Southern Cape South Africa - Coastal Vignettes False Bay

Rocky with cliffs.  Sweeping vistas as the road winds its way to hug the contours of the Cape coast.
The wind is on our faces. That is how I first encountered the southern oceans, away from those in New Zealand and Australia.  The landscape here still has rugged terrain, with not many people, more natural and yet still impressive.   There are houses, mostly clinging on to the hill sides, but there is not much vehicular traffic.  Where are the surfers, one of the first thoughts that bugged me as I am transported down the Southern Cape, beside a bay that is seen as False.

 I was not certain whether this route I was taking with my group was passing by the Atlantic, or Indian, Oceans.   The relevant question then is whether False Bay is part of the Atlantic or Indian Oceans.  Spots with English and Dutch name origins dot the coast, like Parson's Nose,  Saint James, Murdock valley, Seaforth, long Beach, mackerel bay, Fish Hoek and Shelley Beach.   By coincidence, names like Shelley Baech, Seaforth and St, James are also used in the greater Sydney area in Australia.  There is a Mediterranean climate here, nurturing its popularity as a get away route with holiday homes, fishing for the Snoek, fine dining, scuba diving and yachting sport.

Where there are no sandy beaches, the ocean meets land with rocky surfaces or slopes of thin vegetation.  May be it was the season - early spring.  I could feel excitement of budding and practising geologist when coming to this region.  South Africa's Cape province is the site of more than several high points with record breaking cliff gradients beside an ocean.

False Bay is defined in boundary by Cape Hangklip, the cute name meaning "hanging rock".   This has been emphasised to us when we had a stop over to view a quiet large inlet.  Most likely a tour hot spot, for people had written in chalk names, places of origin and dates of being there.  It was a quietly stunning experience, soaking in the panoramas of rather placid waters touching the bases of cliffs.   The roads built to circumnavigate the coast are neither too wide nor narrow.   My group stopped mainly at Simon' Town and at Boulder Beach African Penguin colony.

Empty beautiful beaches line the route and provide a getaway from it all.  The landscape is so different from the interior of South Africa but here the Great White sharks swim aplenty.

From Muizenberg to Smitswinkel Bay, along a part of inlet called False Bay, the scenic ride or drive happens.   Seals around the shore at Cape Fur Seal do attract sharks in the waters - and just like around Australian waters, incidents of shark attacks do happen.  And not just any shark species, but the Great White. There is a register kept on line of casualties involving individuals off the coast of South Africa.

A  tip of a huge continent - Cape of Good Hope, but not where the Indian Ocean's warm Mozambique currents flow.

Rocky cliffs predominate part of the scenic route south from Cape Town to Simon's Town and Cape Point.

A bay along the False Bay coast.

Land's end at the Cape of Good Hope, where two major oceans still do not meet up.  The lesser known Cape Alguhas is said to be where the Atlantic meets the Indian Oceans, as the cold Benguela currents from Antartica still touch False Bay and Cape Point.
The Cape of Storms was changed in name by Portuguese King John II to the Cape of Good Hope, for its discovery and passage use by European colonists significantly changed the history of trade, cultural intermingling and cuisine development forever.

Cape Point is also known as Diaz point, in honour of Bartholomeu Diaz and rises 249 metres above the ocean level.  There is still some distance to traverse between the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point.  The latter has become another tour spot, with a funicular railway to ferry visitors up to the light house if you do not wish to climb up.  Interesting enough, Vasco da Gama Point is north of all these, along the southern stretches of False Bay, within the confines of the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, south of Smitswinkel Bay and Simon's Town.


You may want to check out:

The Black Marlin Restaurant
http://kindlyyours.blogspot.com.au/2015/09/the-black-marlin-simons-town-south.html

Penguin Colony
http://kindlyyours.blogspot.com.au/2015/10/penguins-boulders-beach-false-bay.html

and

Simon' Town
http://kindlyyours.blogspot.com.au/2015/10/simons-town-southern-cape-south-africa.html

Stollenbosch and Franschhoek - Cape Province, South Africa

Very well behaved schoolboys...and only the teacher has the sole umbrella.

Around 50 kilometres north-east of Cape Town,  there are vine yards, encircling mountains, bustling night clubs, historical sites and good food - interesting considerations for a weekend getaway.  There is no ocean but only inland delights, including the national flower of South Africa, barista coffee, picnic grounds and a university town.  The private Bridge House School is available for boarding.   In 1999, Stollenbosch University designed and manufactured the first micro satellite in Africa, SUNSAT.   The 25000 students at this higher education institution are known as "maties".

Vines were first planted in the Stollenbosch area in 1679 and are today strong in the terrior tradition of reds like Shiraz, Merlot, Pilotage and Carbenet Sauvignon.   Like Simon's Town, Stollenbosch is named after former Governor Simon van der Stel.   The River Eerste runs beside this charming hub, which has wonderful examples of Cape Dutch architecture and culture.   The Afrikaans language is still used extensively here.

Signs of spring on wet morning - along the road to Stollenbosch.

There is a quaint shop to drop by at the end of Drop Street in Stollenbosch - Oom Samie se Winkel, which provides lollies, curios, wines, antiques and jams.  The name in Afrikaans language simply means Unlce Samie's shop.   There are four heritage places to consider visiting as well - the Powder House, the Fick House, the Seminary and the Museum.

Otherwise, every Saturday, there is the Slowfood Markets at the corner of Bosmans and Distillery Roads.  Restaurants to check out include the Apprentice, at Adringa Road and which serves as a training restaurant for the Institute of Culinary Arts; Beads Restaurant in the old Devonshire House; Schoon De Companje bakery and cafe in the Oude Bank Building; and Basic Bistro at 31 Church Street and serves international cuisine.   Fabio's nearby at 21 Church Street serves Nespresso coffee blends.   The Warwick Wine Estate is located outside town.

Historical centre of Stollenbosch  - understand classic beauties.

View from a window in Franschhoek or the French Corner -  Bastille Day celebrations have been held here since 1994 in a fascinating corner of European culture in South Africa.  Cape Dutch farm houses and architecture are fascinating to me and they can be found in this region.  I did miss boarding the Franschhoek Wine Tram trains here though.

Nelson Mendela walked free from a 27 year imprisonment  on 11 February 1990 at this site - and I was watching glued to the screen on television in Sydney Australia.   Although Mendala was mostly incarcerated on Robben Island, a ferry's ride from Cape Town, world media focused on the moments he came out from Pollsmoor Prison.  Within a few years, apartheid rule stopped, with the Noble Peace Prize jointly awarded to F.W. de Klerk  and Mendela for this momentous political development.

Supporting the Huguenot Monument is a Museum with large pleasant grounds to commemorate this historical settlement of  French Protestants who escaped religious persecution by fleeing to another continent and successfully re-established their cultural base.

Nearby Franschhoek Valley was founded by Huguenot settlers and specialise more in vineyard production of whites like Semillion and Chardonnay.    Originally a place for roaming elephants, this region was developed by these European migrants.   The land was potent for cultivation, steam trains were introduced, together with an intense work ethic.

It may have been a rainy day but this added to the old world charm and elegance of Stollenbosch.

I enjoyed this unique peanut flavoured snack for morning tea  - The Open Kitchen - with my cuppa.

The Open Kitchen caught my attention because of one offering - the Billtong Eggs Benedict.  This is available the whole day long, with other options in beef Trinchado pies, oxtail and butter bean.  I felt like being invited to a dear mate's home and kitchen.  There are also books placed around for customers to browse or read.   My recollection on walking in is that of the aroma of coffee and breads, plus a homely feel.

The Open Kitchen is located at 35 Plein Street at the Cuthberts Building, Stollenbosch.

Telephone: + 2721 8633 5653

Opening hours every week day from 7am to 5pm and on Saturdays form 8am to 3pm.

The bakery, cafe, deli  and barista scene - The Open Kitchen.

Welcome warm snacks at The Open Kitchen at Plein Street, Stollenbosch.

Buildings in the centre of Stollenbosch are solid, have architectural presence and a cultural feel.

Fresh upmarket produce for a hub with a university, surrounding country lifestyle and an agricultural base.

Friendly retailer inside the Markets in the town centre of Stollenbosch.

Aromas and presentation attracted me to this bakery delight.

Simon's Town, Southern Cape - South Africa

Most major conurbations in the world has a hinterland, valley or coast nearby, for which its residents can seek escape from modern urbane life.   For the people of Cape Town, it is the coast down south or getting into north-west into vineyards and more rural greenery.  

I had the privilege of discovering Simon Town's two months ago, a delightful enclave with a calm sky blue bay and several interesting activities to dwell in - lunching, strolling on board walks, immersing in the village atmosphere and checking out tourist moments.  False Bay provides pretty vistas and views, the Table Mountain National Park rises behind and the place says lifestyle through and through.  Houses nestle up on the hills and the hint of coming warm months expressed itself in clear blue skies.

SAN run on the way to Simon's Town.

Drawings for visitors, with the bright colours of the Rainbow Nation.

There are slopes to climb if one goes inland, but sticking to shore, we found a perfect place to stroll whilst listening to the sea nearby.  The town reminds me of a movie set from days gone by.   The unique frontages of buildings, especially along the main street, echoes of another era.  The souvenir sellers are friendly and speak English.  

There is a distinguished looking Man's Best Friend memorialised in a place of honour in 1985 in the centre of Simon's Town  -  "Just Nuisance".   A Great Dane, Just Nuisance served officially with the British Royal Navy from 1939 to 1944, during the turbulent years of World War 2.   This four legged Able Seaman was much loved by those who knew him and is buried in the hills behind Simon's Town itself.  Just Nuisance loved to rest on the gangplank and did his duty much and well for country and community.  he was actually prompted from Ordinary Seaman to Able Seaman.  The Royal Navy rescued him after there was  threat to put him down for boarding trains often and not paying the fare.  Despite the honour provided Just Nuisance, he never went to sea but accompanied sailors on shore when they returned.

Just Nuisance but what a mate!

Calm bay on the way to the African penguin colony at Boulder Beach.

Simon's Town also currently hosts the largest South African Naval (SAN) Base.  Our coach passed by a group of sailors having their daily run along the coast, with some heftily built guys of both African and European backgrounds.   Starting as a modest dock yard established by the Dutch  East India Company in  1743, the site houses training facilities for frigates and battleships, besides having all combat units.  The other large SAN base is at Durban on the Republic's Indian Ocean coast.   The base was handed over by the British Royal Navy to South Africa through eh Simonstown Agreement signed in 1955.

Before lunch time, beside a placid harbour.

A person who takes initiative and pride in doing business.

Simon's Town has a Museum which was set up in 1977, by a group of volunteers calling themselves, interestingly,  the MOTHs (the Memorable Order of Tin Hats).  It is housed in heritage building called the Residency and was used as a winter residence of former Governors of the Dutch East India Company.  The Museum clovers the periods from the Dutch East India Company, through the First and Second British Occupations and onwards to the Apartheid Era.

Euro architecture, a relaxing outlook and with a mountain hovering over the town.

Seafood and curry - what is there more for me to ask?

Forced removals of residents under the Apartheid era proved to be perhaps the darkest period for Simon Town's recent past.   This enforcement of the Group Area Act devastated the community.   There is a rich historical tapestry that the Simon's Town area has witnessed, from pre-colonial days and its African roots to the present.

The Dutch influence in design of dwellings ( above and below) in the historical centre of Simon's Town.

Simon's Town is also open the world yacht cruising map.  The nearby False Bay Marina has 220 berths.  Cafes and restaurants to consider trying include  the Saveur Restaurant, The Black Marlin, Bertha's, Salty Sea Dog's Cafe and the Boulder's Beach Restaurant.    Eco tours for shark enthusiasts like at Smitswinkel Bay nearer  Cape Point are also available.

Fishing is still carried out nearby, providing leisure and fresh catches to the residents and tourists.

Beyond the immediate vicinity of the plaza of Simon's Town near the harbour, one can also visit Martello's Tower, which was restored and historically served to ward off potential French and Dutch attacks against the Brits, who annexed the Cape province from the Dutch.  The tower has served as a navigational beacon for shipping in the especially treacherous waters around the nearby Cape of Good Hope.

Carvings, colour and captivation.

Ostrich eggs are polished and painted as attractive souvenirs.

Simon's Town is now seen as a suburb of the greater Cape Town region.  Apart from driving, one can also consider talking the train from central Cape Town city past False Bay to reach this place.  Simon's Town Railway Station is the southern terminus of the suburban rail network.  The harbour at Simon's Town has a human built breakwater, so much reminding me of Wollongong Harbour in New South Wales.  Named after Simon van der Stel, a past governor of the Cape Colony, it gave me a memorable impression of the Cape Province.  It has a rich history and will play a significant part in the future of the Republic.  Simon's Town is also one of the few north facing coastal hubs in the Republic and so provides a benign place to gather in the southern atmosphere winter.