Tawandang Restaurant - Haymarket Sydney NSW

 Mean grilled squid rolls.




The last time I had the four angled beans was in stir fries back in Georgetown, Penang island and so I was delighted there is a salad at Tawandang that utilises this unique ingredient.  The menu at Tawandang can be varied and extensive.  One can go for reliable favourites or try unique creations.    The Miang range has also extended to include prawns in the Miang Goong, with spoons petitely laid out to hold the leaves and the seafood.

There are Thai twists on Chinese items like Yong Tau Fu and Lard Naa.  To make the menu more user friendly, there is also a page suggested by Tawandang of recommended dishes!

Char grilled pork cuts - juicy with texture and a most uplifting flavour.

The pork knuckle served at Tawandang caught my eye because of its inherent crispy thin skin.  The prawn cakes were wallops of flavour encapsulated inside an outstanding batter.  The grilled pork slices have sufficient fat, its sauce is terrifically compatible and the meat tender as it slides into our mouths.  Its spring rolls has crab meat and the salted fish fried rice is accompanied by kale.  Bright looking king prawns sit on a hot pot of vermicelli.

TIME magazine acknowledged its Bangkok based parent restaurant in 2003.  The love for beer and good spicy Asian delights - what can more more potent to help one relax?





Prawn cakes with a delectable batter that swirls different sensations on the palate.

 Unassuming, hidden amongst the wide choice in Haymarket Sydney's Chinatown along George. What stands out significantly is the uplifting taste, its varied sauces - each different with each dish - and its German micro brewery roots all the way from Bangkok.  Top dish to me is the char grilled pork cuts - I am moved to another higher dimension in this world of juicy meats on the bite. I eyed the mussel Homok  but maybe next time!  Service is good and the dishes came out fast after ordering.  The tamarind based soup with omelette and prawns reminds me of the Bangkok Restaurant at Capitol Square nearby, but this version is more rewarding. Another must try is the German influenced pork knuckle, accompanied with sauerkraut and potato mash but with a Thai twist. And oh yes, the beers.  Lager, Wiezel or Dunkel?  

Good with brew - the Kung Ruean Keao, crunchy miniature deep fried shrimp, in the tradition of traditional insect snacks from Bangkok.




So is this Germany in Thailand or Thailand in Germany?  Whatever.  It does provide an interesting collaboration of East and West, but mainly East, primarily Asia-Pacific.   To me, the formula makes it stand out amongst the very competitive Thai culinary industry in Australia.   One may have enchanting hybrids in cooking, but what is significant is to provide outstanding taste.  That to me is what makes Tawandang top in my palate.  Whether it is an extra crunch, a carefully thought of sauce or the freshness of ingredients used, they all contribute to the overall quality of a dish - and I so far cannot find fault with any I have tried.   Next opportunity, I am looking forward to the pickled egg basil, steamed seafood mouse - Homok on mussel shells -  and deep fried Barramundi.

A most unusual but tasty Pork Knuckle or the Ka Moo Tod.
German in origin with mash and sauerkraut served, but served with a Thai spicy sauce.

The Sydney outlet is the smallest in its chain - it follows in the layout style of many Thai food establishments by having an open counter, cultural tinged lighting bulbs and a wooden feel.  The printed menu has impressive photos of the dishes and that makes it simpler to choose.  Its shop front can be understated but like in Thailand, provides a copy for the current menu for street passers-by to browse through.   The evening my dining group of four persons visited , there were many guests of Thai background, some with their non-Thai partners.  A queue formed outside by twilight even on a week day.   

After work and but took early for dinner, I refuse to go home!

Tawandang Restaurant Sydney is located at 706 George Street, in the section between adjacent Goulburn and Campbell Streets.
Telephone: 612 9211 0138
Opening Hours: Sundays to Wednesdays 11am to midnight.
Thursdays to Saturdays 11am to 1am.
Reservations taken.

Tawandang's original home is in Bangkok, with two outlets.
RAM INDRA
51/199-200 Moo I Khwaeng
Ladprao, Bangkok 10230
Telephone: 0-2944-5131-2
Opening hours 5pm to 1am.

RAMA 3 (opens in 2005)
462/61 Rama 3 Road
Yannawa, Bangkok 10120
Telephone: 0-2678-1114-6
Opening hours 5pm to 1am.

Both outlets in Bangkok are large restaurants with nightly shows and popular for birthday celebration gatherings.


In Singapore, Tawandang Microbrewery opened in 2009 and is at Block 26, Dempsey Road, Tanglin with live bands.
Telephone: + 65 647667

Matterhorn - Te Aro Wellington

Venison Denver Leg with captivating sides.

A coolish mid June evening surfaced after the early winter sunset brought down temperatures.  The open fire places in the restaurant were being stoked and the engaging male staff in the courtyard allowed me to sit inside.  Both the food and drink menu is impressive.  The latter concentrated on New Zealand wines (especially from Hawkes Bay, Central Otago and Marlborough)  but also had several selections from Spain, Portugal, Italy and France. Crayfish, tuna  and salmon are featured for seafood but I reckoned the uplifting feature of the menu is the clever and thoughtful combination of ingredients.

I thoroughly enjoyed the duck variations with brioche entree.  Creative, imaginative and tasty on the palate, degustation of the several duck variations inspired my expectations and uplifted my comfort. Perhaps a mark of the return of head chef Sean Marshall from late last year.  Settling down in an Indian Runner cocktail, I did find the place rather too dark for its own good and the tiny flickering table lights did  not much help in reading the menu.

The Matterhorn in Wellington CBD is located hidden inside a passageway - after the sign outside on Cuba Street mall side, there is no other indication of where the restaurant is.  The staff were diligent in ensuring my drinks did not run out, whether non-alcoholic or not.  Seated near the bar, I could catch the banter of guests who treated it more like a pub.

Duck in the dark with brioche.

Being such an established institution in The Land of the Long White Cloud,  the Matterhorn carries a heavy burden in reputation and delivery.

I enjoyed the Franco-German theme and feel of the set up, provided with a finesse in the way the kitchen prepared meats, grilled and cured.  I selected the Venison Denver leg for my mains as it is local Kiwi produce  and I was looking forward to how the Matterhorn served it.  When the dish came, I was immediately distracted by the side servings, especially the eggplant caviar plus the Miso mix with sweet potato - this was an elegant representation of the best from the land.  Black sesame with other grains echoed absolute globalisation.  Oh yes, getting back to the venison, this had a deep flavourful texture.  It held its firmness and yet it was subtle on the bite.

Perhaps it was too early a start.

It had not been easy to zoom down to my final choice of starters.   The coddled egg had gravy over accompaniments of oyster mushrooms, polenta, garden peas and chicken wing bacon, all on one plate.  Another entree, wild rabbit, was enhanced with Spanish sherry, flavoured with cardamom and served with Shitake mushrooms, wild greens, barley and Heritage carrots.

For  lighter mains, Matterhorn offers the house Agria Gnocchi, made with seasonal harvest , pecorino and nettle pesto.  For heavy eaters, the Plate of Pig jumped out to my attention, served with pickled pumpkin,  Savoy cabbage and cider sauce.  Very German, very Oomp Pah Pah!

For those not having a course meal, the Matterhorn offers an interesting option to go with just drinks - the Grazing Food section.  An example of informal flexibility, you can have small serve items like mussels  bathed in malt vinegar, a Charcuterie board, Momma's fried chicken, Tuna sashimi, polenta fried zucchini dipped with spiced Tahini yogurt and simple Dukkah bar nuts.   Just great for after office chill outs and group drink sessions.

There are two outlets for the Matterhorn in New Zealand:

1.  Wellington - 106 Cuba Street, Te Aro

Open Monday to Saturday from 3pm till late;  Sundays from 1pm till late.
Nearest cross road  - Ghuznee or Dixon Streets
Telephone:  04 3843359

Bookings recommended on weekends.
Atmosphere - relaxed and diverse, with business, family and social groups
Sit down section inside and outside  with a joint bar section.

2.  Auckland - 37 Drake Street, Freemans Bay at the Victoria Street Markets  (not visited at this stage).

Open Monday to Saturday from 3pm till late;  Sundays from 1pm till late.
Telephone: 09 9292790

My impressions of the Matterhorn in Wellington:

Ambiance:  It can be a pub, it can be a fine dining experience.  Relaxed and diverse, one can be sitting near boisterous guests or have a private corner.

Taste:  More than satisfying.  Accompaniments bring the diner to higher sensations on the palate.

Location:  Not exactly ideal and such food created deserves a better waterfront setting.

X factor:  The chef's clever combination of ingredients to create exciting and well blended dishes.

Attentive mindset by most staff.

Would I return?  Yes, for the inspiring menu.  Also to soak in with the English Patient Martin Miller's, Saffron Gin, lemon, sugar and hopes made ginger liqueur.  There are only four Australian wines that evening if I saw it right - the Knappstein Shiraz from the Claire Valley South Australian; Shaw & Smith chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills;  Adam's Rib chardonnay from Beechworth and the NV Chambers Muscadelle from Victoria.  One USA choice  - the Zinfandel from California.

Sugarloaf Patisserie, Kogarah - southern Sydney

Eyes on the Portuguese tart!

Situated opposite the Caltex petrol station across Oakdale Avenue in Kogarah, and at the junction with President Avenue leading to the Esplanade at Brighton Le Sands, with a busy fruitery nearby, stands an establishment decked out in white and bright red. I initially needed a coffee on the way driving to the north shore of Sydney and had always wanted to stop by this place - Sugarloaf - but previously I was passing by there at the wrong time and it was already closed. So I made a purposeful stop this time around, had my Arabica and had my eyes opened to the delights created by Kurt and Wendy.  There it all was - South American

empanadas, dulce de leche, vanilla slices, Argentinian caramel  delights, German  torte and Spanish churros.

A couple of Spanish speaking women were engrossed in their conversation at the next table. Although the cafe has the usual plethora of birthday cakes, quiches, cupcakes and pies, I was most captivated by their offering of triple crustless sandwiches (de Miga), so unique and so different, together with the medium sized 

rail station clock on the inner wall.  There is seating both indoor and outside and it was a particularly sunny aspect to the Sunday winter's mid morning.

What are my impressions of the Sugarloaf Patisserie? Colour, taste and fun.

There are specialised teas waiting on shelves.  The day I was there, in attendance as well was 

a smiling young man at the counter and a busy female barista interacting with the customers. I also recall the 

breads, families and cling wrap, a feel of a village gathering hub and a variety of things to choose from. I reckon it feels like morning and afternoon cuppas there, plus the delightful feeling of trying out petite creations or wholesome savoury stuff. 

Apparently suburban but Sugarloaf has a certain sophistication in its products.

The pastel in Brazil, or Spanish empanada, is basically a baked or deep fried pastry or stuffed bread, well known in southern Europe and Latin America, although it can also be found in South-east Asia, a legacy of colonial times there.  The cousin of the empanada is probably the curry puff in Indonesia or samosa from India.  Back in Galicia and Portugal (in the latter, just known as empada), the fillings of these snacks can be cod, chorizo or pork loin. The important thing that distinguishes a good one is the quality of the gravy or sauce inside, usually based on garlic, tomato and onions.

Whether with savoury or sweet intentions, if your eyes navigate through the displays of the Sugarloaf, you will find many variations of caramel in its offerings.  However the canoli I saw has chocolate inside.  I found the yellow round shortbread biscuits not so creamy but more flaky instead.  Generally I can say Sugarloaf's freshly baked menu can be described as crispy, crunchy and aromatic. It is a delight to me to find they are not overwhelmingly sweet, for example in the most sensational almond croissants and in biting into the elegant Portuguese tart.

Churros, whether you see them as exotic doughnuts, simple fried dough pastry or knotted dippers, are related to the you tiao of China and the eu char kueh found in Chinese communities around south-east Asia.  Sugarloaf offers a delectable version for breakfast, brunch or afternoon tea.  Beautifully made churros also give pleasure in their carefully crafted prism shape - and they can be curly, spiral or star-shaped.  In Europe and Latin America, you naturally think of chocolate with the churros; in Asia, they are seen as savoury accompaniments to congee or just eaten on its own or dipped in hot coffee.

Dulce de leche is a Portuguese confection used mostly to flavour ice creams, cookies, cakes and creme caramel.  A comparable process in French cuisine is known as confiture de lait.  Both depend on a caramelisation to change and transform the ultimate colour and flavour by heating sweetened or condensed milk.  This resulting candy of milk is offered at Sugarloaf.

Waiting for your palate, well toasted almond flakes grace a carefully prepared pastry.

The torte can be rich on the mouth and pompous in looks.  Central Europe and German traditions are well known for Linzer torte and the Austrian Sacher torte.  This is perhaps where Kurt showcases his talent and experience at Sugarloaf.  A multi layered cake, the torte utilises jams, butter creams, whipped creams , mousse or fruits to add festivity and sensations between the layers.  Interesting enough, breadcrumbs or ground nuts are used instead of flour.  The cooled down torte, once prepared, is usually glazed and garnished. It is an effort of love, inspiration and tradition.

Would I return to Sugarloaf? A definite yes, now that I know that they are open on weekends. The staff are friendly and act fast.  It harks back to memories of Sao Paulo, Buenos Aires or Barcelona - and yet you may sense the whiff of the Australian surf not too far away. The variety of what you can choose surpasses the size of this corner cafe.

In The Barossa

The Lifestyle, South Australia October 2009


Contraption and Natural at Grant Burge Showroom


Arrival from Faraway - German Immigration to South Australia


Entrance to the Chateau Dorrien


Misty Memory of a Family Settling On a New Land