Chapel Street, Toorak and South Yarra - Melbourne Victoria

The art of personalised care as echoed in Toorak/South Yarra.

Adjoining Toorak is the hip Chapel Street, running seemingly for miles across different suburbs, with an eclectic choice of books, craft, clothes, accommodation, art and alternative lifestyle options.  The old Jam Factory now houses a cinema complex and shops, but the charm and thrill is literally the streets into the sun set.  It is not just the Chapel Street precinct, for nearby Prahran, Greville Village and the Windsor Quarter makes this area one of the most exciting that defines Melbourne itself.  A great place to ride your bike, but if you have to catch public transport, there are easy buses and train stations on the Sandringham Line (stations at South Yarra, Windsor and Prahran).  The Exchange, Commercial Road cruise clubs and Burlesque 54 offer the LBGT community a party focus.  Foodies naturally are attracted to the events organised here for the annual Melbourne Food & Wine Festival.
For luxury accommodation, check out the Olsen.  Then check out the nightlife with names like Zhou Zhou, the Emerson, Saigon Sally and the Flamingo.

Urban setting in the arvo.

The Neo-Georgian and Neo-clasical styled mansions and tree linked street of Toorak and South Yarra seem to be in a cocooned and privileged world of their own.  The key word is "south", that is south of the Yarra River and away from the working class precincts of Brunswick, Fitzroy and those that gather from Chinatown to the north. Never mind, some of those suburbs have become more hip and trendy in urban renewal, they cannot challenge the charm, air and feel of hallowed streets with expensive makes of cars, the old rich and what it means to be separate and distinct from the masses, just like in good old England.  James Jackson built the Toorak House in 1849, most probably linked to an indigenous word indicating a black crow or a swamp with growing reeds, reflecting the essential landscape confronting the first settlers in the Melbourne area.  Around a third of there residents here are today engaged in the financial services industry (hello!) and the majority are university educated at the very least.  The iconic Australian Open was held at the Kooyong Tennis Club until 1988, when riot moved to its curet home at Melbourne Park.  Well known personalities, alive or demised,  whose names are linked to Toorak include Andrew Demetriou, Nathan Buckley, Dame Elisabeth Murdoch, Solomon Lew, Charlie McLeod,  Harold Holt (Australian Prime Minister who disappeared when swimming off the Victorian coast), Eddie McGuire, Malcolm Fraser, Sidney Myer and Lindsey Fox.
Interesting enough, the percentage of toddlers and infants in Toorak is the lowest in Melbourne but it has the highest percentage of children attending private schools.

Scallops entree in one of the dining places.

Bistro Thierry, Romeos, Quaff, the Manhattan and Oritas are strewn around in conversation for Euro dining in Toorak Village, Grange Road and Toorak Road.  Accompanying all this fare are florists, optometrists, pet care providers, hair stylists, fitness trainers, fashion boutiques and other services aiming to deliver of the highest order.  There is an interesting bed and breakfast run by the Country Women's Association of Victoria; a Haigh's Chocolates outlet; Laurent Boulangerie & Patisserie; the Hunters & Collectors Emporium; Mercedes Benz Toorak; Egons Cakes; Monkey Bean; the Osozai Japanese Cafe; and the Dihnersaw & His Fionsay.

Chapel Street Melbourne - Unique Cafe in A Garage

Melbourne - Busker

Melbourne Vignettes - Summer 2015

Wall mural and graffiti along small lanes have become an iconic symbol of the Melbourne city landscape.

Early opening for this cafe, so after a long day in the evening - baristas, bars and brunches are innovative in Melbourne.

Southern section of Hardware Lane.

Greek and modern Australian fusion with imagination at Jimmy Grant's (here at the Emporium)

South Indian roti canai finds a new home along Lonsdale Street.

My fav Greek restaurant in Melbourne - Tsindos.

St Francis Church, now surrounded by modern trappings.

Yum cha at a Gold Leaf restaurant outlet in suburban Burwood - braised chicken feet (Fong Chau) , battered yam (Wu Kok) and Siew Mai (steamed prawn and pork dumpling).  Chinese name references are in the Cantonese language.  Photo credit - Ms Suan Chee.

At dawn, overlooking the Southern Cross Station

The inner sanctum of the restored Melbourne GPO, which now houses an H & M store.

Quickie - poached organic eggs over tasted sourdough at Stagger Lee's, Fitzroy.

Above: John Wesley is honoured at Lonsdale Street.
Below: Starter breads at French in South Yarra/Toorak.

Mainland Chinese cuisine has cropped up increasingly all over Australia - here in suburban Melbourne, a very yummy braised pork knuckle 

Melbourne continues to be hipster, multi-cultural, bohemian and so liveable.

Fitzroy, Melbourne

At Stagger Lee's, you get rustic charm, great coffee, a hipster crowd and a lively evening out.

Fitzroy, the name evokes Melbourne, an alternative lifestyle and so Melbourne itself.
Also hosting a football club significant in the tribal sports culture of this city, it is only a few blocks away (really two kilometres)  from the Victorian Parliament House.  It has heritage sites, a long road to walk in quiet hours and even boasts the birth place of Saint Mary MacKillop, the nation's first Catholic to be bestowed with such honours.  Its very location attracts twenty somethings and so there are the inevitable unique cafes, ethnic food outlets and old frontages of terrace shops. I am captivated by the Perseverance Hotel, for it does look like in dire need of a restorative make over.  And I want to go back to the Fitzroy Town Hall!  And Fitzroy hosts the popular Fringe Festival for Melbourne.   The Fitzroy Baseball Club, the Lions, has existed since 1889 and Fitzroy City, mostly formed by Serbian Australians in 1953, is part of the Victorian State League Football.

Almond croissant from the Babka Cafe.

Dining out, partying near a weekend  or just having a trendy breakfast can be centred around the bars, cafes and pubs.
Caffeine top ups, chatting with baristas and being served fancy toppings over sour dough slices are the order of brunch time as well - with names like Stagger Lee's, Slowpoke and the Grub Food Van.   Music gigs closer to moonlight hours can be found in places like Yah Yahs, Collingwood World  and Panama.    The Euro tradition and heritage is evident here, a precursor to the arrival of other immigrant groups.  Johnson Street oozes with Spanish themes.  The Black Cat has transformed into a bar.  Sydney's Messina Gelato has a branch in Fitzroy along Smith Street.  And there is the Supercool Fitzroy Emporium and the French delight at Gertrude Street, De Clieu, inspired by a former naval officer Gabriel De Clieu who famously saved precious water rations for his coffee plants rather then for himself.

Small business? Crafts are still very much alive in Fitzroy, amidst the apparent gentrification of the suburb twenty years ago and the current revival of inner city living.

Third Drawer Down can be checked out for unusual oddities in shopping at affordable prices.  Nearby Brunswick has the Sydney Road Street party in March, to coincide with the Brunswick Festival.   The current free tram ride on the northern edge of Melbourne's CBD means you can take advantage of this and find your own way nearer to Fitzroy.  Tram No 112 from Collins Street or No 86 from Bourke Street takes you to Brunswick Street.  Nearby train stations are in Collingwood, Parliament and Rushall in North Fitzroy - and then you have to walk, which may be the best way to soak in this unique area.  The Rose Street Artists markets on weekends showcase emerging talent.  Several galleries are accessible on most days - Alcaston, Sutton, the Centre for Contemporary Photography, Window99, PanelPop and the Brunswick Street Gallery.

Breakky and brunch menu at Slowpoke, along Brunswick Street in Fitzroy.

March is festival time in greater Melbourne, with the Moomba Parade, Garden and Flower Show, Food and Wine Festival plus the FI Grand Prix (chalking up 20 years in 2015).  It is but officially the start of the Victorian autumn.  The bohemian nature of Fitzroy nurtures budding interests and devotees in film, cycling, fashion, graphics, art and music. If you are into retro records, vintage wares and cult classics, Fitzroy still does not disappoint.  Check out outlets like Polyester Books, sibling, Somebody Loves You, FAT 4, Hunter gatherer and in.cube8r.  For shoes, go to Smith Street.

Depiction of early settlement life in recent Australian history - an artist's rendition along Brunswick Street.

Fitzroy street scene in the quiet hour.

Oddly enough, Fitzroy is named after a previous New South Wales Governor - considering the sizable historic rivalry between Sydney and Melbourne, this is amazing.   It was the first suburb created outside Melbourne city centre under 200 years ago.   In line with current day trendy districts around there world, Fitzroy was initially a working class area and its proximity to Melbourne's Chinatown also saw many settlers of Chinese origin amongst its first residents. The present day City of Yarra, as distinct from Melbourne, was created in 1994 to take in nearby Collingwood, Richmond and Fitzroy.  Up to nearly half of today's demographics in Fitzroy originate from Vietnam - and so Vietnamese, Cantonese and Mandarin are popular tongues, reflecting the mix of boat refugees following the conclusion of the Vietnam War int he seventies.  Politically, the Australian Labour Party and the Greens hold pretty much sway in this area.   For those who follow Aussie TV, Fitzroy was used for location shooting for such serials as Rush, Offspring and City Homicide.  Last but not least, I note that the second Prime Minister of Australia as a federation, Alfred Deakin, hailed from Fitzroy.

Hardware Societe - Melbourne CBD

On any day, one must manage expectations in trying to find a seat - outside the Hardware Societe.



This has been the darling and the positive delight of foodies, and still is.  Particularly appreciated by the Asian demographic, but really sited in a fantastic locale in the heart of Melbourne CBD, with students, trendies, metrosexuals, shoppers, tourists and hipsters swirling all around.  Located at the northern end of Hardware Lane (an iconic one at that), closer to Little Lonsdale rather than Lonsdale Street, it has been renovated with a more modern feel but with packed seating and very busy staff.  Considering the menu range, the number of eager customers and the constant demand, this is a challenging business model of providing continuing logistics, competitive innovation and required engagement.  The first thing I noticed is that some apparent repeat guests know how to approach the place like a hawk on arrival, zooming down on the next available table and already seemingly waiting to pounce from the line.  Like queueing for yum cha or Mamak's roti, you may have to watch people eat and drink, but you are ready to order when you get a seat.   The food is served on wooden boards and one feels obliged not to waste time at your table, as you can see other eager beavers waiting outside.

A surprisingly delightful wall of elegant butterflies hides around the inside.

So is it worth the effort to make it in at last into the Societe?  The coffee is satisfying, as it should be.
Seasonal produce is emphasised here and so gives a bit of kick to the menu.  There is an Euro layer over the modern Aussie breakfast.   It provides for gluten free requirements, but do read the details below some interesting named items. It is open everyday from 730am-ish till early arvo.  There are Spanish, French, savoury and sweet themes in your choices.  There are both indoor and outdoor seating.   Service is mostly focused, with staff speaking professionally, although at times the food can take more than the usual wait time (hey, the kitchen area is not large).  I did notice that my deep fried roast chicken was a bit off that morning, but otherwise the staff were good despite the market crowd conditions.  I adored the taste of my hard boiled eggs and the avocado spread on my bread. The Societe can be akin to a warm gathering of school alumni members, each connected with their appreciation and love of food with Mediterranean influences and quality Australian ingredients.  Whether they are cold meats, vegetarian, marinated pickles, meringue, good old bacon or fancy garnishing, the Societe blends them into creative offerings.

More lunch than brunch - the big breakky board.

After an often wholesome meal at the Societe, practically you are liberated to delve into other business of the day.  You still recall the chorizo, infused teas or the gherkins. Why is there a cockerel at the front of the place, has to do with the French.  I love the hanging lamps, reeking of post-industrial, modern hype and thoughtful design - maybe some are hanging too low over the guests.
The Society obviously values turnover.  You go there in the midst of a busy schedule.  Even when friends catch up I notice a sense of urgency, you are not there to delve over your refined chocolate for hours.   This is a rare place that is not totally ethnic cuisine, yet not the usual big breakfast from home.  Therein lies the charm of the Hardware Societe, despite its occasional blips, people still have good perceptions and actual experiences of having something unique.  A Melbourne city lane life. The kind of people who gather there. All theses, in addition to the menu.

Counter position can be best if you want a more quiet ambiance, as tables can be packed together and you can watch the kitchen staff at work.

Two Birds One Stone - Toorak / South Yarra, Melbourne

Elegance of the interior even after a long day.



It is on a  side street away from the main strip of Toorak, but is walkable from the South Yarra Rail Station.
With two shop fronts, it is more spacious than most cafes.  There are high ceilings and the place is tastefully appointed but in a simple stark way.  Operating as a breakfast and lunch hub, there is a rather imaginative menu playing with the best of ingredients.  I was delighted with my omelette even if it was late arvo, light and fluffy with a yummy sensation every time I bit into the spanner crab filling.   Service is quick and with a smile on a late January day.  No high brow and stuffy nose, nor over worked rush with vacant looks from the staff.  They complement the Adriano Zumbo Patisserie next door.  After a meal, you are not far from the alternative retail delights of Chapel Street.

Spanner crab omelette garnished weight sweet chilli and fresh greens.




Its Claremont Street location can be busy during the core hours. There is a choice in seating arrangements from the expected high stools to tables for two, but I just adore the window side offerings.  The menu is categorised into sections but all items are available the whole day long.  Offerings that jump out of the menu are the salt cod and potato cake with wilted spinach; oat crumbed Irish themed Colcannon; sautéed mushrooms on brioche; and the Doughboy doughnuts.
Eggs are prepared and presented in a variety of ways with captivating freshness.

A relaxing ambience before closing time - before the Five Senses espressos arrive.

First Moon for Hayden Yeap - January 2015 Melbourne

Hayden Yeap with grand aunt at the Shark Fin's Restaurant in suburban Melbourne.  Hayden is clutching a red packet
offered by Lucy to mark his very first one month.
Photo credit: SC Yeap.

Celebratory Straits Chinese snacks, the Ang Koo, made with tortoise shaped moulds and packed with steamed fillings of mung bean and sweet potato paste.  These are usually only prepared to mark the first month of new born infants, accompanied by round red coloured balls for boys and peach shaped snacks for girl babies.

Edible red dye is poured over the shells of these hard boiled eggs.  Droplets of vinegar help to seal in a consistency of colour and eggs must be placed at room temperature to help ensure the shell does not stick to the cooked inside of the egg.

Straits Chinese cuisine combines the best of southern Chinese  dishes with those of South-east Asia for over six hundred years.  Turmeric coloured steamed glutinous rice is often served with  Indian inspired chicken curry to distribute to family and friends in signifying a new addition to a family.  The Western style cake was added with the arrival of the European colonists , opening the Portuguese, Dutch and British influence.  Red is the preferred colour to signify positive omens of brightness, wealth and good luck.

Kevin, Mackie, Hayden, Eu-Gene and Matthew on a summer's night.
Photo credit: SC Yeap.

Queen Victoria Markets, Melbourne

The Vic markets have been in operation since 1878.   There are covered halls, open air stalls and old fashioned market alleys. Fast food and more can also be found in the series of shops adjacent to the markets proper.  It forms a unique suburban shopping town in its own right, although it is easily walkable to the site after alighting from one of the complimentary City Circle trams on the northern side of Melbourne CBD.

Open every day, except for Wednesdays, the stallholders are there mostly from 6am to 2pm, although there is a later start on lazy Sunday mornings from 9am.   The Dairy Hall is a particular attraction although I recommend walking around with an open mind and you never know what delights and surprises you may find in store.  For us on a March afternoon, we found delicious figs, touristy souvenirs like the trams and even the Sydney Harbour ferry plus a whole host of nutty produce at better prices than in Sydney.

There are the expected encounters with clothes, jewellery, breads, fruits, buskers, farm fresh eggs, China made stuff, Aussie originals, fast food and organic produce. The floors are relatively dry and  clean and not difficult to navigate.   You can also source gourmet and deli supplies apart from the well known tradition of trying jam donuts.

These are the largest markets of its kind south of the Equator.  Pirated goods used  to be the controversial profile of the Vic Markets in the first half of the nineties.  Solar panels were set up to provide renewable and cleaner energy arrangements for the markets in 2003.  There was even a significant attempt to close these markets in the seventies. The site of such markets overlapped with pre-existing burial grounds and  there had to be re-interment of buried human remains to accommodate the expansion of the markets.

For those who prefer more of agricultural produce and displays, there are farmers' markets in Echuca, Mytrleford, Mulgrave, Flemington, Torquay, Inverloch , Boorondara and Hume Murray outside Melbourne CBD.  Also worthy to check out in Melbourne city centre are the Prahran and South Melbourne markets.