What to buy in Penang Malaysia

What do I at times try to get in Penang to bring back to Oz?

1.  Kaya - egg based and  coconut spread for toasts at breakfast time.  You can have the choice of commercially made jars or vacuum sealed packets - or home made can be best or organic, but not allowed into Aus.

2.   Iconic biscuits baked in the Fujian and Cantonese traditions, a carry over of immigrants to Penang.  These range from Hiong Pnieh (aromatic ones utilising caramel inside and textured outside layers) to Beh Tau Saw and Loh Por Peng (literally meaning wife's biscuits).

3.   Nutmeg  or Mace seed oil is known for application on the body to relieve various ailments. Myristica Fragans is the Latin name for this captivating tropical fruit.

Penang has a plethora of nutmeg plantations first cultivated under the British colonial period. The inside of a freshly plucked nutmeg reveals a seed with bright red coverings at the centre.  

The bite on a fresh nutmeg can be stimulating on the palate. It is used to enhance ice creams and is one of the several spices in making Masala.

Nutmeg slices are marinated and preserved for snacks, but the most useful by product is its extracted seed oil, utilised for mitigating against indigestion, promoting anti inflammation, improving blood circulation and helping reduce stress 

4.   Sesame seed oil, practically better in little sachets or in glass bottles.  Only use such oil over a steamed chicken when you are ready to eat.

5.   Craft work reflecting the Straits Chinese lifestyles.  They can be dainty carry snack trays, beaded shoes, wardrobes or as accesorries - but such items are getting costly, rare and becoming precious.

6.   Dried salted fish packed clean under a commercial label - the kiam hoo, used in small portions cleverly to give a kick of a flavour in various culinary cooking styles including Malay, Straits Chinese, Indian and Eurasian.

7.   Samahan Herbal Tea packets for an Ayurvedic solution to stop cold afflictions.

8.   Durian cakes or Dodol, packed with flavour from the thorny green football sized fruit

- but it can be an acquired taste

popular in south east Asia.

9.   Grounded spices used to make curry powder sealed in commercial label packets - vital in seafood and meat dishes.

10.  Bottled sauce specifically to use in stir frying the famous Penang Char Koay Teow.

11.  Selangor Pewter creations, the value of which has spiked tremendously since the 1980s.

12.   Dried shrimps with a commercial label.

#yongkevthoughts

And When Being Back in Penang

  

The land jutting out in the city centre comes to view with a hundred details.

 There is a mixture of architectural styles. What I like most of all are the Victorian styled terrace shophouses, with louvred windows, strong supporting columns, the covered five foot ways and the coloured tiles of the roofs.

Welcome back to George Town, and you can most likely see it first from the air as your air craft is landing.   

Sited on the north-eastern corner of an island smaller than Singapore, with a geographical feature of an island shaped like a tortoise and named after the areca nut palm.   The settlement has had humbled beginnings, with this cape partly cleared of the jungle by the cannon shooting of coins to help accelerate clearing of the jungle.  

The conurbation that developed is a testament to the days of monsoon winds powering sails, of adventurers from another side of the Earth and of trading and the search for spices driving schemes, financial power and politics across various cultures.

George Town, on Penang Island, thrived on the exchange of goods and produce that were sourced nearby or in exchange as an entrepôt facilitation between China, the South-east Asian isles, India, the Middle East and Europe.   The original engine of growth can be seen in the dry goods provisions, porcelain displays and crafts stocked in shops and markets full of character located in what UNESCO has deemed to be a world heritage quarter.

The streets laid out by Captain Francis Light and his able administrators are still there, luring backpackers, youthful tourists and well heeled groups cycling or walking on them or seated on pedalled rickshaws.  The walls of buildings tell a thousand stories, many of them faded and jaded, but there are also others well maintained with fresh paint or with street murals.

There can be several things to do during a short stay, but having a foodie trail seems to dominate.  Penangites are dominantly Hokkien, with food, cultural practices and traditions from the southern Chinese province of Fujian.  They, along with others from a China in dynastic turmoil, migrated since the 1800s for opportunity and risk to make a better life.

The street food from these Hokkiens include Lobak meat and veg rolls, oyster omelettes or Orh Chien, Char Koay Teow, Char Kueh Kak ( savoury radish cake) and prawn stock flavoured noodles ( Penang Hokkien Mee).  Add the Cantonese migrants who brought along their roast meat styles, Chow Hor Fun ( stir fried broad rice noodles oozing with wok heat), yum cha dumplings and claypot rice with Lap Cheong cured sausages.

People snack several times from food courts and street stalls a day and night here, but the servings are small, varied and so appetising anyone easily joins into this regime.  

Penang had fusion a long time ago.  The hybrid between East and West can be observed in the way of dress, eating habits, creative dishes and social attitudes.   The ability to obtain ingredients from various parts of the world is emphasised in what they have as day to day food.  You can have American styled burgers, Japanese ramen, South Indian banana leaf rice, English fish and chips, Italian pasta and pizza, Aussie beer, Tandoori chicken, German frankfurters, Chinese hotpot, Thai stir fries, Eurasian Sugee cakes, Straits Chinese delicacies, Vietnamese spring rolls, Malay Rendang and bacon on toast without any problems at all - and the only advice is to avoid the midday sun.

The island is essentially compact, with most of her population packed on to its eastern side.  To her west, quality durians have been cultivated on hilly slopes that look out to where the Andaman Sea meets the Straits of Malacca.

Penang's northern shores host a winding and mostly narrow road that stretches from Tanjung Tokong ( Temple Cape) to Teluk Bahang ( Bay of Heat).   Residences cling on to hill sides and intersperse with contemporary architecture hotels and resorts.

Food stalls, souvenir outlets and night clubs congregate at Batu Ferringhi ( Rock of Foreigners) that heralded the hype beach scene in South East Asia from the 1970s.

In the middle of this Pearl of the Orient stand out two landmarks that have withstood the test of time.  The Kek Lok Si ( Temple of Ultimate Happiness) exemplifies the best of Buddhist architecture with Thai, Burmese and Chinese influences - and has a giant statute of the Goddess of Mercy Guan Yin.  The beautifully lit up KLS can be best experienced during the 15 days and nights of the Chinese New Year festival.

Penang Hill began earnest existence as a British colonial hill station, replete with bungalows that were built from around a hundred and more years ago.   The views of Penang Island and the surrounding mainland of the Malayan Peninsular are inspiring anytime,  but more so at sunrise and sunset.

What are the downsides of contemporary Penang? 

The lack of public transport infrastructure is so obvious to residents or visitors alike.
The population has increased several fold but many of the roads remain as narrow and unchanged as when I grew up there.   Vehicle numbers have spiked beyond the ability of current roads to cater to them.

With two landmark Penang Bridges connecting the rest of the peninsular Malaysia to this small island,  long weekends and festive periods result in congestion, crowding and chagrin for the island's residents.  Traffic jams have caused a normally 30 minute car ride to Penang's Airport from the UNESCO Heritage Quarter of George Town into an uncertain delay and stress for many airline passengers.

High rise residential reality of the 2020s signals a change from single storey accommodation of the mid 20th century.
The cooks who are behind Penang's well known and unique street food are no longer the Chinese, Malays and Indians but these days can be from Myanmar, Cambodia, Indonesia and Vietnam.  French or Italian culinary are so protective of their strict traditions, but are Penangites equally so?

What business or industrial sector will make Penang's future?  The making of chips once made Penang famous as "Silicon Island" throughout the IT world.

Tourism revenues continue at its pace, with more investment in new hotels in the past few years.  Is medical tourism still growing, with costs cheaper than Singapore but more expensive than Thailand?

In the socio-political landscape of the Federation of Malaysia, Penang is one of the few hubs with a Chinese demographic (others can be the Klang Valley in Selangor, Ipoh and Taiping in Perak, Kuching and Sibu in Sarawak and the Johor Baru region next to Singapore).
How can present Penangites and their diaspora living overseas do effectively to better Penang's future in economic 
growth in a diverse society?

The big question remains, what can Penang do to differentiate herself from her competitors?

#yongkevthoughts

Penang Char Koay Teow - Fallacies, Mislabels and Essentials

Sydney can be lovely, but I do miss authentic Penang Char Koay Teow, which I must emphasise is a Hokkien or Fujian or Chiuzhou street food delight and not a Straits Chinese or Nyonya dish.CKT, or literally stir fried rice noodles, has humble origins, prepared only when you are ready to eat and makes use of the experience and skills of the ladle stirrer, cooked on a well fortified metal contraption that has been seasoned and heated through the years.  Ideally, charcoal fire is best to bring out the taste and texture of this dish.Those rice noodles prepared several hours ago and served from a hot plate at food courts or even some so called restaurants, do not qualify to be called Penang CKT.Whether you use more of dark soy sauce, or the lighter version, can be due to personal preference, but for Penangites, we do not serve the CKT looking well dosed with dark soy sauce, like in Singapore and Johor, where they have a dish called Orr Koay Teow.To deserve to be called Penang CKT, the following must be observed.The stir fry narrow rice noodles have a caramelised bite to them.Dark soy sauce does not permeate the dish, but oyster and light soy sauces are used with a finesse.There is an appetising  sensation of wok heat when the dish is served.The strength of chillies or chilli paste used do not over whelm the essential taste of this dish.Even for basic versions found in Penang, there are Chinese chives, small slices of Lap Cheong or Cantonese sausage, several small prawns, bean sprouts, shucked cockles, thin fish cake slices and scrambled eggs.Do not fall however for the hype of fancy seafood like a few scallops or king prawns thrown into the mix.Oh yes, the outcome of eggs well stirred with the rice noodles in a quality Penang CKT is most significant.   Whether the dish served to you makes the grade depends on the mastery of how the chef combines the right texture of scrambled eggs with the optimal bite of the rice noodles.Hen eggs will do and duck eggs can be used for other recipes.There is no need to have flourish by the chef dancing around his or her wok, but another test is the aroma swelling up in your nostrils even before when the dish is ready.   You can literally follow your nose to the right coffee shop with a yummy Penang CKT on the island.The source of the flavour or aroma may not be too encouraging for the fastidiously health conscious.  It is the basic pork lard bits that set the tone for the caramelisation of a yummy Penang CKT dish  -  think of Prosciutto strips used to get the Italian dish going.   Pork is considered non- Kosher or Haram and so you may come across non pork lard versions especially in Muslim majority Malaysia.You can get yummy versions in Penang from an equivalent range of Aud 2 to 4 per serve, cheaper than a cup of barista made coffee.In comfy hotel surroundings with attentive staff, you can have yourPenang Char Koay Teow in Malaysia for an average price of Aud 12 per plate.In Australian capital cities, there can be hype in the pricing and making of street food like Penang CKT.   In Canberra, I have come across a basic version priced at Aud 23, and a joint in Haymarket, Sydney offers the dish for as high as Aud 33 per plate with some King Prawns.Penang CKT is recognised as an iconic dish of the island.It is intertwined with childhood memories, comforting moments and a unique persona.   It can be breakfast, supper or lunch.  It is the little reward after a long day's work, over coming a challenge or just an excuse to gather with family or mates.It is not the vehicle to drive excessive profit margins, even if I appreciate the costs of rental and labour in today's food retail.  Never fall for Penang CKT sellers who charge more for adding in seafood or so called market expensive ingredients.If the plate served to you consists of limp noodles, looks so dark and is obviously not made fresh five minutes ago, reject it immediately, as it is not Penang CKT.

Summer Garden Food Bistro Penang

Salted fish curry with veg and Tofu puffs.

Jee Hoo Char - that veg and cuttle fish combination that is easy to eat but more challenging to make.

Prawns marinated in tamarind juice before deep frying.

Summer Garden is located at 2 Lorong Lembah Permai 3, at the corner with the Vale of Tempe Road, Tanjung Bungah, Penang island.
Opening hours are from 11am to 11pm every day.
Contact   +604 890 0977

The restaurant offers a bar and a varied menu, including Japanese, Western and Straits Chinese dishes.

Penang Island - Outside George Town

The making of the Kueh Kapek  - traditional craft in preparing one of Penang's most liked festive snacks.

The winding and narrow road past the beaches did not seem to be so potentially treacherous now.  However, I could still smell, in my mind, the diesel belching form the Hin Bus Company coach of old, with the driver turning his steering wheel non-chalantly as scenery whizzed by of forested slopes and solid rocks half submerged in the calm sea side below.   That was many years gone by.  Today, in a more stable automobile, we could see residential houses on the deforested hills, although the seaside looked quiet as usual.   


We were outside the metropolitan limits of George Town on Penang Island.  I know of more mates moving out here on the island's north-eastern corner from its southern suburbs.   The beach resorts at Foreigner's Rock or Portuguese Rock look dated, the significant impact of unforgiving tropical weather showing as mould on its outer walls.   Several generations of Europeans, Japanese and Aussies - to name a few - had taken the ritual of lying on the sand and deck chairs in such surrounds.   I recall young blue eyed and blonde haired couples walking in a romanticised sunset below the casuarina trees.

Striking wall mural, one that emphasises village livelihood in the regional hub of Balik Pulau, on the western side of Penang Island.

So now there are some new sea water activities -  Escape - to feed the abilties and daring of newer generations, apart from all those tired and tried parasailing and rafting recreational options.   I wondered as to what the quality of those waters are these days.  Cruise ships can be seen on the horizon, but the local fishermen's boats do still hang around and are being used, albeit less and less.     The Penang Channel between Butterworth and Weld Quay ports on the island is surely and gradually silting up  - and the Government is helping accelerate this by making more land reclamations accordingly.

We stopped at a durian stall round a bend on the round island road and I did not regret this.

   Having eaten mostly frozen durians from Thailand for the past 20 years, it was a rare treat to dive into the fresh custard like flesh of the opened fruit.   A boisterous and engaging lady  said this was an off season harvest.   The durian is a tricky option - you either love it or not, there is no assurance of the contents of this football sized King of Fruits and there are so many breed varieties these days.   They say Malaysian grown durians are much more rewarding in taste and texture than those form Thailand, but they are also priced more.

The hills of central island grace the edge of the Kek Lok Si Temple complex in Air Itam.

People from George Town may still view Balik Pulau (literally the "Back of the Island") as a remote hideaway, but when I am used to Australian distances in travel, this town is much of a pleasure to me, retaining some of the rustic lifestyle and much of its charm.   


There is a central area in this former village, where the main road towards Air Itam Village (in the centre of Penang Island) and  another heading south-east going towards the Airport, merge.    Here you find the markets, huge wall murals, the unique Penang laksa ( available in both tamarind juice and creamy coconut milk versions) and more.    I had omitted to call a friend from Queensland who hailed from here and she found out from Facebook that I had visited her home base.

Going down the start of the world's steepest funicular railway at Penang Hill.    Doppelmayr-Garaventa of Switzerland built these cabins,as it did for the Rapid Transit of San Francisco Bay and the Liner Transit of Las Vegas.

Penang Hill is, and has been always, close to my heart.   I put it on par with my experiences on my first really exotic tropical island, Phuket, in southern Thailand.  As we sat on an electric buggy driven by an Indian guy,  my memories rose up and all those adolescent days spent up this hill station filled my inner joy.   The gangling class mates  and I all growing up, with misty evenings on the patio of a bungalow, or walking amongst the monkey cups and cool shade of hill top flora.   There were moments of discovery, bonding, laughter, self managed cooking and chatting late into the night.  Guitar strumming filled the air whilst we looked at the city below which began to show their man made lights.....something akin to what I can do these days on top of Mount Keira looking out over the Wollongong coast.


I recalled how we dragged food and other supplies from down town up to various Penang Hill bungalows.    In those days, the slower speed funicular train (still Swiss made)  did stop for passengers, by prior arrangement, at footpaths and lanes leading nearest to your bungalow of stay.   There were those cooks and staff resident in those houses, mostly of Hainan descent.  I can still see those pantry shelves, wardrobe doors and bed frames, always made of wood, suggesting of ghost infested stories and cool temperature evenings.  

Detail for tall pillar supporting roof of the pavilion honouring the Goddess of Mercy.

There was a group of wide eyed and eager young men, hailing from Europe and Brazil, who were with us on same carriage of the funicular train.   One of them said visiting Penang Hill was on the bucket travel list for them.  We saw them again at the nearby significant and huge temple complex built on the foothills  - Kek Lok Si, or the Temple of Supreme Bliss.   This complex is smaller than Angkor Wat in Cambodia but is a unique institution and place to visit in south-east Asia.  It was developed over forty years from 1890.


Visitors are left behind with impressions of unique archways, pagodas, ambient halls, shrines and gardens.    A ninety-nine foot bronze representation of the Goddess of Mercy (Kuan Im) was completed in 2002 and is located just above the main temple area.   A pavilion was built as well supported by sixteen columns.  The Goddess therefore overlooks George Town and Penang island, looking towards the peninsular mainland.


The other captivating feature of the Kek Lok Si is a seven storey pagoda - the Ban Po Thar or Ten Thousand Buddhas.   If you study this pagoda carefully, you can see that the octagonal base has Chinese features, the middle portion is Thai and the spiral dome has Burmese architectural characteristics.  The foundations for this pagoda was laid by the Thai King Rama VI.     I recall a movie or two  had location shooting in this complex when I was growing up in Penang.   George Town itself had streets transformed for the shooting of movies such as "Beyond Rangoon" and "Anna and the King".    Penang Hill was selected to represent Simla in northern India in the mid 20th century for the UK television series "Indian Summers".
 

To me, one of the best moments was looking over the ramparts near the Pavilion of the Goddess of Mercy, taking in the sea breeze and soaking in the views from the hills to the Penang Channel.

Lemak Laksa, Thai influenced and with more coconut milk than tamarind juice.Can be a healthy dish as it contains shredded fish, herbs and spices.

So there you have it, it was a wonderful experience for me re-visiting some of the highlighted places outside the city centre.   It takes about a day and you are transported from suburbs to seaside, hills and forests, before you return to a hill station and a cultural icon to wind up the day.   We did not stop at the Spice Plantations, useful for viewing in person a collection of the main spice and tropical herb plants in the world.  Nor did we take the bush walking trail past forest, swamps and lagoon to have a taste of an equatorial island landscape.   


During the durian harvesting season (June and early July in Penang), many visitors participate in the durian trail, stopping by at plantations and eating a variety of durian types and hybrids.    The role of nutmegs has not always been emphasised in the development of Penang commerce  - and you need not go to the Caribbean to view such trees.    The name of the island itself is based on the betel nut, though christened by the British colonists as the Prince of Wales Island.

Durian fruit off season at a roadside stall on the way to Balik Pulau.

George Town Culinary Delights

Char Koay Teow at the corner of Penang Road and Keng Kwee Avenue  -  Joo Hooi coffee shop.

When you have only a few days to sample the culinary delights of  Penang,  you know you are going to be snacking every few hours, throughout the day and night.  Food places open late into supper time, some only do business in the morning and yet others start serving in the afternoon.  If you are fortunate to be able to drop by places for home cooking, that is even better.   The best mindset for a foodie journey here is with an open mind, to share the dishes discovered and to drink lots of water.

Several types of curry to accompany your Nasi Kandar - Chulia Street.



Being located at the northern end of the Malacca Straits, Penang is bound to offer many spices, herbs and a diversity of cooking styles to you.   An important consideration is whether your stomach can weather all this variety.    The earnest would go seek out the original best for each dish but practical reality may not permit that.  I suggest to just go with the flow wherever you are in George Town, for you are bound to come across trying something unplanned, unexpected and unthought of.

Crunchies, hard boiled egg, fresh lettuce, noodles and potato slices entice you to the South Indian Mee Rebus.



Be mindful of how much carbohydrates, sugar, deep fried stuff and chillies you are accumulating along the way.    Compare this with how much sitting and walking you are doing per day.   


The art of participating and watching can be fun as well  - we can observe what the people at other tables are eating,  we can note how the vendors prepare their specialities and we can share a variety of things on our own table together.    Several dishes are stir fried to order, others have ingredients all sorted out before being poured with the gravy or soup.

Servings of  Bee Kueh Moy at the Maple Palace Restaurant, Northam  Road.

The glutinous black coloured rice is mixed with coconut milk, a sprinkling of sugar and salt.



If you are not at a restaurant, but in a hawker centre, Kopi TIam or on the roadside waiting beside the hawker,  it is useful to have small coin change.  There are still paper currency one Ringgit notes, but nothing pleases a food seller in this scenario as having the  exact change.  

Pie Tee with chilli dip at Aunty Gaik Lian's, Bishop Street.

When plunking down at a table in a Kopi Tiam, it is imperative to order drinks, hot or cold, from the coffee shop operator.   It can get pretty crowded in certain coffee shops to get a seat, so one has to be fast acting and hawk eyes in such situations.   You pay only when you receive the food or drinks at your table.     Yes, the vendors still bring the food you ordered to your table, in contrast to many self managed queue and bring your own serves from the counter in many other nations.

Teochew Cendol.
Check out:  https://kindlyyours.blogspot.com.au/2011/03/making-of-cendol-dessert.html

Vehicle parking can get to be a congested affair, so I recommend walking, cycling or using the motor bike in George Town.    Visualise the heritage area as a series of laid out lanes and roads, that they are connected in some way and you are well on the way to conquer foodie street hubs like Carnarvon, Chulia, Kimberley,  Bishop, Beach and Penang.   


Seek refuge in shopping centres when the afternoon sun gets too humid.   Alternate between air-conditioned and street side eating.   The best time is after the sun sets, when the locals come out and when a party atmosphere comes alive.

Vegetable Acar or pickles with a sprinkling of sesame seeds.  Made at the kitchen of Ms. Yong Kooi Chun.

Some of the best food are found in relatively simple spots, whilst others are served in heritage buildings, beside the sea or in contemporary buildings.   I always look forward to reunion lunches at a dear Aunt's place.  


On a recent  visit, I was taken by the family of a close friend to try out the home cooking of an elderly friend of theirs, an ex-teacher who carries an interesting conversation  and who still shows her good culinary skills.   I also found there is a coffee shop at the corner of Rangoon and Macalister Roads that hosts both Muslim and Chinese lunch dishes.  Penang locals also have fondness to gather at the ten seater round table, where Chinese customary practice also come into play.

The making of Ban Chien Kueh at Pulau Tikus.

And now we address the question of the all essential drink - why do you just stick to that faceless, bland spring water, as most travellers do?    As long as you know drinks have been boiled   -  and the water supply is pretty safe in Penang -  you can have no qualms for risking the condition known as Delhi belly.    Cold desserts and mixes are another matter all together, unless you are in a bar or restaurant.  Make the practical choice and use your own judgement.  George Town is a modern metropolis, although critics may not think so with street side eating.  There are bottled drinks of all sorts from cold fridges, ranging from herbal teas, American labels and own made concoctions.   


In a Kopi Tiam, the common drinks you can see ordered are Kopi Orh Peng (iced black coffee); Barley Peng  (cold barley drink);   nutmeg juice;  hot beverages like Horlicks, Milo and local coffee blends; lime juice;  orange juice; Teh Peng ( tea with ice cubes); and more.

Traditional fish curry Straits Chinese style or Ikan Tumis from Ms. Ung.

When you come across a crowd, or people eagerly lining up, even when the weather is inclement,you can be sure they are on to a good thing.   Comparable to Singaporeans, Penangites love to check out the latest sensation, the hype and the rumour of tasty things.   I am reminded of the rush to stock up on packets of White Penang Curry Mee a few years ago.

A medley of roasts.

They are still gathering around stalls like the Char Koay Teow along Siam Road (from afternoons only) and the Cendol stall at the corner of Keng Kwee Street and Penang Road.
One afternoon Sonny drove past the Malay curry food stall in Tanjung Bungah, near the Mar Vista apartments.   There is an implied sense of the robust need by the Chinese community to try any yummy food, crossing inter-racial lines and culinary traditions.  Foodies now transverse the island, west, south or north, to check out the new and persistently good food.

The dough for the Ang Ku or Red Tortoise cakes from Ms. Teoh Sian Kin.

What about the standards found in hotel buffets and breakfast options?   For the devotee in foodie land, there is a difference in the authenticity of the cooking skills and outcomes of several street food items.   Somehow, the outcomes of the dish often miss an ingredient, a cooking technique and the oomph of street cooks.  


However, such opportunities to partake food in a Penang hotel cannot be totally dismissed all together.   They do provide a sampling opportunity of coming across a whole variety in one spot.   If you do like some specific dishes, then it is time you make the effort to chase the good ones out there, away from the hotel environment.

You come across food stalls like this, when walking along covered five foot ways in the heritage quarter of George Town. 

Many of Penang's iconic dishes involve much on the input and attitude of the cook and preparer.    The exact formula, measured quantity and precise recipe does not work for such dishes.   The most tasty food in Penang result from years of experience, a secret technique or tip that makes the difference and the mood of the cook.   Look at whether your targeted stall holder is smiling or reasonably okay on the day you visit.  Are the helpers also in a reasonable mood?    



Servings can be smaller than what most Americans or Australians are used to.   Use this to your advantage, for you are only meant to sample this diversity of food.    Yes, beer can be relied upon to be available in the coffee shops. restaurants obviously offer wines and hard liquors.    Do try to match your drink with the food, whether the latter is plain, zesty, spicy or neutral.

The younger generation has taken over this well known southern Chinese roast meat outlet of Sin Nam Huat.

It is always on balance to engage street sellers with some conversation.  Penangites have the ability to speak in more languages than the average person.There are various dialects within the Chinese community and mandarin has been most popular for many years now.   Most of the Indians hail from the south of the sub-continent, with Tamil and Hindi conversations prominent.    English remains perhaps the Lingua Franca understood by all races, thanks to previous colonisation by the Brits.   Malay is the National Language in Malaysia.   


A visitor may soon observe the mix up of words from different languages in one sentence articulated by most Penangites.     There is often a soft accent, some times bordering to a sing song tone, especially noticeable to foreigners.    Do enjoy the difference and there is an air of informality about Penang, which adds to the enjoyment of trying out its various culinary offerings.

Fish curry sure to lift the appetite and aroma for diners.

For those who long for food outside the Malaysian demographic mould, there are also several outlets in Korean,  Japanese, Thai and Euro cooking traditions.    Walking around shopping centres like Queensbay, Gurney and Straits Quay, you can come across franchised and  boutique eating restaurants.   The Suffolk House offers fine dining, together with an experience of high tea, colonial style, in the restored and heritage home of Captain Francis Light.    


The culinary experience in Penang can be said to range from grassroots to cosmopolitan, from take away to relaxing, from sweating to warm ambiance, from gatherings of friends to business occasions.   For me, nothing is like sampling food prepared fresh in front of you, where you can speak to the preparer and watch the fascinating process of a dish coming out to be served in front of your eyes and other senses.

Lobster with Cantonese noodles is a festive dish at the CRC Restaurant.

Penang food may have risks of being a lost art, but it is the living culture reflected in them that underlies their value and experience.   Skills may not be passed on from the older generation, the young may not pound with the mortar and pestle anymore and talents may have moved on with significant emigration. 


Originators of food must not delegate the key cooking stage to others due to economics, cost of operating a business and sheer lack of labour.   UNESCO has blanketed a consciousness of heritage, tradition and continuity to many aspects of the George Town character, not least of all is the daily regime and life style of its residents.   The people of Penang must embrace this responsibility and passion from the past to propel to the future. 

Chicken pie as made by Hainanese cooks for the colonial era in the 20th century - this one is from Yeng Keng Hotel, Chulia Street.

George Town - Barista Coffee

The earth oven used for toasting bagels at the Mug Shot Cafe, located at 302 Chulia Street.





There are more than just yummy street food, innovative wall murals and Victorian age architecture in the UNESCO Heritage quarter of George Town on Penang Island.The palate needs sustenance after walking around for half a day past quaint lanes, busy markets and busy streets.   

For a coffee devotee, you would have tried the local versions of Teh Tarik, Kopi-O and white coffee.   Australian visitors would resist going into Starbucks but may sample the cafes run by Hudson's from Perth or the Coffee Bean franchise chain shops at shopping centres.......but what about real barista made unique coffee blend cuppas?

Sighted in the UNESCO Heritage Quarter of George Town, Penang Island - Wheeler's Coffee.

There are cafes and cafes in Penang and one cannot possibly have even the best of it all on one visit to the island.     There are unique non-coffee competitors as well - Ais Kacang, Cendol, Rosewater syrup,  cooling Cantonese herbal drinks, barley drinks and more.    So how do you size up and conquer the barista coffees available in George Town?   


One technique is to go by location.  There are several streets you want to walk by to explore.  Use the cuppa to break the regime and perk up when required.   Coffees go with a meal and are great to counter balance the variety of street foods available in Penang.    Having a shot at a cafe seems to be the preferred way to get to chat and relax after hours,e especially at night, in Malaysia.  Unlike hipster espresso outlets in Australia, which close mostly by 3pm, here in George Town, you have extra hours to check out more cafes.

Twelve Cups at corner of Bishop and Beach Streets.  12, Whiteaways Arcade.

The strength, texture and flavour of the ubiquitous coffee blends can be your guide to chalking up your visits to George Town cafes.  For this, you have to do homework even before hitting the road.   Social media,  internet, talking to real people.....all these helps.

Having said all this, may we be reminded that George Town is a very navigable, friendly and rather small sized area to conquer.    Do not be the eager early riser though, for most cafes open later than what you are used to perhaps in Western countries and cities.   Retail business opens late till night so do keep in mind a different commercial culture.

The gates were closed on the morning after the big festive eve of the Birthday of the Jade Emperor of Heaven.The V Cafe at Sekeping Victoria with an address of 164 A and B, Victoria Street.

The offerings of creative breakfasts, cakes and brunch can figure prominently in your coverage of George Town cafes.  For example, pancakes and Japanese stuff are the surprise at Gudang Cafe, located at 5 Armenian Street Ghat.    


At China House, founded by a Kiwi couple, its Kopi C Cafe starts with fifty varieties of cakes made by the Beach Street Bakery;  China House, interesting enough, has two entrances/exits, one at 183-B Victoria Street and another at 153-155 Beach Street.  You not only can listen to live music at China House, but play Jengka, relax with your sketching skills and also have proper meals there.   There are various sections in the long and deep terrace, a good place to explore for kids, adolescents, families and hipsters.


And we must not forget ambiance, a very broad term which can cover a spectrum of impressions, feel and comfort.   It can be the peel in the wall, the bare ceiling, the types of lighting, the architecture, the odd kitchen equipment or the engagement by the baristas or staff.    


One Monday morning, we found ourselves sitting at a small canteen styled table, cozy by itself, as I found the environment as if visiting an aunt in a George Town styled town vintage terrace house  - only later did I realise the shelves surrounding our table were stocked with wares not related to the coffee business, but part of the model of a cafe and retail outlet.So there you go, you need not just pump out the coffee, you can spread the risks by offering art, clothes, conversation, specialty dishes and more.


Some cafes do look cluttered, but hey then it is supposed to look earthy, realistic and lived in like a home space.    Wooden panels, blackboards, metal interruptions and rustic looks of cafes  in Wollongong are complemented with weaves and crafts of natural materials, heritage icons and stores of grain and beans in George Town.     There seems to be variations of space, several cafes are spacious, most are small and a few even are warehouse sized.   

Gudang has an airy feel, is spacious and is easily reachable when you do the George Town Heritage Walk 9 or cycle or motor bike)

Chairs and other seating options are varied in George Town cafes, from sleek modern to stools, from smallish wooden contraptions to IKEA like foldables. Of course, there are the individuals who park themselves on a regular basis to attend to cyberspace and social media.    How do these cafes cater for them?   


Penang heritage terraces date from  the 19th first half of the 20th century.  Many of the cafes in George Town are housed in romanticised buildings that have aging roof tiles, bare unpainted walls and high ceilings.   When the colonial rent control policy was stopped by the State Government,  many people residing on relatively cheap rents had to relocate, freeing up the heritage buildings for other commercial purposes.  UNESCO came in with a significant declaration of a world heritage site for George Town (co-jointly awarded to Malacca as well) - and the rest is history, with a blooming in developments of hotels, cafes, museums and tourist arrivals (now significantly and increasingly via ship cruises).


Do we cover cafes that are most "Instagrammed", is that a wise choice?  In the end, to hark back to my question as to how best to cover these numerous cafes in George Town, I reckon the best is to just go with the flow.     If we go back to core values, it is the quality and style of the coffee made in front of you that matters most of all.   So to me perhaps the most significant development in the next stage for cafes here is in their surprising offerings.



Appreciation is expressed to Mr. Richard Liew, Mr. Philip Yeoh and a requested unnamed friend in the research, experience and opportunity leading to this blog post.




You may want to check out the other following cafes in George Town:

1.  Secawan 'n' Such at 205 Hutton Lane.


2.   Cafe 55 at 47-55 Stewart Lane.


3.   Pik'Nik Cafe, at 2, Argus Lane15-17 Nagore Road.


4.   Sitigun at 30 Nagore Road.


5.   Macullum Conneisuers at No.1 Macullum Street Ghat.


6.   DCOVA at Logan Heritage, No.4 Bishop Street.


7.   Budan's Brew Coffeebar at 2 Argus Lane.


8.  Bricklin Cafe Bar at  31A Gurdawa Road.


9.  Tavern in the Park, 125 Timah Road, Hin Bus Depot Art Centre.





For your reference:


Avenue -  Lebuh Raya

Close - Solok

Cup - Cawan

Ghat - Gat

Lane - Lorong

One Way - Sehala

Piece - Keping

Road - Jalan

Street - Lebuh