Koi Dessert Bar Chippendale NSW

Not since Adriano Zumbo has there been such a huge adoration for a Patisserie chef in Sydney, Australia.    Reynold  Poernomo is young, slim and full of dreams.   He has an eye for the aesthetic, the detailed and the captivating - not just visually, but in arousing our template and inherent urge for the forbidden culinary world.   Human beings need relief from the mundane, the usual and the routine.    Reynold provides this at the Koi Dessert Bar in downtown Sydney in the revamped village hub of Kensington Street in Chippendale.


The menu creates more excitement with names from fairy tales and Nature.    The Forbidden Fruit suggests of a recreated apple, looking so red perhaps because of use of the raspberry Sorbet, but when you get digging into this, there are other treasures to discover - chocolate mousse, lime zest and raspberry gel, all sitting on a chocolate looking and tasting soil.    There is a definite pleasure to contrast the richer chocolate with the lighter but still sharp raspberry.


Some other dessert offerings are more direct to figure out -  Peach Please is dominated by peach jam, but is actually a rosemary flavoured yoghurt, enhanced with a Heillala vanilla mousse and sprinkled with a raspberry powder.   This turns out to be rather harmonised both on the palate and to the eyes.   Heilala vanilla is a brand found in Australia, often used in bakeries, noted for the vanilla seeds present and useful for light coloured recipes like Cream Brulee, custards and shortbreads.


T. Time suggests very East Asian, with a core of black tea ice cream, garnished by mandarins, chocolate pebbles,  a five spice hazelnut sponge and the French Creme De Meaux.

A central Koi Kitchen prepares the pretty and petite delights.    Back at Kensington Street, the openness of the goings-on at street level, with a hive of activity of mostly energetic staff, suggests an inviting world of what is happening behind the display.   It is a cobbled and paved lane in front,  as if a private enclosure, and you have entered an inner sanctum of Reynold's.


Cocktails, licensed bar offerings and a dimension of a way about town permeate upstairs.  It is as if you have climbed  up a traditional two storey house in the South Sea islands, but this one is surrounded by glass on most sides.    You can look down at a small flowering garden below.    The romance you have been caught in, blurry eyed, downstairs can continue in an affair upstairs.      

Mousse, sponge, Panacotta, gels, tarts and jelly.   Asian reminders like Matcha, sesame, Yuzu, coconut, green apple and lime.    Aussie standards like Pistachio, caramel,  white chocolate and yoghurt.    The compulsory little flower petals sitting on top of things that catch the eye.   Shapes that persist -  globes, pyramids, towers, rectangles and squares.


Colours do arise from the tropical origins of where Reynold's extended family came from.   Purple, yellow, orange and more.  They can at times remind me of the Straits Chinese kueh, but this a world away with Euro influences, fusion encouragement,  East Asian beauties and the best of new fangled ingredients.    Hidden in the delights is a reminder of the Bika Ambon, usually made with tapioca, sugar, coconut milk, yeast and eggs, but also versatile to combine with cheese and chocolate flavours.    At the same time, Tonka beans from Central America and the northern parts of South America are also used at the Koi   - the power of the beans is in their Coumarin, which is also utilised in the perfumery industry.

The expectations of customers can be subject to whims, sentiment and reality.   This can apply especially when when two of the artistes and chefs behind the creations from Koi have been on public television.   


Art can be a subjective thing - has Reynold Poernomo concentrated more on presentation, ingredients with taste?    Going forward, can he can consider more on texture and theme surprise?   To be fair, there have been this teasing play by Koi of how ingredients have been converted into shapes far from their what they usually are, for example fruits rediscovered in sheets.    Reynold also does love to surprise and make us smile  - several of his dessert creations involve cracking a surface, digging with anticipation inside and then changing our perceptions.   This process sweetens our experience and increases our anticipation all at the same time.


Do the regulars prefer more variations as time goes by, while retaining the favourites?   This is not easily answered.  If you have fallen in love with one creation, you would not want that replaced, but to create more variety, that means more to be made for the display shelf.


Koi does not just offer non-savoury items and has factored in a degustation menu away from the patisserie and desserts.    The non-dessert creations, from a chef with a background of Indonesian culinary influence, come from Arnold, brother to Reynold.   Mind you, there is another brother, Ronald, in the team as well   - and he specialises in cocktails.   Three brothers , each with his own unique talent.


Back to Arnold, he was a judge in the Indonesian version of Masterchef.     The one savoury dish from Arnold  for me is the duck breast   - roasted with charcoal;  served with duck hearts, butternut pumpkin, Swiss chard leafy veg with red stalks and onions; and flavoured with orange maple cider and red wine.    


The other test of culinary skills is in the Hiramasa kingfish, increasingly popular in fine dining these days  and Koi garnishes them with salmon roe, a puree of caramelised onions and mushrooms,  kelp oil plus smoked Dashi.    Dashi is an important stock and base for many things in Japanese cooking - usually made with kelp and preserved and fermented fish like the Skipjack Tuna  - and is essential to provide the significant Umami taste.

There are four variations as to how you wish to enjoy the Koi experience.  Many phone in orders for catering to collect or take home.    Walk-ins usually wait for a seat along the street and line up to obtain what is available on the display shelf.   Before dinner time, yet others order from down stairs but get a table in better ambient surroundings upstairs.   If you come after 6pm and want to go upstairs, you have to order from the degustation menus - dessert or a combination of savoury and dessert.


There are more variations at the licensed bar upstairs.   Serious coffee lovers may make the leap with a Gotta Have Espresso Tini, where Canadian maple syrup, Japanese Mirin, vanilla Vodka and Licor 43 mix with an espresso to provide the best of many worlds.   Licor 43 is reputed to have forty-three ingredients, but generally is a light citrusy liqueur from Spain, flavoured with vanilla and a host of aromatic herbs.    Mirin has a lower alcohol content compared to its other fellow rice wines


For something refreshing, I love the Bitter Balance, where an innocent shot of Angostura Bitters makes company with Campari, dark rum, burnt orange vanilla syrup and lime juice.    The seemingly healthy Banana Milkshake is laden with Baileys and a Caramel Vodka.   And who can not help noticing the Kevin Bacon, where the theme of bacon, truly, flows through its ingredients - Atzec chocolate bitters, Choc bacon and Bacon washed Bulleit Rye whiskey, all washed with maple syrup.

On street level, at certain times, it may look like a queue for seeing a pop star.   There is not much space to wait in front of the display, yet people patiently do so  - Japanese anime  dressers,   middle class families from the North shore,  tourists,  matronly types, youngsters.     Upstairs, there is a ruffle of activity and amidst the diners, there are single ladies, couples, party goers out on the town and the university people.






Koi Dessert Bar visited is located at 46 Kensington Street, Chippendale NSW.   This is the side of Kensington Street away from George Street.
Opening hours are from 10am to 10pm every day except Mondays.  Coffee and cakes are available from 10am to 10pm, whilst degustation dinner begins at 6pm.
Contact + 61 2 9212 1230
It has been announced for another outlet opening in Ryde NSW.





My other recommended creations to try at the Koi Dessert bar are:

Nomtella, served as a dome with a Brownie base and topped with salted caramel and Espresso flavoured mousse.

High Tea combination with matching tea blends  -  I understand this is the next frontier and adventure at Koi's.







 

Cool Mac Cafe Kirribilli NSW

Eggplant Benedict.

This is Cool McCool to me - and reaffirming that after so many years, Australia is still flowering with experimentation, fusion and coming out with delightful culinary results perhaps not so easily found else where. 

Japanese and French disciplines have bloomed some time ago in combination, exchange of techniques and in using the best of ingredients.  What about Japanese or other Asian inspirations with modern Australian?  Here in this seemingly unassuming cafe on the lower end of Burton Street, Kirribilli, on Sydney's lower north shore, something good is happening, even if small and gradually.  Whether for lunch or breakfast, I do find some interesting variations being served here.

Siracha and sesame are used to marinate chicken.   Ramen is cleverly labelled "Cool Men" and there are Kinoko mushrooms on simple toast.   A twist on noodle soups is the green tea flavoured soup, although I am not sure I will go down well on this.  Katsu is provided in a  roll remniscent of Mr Bao at York Street Sydney CBD or at the markets at the Bondi Beach Public School on Saturdays and at the Central Park Markets on Sunday mornings.   Coffee is by Campos.

There can be limited seating on a busy day but you can always take away.   The place is rather upper crust Sydney - I can hear of conversations about returning from New York, performing in London, the glories of running in cold weather and more.  Darling pets wait on the pavement fro their owners.  The cars on the street are Tesla, BMW and Benz. 

The Cool Mac Cafe visited is located at  Shop 2, 34 Burton Street, Kirribilli NSW.

Opening hours are from from 6am to 4pm every week day and from 7am to 4pm on weekends.
Contact + 61 2 9955 3087



My impressions of the Cool Mac Cafe in Kirribilli NSW:
Ambiance:  3 out of 5

Customer Engagement:  4 out of 5
Culinary Delight:  3.5 out of 5
X Factor:   3 out out of 5
Overall:     13.5 /  4  out of 5




My recommended dishes from the menu are:

Bang Bang Chicken Salad  -  tomatoes, cucumber and greens grace the sesame and Siracha flavoured chicken.


The Notorious Pig Roll -  old fashioned sweet soy pork belly, garnished by cabbage, pickles and black garlic , all stuffed in a Baguette.


Eggplant Benedict with toasted Pancetta and 63 degree Onsen eggs.

The Saint Aloysius College Junior School across Burton Street.

Babyface Kitchen Wollongong NSW

White radish salad, soy and Wasabi mustard grace the careful presentation of the raw slices of Hirashima King Fish.

Burnsbury Hospitality, with its themes on catering and dining functions, has recently opened something transformative for dining in the Wollongong city area.  They already operate 2 Smoking Barrels with craft beer at 9 Crown Street  - the Illawarra Brewery - and Son of a Gun food in conjunction with Mel Cox at Sifters Espresso.  The crafted beer theme continues in the Babyface Kitchen, but with a tilt towards fine Euro wine lists, fish and a strong emphasis on fusion creations with a Japanese flair.

The crispy skin Hiramashi King Fish is also done by Babyface in Miso broth  with herbs for a mains, instead of raw slices as in the entree.  Perhaps this selection of fish echoes the Babyface Kitchen's attitude, philosophy and adventure in preparing its fare for its customers.   My fellow luncher and I loved the paper thin raw slices we chose as starters and they came out precise, delicate and flavourful with every little bite.

Duck spring rolls are uplifted with Naam Jing Kai (Thai sweet sauce) and a radish salad.




An eight seater round table is also available for bookings. This aligns with community eating at the rather long bar and contrasts with tables for twosomes along the wall on the other side.  Babyface has extended further for customer seating into the original back room recesses not used by Pellegrini Cafe, the previous occupant.

Have Gavin Tidbury and Andrew Burns been bold in this latest venture, echoing their culinary philosophy in bringing crafted delights with a strong contemporary approach for discerning diners - and lifting the game in Wollongong? 

Meats are sourced from a Sydney based supplier, Vic's Meats.

What I would aim to try next time around is the Charcoal Chicken, flavoured by Togarashi (chilli pepper of capsicum) and garnished by lime, in half or whole chicken serving. 

Yuzu Kosho and Ponzu decorate the Borrowdale pork belly, garnished with apple puree.   The former is a fermented seasoning of Yuzu citrus, salt and chilli peppers, an icon from Kyushu Island.   The Ponzu is a derivation of the English word "Punch" as a citrus based sauce, often bottled in glass containers and used as dressing for light grills or utilised as dips for the Shabu Shabu hotpot.   Ponzu is usually made with Kombu (seaweed), tuna related Katsuobushi flakes, soy, rice vinegar and Mirin rice wine, before adding the vital ingredient of juice from lemon, Yuzu fruit or another citrus

The two of us on a rainy Sunday had the full attention and service from the young lady staff who was at ease with conversation, information and customer engagement.
The menu is divided easily into small, medium and larger serves - and then you work your way through and around, depending on your appetite and mood.

Cold Soba noodles with a pesto relish and a slow cooked egg.

The Babyface Kitchen is fully licensed and located at 1/179 Keira Street, Wollongong NSW  - the site formerly occupied by the iconic Pellegrini's.  
Opening hours are from 6pm to 10pm every Monday; from 6pm to 11pm every Wednesday and Thursday; from noon to 3pm from Friday to Sunday; from 6pm to midnight every Saturday; and from 6pm to 10pm every Sunday.  It is closed on Tuesdays.
Contact   +  61 2 4295 0903
BYO for Friday lunches only with corkage charged at $10 per bottle or per six pack of beer.


My impressions of the Babyface Kitchen in Wollongong NSW:
Ambiance: 3 out of 5

Customer Engagement: 4 out of 5
Culinary Delight: 4 out of 5
X Factor:  3.5 out of 5
Overall:    14.5 /4 out of 5



Recommended Menu choices:
Red Miso lamb ribs, sprinkled with toasted hazlenuts and a sauce lightly flavoured by ginger scallions. (Medium size)
Ho's Pork Gyoza, with soy, red vinegar and green tea salt.  (Medium size)
Fraser Island spanner crab rolls, served with lemon, avocado and Iceberg lettuce on a warm Brioche.  (Medium size)
Hokkaido scallops served with Umeboshi (pickled salt plums),  Pistachio and white soy on a sesame Nori cracker. (Nori Maki refer to rice crackers wrapped in seaweed).

 

Lazy Suzie - Darlinghurst NSW

The Master Mixologist at the bar, Marco Oscar Giron, pushes on relentlessly in creating, mixing and delivering.


We have seen Tapas at licensed bars, the Ramen at the Izakayas and liquors at Argentinian meat grillers.   So was it inevitable to have street food from Penang now offered with an extensive cocktail, mocktail and wine list? Personally I am glad this combination has arrived  - in retrospect, it does make all sense, to have spicy tinged and tasty creations with the camaraderie of a gathering hole.  Welcome to the Lazy Suzie.

Six sections of food are offered, including small serves, salads , Malay charcoal grill, sweets and strictly hawker.   Dishes are categorised in the menu according to GF, Diary free, vegan and vegetarian.  You can watch the kitchen crew focused in their on-goiing activities in a separate enclosure behind the bar.  There are several seating options, at the bar, with small tables by the wall or in communal long tables.

The culinary inspiration and basis may be from the iconic street food dishes of George Town, Penang Island, but Executive Chef Zacharay Tan has reinvented some, transformed others and allowed a few to be as original as it was before.   Call it his gift in bringing up the best in Aussie sourced ingredients to uplift Asian traditionals.  Or call it his penchant to surprise and to experiment in yet other selectives.  Zacharay and his crew have seriously soaked in some of the best hidden flavour infused culinary techniques, whilst allowing a free play with garnish and fusion combinations from a brave new world of cooking.  

A platter of Roti Baby, based on a traditional Hainan Island and  Straits Chinese snack from early 20th century Malaya and Singapore.  At the Lazy Suzie, they are still served with the old favourite of a Worcestershire sauce based condiment on a side plate.




Simple name changes set a tone - for example the Roti Babi has now been christened the Roti Baby with a slightly different recipe.  The shape of this snack now even look  like miniature round moon cakes.   

The dough outside is more akin to brioche but the spicy and marinated mince  pork inside still brings me back to childhood  days on a  tropical island of transplanted cultures and multicultural friends.  In those days of yore, the bread was immersed in a beaten egg mixture before being deep fried.  The fillings had coarsely chopped coriander, carrots, onions and cabbage, which were mixed and stirred in a heady combination of pepper, thick soy sauce and light soy sauce.


Ren, one of the more lively and engaging persons I have encountered in Australian dining places, presented the Roti Baby with a stylish smile and enthusiastic gait.  Her male counterpart, a young man with a short hair cut, had a different approach at the tables but did well too.
The people who make your experience at the Lazy Suzie are as vital as the nuances of the food and drink, I reckon.  They show knowledge of the dishes, articulate them well and are quick on their feet as to any request or questions.  

Michael Baronie, the Sommelier cum Restaurant Manager, can look unassuming in a quiet way but sets example and professional demeanour when interacting with the 54 of us present that evening.  Michael comes from Michelin starred establishments and projects that reassuring look when making his suggestions to diners.

Penang's iconic Char Koay Teow, dished up in an authentic and flavourful manner by Lazy Suzie.

 One specific dish remains totally sacrosanct - the Char Koay Teow. Yes, there are a thousand  variations of this, as it must be stir fried fresh just before consumption, it varies according to the mood of the cook and the texture of the narrow flat rice noodles is significant. Whilst the wok is heating up and the oil brewing, how  you toss in the prawns, bean sprouts and veg is an acquired art itself.  

I love the version form Lazy Suzie as it has the non-negotiable wok heat in the noodles, although the pork lard can be evident on my nose. More than this, it is the resulting whole works staring at the three of us when the plate came - appetising, laden with ingredients, the right touch of sauce cooked with and so inviting just by itself.

Pie Tee, which was a historical test for daughters-in-laws in the past, has delicate and miniature pastry cups filled with a savoury salad comprising picked Mud crab meat, Julienned carrots, shaved yam bean and braised Shitake mushrooms.  Best as cocktail food, Lazy Suzie's offering is more wholesome than just a bite, with us being able to appreciate each morsel of ingredient, satisfying and elegantly prepared.

What I love best, a heady mixture of crackling yet tender pork belly, eaten in combination with exquisitely steamed Taro slices and served with crispy fried seafood and other garnish.  Khao Yoke is the Cantonese name of this popular dish in Malaysia, Singapore and southern China.  The Taro is preferably of the powdery variety, be very conscious of the thickness of the Taro slices used and ensure at least three hours braising.

Soft boned pork in a prawn stock broth, served otherwise as Har Mee or prawn stock noodle soup, was a highlight of the evening.  The well braised meat melted in our mouths, and we just looked at each other in amazement.  The stock was not overwhelming, just hit the right note with both seafood and pork sensations and provided the nurturing warmth for the dumpling.  This dumpling had King Prawn, but instead of a solid bite on to firm prawn meat ( like at yum cha places), I was a tad disappointed  that it was a prawn mush instead.

Traditionally the Lam Mee is only prepared for important occasions like a significant birthday of a loved and respected elder.  Thinly shaved prawn slices, succulent pork cuts, shredded omelette ribbons and the compulsory Sambal condiment are not changed from the original recipe.  This dish can be challenging, as the chef needs to achieve subtlety in the stock soup, provide the right texture in the noodles and ingredients and yet ensure taste in the right strengths.

Together with the Char Koay Teow,  the taste and extraordinariness of the  the Lam Mee, and that of the stock soup in the Har Mee, remind me of Aunty Jenny's home cooking in St. Ives in upper north shore Sydney.

ABC Ice Kacang with the colour purple., still standing out under the mellow light of a dining evening.  The surreal effect on the taste of the shavings come from the natural dye of the blue pea flower, a prized ingredient in Straits Chinese and Malay culture.  The lavender effect on the ball gingerly sitting on top of your serve is from taro flavours. 

The ice shaver mechanical machine, imported from Penang, had a red colour band and stood out easily noticed,even if placed at the far end of the long counter.  The outcome of the ABC ice dessert can depend on the granularity of the resulting shaves, the experience of the person preparing them, the mixture of crunchiness and soothingness of the various accompanying ingredients plus the syrup flavours.

Instead of the usual red rose syrup you find in  George Town's streets, the Lazy Suzie offers a more delicate and  yet more satisfying flavour - that of the blue pea flower.  This flavour is also utilised in the Rama Rama Spritz cocktail made with Dandelion and Burdock bitters, giving an indigo hued presentation.

Several diners did opine that the cheese was over the top with the Lobster Thermidor spring rolls, with yellow coloured wraps and a side serve of cream.  Alan begged to differ and in the end I took it that could be a personal preference matter with the amount of cheesy taste.  Most of us could not find taste of the  lost Gruyere and lobster in this situation.

The Teh Tarik at the Lazy Suzie is not what you find at Hawker, Albee's or Mamak's, but what Marco does is add Johnnie Walker Black and Gunpowder green tea to Nashi pear, teapot bitters and rosemary. Kopi Tiam has cardamom coffee cream, a dash of Pierre Ferrand cognac and add-ons of espresso, cold drip coffee liqueur and beans.

The chef at work with the mango Lhassi.  The Lhassi flavours will change according to the availability of seasonal fruits.

My other recommendations from the Lazy Suzie are:

The Prosperity Bao, a snack of a slow cooked Wagyu brisket tucked inside a pillow dough and accompanied with a black pepper sauce;

Hainan style pork belly satay, served with a sauce based on sweet potatoes;

The Campo de Encanto, or the "Field of Enchantment", with Pisco Brandy from Peru and Chile, Goji berries, egg white, chocolate bitters and Kalamansi lime in carbonated water;

Green fish salad ( Jneh Hoo literally in Penang Hokkien) which is an uplifting salad combination  of cucumber and yam bean shavings, small school prawns and jelly fish in a sweet potato based spicy dressing.  This is indeed an echo of what Penang street food is about - it is light on the palate, crunchy on the bite and yummy on the taste.

Aunty Yulia's beef short ribs braised with a sweet soy sauce stand out as a starter. 

The Kerabu chicken salad has a Thai and Straits Chinese tinge with well sliced green mango, poached chicken bits, Thai native herbs for aroma, a drizzle of Kalamansi kumquats and a measure of crispy chicken strips for good measure.

Banana fritter with roasted coconut ice cream and salted caramel sauce

Tebu Jelup cocktail, very south-east Asian, using Bulleit Bourbon, sugar cane cuts and Angostura and orange bitters, garnished with Thai basil, Vietnam mint and finger lime squeeze. (Jelup in Malay means a sweetened drink with alcohol or medication and Tebu refers to sugar cane.)



Lazy Suzie is located at 78 Stanley Street, Darlinghurst, at the corner with Crown Street in the Sydney eastern suburb of Darlinghurst, a few blocks from Hyde Park and
Opening hours are from noon to midnight every week day (except closed on Mondays); Saturdays 10am to midnight; and on Sundays from 10am to 3pm.
Contact +61 2 7901 0396

Quay Canteen - Wollongong CBD

There is the Bakery Boys located further down Crown Street in Wollongong city centre.  But on the upper side along the mall, on top of another coffee place (the Square), lies a hidden gem, in the innards of the previous Central Chambers - climb up an unassuming stair case, navigate the narrow passages once you are on the first floor and head towards the corner balconies.  The menu is mostly Indo-Chinese, but you still have Aussie favourites like croissants, avocado smash and banana bread.
Another perspective is that it is vegan friendly, has gluten free options and its catch cry emphasise "raw treats".

Then we noticed the French baguettes, and before long it was Good Morning Vietnam!  Ingredients like fried shallots, coleslaw from the tropics, coriander, vermicelli salad and spicy sauces dotted the compact but diverse menu.  A fellow luncher recommended to me the v salad - laden with pepitas (roasted pumpkin seeds), mint leaves, cucumber slices, carrot and pickled daikon radish. We all felt like backpackers discovering this fusion of the best of Asia and Australia.   I can have my breakfast waffles but they do not come with honey or maple syrup  - instead they are served with Nam Mouc (or  dipping fish sauce) and five spice powder flavoured mushrooms!   There is crackling pork available to eat with cole slaw.  Imagine fresh tofu presented on a baguette.

Quay Canteen has turned the tables on burgers and sandwiches.  I can be messy with my disintegrating crumbs on the table from a bitten baguette, but the bite from a crunchy textured baguette is just so different from that with a multi grain bread or sourdough.   I can have bbq pork with all these explosive but tasty Asian salad garnishing.  We look out from the balcony but it is not Saigon or Hanoi.  The food served is light, not over done and can be snacks, takeaway or a full meal.  On display in the cake shelves are things like English banoffee and Italian rum choc balls.

Looking out at Crown Street Mall - central portion.

Maybe the coffee needs to be provided hotter.    There is both inside and balcony seating - plus niches for couples who want more privacy.   The cafe grew out of a clothes business and that original outlet - the Quay Supply Company - is still there, in an adjoining room.    Hey, perhaps shades of Lee & Me in lower Crown Street!   The staff wear black, the plates have black linings and even the coffee cups are black.   I have yet to try the classic Vietnam staples like the Bahn Mi, rice paper wrap rolls and steamed buns -  but aim to.

The Quay Canteen is located upstairs above the Square Cafe in the middle portion of Wollongong city centre's Crown Street Mall.
Address: Shop 5, 157 Crown Street, Wollongong NSW.
You climb up a stairs and then navigate through an area with small shop outlets, subconciously aiming for a corner of the building with two balconies over looking Crown Street Mall.
Orders are taken over the counter and help yourself to tap drinking water.

Opening Hours: Breakfast, brunch and lunch.

Tea Time in South-east Asia

This following entry marks seven years today for Kindly Yours.

The Huat Kueh, a steamed light delicacy served in  various colours to mark a celebration or festive occasion. Ubiquitous in Georgetown, Penang Island.

The colonial legacy has provided the pork and chicken pies, served on fine china. The pictured versions were bought from Bankstown in NSW.

Singapore orchids and Cambodian bananas grace the table at teatime with a south-east Asian theme.
Setting captured in Balgownie, NSW.

Cookies with a twist - clockwise, from left to right, with flavours as unusual like pandanus and curry leaf.  Available from the Cookie Museum of Singapore.

Straits Chinese layer cake, with variations in Indo-China, Indonesia and the Phillippines.  Based on coconut milk, a flair for presentation and at times garnished with red beans.  It is served as a delicacy in both fancy hotels in Singapore and by the roadside in Thailand.

Nothing like a ready edible harvest from Nature, the jackfruit, peeled out from beneath its hard dark green exterior.  The yellow fruit is luscious on the mouth, hides a seed which is further battered and deep fried in South-east Asian street markets and homes and is full of nutrition.

Hong Kong styled Tarn Tart, the egg custard filled pastries so prevalently available at yum cha sessions around the world and based on the Portuguese caramel infused tarts from Europe.

Pork based ham with a spicy touch, a staple of Vietnam, ideal for either noodles or breads, or just simply eaten as a quick snack.

The Kebaya Restaurant at the Seven Terraces - Georgetown, Penang

The Nyonyas and Babas were affectionately accepted by Queen Victoria as the 'King's Chinese".  The Kebaya reflects on such sentiments by offering the fish mousse (the otak-otak) to be eaten with miniature chicken pies.

Christopher  Ong and partner Karl Steinberg have done an excellent job in restoring several formerly decrepit Victorian styled terrace houses into a  swanky and yet historically beautiful abode for visitors in the Seven Terraces.  Their most noted restoration before Georgetown's Old Quarter was the Galle Fort Hotel in Sri Lanka.

Tads too sweet that evening when we were there - the Tub Tim Krob, a Thai dessert to illustrate pomegranate fruit floating in a sea of milky white.

Cream Brulee with a twist  - with lemon grass, spice and everything nice -  a Thai layer over the French idea. The two main chefs at the Kebaya are Penang born but French trained.

The Kebaya's dining room is straddled along the fronts of the restored Seven Terraces, located behind the iconic Goddess of Mercy Temple in old Georgetown.  Kebaya refers to the esteemed traditional and elegant dress worn by Nyonyas for special occasions - the cut is such that women need a lithe and slim figure to bring out the best in the look of a kebaya.  There is  teak panelled art deco bar on one side of the restaurant.

Dishes, on first glance,  that would have been an everyday menu for the Straits Chinese family in the 19th and 20th centuries in the British Straits Settlements of Malaya and Singapore.  However, sitting down at the table and sampling the food, I realised that this was a new genre of cuisine, although based on historical conventions but all given a fresh attitude and approach.  This may set the menu at the Kebaya apart from its fellow practitioners in commercial Straits Chinese cuisine.

A snack of pai tee - vital are fresh ingredients, textured cuts to enhance the bite and a crunchy though petite holder.  The name for this unusual creation comes from a southern Chinese dialect pronunciation of the English word "party".

A place to read, a corner to hide away and a seat to soak in a Penang island moment.  The adjoining hotel has only 14 guest rooms with reproduction wedding beds and furnished liberally with antique porcelain.

The buffet holding side dishes, water jugs and drinking glasses.

A stringent and tasty stir fry, perfect for vegetarians, with broad beans  and corn slices in a mish-mesh with cashew nuts and capsicum - an idea for a working day's dinner at home as well.

Fujian sweet dumplings (mua chee) or Japanese mochis adapted to a tropical clime - served in sweet coconut milk although still sprinkled by sesame seeds.

A classic Vietnamese favourite - sugarcane sticks skewering deep fried prawns, combining the best of land and sea.

Fish fillet in a wet curry sauce, echoing Thai styles and flavours.

A porcelain egg tray cleverly holds sauces and condiments, essential to the taste buds when delving in the various forms of south east and east Asian food.

I am so glad that Kar Wai, Sue Chee, Henry Quah and Fai Keong took me to the Seven Terraces and dinner at its Kebaya Restaurant - it was an eye opener and excellent illustration of how UNESCO heritage status can help renew and reconnect Penang's rich historical background to a viable present and hopeful future, giving each island resident a vital appreciation, glimpse and reality of Georgetown's multi-cultural past.  Committed funding, a spunky determination and an innovative vision lay behind the developers of such recent architectural and socio-cultural dimensions.  Our group was also introduced to Chris Ong, whom I found affable and with a friendly countenance - and at that moment I realised that history of growth is often made relentlessly not only by politicians, but relentlessly by individuals in the background, quietly making their mark as leaders.

Location:Stewart Lane
Georgetown, Penang Island