Europa Europa

 Europeans are often viewed as originating in the north west corner of the Northern Hemisphere.  This misperception of the term "European" can downplay the extensive presence of Slavic demographics in Russia, south eastern Europe and the eastern Slav nations.

Russia has lands extend from eastern Europe to the coasts above Japan, Korea and China - 77 per cent of Russian territory is in Asia, although most Russians live in Europe. Russia can be said to be straddling both Europe and Asia.

It really depends on a point of view.

The European continent as such can be seen as layers of differing historical, religious and cultural implications.  The Vikings were focused on colder climes, as opposed to the Mediterranean nations that were the locations of the Greek, Roman and Ottoman traditions.

In between are the core of what is perhaps to be central European -  Latin influenced territories meeting up with Germanic homelands and spreading into the Balkans.

The impact Europe has made on the contemporary world has been having better technology, implementing colonisation, stirring geopolitics, conducting the major wars of the 20th century and securing world wide trade links. 

The Empire under which the sun once never sets - the British - has spawned five Anglocentric societies that still cuddle together in political flavour and intent in the 21st century. 

Apart from the Mother Country, the other four already have resident Indigenous peoples before their colonisation.  Britain used to extensively rely on agricultural, human, logistics and military resources from this alliance - and still do to varying extents.  Three of these nations still have a British monarch at the top of the chain.

There are two obvious nations geographically far removed from Europe -  but evolved into their present day realities primarily built from European settlement.  One is Argentina, populated by southern Europeans - and the other is Australia, first settled by the British and Irish.  Each nation is sited in a part of the world surrounded by non European cultures.

Being geographically located so close to northern Africa and the so called Middle East, Europe has significantly been affected by outside influences.  The European mind has in the long term been heavily influenced by, amongst others:

Arabian mathematics,
Greek philosophy,
Roman infrastructure,
City states that valued diversity, Mongolian attacks,
Muslim rule,
the Renaissance,
political upheaval,
artistic movements,
the power of royalty and
movement of peoples attracted by her wealth and relative freedoms.

Queen Victoria and Prince Albert had their daughters married off across various European royalties, including that to the last Russian Tsar. 

The remnants of colonialism in the 20th century had Indians, Africans and south east Asians establishing residential status across France, Holland, the UK and Spain. 

The conflicts in 21st century Arab nations, economic seekers from Africa and south Asia and left wing political correctness added to another wave to another significant wave of migration, particularly to Germany and the Scandinavian nations.

The Indian diaspora seems to now be at its height of dispersion and extensiveness.
A transformative event was the expulsion of ethnic Indian residents from Uganda.  This started the Indianisation of Britain, which had to accept them based on their colonial status.  The Empire struck back and Anglo Indian manifestation spread onwards from Mother England to Canada and the United States.

Indian political and cultural prowess had already been evident in south east Asia before the advent of Islam and European takeovers.  Perhaps Indianisation here was more successful than Sinofication - one just reflects on evidence of Hindu and Buddhist kingdoms, artefacts, arts and structures scattered from present day Vietnam to Java.  The rather significant Indian influences also expressed themselves in language - contemporary Malay or Indonesian language has words originating from Sanskrit and other Indian tongues.

Will this historical Indian influence now seep and revive into the fabric of the five Anglicentric nations?  It has already established more than a beach head in the United Kingdom.  Will Indianisation jump across the Channel into mainland Europe - which is already grappling with Muslim demographics in the key nations of France, Germany and Scandinavia?

In eastern Europe, questions have arisen as to whether Russia wants to expand beyond her borders, or just wants to maintain her historical integrity.  Continental Europe's past has been significantly marked by what three powers do -  German- Prussian, French or Russian.  British royalty has Germanic foundations.  Europeans have given the world her share of philosophers, scientists, artists, political leaders and dictators.

South of the borders of Russia are the central Asian states and China.  China and India had the largest economies in the world before the onslaught of sailing ships, colonisation and the rise of European powers.  White Russians have lived together with Manchurians, Koreans and Han Chinese in the north eastern corner of the Eurasian mass.  The role of Russians as Europeans interacting with Asians has often been underemphasised.

The closeness of Communism from Soviet Russia into the development of Chinese Communism has resulted from how most European colonial powers treated a fledging and weak Chinese Republic after the fall of the last royal dynasty in 1912.
Key China leaders did however spend their formative years savouring and exploring revolutionary ideas and polititical thought in Paris.

The rather embedded sentiments in Europe from 1945, with the United States and her four Anglo connected partners rescuing Europe from the Nazis, are still difficult to shake off.  This sentiment perhaps has to be seriously resolved as Europe navigates into the future.  Europe has this vital opportunity to implement her own strategic interests and values in the face of changing geopolitics and the rise of a multi-polar world.

Most European powers have divested of their colonies, except for France and the United Kingdom.   Emerging powers are now strengthened by rising abilities in technology, infrastructure, trade and new networks in political relationships - not in far flung isles, navy ports of old and geographical spots which are no longer
strategic.

#yongkevthoughts

Behind Racist Impressions

 My experience living in Australia for more than 30 years does not synchronise with the news reports in America of Asians or Asian looking people suffering violence with racial suggestions as victims of robbery attacks.

Racism can be a two edged sword.  It may not just be articulated by individuals or groups representing so called mainstream society on minorities - but can also occur the other way.  Racism can be subtle or covert, especially when the law or public policy is to ban it, or overt, as in societies like Malaysia, Sri Lanka, South Africa, India, Fiji and Myanmar.    Is it better to be able to read racism openly or do we have to put up with it in various shades like career progress ceilings, restricted admissions to prime universities, unspoken loops or barriers and moves behind your back?  I would rather be physically attacked than be discriminated in subtle and gradual ways.   Talking of individuals who commit violence on the streets of New York, Sydney, London or Perth, there may be unknown factors behind the video clips of such attacks.   Is it economic, with no racial intentions at all, or is it an unstable mental health manifestation?   Can one be in the wrong place at the wrong time in crime hidden areas?  African-Americans and Asian-Americans can come together being discriminated by whites, but Blacks are seen to attack Asians and Asians are heard to look down on Blacks.  Maybe we cannot interpret everything through an ethnic identification lens.

As the population of minority groups come to dominate the flavour and flow of certain suburbs in Western nations, the phenomenon of a perceived safety in numbers seems to manifest itself.  Increasing numbers of suburbs across Greater Sydney are populated more and more by people who are not Caucasian in background.   The so called white Aussie, on visiting such suburbs, can not be blamed to feel possibly left out, as if they have been pushed out of such suburbs by creeping economic, educational and business disparities. 

The demographics in regional Australia can be different.  I reckon one of the root causes of racism anywhere, even in Malaysia, is the unwillingness of so called racists to reach out half way to better understand the so called other side.   Attacks we see by people who seem racist also indicate that  that they often have no social connections with people of another ethnic background.

China nationals have arrived in significant numbers to reside in Australia in the so many years before Covid ravaged 2020.   They entered residency through higher education, the better purchasing power of a rising middle class back in China and have made business and trading more dynamic in Australian capital cities. 

The social habits of China nationals however can be very different from Malaysian migrants who have benefitted from growing up in a multi-racial and more diverse society.   Those who migrate from Malaysia tend to mix better with all racial groups in Melbourne, Sydney, Perth and Brisbane.   China migrants tend to stick together amongst themselves, perhaps due to their increased reluctance to speak English and always proud to articulate primarily in Mandarin (unless they have no choice).   Malaysian migrants like to try a diversity of the wonderful culinary dishes available in contemporary Australia, while most migrants from China I am told, rightly or wrongly, tend to stick to their hot pots, Ma La Tang (spicy hot soups) and niche dishes.   The opportunity of Caucasians to know China migrants better is limited to working with them or marrying one of them.   When more numbers of a specific ethnic community congregate in certain suburbs, they find they can go through a viable life pattern in Australia without  necessarily making social networks with other races.   This reality can also apply to migrants of Korean, Thai, Latin American, Polynesian and Turkish  origin across Australia, often not out of their choice.

On the other hand, Indian migrants tend to be expressive, are comfortable speaking English and have a more gregarious personality.

The chances and risks of getting beaten up by anyone increases when one has no choice but to be out on the streets and lanes when thugs, unstable people and petty criminals tend to hang about.   If I have to do a second job at a fast food joint that closes late at night, I can increase my chances of meeting violence while I transverse a lonely park or busy drug peddler's lane on the way home.   If I have to take public transport, I increase my chances of  coming across a person who already has addiction, alcohol and mental health issues.   Such violent individuals can really beat up anyone in their path - and their social intelligence and experience are so depraved.  Many recent migrants anywhere lead a battler's life making ends meet, especially in these Covid ravaged  .

Ten Nations, Ten Economies

China, USA, Japan, Germany, the United Kingdom, Mexico, Russia, Brazil, India and Indonesia - these forecasted biggest economies by 2050, in no particular order, as predicted by PwC, seem to have the largest populations as well, apart from the UK and Germany.

Three of them - USA, Russia and China - also have sizeable warfare capability.
At the same time, the current USA administration views China as a competitive threat in various fields, whether they be high tech, trading, political systems, economic capacity and more.

The USA has a strong network of military bases around the world but domestically its people deserve renewal and expansion of public infrastructure. China has currently only one military base on foreign soil and within and without China itself, has built up impressive transport links, including High Speed Rail links, contemporary bridges and new highways.

China spends much effort and funding on improving itself, thrives on its Confucian based educational system and emphasises on social order - while the USA is a huge arms supplier, does not renew for the future by replacing its core industries and has lots of freedom of expression.

The population disparity of the USA when compared with Russia and China adds to another dimension of analysis when more people have rising incomes. This implication echoes in market purchasing power, less reliance on overseas buyers, flexibility in economic growth and cultural pride.

Leadership in these three nations is determined differently - yet this is is a critical factor as to how the USA, China and Russia bear out in navigating their future path. The USA is a relatively young nation and was built by immigrants, when compared with the richer cultural and nationalistic traditions and heritage of Russia and China.

How will each of these three nations balance the all important pattern of strength of economy and power of political systems?

Germany seems to continue to be the financial leader of Europe in the 21st century. Historically, Europe has been a dramatic stage point of fierce militaristic contention. Russian, French, German, Austro-Hungarian and British forces have helped draw out the boundaries of the sub-continent today. The Middle East has influenced Europeans not only in the Rennaisance, but exported its religious, philosophical, scientific and cultural influences in a very regular and effective way.

How Germany deals with Russia as both economies lead this region in 2050 is important. Russia currently has a higher level of natural resources, economic growth potential and population than any other European country. Germany is a powerhouse of technology, scientific advancement and political leadership.

Yet Germany also finds itself at the interface between Christian and Muslim influences as it continues to enjoy its relatively better economic prosperity.

The UK is a shade of its once glorious dominance, which commenced when the sun set over its once world wide colonial empire. Still, it has developed a London centric financial hub, perhaps neglecting the economic future of the countryside, but attracting the skilled young from so many countries. The Royal Family provides a reliable institution to mesh with the checks and balances of its Westminster parliamentary system. 

Perhaps the stongest feature of the British economy is its relative openness to foreigners and foreign influences. This trait may be reduced when and if Brexit becomes a reality. Will Britain break up as a result of the consequences of Brexit? More certain is an economic downturn for Britain on its divorce from the EU.

Immigrants from its former colonies have added to the colour and vibrancy of its economy in the cities. The Industrial Revolution and the proceeds of colonial era trade laid very strong foundations tor the British economy. The important question is what the nation is investing for its future. Is it higher education, high tech or a reliable place to park and grow money?

Brazil will continue to be subject to socio-political instability risks as its demographics enjoy better wealth. How democracy can be modified or improved is yet to be seen even with better per capita incomes. Will the indigenous people within Brazil get a better life? The various demographics who live in Brazil will experience more expectations in the quality of life, as what we saw in China in the past three decades.

If history is to be repeated, better economic growth in Brazil can see more decimation of the forests, more upsets in the ecosystem and more financial inequities. Yet this is the opportunity for Portuguese speaking Brazil to provide a positive example to Latin American nations, even if the neighbours speak Spanish.

Mexico will be the powerhouse of Latin America. The nation has always been cast as the poorer cousin in North America, but has a pool of people more passionate to improve their lives. Crime, corruption and a big income gap have colluded to economically oppress the masses, together with a volatile and varying governing leadership. 

Emigration has offered a channel of relief, especially to other territories with a richer lifestyle and where people also speak Spanish. What the USA does is critical but the Mexican population, although less than that in the USA, is growing faster than their neighbour north across the border (Also reflect on Indonesian and Australian population parameters.)

Mexico relies on industries such as peteoleum, car manufacture, tourism, food, iron and steel plus consumer durables like clothes. It relies hugely on trade with the USA, Canada, Spain and Brazil. The country has to lift itself out from this profile as its economy grows - and it can be done with good leadership.

India does speak a variety of languages, including English, but is subject to nationalism risks and socio-political vulnerabilities. The nation is said to soon exceed the population of China, but how does the government harness the promise and talent of each individual? 

There is a significant diaspora of Indians, not only in south east Asia and south Africa, but also in the Western societies of the UK, Canada, the USA, Australia and New Zealand, plus in miscellaneous territories in the Caribbean and the South Pacific. Will this other talent pool also add to India's gigantic economic growth?

India has not developed the high degree of public infrastructure that China has. Whilst contemporary China downplays the role of religion, Indians place faith and prayer as part of every day life. 

India as a nation is a federated entity created by the departing colonials, and its variety of different cultural entities can be as varied as in Europe.

Japan was the original non European Boy Wonder in the 1970s, with its disciplined society, fascination and ability to implement effective processes, its powerful links between business and Government, a focussed educational system and a collective will to recover from its failed imperial military excesses. It is now a very mature economy, only with different work habits and attitudes from the Americans, but do share some of the positive charactetistics of the Germans.

Japan remains one of the few modern societies resistent to having large numbers of immigrants, apart from China, Pacific Ocean nations and several African states. It has prospered on maintaining a homogenous and unique culture and society. An aging society is forcing a rethink on such a policy, together with high pressures on the young in education and at work.

The economic growth of Japan has occured under the defence and military umbrella provided by the USA. When and if such arrangements end, the vulnerabilities of the Japanese islands can resurface. Japan's geopolitical position between the strategic and economic interests of China and the USA can be a two edged sword.

The rise of China has had ripple effects on Japan, when both cultures and nations has had intertwining relationships historically, in trade and in competition.

The mystery question for me is Indonesia, with an outsized population compared to its neighbours and subject to social and religious risks plus a huge income divide. Indonesia spreads across an archipelago of islands with room to grow in personal wealth and quality of life.

There are huge natural resources to utilise for thee masses instead of just for the just privileged and connected families. Risks of radicalisation continue to counter weigh against the benefits of growth. The military, religious leaders and a national consciousness are critical in propelling an optimal path for a growing economy.

Brazil, Mexico and India do not face the issues of declining populations in the next 30 years. The population size is only but one of the several factors promoting economic growth. Technology, governance stability, having strategic advantages, avoiding the damage from warfare, having insightful and progressive leadership, possessing unique natural and man made resources plus a political system that encourages innovation do help.

Temple of Heaven Beijing

The Tian Tan -  this was a place of sanctity, a site of privilege, for only the Emperor (aka the Son of Heaven) and his inner sanctum in dynastic Chinese days could use with protocol, respect and ritual.    The fate of the nation, especially its agricultural wealth and status, significantly depended on the strength of prayers performed and the viability of the Mandate of Heaven.   The cultural and religious head of the huge kingdom connected with the Universe and the sublime on this very chosen spot.    It was the vital link between the masses and the unseen powers in the skies, through which one man, the Emperor, was the only medium of communication, power and influence.



This place of importance has circular shapes in construction, as if to replicate the roundness of the planets, the Sun and the Moon.   The highest structure sits on elevated platforms, with tall pillars inside the halls and round topped roofs.     The size , shape and lay out of the place is connected with astrological beliefs and practice.    Grand institutions of Chinese background seem to have wide open spaces to transverse before approaching the main focus in a specific building.    Here the visitor, since it was turned into a public park in 1918, can approach at will and ease, as the underlying foundations of the philosophy behind the Temple of Heaven have been under emphasised in contemporary times.    In its royal past, pomp and ceremony accompanied visits performed only on days and certain hours calculated on precise pondering of the stars, astrology and the Chinese Zodiac.

Nevertheless, one does not lose the sense of vibes in the air as you explore with eye, feet and a heavy appreciation of history.    Of all the cultural sites for a tourist to Beijing, the Temple of Heaven perhaps is the most kind of all in requiring  exertion and climbing.    I also observe the emptiness of spaces -  there are no longer much furniture or adornments inside those great round shaped halls, where have they gone?     In its glory, the Temple of Heaven did not look so emptied out.    Now the reverence has gone, but human beings scramble over its stoned plazas.   To its credit, the government does maintain restoration works and does repairs.    


The other part I like about the Temple of Heaven is outside , along garden paths lined with fruiting trees and just walking along outside the inner walls.    On a nice day like in September, the air is warm and the sun is kind.    Why was the Temple of Heaven built on this spot?  What is the relationship with Taoism and Confucianism?   This is a tribute to higher powers and so separated from the earth bound goings on in the Forbidden City.  

The colours that still stand out today are red, dark blue and white.      They all have purposeful meanings, not just the whims of officials nor the practical choices of maintenance.     Located south-east of the Forbidden City, in Dongcheng District, the complex was built in the early 15th century by the Yongle Emperor of the Ming Dynasty and renovated by the well respected Qianlong Emperor of the Manchu Qing Dynasty (1644 to 1911).


UNESCO recognised this as a world heritage cultural site in 1998.   During the Boxer Rebellion, troops from the  eight foreign nations which occupied Beijing desecrated the Temple of Heaven in the first decade of the 20th century.  The most impressive building, the Hall of Prayers for Good Harvests, remains the most beautiful sight in proportion, stature and aesthetics.   It is also remarkable for being a construction that uses no nails and all wood, reminding me of another spectacular building in Japan - the Horyu-ji Temple in Nara, with five roofed tiers.   This Hall has three layers of gabled roofs with a fairy tale effect.   It is also graced with marble floors.


We were expecting much with what is called the Echo Wall, surrounding the Imperial Vault of Heaven.    Did we not shout not with some force from our lungs, or was there too much of a crowd that afternoon?    We did not get any effect of an echo liked we hoped for.   The complex itself can be accessed by four gates synchronised with the directions.    Numbers play a meaningful part in Chinese culture, for example in the Hall of Prayers for Good Harvests, you can see four inner pillars, 12 middle pillars and another twelve outer pillars - they represent the four seasons, 12 months and twelve clock hours.



East of the Hall of Prayers for Good Harvests is a seven Stone Group, meant to represent the seven peaks of Tai Shan, a mountain with celestial meaning and purpose.

Nine Dragons of Beijing - Forbidden City

National Museum of China Beijing

Hakka Toulou - Rustic Life

Image Credit for above  photograph -  Not Ascertained

Hakka Toulou - Nanjing County, Fujian Province

Out of around three thousand, there were 46 sites of the Fujian Toulou declared as of UNESCO world heritage status  in 2008, found in the south eastern corner of Fujian in southern China.  The topography and living environment here is mostly pristine, nestled amongst the hills and higher ground when compared with the coast.


These are the locations of unusual earthen constructions, many of them circular or rectangular  in shape and up to three or five stories high, which have been in history and currently the homes of the Hakkas, a distinct community driven south from central China by the wars, conflicts and political developments of China.   Hakkas, also known in Mandarin as the Ke Jia Ren or  "guest people", have achieved a record of survival, prosperity and determination.


The modernisation of the nation in economic and cultural terms, especially in the past 25 years, has witnessed less people residing in them as social pressures and personal  drive to improve a standard of living drive many to the cities instead of inducing them to remain in the country side.    Previously, when a family or clan grew in size, it was the customary practice to build an outer layer outside the original cluster, therefore providing an organic growth of the Toulou complex.

A day spent walking the various trails around the Toulou is a wonderful experience, not just in absorbing a different culture, but in appreciating that there is still clean air in parts of China, in soaking in the agricultural lifestyle and in having an opportunity to enjoy the local cuisine.    The produce is organic, especially in the vegetables and chickens.   There were many tourists strolling around in the Toulou area we chose to visit - Nanjing County in Fujian Province of China.

The boisterous van driver we engaged, Mr. Zhang, came as unique as we had hoped to encounter  - he is humorous, down to earth and hard working.  He deftly drove us past steep cliffs by the roadside, quarrelled with a potential banana seller and  was just full of personal energy.  Mr. Zhang has his hometown in Wuyi Shan, in north Fujian, but he is based in Xiamen, the bustling Hokkien city on the coast.

The Toulou are particularly shaped and designed to protect its residents from wild animals, bandits and dangers of any kind.    The circular shape of the building has a hollow middle, which allows for light to come in straight from the sky and for human activity to be carried on never the less of what is happening outside.   I am reminded of Stonehenge being filled up into a viable village round shaped town square.   The high ramparts all around this type of building allow for residents to look out for dangers from afar the horizon and landscape.   Water wells are provided within the safe area.  Stairs up and down the various floors are made of wood, otherwise everything else comes in stone and rammed earth.


The residents  live in unit styled rooms which remind me of contemporary flats or apartments in modern day cities.   The closeness with which residents carry out their daily lives can be disconcerting for personal privacy and yet can nurture a closeness in community relations.   They are all in for this together, which can facilitate co-operation and a better social order.    I am reminded of the adage of three generations living under one roof, coming to reality in this classic and innovative designed living style.

Three of us had said hello to a family, with the infant first catching our eye.   

Grandma was friendly, introducing us to her daughter,a young woman who already has become a mother. Their eyes sparked brightly, with a  kind of hope and promise.   Would living here be much better than residing in a contemporary faceless block with even more people, with even more floors?   I reckon it depends on what they choose to be their way of earning a living.  A farming life with livestock may not appeal anymore in China's rush to greater purchasing power and a digital tech environment.

This way of life may have served its past purpose, but now there are new frontiers to conquer, new challenges in different forms and an opportunity to break away from the past.   What little or much is earned from tourism can be difficult to sustain, and so many Toulou areas compete for this same dollar.    There is a dire need to strategically plan and implement the way forward - should the Toulou constructions be significantly repaired and maintained going forward?   It is one issue to look and remain quaint, but the serious question about these residences affect the future livelihoods of the people living there. Some have a fair measure of modern amenities and all have been observed to have good ventilation and lighting in their designs.

I was fascinated by the various square shaped windows that dot the steep vertical walls of each Toulou.   They remind me of possible military applications.   Each Toulou building surely is the cumulative effort, idea and patience of generations of resident families.  I also noted that no matter how big or small these earthen fort like constructions are, they only have one entrance and exit.  Residents can obviously have the same surname.


Each Toulou has a definite layout and no nails are used in its building up.  The central courtyard is dedicated to a shared worshipping spot and a well.   Guests are received on the first floor, where logically you have the kitchen, living room and dining areas.  Bedrooms and storage spaces are located on upper floors.   There are stone or wooden benches on the ground floor, used by residents or tourists alike.


We were greeted by an enthusiastic young lady who showed us how the rammed earth bricks are made.  This was in a compact museum like room displaying the tools, equipment and results of the process.  The walls of a completed Toulou are thick,  an outcome of mixing limestone, earth , wood, bamboo and padi field clay.   Most of what we can see and visit today were built in the last three hundred years, the most recent ones dating from the 1970s.   They are said to be even earth quake proof, a very useful feature, and are warm in winter and cooling in summer.

There were high and low moments on our day excursion this time.  An elderly lady sitting outside a dilapidated Toulou was shouting out incessantly for money to be paid if we wanted to enter that specific building, and nearby we were charged entry fees to use the toilets.  The high point was coming across a free flowing river, even if it was relatively shallow, and this scenic spot had a bridge to transverse and use for photographic opportunities.


I distinctly remember the massaging effects on our feet on walking for long periods on cobble stoned paths in this Toulou area.   We also chanced upon a bar when looking for a washroom.   Many tourists we encountered came from within China itself, including the two young women who helped us take photographs.   I fondly recall the yellow skinned organic chicken poached for our lunch in a tourist stop just before we headed to the hills.   Getting out of Xiamen proper, we had stopped to saviour bananas of all sizes and colours, especially the yummy red skinned types.    I observed how rich the soil is when approaching Nanjing County.

As with the main communities who have made southern China their home, many Hakkas have migrated overseas, especially to south-east Asia, but also to Europe, Canada, Australia, the UK, the USA, the Indian sub-continent, Suriname and Timor-Leste.  In the Malay Peninsula,  two well known Kapitan Cinas of the 19th century were Yap Ah Loy of Kuala  Lumpur and  Chung Keng Quee of Perak and Penang. 


In Taiwan, it is estimated almost every one out of five residents has a Hakka background - their most well known political  son is past President Lee Teng Hui.  Most of the Chinese in Sabah, Mauritius and Reunion have a Hakka heritage.  Solomon Ho Choy had the distinction of being appointed Governor in Trinadad and Tobago, the first non-white to do so in the whole of the British Empire.   San Yu, President of Mynamar in the 1980s, was of Hakka background.  


This community had many ardent  supporters of the Communist Revolution in the 20th century.       In China, three Hakka individuals from history come to mind -  Hu Yao Bang, Chairman of the Chinese Communist Party in 1981 and 1982, and General Secretary of the aforesaid Party from 1982 to 1987;  Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, founder of the Republic of China in 1911, which terminated dynastic rule; and  Hong Xiu Quan, the leader of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom Christian political movement in the middle of the 19th century.


Two Prime Ministers of Singapore, the late Lee Kuan Yew and his son, Lee Hsien-loong and General Ne Win of Burma have Hakka connections.

Shantou Synergy - Markets

A Sunday morning walk seemed the perfect idea, especially when after several days in a foreign land, mostly taking in touristy sights.   The weather was all right, warm above twenty degrees Celsius, although with a cloudy outlook.  We wanted to feel what a weekend can be for the Shantou locals, and not just in trying the food, but in aiming to have a grassroots perspective.    

Shantou, or Santow in Teochew, has its origins from the Song Dynasty  (960 to 1279 AD), and experienced massive devastation during the 1922 typhoon.   Almost a hundred years later, the city has bounced back, in no small part due to the grit, determination and passion of its people.    The Tropic of Cancer passes just north of the city and so the area has a sub-tropical climate.

After a quick snappy breakfast of millet porridge and steamed buns,  we eagerly propelled ourselves to the street markets located only a few roads away.   There we were, savouring in what must be lost in contemporary cities that have moved the provision of food to climate controlled bland buildings.    

Our first impressions were the sheer sight of eager but small businesses laying out their fresh produce on stalls out of a moveable table, or sited in what seems to be a hole in the wall.   More was to follow, like the buzz of commerce in eager eyes and careful buyers.   The colour, chatter and connectivity between producer and consumer.  The energy of butchering, crafting and cooking skills.   The sheer urgency to break even in trade and money before the sun rises up too high over the southern China coast.

Yellow bean curd for cooking, freshly made each day.

I was convinced, that day, I was brought back in time to a few decades earlier.   The streets are retro but were mostly clean, save for some debris discarded from the relentless push to sell and the passing by of market goers.  This was what perhaps Western society calls a wet market - and the stalls ran around a few streets, lanes and side alleys.   

The aisles between stalls could be the road itself or as narrow as a motor bike rider could push through, with wares and all.   We looked ahead at where we were possibly heading whenever we turned into a new path, conscious of the unknown, excited at the possibilities and our senses fully in tune with what greeted us.

If I was to think of one sentence to describe Shantou, it is the adage of "the early bird catches the worm".    And yet I am told that the Teochews love to participate in their midnight suppers.

Yes, I had planned for snacks like freshly steamed Teochew cakes, quick bites of savoury stuff and quaint drinks.  In the end, I ended up not having an actual bite of anything, even as we strolled along a journey of the wonderful, interesting and captivating.    Maybe we were too busily engrossed in discovering the new and the mysterious.  I was fascinated by the craft of the butchers, with their speciality choppers , intense focus and experienced ways.  And yet there are vegetables, fruits and seafood as well.


Whole legs of pig trotters, heads of goats and careful cuts of meat were displayed in a manner that opened my eyes but in another land, may have also made political correctness to display written warnings before one enters these markets.   Some of the sellers recognised the presence of sticky beak visitor-photographers who are intent to record everything on their dangling equipment.     Other let it be and were tolerant.   I was happy to record a lifestyle that is still vibrant in Shantou but have disappeared from many neighbourhood markets long ago.

Shantou oranges are well known, especially in south-east Asia and appreciated during the Lunar New Year.

I had set my eyes and taste buds on these biscuits.

The aroma, the sounds and the overall feel all rolled for a contented me.  This to me illustrated a real holiday, where one does not sit on deck chairs for long hours but gets immersed in the every day life, the practical regime and the soul of the locals.  I wondered what dishes the local women were planning for their kitchens with their fresh purchases of the day.  

This was Guangdong province, where it is a must and tradition to source fresh and to eat fresh.   Many market goers knew their suppliers well.   My group of six engaged to obtain the roast goose - not any goose, but that of the Lion head.  This is a goose species that was larger than usual.   There were already a few stalls that were selling the roasted versions and we had seen the live noisy quacking ones in some farms miles away from here.

Lotus flower roots, ingredients for soups and stir fries.

The buildings surrounding the markets can be quaint and could have seen better times, but truly on closer inspection, there are pockets of renovation, columns of wear and tear and echoes of previous prosperity.   Would I have preferred gleaming marbled walls, smooth and seamless floors and a uniformity of what seems to be modern business architecture?   Absolutely not!


In my mind and attitude, the character is enhanced of the place with all this sincere heritage look.  Times may not have been good when you see cheap tiles, cracked walls and rusty facades, but they all tell a story of frugality, weather worn effects and previous building periods.   Shantou is truly an old city harking back to hundreds of years, but the people are determined, passionate and hard working.   There is a certain rare charm about Shantou that one misses in so called modern hubs....is it the accumulated work of various generations, or is it the hope that bounces out of every child we meet, dotted upon by loving grandparents?   Is it in the way each trader conducts himself or herself in trade?  I find there is, underlying all things, a desire to improve one's lot.

Can someone please educate me on what this is?   Could they be the pork jelly, or Ter Ka Dang in Teochew?

In the West, we yearn for the slow movement,  in trying to shorten the journey of food and produce from source to our dining table.   Here in Shantou, I see this happening, even in the second decade of the 21st century.  The cynic in us may also raise doubts as to the integrity of the food, as to whether excess pesticides are used, as to whether farm animals have been humanely kept and whether there are any artificialities like plastic used in producing rice and milk.    


To me, the answer is simple - we use our own judgement in the taste of the food we choose to eat  - and we ensure that we are moderate in consuming any thing.    Richness is in variety - and from what we saw in the Shantou markets,  this was a place of what it means to be truly living.  There are grains and nuts,  shelled fish and swimming seafood; there are meats and other parts of grazing animals; there are the vegetables the goodness of edible flora;  there are home made creations of desserts, biscuits and cakes; and there are snacks and drinks.

The much desired roast Lion Heads.

I admired the detailed dedication of this young butcher in attending to his art and  livelihood.

Steamed, baked, poached, braised or stir fried ?   I pass by the oyster omelettes and duck in soups enhanced in taste by preserved vegetables.  Dumplings can be filled with a combination of dried shrimps, chives, ground pork, peanuts, mushrooms and radish.  The fish are best steamed, the duck is often braised and the chicken poached.  Congee is served thinner when compared to their cousins in Guangzhou.


I noted that there are not many diary based products here, being away from the temperate zone.  Shantou cuisine emphasises on using garlic, ginger, bean curds, soy based seasonings, dried and fresh seafood, rice based mixtures and vegetables.

Known in Singapore as Png Kueh, these pink lovelies stand out amongst the crowd.

Eggs are preserved by coatings on the outside of the shell and the result is a pickled snack that can be used when required.

Every corner and space is utilised to create a tight neighbourhood.

Some may question the standards of cleanliness of such outdoor markets, but as long as one consumes food and drink that is made in front of you, or well cooked, you do not have to worry.   I am more interested in the harmonious combination of textures and flavours that Teochew cuisine can offer.  Some dishes are bland but have accompanying sauces that uplift the taste.   There is no extensive use of chillies as in Sichuan culinary traditions, nor the variety of grills as in the north of China.  What then does Teochew food stress upon?

In the Guangdong practice and preference, freshness is important.   In Teochew cuisine, subtlety is also appreciated, like in the proper making of broths and stock soup.  At the same time, the preferred tea blend is an Oolong called the Tei Guan Yin, named in honour of the Goddess of Mercy, prepared and offered as Gong Fu tea.    To my understanding, this all smacks of a common theme - that of attention to details, whether in the precise cut of a meat, the fine texture of vegetables so they can absorb flavours and condiments or in the lifting up of seafood to its fresh best.

The flurry of activity at these Shantou markets make me forget that this is part of a country ruled by the Communist Party.   The desire to be self-sustaining at the individual and family level underlying this model in China is an alternative to a government having to provide extensive social security benefits, like in Western nations.  

Maybe we are all caught up too much with economic and political labels.   In Shantou, I witnessed sheer human drive, a smart way of doing things and a strong sense of community and family.   These factors are important to any culture and nation.I urge anyone to come visit China to see the reality and to realise the difference from the buzz that can permeate Western media.

The versatility that Shantou displays can be illustrated in its variety of working and living languages - Teochew, Hokkien, Hakka, Cantonese and Mandarin.    It is like at the crossroads of culture and trade locally and regionally.  The people you meet at the markets just want to complete a deal and move on.

There is this traditional utilisation of red coloured focus lamps at roast meat stalls.  Shown here are the Lion Head Goose.

These may not be for the faint hearted, but emphasises a good practice to use every part of the bird or animal.

Lion Head goose are special to the culinary heritage of Shantou and its heartland - there are stewed and roast versions, of which I prefer the latter.  Spices, sauces and wine are used to marinade the goose in both versions.    The goose is more gangly than duck, more earthy than chicken and the roast from Shantou has a deeper bite.

The unique Teochew sauce is the Sha Cha Jiang (in Mandarin) made from several ingredients of Brill fish, soybean oil, garlic, shallots, dried shrimp and chillies.  A mate suggested that this is not to be confused with the Sriracha sauce made in California  but originating from Thailand  - and making waves in fusion food and ethnic suburbs  around Western countries.

Snacks and biscuits, including several that use sesame seed.

This guy is not selling food, but demonstrating the various uses of his cooking utensils.

I could sense the natural entrepreneurship of the market stall holders and shopkeepers in this bustling Chinese port.  Shantou lies not far from the Special Administrative region of Hong Kong, but somehow has not blossomed in trade and commercial activity as much as its southern competitor.   The city's location beside both a river, the Han, and the South China Sea has blessed it with seafood produce.   Its hinterland of south Guangdong, a region brimming with manufacturing and trade, provides another blessing to Shantou as it does to Hong Kong.   Further north along the coast are the two powerhouses of Fujian province - Xiamen and Fuzhou. 


The nearby inland cities of Chaozhou and Jieyang, together with coastal Shantou, form a troika of conurbations shaping the Teochew heartland.  The Teochews themselves have made a significant economic impact in south-east Asia, where much migration took place in the 18th and 19th centuries, particularly to Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, present day Malaysia and Singapore.   Even the Shire of Fairfield in contemporary Sydney is a crucible of descendants of Teochews.