herself and not be taken by the hype but immerse in reality.  I would return to Gumshara but maybe more on an early morning or mid-afternoon.  And ramen is always perfect for a nippy winter's day.

Ryos Japanese, Crows Nest - Sydney

Ramen comes in various forms and feel from different parts of Japan - Ryo's offer a distinct Tokyo taste in stock soup and texture of thin noodles. Although favourite soups come laden with rich brews in pork and chicken, Ryo's does also provide a distinctive blend of both fish and pork stock ( or tonkotsu-gyokai). The intensity of the soups at Ryo's seem to appear lighter, but that does not detract from a rewarding taste. One tends to compare ramen experiences with those of the home country, in the nearby Korean peninsular and in various joints, upmarket or not, scattered in homes and hubs in various immigrant portions of Western cities. Not only is the quality of the soup important, but I reckon the cut and taste of well chosen pork or chicken cuts do affect the overall sensation. When one consumes ramen, one must acknowledge the origins of this dish, essentially street food, echoing of working class struggles, the charm and expertise of individuals who labour over the art and joy of cooking them and the village like communal atmosphere which has nurtured this quintessential East Asian inspiration.  It may be also important to not mix up judgements of ramen with those aspects in slurping up pasta or partaking Chinese vermicelli, for although possibly related by history and culture, ramen stands a world apart from pasta and its other variations originating in different geographical regions. Ramen culture echoes the uniqueness and nuances of Japanese society.

Ryo's on the lower north shore of greater Sydney has an unassuming facade outside and is rather small inside, offering only a few tables and a stooled bar counter for clients. Whatever space on the walls are filled up with hand written strips of paper, reminiscent of Nippon temples and Tibetan impressions. "Ryo" means to be magnificent, excel and exceed. In this respect, this particular business lives up to its name, in attracting people to line up outside its small shop front, to make them come back for more and create a positive representation of street food in a corner of Crows Nest away from the main strip of cafes and restaurants. A rather tanned guy opens its doors occasionally to admit two or three customers at a time. This is a place where it pays to arrive early, otherwise one would be caught with a sure test of the limits of one's patience - and it can be rather warm lining up under the full sun along Falcon Street. There is not an extensive menu list - but you do have options in dumplings and side snacks if you do not want noodles. You inevitably end up sharing tables with strangers who can potentially be friends - and that is the purpose of it all, to partake food together in a communal fashion. The prices are rather reasonable when compared with the Ippudos of the world - and in this respect, I am reminded more of the Menya joints in Sydney CBD than anything else. The compulsory egg is served with each Ryo bowl, which is smaller than its competitors. One thing about Ryo is that you eat as fast as you can, go and allow other people to take your seat. Maybe it should be located near transport hubs and rail stations, where a never ending of passer-bys can take care of their meals and move on.

I also am reminded of Vietnamese pho joints around Sydney, where diner turnover, speed of service and a practical approach add to the value of doing a business. Yes, there is the contraption of sauces, the chopstick pairs and the folded serviette paper sitting and staring at us from the table. There is a family of four hovering behind me near the door. The several people who share our table just speak enjoyably in Mandarin, with not a word of English from them. You can have a spicy variation of the soup, although I often prefer the clear version instead. What I wondered is the signature difference between Tokyo ramen with other versions? Is it Hakata styled tonkotsu or pork bone cuts, or having sweet dried sardines or bonito with chicken to build up the broth? Must the stock be a bit fatty to bring out the flavours? Shoyu, or soy sauce, must be cleverly used in a diligent way to avoid leaving an excessive lingering of thirstiness in clients - and natural flavours are to be preferred, instead of resorting to the easy option of adding MSG. Tokyo's ramen are often found along narrow and tiny lanes. What is always a winner are having those chunky chashu pork slices to adorn a piping hot bowl of ramen.

Not far from Falcon Street is a hidden hub of cafes with breakfast and brunch menus, barista made coffees and one - Scurro's - with some cakes and sweet stuff. Such is the beauty and specialness of Australian cities and suburban areas. You can have your Japanese and still top up with Italian, modern Australian and the best of produce and ingredients. The day had got unseasonably warm and once again Australia was to witness a change in the Commonwealth Government in elections held for the 28th Prime Minister and the 44th term of Government in the nation. Multi-culturalism marches on and has become irreversible. The benefits in the fusion and availability of different cuisines around the world are not to be taken for granted.