Chobe National Park - Four Wheel Safari

This teenage female came straight up to breath's distance from me.  I was seated on the upper duck of the vehicle, held my own calmness and quiet.  I trusted Mr. Rann our guide and driver ion his choice of stopping beside a small herd.  Missy looked close up at me and I noted her gem like brown eyes.  She did not look threatening, mauve more curious than ever. I survived my own fears and Missy's greeting - and this turned out to be a most magical moment that all the Disney movies in my childhood and David Attenborough documentaries had long prepared me for.

Head butting, playing and training.  These agile and lovely Impalas have a feisty personality, are quick to respond to danger and have a high level of sense of community.  The are herbivorous but are a fond target of the lions and leopards.

The hippopotamus rarely comes out  from soaking in the water.  Always his faithful symbiotic feathered friends are nearby, often picking out from the surface of the hippo's hide.  The four legged creature is also approached with caution by the local human inhabitants.

Baboons gather in congresses for mutual protection, group power and to enjoy a sense of family.  They have long tails, are cheeky and venture near human habitats in the search for food.

Elephants value watering holes and are said to have an innate sense of recognition and memory.  They feed on grass, for which they have to learn from parents as to choice of good sources and train in.  Elephant ear flaps are beautiful and fascinating and their hide can be in various shades of brown, grey or black.

These two zebras were doing sentry duty whilst their herd members fed on the grassy plains. I noticed there are brown streaks beside the obvious back and white stripes.   They are noble in stature, have energy of horses when running and sprout a captivating head gear.

It was the dry season and so the terrain does not look encouraging for this gathering of baboons.

This lioness walks a few paces behind her brood in the late afternoon, in what may be an educational exercise for her cubs on the way back from some day time activities.

Water buffaloes stomp away and create much dust in their wake.  They have powerful strengthened are feared by humans.  They appear as one of the one for he Big Five on the currency notes for the South African Rand - the others being the leopard, the lion, the giraffe and the zebra.

Graceful, tall and colourful, the giraffe competes in my heart with the zebra as my favourite wild  fauna.
Unique to the African continent, they are leaf grazers and have a strategic view of the world of mainly grasslands.
How do they stoop down and drink water?  Their eyes look feminine, the two short horns interesting and how they run on such long legs is a wonder for me to have witnessed.  Scientists have also recently discovered that giraffes human t low frequency audio to each other at night.

We were fortunate to come across this wild dog pack resting under some shady trees in the midday sun.   I noticed they have pronounced ears and sharp jaw shapes.  One of their brood was disabled that day and we all were touched by the positive vibes and care given by all in the group to this critter. They are lean bodied, have a strong sense of smell and have alert signals amongst themselves when faced with possible danger.

This is perhaps the most consumed wild game - the hog.  

The helmeted Guinea Fowl can be likened to turkeys but the are smaller in size.  Although they have colourful heads, their bodies are very plain and dark.  They can scoot about quickly, are not fussy on feeding and are sensitive to other animals near them.

Zambezi River - Twilight

In the local Tonga language, the river simply means  "great".  And so it is, meandering through most of the southern part of Africa  but never meeting the Atlantic Ocean.  I was fortunate to see a part of this natural icon in the north-western corner of Zimbabwe, on board a safari that took in sightings mainly of elephant herds, but also included reptiles, bird life and giraffes.   I highly recommend boat cruises that can come near river banks, stop at whim and provide a calming pace of timelessness.  The Zambezi is the longest east flowing river in Africa and goes through various stages of character in its rather lengthy course.  It hosts several tributaries of its own and has had various bridges of different sizes built across.

Our leisure boats await us.

Two sizeable dams already exist along the Zambezi, the Kariba in Zimbabwe and the Cahora Bassa in Mozambique.  The upper stretches of this magnificent water course flow south-west first to Zambia and then into the neighbouring state of Angola.  From here the Zambezi courses its way to Naimbia, back to Zambia, then to Zimbabwe and Mozambique before it meets the Indian Ocean.  The Zambezi is measured as 2594 kilometres.

The source arises at around 1500 metres high, where three countries converge with their borders - the Congo, Zambia and Angola - in the region known as the Mwinilunga.  Existing dams provide much needed hydro-electric power to three nations - South Africa, Zimbabwe and Zambia.

Wild animals were returning home after a day at watering holes, gathering in groups and feeding on grass.   It can be a delicate and ambient moment watching such animals roam freely on the banks of the Zambezi as the sun sets in a tropical setting.  Our cruise experience included a party like atmosphere on board with free flowing drinks, quality tea time snacks and good company.  The wild life must be each wondering who we are - do they see us as whole boat vessels or can they discern individual human beings inside the floating vessels?   The part of the Zambezi we were at was calm and had a flat topography.

With such a long course and mostly benign waters, there is continuing talk and planning about utilising the Zambezi further for human benefits, whether in constructing another dam near the Victoria Falls or in developing a mature seaway to transport goods and more.  The catchment basin of the Zambezi is half that of the Nile in northern Africa and this great river is the fourth longest on the African continent, after the Nile, Congo and Niger Rivers.

 The Zambezi passes by grasslands, forests, reserves of wild animals and near hubs of human villages.    It is spectacular at the Victoria Falls and this is where most outsiders get to appreciate the river.  Many outdoor activities like whitewater rafting, bungee jumping, kayaking, canoeing and helicopter rides are available.

The Zambezi does meet with the Chobe River in Botswana  - both rivers are pristine here.  Cultural beliefs speak of the Nyami Nyami, a significant spirit respected by locals and which help them in making the Zambezi a true giver of life, by supplying viable water supplies for farming and nurturing fish.

The Zambezi has its very own delta when through the Shire River, its water volume is boosted from Lake Malawi.  Uniquely, many sections of this river are uninhabited, probably due to the seasonal flooding that occurs.  Bull sharks come into its mouth from the Indian Ocean in Mozambique.

Kids may have come across the animated movie "Zambezia".  Any one who has stepped on to its shores and soaked in its environment would not forget the Zambezi, to me, it is like Mother Nature having me in embrace, quietly, and into the night.

The Africa Cafe, Cape Town

Well dressed traditional dancers come to entertain diners with singing, dancing and beating of cultural drums.

Cheese, chick peas, sauces, cassavas, beans, breads and more.   The promise of a menu that stretches from Morocco to Malawi and the Transvaal.   Maybe too idealistic, perhaps a brilliant idea.   It is not just a food experience. The Africa Cafe wants you to also soak in the culture in a  fun and relaxing way.  And so they did pull it off.  On a Wednesday evening mid week, my group was provided a sumptuous banquet, had our ears open to rhythm, given an chance to dwell in the strong colours of costumes - and each of us realised that the continent is truly large in geographical spread.

Perhaps an unassuming outside but a much well though of and designed interior.

The variety of dishes can only be sampled if one tries to try all.

My way of looking at how to cover so much variety in the cuisine offered is to take nibbles, samplings and bites.   There are salads, deep fried stuff, rolls, condiments, meats  - the risk is a fish mesh in the mouth, so it is good to at least recognise from where each item originates.  

Basmati rice,  Dahl curry, Cape Malay offerings and broccoli salads are obviously foreign influences, from across the Indian Ocean.  Hey but wait,  there are filleted chicken breast marinated in a macadamia sauce; the Vet Koek (lightly fried bread balls); Channa fish; Karoo-style lamb stew; spinach cooked with peppers and tomato, from the Congo; and a chili dip from Mozambique.  Servings are on the generous side.

The ceiling above your dining table.

The menu tucked in a bottle.

We were seated upstairs, inside what seems to be an Euro styled mansion from the past, with walls brightly coloured to echo the colours outdoors.   May be it is fusion, with white cloths over dining tables, so-called exotic food, with a harmony co-existing amongst the grains, veg and meats.  

Did I sense a bit of a tourist trap?  Heck no, I felt like coming home to an extended family dinner.  The staff members are mainly young and I missed checking out the kitchen.  Located in downtown Cape Town, the Africa Cafe is easily accessible but I did not feel like I was in the proverbial middle of the forest.   I recommend this place as a viable entry point to African cuisine for someone who has not been to the continent but it does lack some iconic dish offerings from the north.

Our personal host explains before we begin our dinner course.

Starters, snacks and appetisers.

The wine list emphasises Blancs - Sauvignons and Chenins - plus Rieslings, Pinots and Chardonnays.  Reds include Merlots, Cabarnets, Bordeaux and Shiraz.   Concurrently there is a good choice of African liqueurs, freshly made fruit cocktails and world wide whiskeys, so there is much choice indeed.

Value of the food menu can be in the eye of the beholder so I leave it to individuals 
to judge whether prices are on the higher side or not.   Guests are provided with rose scented water to wash their hands on arrival.  Entertainment includes drumming but i noticed guests are freely allowed to walk about the premises as well and not just get stuck on their allotted chairs!  You can have a bit of face painting for a diversion in the middle of dinner.

Mid way we have some meat creations.

Salads and sauces.

The Africa Cafe is in Cape Town CBD at 108 Shortmarket Street, City Bowl, Cape Town, South Africa.Opening hours  - Evenings from 6pm to 11pm.Telephone + 27 21 422 0221

Victoria Falls - By Helicopter

The Victoria Falls with mid-volume flow on a September afternoon.

Our skillful and young pilot.

Mist spray and thundering sounds are still evident from above.

Take off with anticipation and expectation.

The bridge that straddles high above the Zambezi also marks the border between the two nations of Zambia and Zimbabwe.  The town of Livingstone is Zambian, whilst Vic falls is on the Zimbabwe side.

Rising above like a bird, with views of the Zambezi River and the beginnings of an ox bow lake, in the way the great river takes a bend.   The sun is at its height for the day.

Behind every great person is a wife or husband or partner or mentor.  Behind the success of each child is the unseen unrelenting effort of each parent.  The Victoria Falls can be seen as the outcome of a great flow of water, natural topography and good rain fall.

Just before taking off.

Grasslands on rock exemplify the landscape at the end of the dry season around the Victoria Falls.

The glory of it all
Such grace and power
Oh what a wonder
Mosi Oa Tunya
You are the Smoke that Thunders!

The River Zambezi is one of the largest water sources in the African continent, on which depends  much wildlife and human settlements.

The helicopter returns home, side views when landing.