The French House Waterloo NSW

The gilt edge mirrors, chandeliers from another age and the very Euro feel of its Baroque interiors were what captivated us to come in.  It reminds me of plush curtained windows in drawing rooms while the heavy snow piled outside.....hey but the weather was more tropical with the sunny intensity of what can only be in Australia, even if I am told it is already autumn here.

The displays are magnificent, with quiches, pastries,  cakes, tarts, sandwiches, wraps, bread loaves  - delicate and bold creations sitting beside each other and looking pretty.

 I love the ambiance here, though it can be a bit shaded and dark for some others.  I am captivated by the thoughts of sitting on those unmatched cushioned chairs listening and talking to close friends, or just chilling out on what life has to offer, or merely to sit and relax with people we are comfortable enough to not put up with pretensions one may see in other parts of the Big Smoke.

I thoroughly enjoyed my two layered vanilla and custard Mille-Feuille, to me  the Creme Patisserrie was light yet full of taste and texture.   Never mind the sprinkling of icing sugar at the top.  I love this creation perhaps partly because it is not just a chunk of cake but offers different and delicate sensations when I bite in to it, yum.

The coffee is Campos but on this occasion I had the mocha, perhaps in  a vain attempt to transverse both worlds on a day when I already had my high intake of caffienated stuff.   My companions did not speak much about their Chai lattes or hot chocolate - I would have to pursue them further on their impressions.   I had been warned before hand of varying customer service levels here, but we found it was good for us though.  Maybe it depends on who was around working when one drops by -  but I am not sure.

I will not have done justice, to say more at this juncture, about the French House on this quick drop by, but I look forward to at least having the croissants and baguettes on a next more leisurely encounter there.  Again my scouts have asked me to look out for the absence of dryness, freshness of the dough or pastry and the clever use of dressings or garnish in my future judgements - all very handy.

I am not a fan of tarts, but some customers  have gone for their strawberry or Ricota chocolate tartlets, when I did look around then sitting in what I reckoned was a leisurely experience.

On balance, the French House can be considered for a brunch or breakfast session in a more sophisticated surrounding, instead of the usual new fangled post industrial or rustic farmhouse look that seems to permeate the designs and lay out many of the new wave of cafes and restaurants in the greater Sydney area.  Each person must manage his or her expectations versus reality in the foodie world, but also take into account factors beyond the details of food and drink, to evaluate a holistic experience.  The French House does live up to its image as something French in the end - despite Campos being there....



The French House is located at 1G Danks Street Waterloo NSW, at the corner with Philip Street.
Opening hours are from 730am to 4pm from Mondays to Thursdays and from 730am to 5pm from Fridays to Sundays.

Contact +61 2 8399 2770





 

Guillaume, Paddington NSW - Revisited

A room with a view and verandah.

Guillaume's Restaurant had renovations in August 2014.  I would like to share my impressions on my most recent visit in December last year.

The Royale of Asparagus entree has always been a winner with me - served with truffle gems and mud crab meat, I reckon my focus moved away from the asparagus to its enhancing companions on the plate.

The Moreton Bay bug warm entree is always a winner with me, served with delicate but flavourful pork cheek, sea spray, cauliflower and radish - providing a yummy harmony between land and sea produce.  For those being inducted into gourmet Australian cuisine, this is a symbolic experience for a sea produce that is unique to the eastern seaboard of this continental island.

For beef lovers, it is irresistible to have the Shioro-Kin full blood Waygu from the Macquarie Downs region in Queensland.  This is accompanied by pickled radish and Jerusalem artichoke, before being drizzled with jus gras right behind serving.   The other beef offering comes from the Rangers Valley in New South Wales - the Waygu Tartare, with a cast of Sterling caviar, oyster and mushroom.  ( A side note is that the term Wagyu literally means "Japanese cow", a reference to the origins  of this cattle breed.)

Scampi from Wellington New Zealand is uplifted with shisho, ocean trout roe and peach slices, together with cucumber bits, croutons and chili bits.  Shisho is part of the mint and basil family of herbs - it is often used as a garnish by itself, just like here, but can also be a popular ingredient in Japanese cuisine, in preparing tempuras, shashimi and salads.   It is both an edible herb and an ornamental plant and also called the Perilla and Ooba.  It is aromatic, provides a citrus flavour and also herbaceous to the nose.

Pineapple dessert is reliably refreshing when it is provided with cashew nuts, ginger, coconut and caramel sauce to offset texture and send contrasting flavours on to our palates.  The primary tone is definitely tropical and is a salute to the South Pacific.   This theme is also echoed by the passionfruit dessert, which comes with Creme Anglaise, in a mixture of both passion fruit and banana sorbet and souffle.

What I aim  for on the next visit is the suckling pig carved slices, presented with endives, pumpkin and caramelised apple.  A twist on the traditional roast and veg!

The attending butler for our table exudes experience, professionalism and engagement. Hailing from Italy, he has worked in the USA and now enjoys his sojourn in a country at the forefront of experimental and fusion culinary styles with available quality ingredients.

At Guillaume's, you expect the best in human interaction at the table - and you do get one of the best in Sydney's competitive field.  It is refreshing to hear various accents from Europe as the smiling and hard working staff articulate the menu with intimate knowledge and readily answer your questions.  The private dining room we were in at Guillaume has views of Sydney Harbour from afar but also closer views over the inner city streets.

Another young man fascinated my table guests with his French accented English - we really loved it - but he was so mindful of being in an English speaking nation.  Hey, we just wanted this person to be himself when pronouncing his way through the dishes placed on the table  it can be a lovely change to our ears.

A complimentary delight in between the menu offerings.

Each creative dish is linked to a place of origin for its main ingredients used.  From the northern parts of Australia, comes mango from Darwin and passionfruit in Gympie.  To the south, Patagonian tooth fish is harvested near Glacier 51 on Heard Island in the Antarctic.  Partridge served was raised in Woodville in New South Wales, flavoured with cumin, eggplant and carrot on the plate.  Lamb is from Flinders Island off Tasmania.   What a culinary adventure!

Although the sourcing emphasis is emphasised locally, Europe does beckon as Chef extraordinare Guillaume Brahimi himself is French - and the elegant touches around the restaurant, not just in the food, do bring guests to an ambiance of a continent so far away.  He was away in Melbourne that evening so we missed his usual friendly gesture of coming out to speak to diners as the night hours continue.

Lamb served with asparagus, peas and turnip.

A severe thunderstorm raged outside even if we were in the middle of our culinary proceedings, like us being in the middle of a light and sound show from Nature herself -  the heavens poured down with a fury not normally or often witnessed in the Sydney Basin, with regular lightning strikes outside the windows near and far.   This added to the quality of the night out, in terms of displays of the randomness and volatility of Nature, in stark contrast to the skillful and careful interplay of technique and use of ingredients by the culinary team at Guiliame's.

Inside the restaurant was refinement and order, whilst thousands of fans who attended the Ed Sheehan concert at nearby Moore Park were at the same time being drenched in an intense manner.

Brioche from Guillaume.

Guillaume is located at 92 Hargrave Street, beside a small roundabout with Elizabeth Street in Paddington, an inner city suburb of Sydney.
Telephone 612 9302 5222
Opening Hours at the time of this blog post are from 545pm for dinner from Tuesday to Saturday.
Guillaume is open for lunch from noon every Friday and Saturday and on the first Sunday of each month.

L'assiette Cafe & Bistro, Auckland CBD

I am amazed that the pastries are flown in frozen from the French Republic to this delightful gathering place ( a bistro, cafe and bakery all in one) located in Brittomart beside Auckland Harbour.  Ah, the wonders and marvels of air travel - and regular flight connections.  "Bonjour" - my niece and I were greeted when we sat down for a quick pick me up at the L'assiette before 8am.  The dining room is not big but reminds me of an Euro rustic setting with a modern Pacific twist.  Perhaps it is the design of the chairs.  This is not Tahiti nor Paris but the closest Kiwiland gets to such settings.

Once I bit into the crust of my pastry, I felt the crunchiness, light buttery and aroma on my palate. There is an extra feeling of specialness. Coupled with the nippy air outside, it is a moment to relish.  It is not just the ingredients, it must be the baking and the ambiance too.  French speaking staff walk around.  Our coffee orders come so fast, good for the morning rush hour and they set a high level of blended bean quality. And then there is a Hersheys kiss anointing each cup.  All very good when it is cold but fresh outside on an early Auckland winter's morning!

Highly talked about are the Gallettes Bretton available at this lovely hideaway and yet accessible to business world professionals, families, couples and tourists alike.   I understand these are its signature offerings  - the round shaped buckwheat savoury crepes are served here with options like sausage, bacon, salmon Gravlax, mushroom or ham.  And of course they are garnished with egg, Gruyere, Creme Fraiche, mustard or Tartiflette.  Tartiflette, interesting enough, originated from ski stations in France and is a gratin made with lardons, Reblochon cheese, onions and of course, potatoes.

I saw the delicate  and colourful macaroons waiting in their display - oh yes, it is too early for such more sugary delights. Always something for high tea rather than breakfast.  There is a rush of customers enjoying the offerings of the place when we sat down, but later in mid-morning, when I happened to walk past the place, they did have a quiet moment, after office business has settled in for the day in the nearby buildings.

Adelyn and I had chose the apple crumble and croissant pastries, one with gratifying chocolate filling.  They are not over the top rich and provided more taste than sweet.  Our coffee orders came a bientot - despite the crowd.  L'assiette  - plate, the course of a meal, roughly translated.  In this L'assiette in Auckland, the experience means more - a warm serving, a place like home, the course of an enjoyable experience.  I understand that breakfast is more Kiwi and lunch or dinner is more classic French.

Baguettes accompany two loved iconic dishes at lunch or dinner time - the Pot-au-Feu and the Beef Bourguignon, both beef based creations.   If you are having dinner there, check out the Asian pork belly served with potato puree.

My current breakfast weakness, Eggs Benedict, is made here with either Akaroa Salmon or bacon or for the vegetarians, mushrooms.  The lovely outpost of Akaroa, just outside Christchurch, is a time capsule with roads referred to as Rue and the hint of maritime adventure round the next corner as you walk its rustic seaside lanes.  True to its French inspiration, there is no problem in having the Croque Madame or the Croque Monsieur!  This Croque - grilled ham and cheese sandwiches - come with an option for Béchamel sauce and are labelled Madame once you add a poached egg or omelette on top.

What I hope to try though the next time there is the Le Grand breakfast, with Provencal tomato, sausage, bacon, Pommes Dauphines, mushroom, eggs and sourdough.

L'assiette Cafe & Bistro is located at the Atrium on Takutal at No. 9 Britomart Place, Auckland Harbour with the nearest cross road being Scene Lane.
Telephone: 659 3090961
Opening hours: 7am till late every day.

Matterhorn - Te Aro Wellington

Venison Denver Leg with captivating sides.

A coolish mid June evening surfaced after the early winter sunset brought down temperatures.  The open fire places in the restaurant were being stoked and the engaging male staff in the courtyard allowed me to sit inside.  Both the food and drink menu is impressive.  The latter concentrated on New Zealand wines (especially from Hawkes Bay, Central Otago and Marlborough)  but also had several selections from Spain, Portugal, Italy and France. Crayfish, tuna  and salmon are featured for seafood but I reckoned the uplifting feature of the menu is the clever and thoughtful combination of ingredients.

I thoroughly enjoyed the duck variations with brioche entree.  Creative, imaginative and tasty on the palate, degustation of the several duck variations inspired my expectations and uplifted my comfort. Perhaps a mark of the return of head chef Sean Marshall from late last year.  Settling down in an Indian Runner cocktail, I did find the place rather too dark for its own good and the tiny flickering table lights did  not much help in reading the menu.

The Matterhorn in Wellington CBD is located hidden inside a passageway - after the sign outside on Cuba Street mall side, there is no other indication of where the restaurant is.  The staff were diligent in ensuring my drinks did not run out, whether non-alcoholic or not.  Seated near the bar, I could catch the banter of guests who treated it more like a pub.

Duck in the dark with brioche.

Being such an established institution in The Land of the Long White Cloud,  the Matterhorn carries a heavy burden in reputation and delivery.

I enjoyed the Franco-German theme and feel of the set up, provided with a finesse in the way the kitchen prepared meats, grilled and cured.  I selected the Venison Denver leg for my mains as it is local Kiwi produce  and I was looking forward to how the Matterhorn served it.  When the dish came, I was immediately distracted by the side servings, especially the eggplant caviar plus the Miso mix with sweet potato - this was an elegant representation of the best from the land.  Black sesame with other grains echoed absolute globalisation.  Oh yes, getting back to the venison, this had a deep flavourful texture.  It held its firmness and yet it was subtle on the bite.

Perhaps it was too early a start.

It had not been easy to zoom down to my final choice of starters.   The coddled egg had gravy over accompaniments of oyster mushrooms, polenta, garden peas and chicken wing bacon, all on one plate.  Another entree, wild rabbit, was enhanced with Spanish sherry, flavoured with cardamom and served with Shitake mushrooms, wild greens, barley and Heritage carrots.

For  lighter mains, Matterhorn offers the house Agria Gnocchi, made with seasonal harvest , pecorino and nettle pesto.  For heavy eaters, the Plate of Pig jumped out to my attention, served with pickled pumpkin,  Savoy cabbage and cider sauce.  Very German, very Oomp Pah Pah!

For those not having a course meal, the Matterhorn offers an interesting option to go with just drinks - the Grazing Food section.  An example of informal flexibility, you can have small serve items like mussels  bathed in malt vinegar, a Charcuterie board, Momma's fried chicken, Tuna sashimi, polenta fried zucchini dipped with spiced Tahini yogurt and simple Dukkah bar nuts.   Just great for after office chill outs and group drink sessions.

There are two outlets for the Matterhorn in New Zealand:

1.  Wellington - 106 Cuba Street, Te Aro

Open Monday to Saturday from 3pm till late;  Sundays from 1pm till late.
Nearest cross road  - Ghuznee or Dixon Streets
Telephone:  04 3843359

Bookings recommended on weekends.
Atmosphere - relaxed and diverse, with business, family and social groups
Sit down section inside and outside  with a joint bar section.

2.  Auckland - 37 Drake Street, Freemans Bay at the Victoria Street Markets  (not visited at this stage).

Open Monday to Saturday from 3pm till late;  Sundays from 1pm till late.
Telephone: 09 9292790

My impressions of the Matterhorn in Wellington:

Ambiance:  It can be a pub, it can be a fine dining experience.  Relaxed and diverse, one can be sitting near boisterous guests or have a private corner.

Taste:  More than satisfying.  Accompaniments bring the diner to higher sensations on the palate.

Location:  Not exactly ideal and such food created deserves a better waterfront setting.

X factor:  The chef's clever combination of ingredients to create exciting and well blended dishes.

Attentive mindset by most staff.

Would I return?  Yes, for the inspiring menu.  Also to soak in with the English Patient Martin Miller's, Saffron Gin, lemon, sugar and hopes made ginger liqueur.  There are only four Australian wines that evening if I saw it right - the Knappstein Shiraz from the Claire Valley South Australian; Shaw & Smith chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills;  Adam's Rib chardonnay from Beechworth and the NV Chambers Muscadelle from Victoria.  One USA choice  - the Zinfandel from California.

Hardware Societe - Melbourne CBD

On any day, one must manage expectations in trying to find a seat - outside the Hardware Societe.



This has been the darling and the positive delight of foodies, and still is.  Particularly appreciated by the Asian demographic, but really sited in a fantastic locale in the heart of Melbourne CBD, with students, trendies, metrosexuals, shoppers, tourists and hipsters swirling all around.  Located at the northern end of Hardware Lane (an iconic one at that), closer to Little Lonsdale rather than Lonsdale Street, it has been renovated with a more modern feel but with packed seating and very busy staff.  Considering the menu range, the number of eager customers and the constant demand, this is a challenging business model of providing continuing logistics, competitive innovation and required engagement.  The first thing I noticed is that some apparent repeat guests know how to approach the place like a hawk on arrival, zooming down on the next available table and already seemingly waiting to pounce from the line.  Like queueing for yum cha or Mamak's roti, you may have to watch people eat and drink, but you are ready to order when you get a seat.   The food is served on wooden boards and one feels obliged not to waste time at your table, as you can see other eager beavers waiting outside.

A surprisingly delightful wall of elegant butterflies hides around the inside.

So is it worth the effort to make it in at last into the Societe?  The coffee is satisfying, as it should be.
Seasonal produce is emphasised here and so gives a bit of kick to the menu.  There is an Euro layer over the modern Aussie breakfast.   It provides for gluten free requirements, but do read the details below some interesting named items. It is open everyday from 730am-ish till early arvo.  There are Spanish, French, savoury and sweet themes in your choices.  There are both indoor and outdoor seating.   Service is mostly focused, with staff speaking professionally, although at times the food can take more than the usual wait time (hey, the kitchen area is not large).  I did notice that my deep fried roast chicken was a bit off that morning, but otherwise the staff were good despite the market crowd conditions.  I adored the taste of my hard boiled eggs and the avocado spread on my bread. The Societe can be akin to a warm gathering of school alumni members, each connected with their appreciation and love of food with Mediterranean influences and quality Australian ingredients.  Whether they are cold meats, vegetarian, marinated pickles, meringue, good old bacon or fancy garnishing, the Societe blends them into creative offerings.

More lunch than brunch - the big breakky board.

After an often wholesome meal at the Societe, practically you are liberated to delve into other business of the day.  You still recall the chorizo, infused teas or the gherkins. Why is there a cockerel at the front of the place, has to do with the French.  I love the hanging lamps, reeking of post-industrial, modern hype and thoughtful design - maybe some are hanging too low over the guests.
The Society obviously values turnover.  You go there in the midst of a busy schedule.  Even when friends catch up I notice a sense of urgency, you are not there to delve over your refined chocolate for hours.   This is a rare place that is not totally ethnic cuisine, yet not the usual big breakfast from home.  Therein lies the charm of the Hardware Societe, despite its occasional blips, people still have good perceptions and actual experiences of having something unique.  A Melbourne city lane life. The kind of people who gather there. All theses, in addition to the menu.

Counter position can be best if you want a more quiet ambiance, as tables can be packed together and you can watch the kitchen staff at work.

Guilliame - Sydney

Three types of chocolate - the Varlhona dessert offers hazelnut, date and banyuls.

Cold entree - squid, Diamond Clam, sea urchin, oyster and mussel, inspired by Spencer Gulf South Australia.

A French classic in the exterior as well.

Surf and turf - lobster and duck in a warm entree.

My mains - Squab, with endive, onion, cabbage and foie gras.

Compliments of the house, between courses.

Serving the soufflé, with style, engagement and concentration!

Mud Crab meat finely presented on top of truffle base.

What Kim had - my fellow diner in a group of eight.

Fineness, flavour and presentation personified .

And what a lovely evening!

Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel - Ha Noi, Vietnam

The continuing hype is that Charlie Chaplin and Brad Pitt brought their beloved wives here, but it is true. The reality is an elegant and inspiring step back into the colonial past - in architecture, ambiance and arresting captivation. The experience is one of refined service, spacious environs and a touch of class.  There is an airiness in here that sets it definitely apart from the other parts of Ha Noi.  French can be heard spoken  in several conversations, as you sit on the lobby's Euro furniture, soaking in both the historical and present day ambiance or just waiting for your friends who are residing in the Metropole Hotel.
Above, noodles served in fine bone china complementing the the green house surroundings of the tea room at the Spices Garden, garnished by  a variety of local musts - basil leaves, chili cuts,  capsicum, onion slices and chicken.  Mrs Nguyen Thanh Van is currently the head chef presiding over three kitchens - and also serving the Angelina Restaurant & lounge, together with the Le Beaulieu Restaurant.

The underlying and over flowing theme is in white (pictures above and below), whether you view the rooms, with balconies and facade green window louvres, from outside, or when you look up from a dining or drinking table.  The Metropole has existed since 1901 and witnessed the various significant events and transitions in Vietnamese history of the 20th century.  Located in the Hoan Kiem District of the city centre, it is only a walk away from the Opera House and the Government Guest House (formerly the official residence of the colonial French Governor).

Well placed ceiling fans, exquisite touches of local pottery, cantilevered wooden windows, silk fabric cushions, dark wood paneling and French styled furniture (photo above) all help to build up a snug and comfortable feel even in the lobby itself.  Wrought iron is embellished to create a contrast with the comfortable soft hues and provide assurances  of stability and strength.  Ecological designed materials are used in the guest rooms, villas or suites, which stand out graced with lush curtains, pillow accessories and chateau-like colours.

There are lush green lawns maintained in the inner courtyards of the hotel. With 22 suites and 364 rooms, three separate bars, an outdoor heated pool and a rooftop garden, it does offer many choices.
Romance and business seem to be the two key selling points of the Metropole, in that they offer to guests the high standards required by both.  The buildings have not always been  in such a glorious state, having been left run down between 1954 and 1986, but now the Grand Old Dame is back in all its glory.

The La Terrasse Du Metropole (photo below) suits cool evenings and Parisian-inspired preferences for easy and informal meet ups. My own experience of eating at the Spice Gardens is one of quick and friendly service, all wrapped in a professionally trained manner and one that offers a realm of comfort and relaxation.

Vladimir Putin, actors like Noel Coward and Michael Caine and a host of writers, including Graham Greene and W. Somerset Maugham have graced this unique institution.  There can be comparisons with the Oriental in Bangkok, the Raffles in Singapore and the Eastern & Oriental in Penang, but the Metropole in Ha Noi to me is a class apart.

Balgownie Hot Bake Bakery, NSW

Just a five minute walk from my home lies a hitherto undiscovered and under appreciated delight.  Marianne and Greg recommended me to try the apple pie at this bakery, Hot Bake.  At my next opportunity, I woke up one lazy Saturday morning and headed up to Balgownie Village with expectations.  Hot Bake has a simple and unassuming retail front, typical of such retail outlets in any corner of Australia and New Zealand, where you can see baked stuff on warehouse-styled shelves, the ubiquitous refrigerated drinks machine and the all important lit up glass display of freshly baked items at the counter.  A middle aged lady of Vietnamese origin was attending to customers whilst her efficient side kick was busy, service-prompt and hard working behind the scenes.

Obviously my eyes and heart were aiming for the apple pies lying as pretty as spring blooms outside. I also spotted a rather attractive set of coconut flavoured snacks popular in Asia and croissants that would be at home in any Parisian cafe.

The apple pie was exquisite, more like apple crumble inside, with a rather crusty bite first before I felt the melting moments next with small apple squares, with an overall effect that was not too sweet nor too creamy. There was no trace of fluffy butter, chunky caster sugar or over whelming egg.  Granny Smith apples are relevant here. I understand that cinnamon and ground cloves are used but they just flowed on in bite and did not intrude.

The use of pate brisee is necessary for sweet and savoury pies.  This all butter crust utilises unsalted butter, ice water, a teaspoon each of salt and sugar, plus all purpose flour.  I also found the croissants from Hot Bake a pretty good choice - not too dry, with yummy flavour and just the right texture for breakky or a snack.

Hot Bake is located along Balgownie Road in Balgownie Village, nestled on the foothills of the escarpment below Mount Pleasant and Mount Ousley and above the plains of Fairy Meadow, ten minutes drive north from Wollongong CBD.  It lies between the cross roads of Napier and Church Streets and is across the road from the Balgownie Pub.  It is also only a few doors from the Balgownie Fish Shop.

Chase Oyster Bar - Chatswood, Sydney

Catching up with long time friends is important. To be able to do so with enjoyable dining is a privilege. To have reasonably good food, in relatively quiet ambience, and to also have delightful conversation, is a pleasure.


The Chase Oyster Bar offers more than the name suggests. Chef Paul Della Marta has a wide varied menu that combines both French and Italian cuisine. On the Sunday evening that we sampled his fare, the guinea fowl had run out - I reckoned it must be popular, but was the only game on the menu. Paul's abilities in cuisine dining surpasses the location of his restaurant, next door to a food court and a competitor that thrives on turnover, snacks and different pricing. The location does not fully reveal Paul's promise and delivery, nor positions them for his potential market of his genre.

I was delighted to find attractive pricing for the quality of the food coming out from the kitchen of Chef Paul. Seafood, soups, pates, risottos, salads, pastas, meats, desserts, breads and drinks are made available in the menu. The service by the sole waiting staff that night was efficient and given without fuss. We commenced with a selection of oysters on the shell - Kilpatrick, Thermidor, Mornay, etc. Some of the flavourings used did overwhelm the essentially subtle nature of the oysters. I loved the refreshing texture of the bread rolls, though, with or without butter.

The mains were better. I absolutely loved my choice of the duck roulade. it was not fatty, the inside fillings were just right and the serving was generous. The accompanying carrot and green bean slices were fresh, sweet and appetizing. We had also requested a common plate of stir fried vegetables, which were well done enough to add to my mains. I quickly forgot about missing the guinea fowl once I tucked into the duck. Wendy had a choice of seafood grilled with garlic jus. Daniel had suggested that I should have a beer and I was glad to take him up on that. He had the tortellini with Ausi blue swimmer crab in bisque. I must say my preoccupation with my duck made me forget what Celine had for mains, or was it when another friend Cindy came to say hello with his young daughter after they had finished their meal at the next door New Shanghai Cafe.

Celine did have the same choice of dessert as mine - the unmistakeable test of the cream brûlée, presented with a wholesome surface tarnished with aromatic brown caramelised shades and with a consistent custard feel inside. The strawberry was at the height of current seasonal voluptuousness, in contrast to the mild flavours of the dollop of ice cream placed on the other end of the long and flat serving plate. Daniel had the sesame and green tea flavoured ice cream. Wendy did well with a rather delicate ricotta cheesecake slice, maybe more ricotta than cake.

The night outside hung with a nippy bite in the air, as Chatswood folded into a quiet Sunday's end. Chef Paul had changed into mufti by the time we waved goodbye to him and left. Here was a beam of Euro and modern Australian dining in a suburb increasingly dominated by Asian variations of cooking. I enjoyed a place where there was no rush on your eating pace. I had discovered a refuge where Australian produce and ingredients were utilized to create dishes from continental traditions - and where I could still find the battered fish.

Lolli Redini - Orange, NSW

On a cold night, with single digit temperatures, venison does warm the palate. Siting next to me, Chris chose, as mains, the loin of Mandagery Creek venison, garnished by a horseradish cream, generously swamped by slow cooked and spiced red cabbage and richly accompanied by Waru organic beets and a dollop of celeriac gratin. (picture above).  Welcome to the inner sanctum of the Lolli Redini.

A refreshing choice of side serve is having a choice of green coloured vegetables (broccoli and beans in picture above) doused with Le Barre olive oil and a twist of lemon.  My first taste of Lolli was in the ocean trout carpaccio (image below), as topped up by garlic toasts, horseradish remoulade, celeriac, green apple slices and mint leaves.  Remoulade is a French inspired sauce based on mayonnaise or aioli and may contain paprika, capers and anchovies, always popular to accompany seafood dishes.  Celeriac, also referred to as a knob celery, is turnip-rooted. A carpaccio is an Italian appetiser served with a mayonnaise based dressing, first formulated at Harry's Bar in Venecia in the 1950s.

Right in front of me, as served to Cindy, was the twice cooked Wagyu brisket, graced by rosemary flavoured crumbs, broccolini, Jerusalem artichoke puree and glazed Heirloom carrots and swedes (or Rutubaga, the Swedish turnip), gently surrounded by a brisket sauce, great with barbecued meats.

 

The Orange art fraternity do seem to utilise Lolli as a gathering place, and this is evident from the hung art pieces on the walls as you bite into your anticipated morsel of carefully prepared meals.
Contemporary French and Italian inspirations in the dishes, the restaurant recreates an Euro elegance with fine Australian produce from the central west of New South Wales. My impressions, of my night visit to Lolli Redini at Sale Street (nearest cross road is Byng)  in downtown Orange, are:
Atmosphere: Euro yet Aussie - reminders of Tuscany.
Location: In the centre of excellent local produce.
Taste: My pictures do not do it sufficient justice!
People Engagement: The staff member with a French accent was smiling and made useful suggestions of dishes whenever he spoke to guests.  Tall, slim and elegant, I reckon the lady diners would have considered him a big plus to an already good ambiance.
Service:  Attentive.  A possible blip when some of us had mains while the rest had entrees - what is the protocol in this for clearing the plates?
Best Time to Visit:  Dinner (only time opened)
Fav Dish Experienced: Slow roasted Belubula Pork belly, served with a sweet potato puree, wom bok cabbage and caramelised Granny Smith apples.  Belubula is a local river.
Would I Return?:  Whisk me away and deliver me to Simonn and Leah's gem of a restaurant!
Give me the pressed terrine of veal, rabbit and pork, served with a quince paste and a serving of Waru rocket salad and toasted truffle and buttered walnut sourdough.

Charmaine declared the risotto of asparagus, sweet peas, zucchini and parsley, as topped by king prawns from the Spencer Gulf in picture above, as outstanding.

Below, I had my main dish of Belubula pork belly, slow roasted instead of double cooked, providing me a hint of southern Chinese influences and yet with the reminder of Australian flavours in pumpkin and green taste of Granny Smiths.

The comprehensive wine, champagne and aperitifs list includes Pimms, and items from Reims in France and the Tamar Valley in Tassie.  Local Orange produce are illustrated by Ross Hill, Canobolas-Smith and Philip Shaw.