China House, Georgetown - Penang

The place itself was not easy to find, with a facade that is unassuming and not even lit up much on evenings. Yes, China House has two facades, on different streets (Victoria or Beach) as it occupies two large and long lots that stretch between two different roads in Georgetown's old quarter that has been recognised by UNESCO as world heritage.   Both entrances are dark and quiet, but maybe because it is a Monday night when Vivian took me there. The name may suggest a business of fabrics or China heritage souvenirs and artifacts, but it is really a cafe and club with many choices for seating and gatherings, both downstairs and upstairs.  China House not only offers a wine bar ( Japanese  and Scottish single malts are available) besides a barrista operated coffee joint cum bakery with a variety of pastries and cakes (like the pear and ginger upside down cake), but also sit down meals from Aussie-styled breakfast prices at Malaysian Ringgit 30 to lunch options that begin at Malaysian Ringgit 50.  There are fourteen distinctive sub-areas within the two floors of China House.

Vivian and I only had coffee, she chose a flat white whilst I went for a cappuccino. We already had street food of southern Chinese-inspired wanton dumpling egg noodles from a stall along Georgetown's Chulia Street, better known for backpackers, interesting trades, recently upgraded heritage hotels and age-old retail outlets. Chulia Street connects the nightclub hub and nasi kandar and mamak roti stalls of eastern Penang Road to the banking centre of Beach Street and Georgetown's Chinatown.  Nasi kandar, or literally curry rice carried on a pole over shoulders, is  a favourite choice of mine and many who grew up in Peninsular Malaysia - the dish comes from southern India, usually served on a banana leaf and offers rather appetising steamed rice with a variety of curry choices.  It can be consumed anytime, but especially in the evenings or for breakfast.   Mamak roti refers to the light breads offered with a small bowl of light curry sauce, usually vegetarian like dhall (lentil curry).

Back at China House, the coffee blend used had a distinctive aroma and taste, and I was tempted to compare this with the Campos blend available in Sydney and Melbourne.  We sat at a well patronised area near the entrance to Beach Street, with that evening mostly packed with under thirty-somethings and a crowd that reminds you of Starbuck outlets.  Returning recently from Hoi An in central Vietnam, I was struck by the lack of foreign tourists walking along the streets and lanes of the heritage area in Georgetown.
Here at China House that evening, this impression was reinforced.  I understand that going forward, more deep sea passenger cruise ships shall call upon Penang Port and this can only be good news for heritage inspired outlets like China House.

The dinner menu at China House was what captured my attention, with choices like lamb sausages on cous cous, lagsana of duck ragu and a ginger bud infused pesto vegetarian spaghetti.  Bookings are essential on weekend nights.  The interior decor is an eclectic mix of Straits Chinese, modern chic, Thai and mainland Chinese, with a heavy emphasis on wooden panels, embroidered fabric and wall-hung frames.  Groups can lease out indoor and outdoor kitchens for occasions, with a weekly held chefs dinner every Friday night.  What I love best for ambiance is the lit indoor courtyard replete with a burger bar, mango trees and Mississippi mud choc pie. The canteen and bar offers Burmese traditional laksa.  Upstairs on the Victoria Street side is a rental space for workshops, gatherings and parties.  There is also an art gallery corridor and a pop up shop for consideration.  Guests and visitors are always reminded of the long narrow nature of the Straits Chinese houses now providing the venue of  China House.  You can walk to the Khoo Kongsi, Little India and the Weld Quay family jetties from China House.  Look up to the distinctive window frames of the first level of China House when you are standing on the nearby roads.

China House is located at:
153 and 155 Beach Street, Georgetown and
183B Victoria Street, Georgetown
in one connected building.

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