Budding up at Brickfields

You can recognise a well settled place when you walk through one.    The vibes cascade in to your heart and gut feel.   It is not just the multitude of colours, noise and people.  It is as if you have to instinctively acknowledge the layer upon layer of culture, religion, happening and interaction.   You are not a trained archaeologist, but you readily know there is  trail of the preceding before the present.     One such place is an inner city suburb in the Klang Valley in Peninsular Malaysia - Brickfields.


Even the English name belies that not all is what it seems to be.   The colonial British named the suburb, but today they are no longer here or in  charge.   What strikes a first time visitor is the diversity of the main strip - Tun Sambanthan Road.     The thoroughfare is named  after an independence fighter for Malaya in the middle of the 20th century   -  TS came from an immigrant south Indian background.    


The Golden Cheronese, or what the Peninsular was referred to at the height of the Greek golden age, was already playing out its strategic and inevitable role of being at the juncture of trade routes, adventurer conquerers and migrating peoples.   In the context of the long history of mankind, South-east Asia was clearly more under the influence of significant Indian political, religious and cultural emphasis, until the advent of harnessing of the monsoon winds that propelled sailing ships from the Middle East and Europe.   Hindu kingdoms with names like Sri Vijaya exerted power and homage upon the ordinary masses and remnants of the Indian sub-continental influence can be seen in Angkor Wat and Borobudur.   


With this historical perspective, labour was recruited under the auspices of the British East India Company and then the British Empire (that never saw the sun set), to work on the then profitable rubber plantations scattered across the west coast of the Peninsular.   The political stability, strong standards of governance and reliable economic structure proffered by the colonial Brits also attracted migrants from around Asia.    These colonials loved to divide and rule, perhaps starting with their experience in Ireland, then spreading to Africa, India and the so called Far East.    The need for a firm bureaucracy and political system to lord over the ethnics across the world required a mindset of effective business management and rule.    A  trend developed to develop geographical sectors according to racial background, for the colonials did observe the varying attitudes and behavioural characteristics of each ethnic group.


In Malaya, the hype was about the working attitude of the three main races in the 18th to 20th centuries.    The Malays were seen fit to be administrators, the Chinese as profitable business people and the Indians as workers.   I wonder why the British did not consider the Indigenous people of Malaya within this plan.


So the segmentation began, resulting in the layout of cities, rural areas and estates echoing this rather interesting mindset.   Brickfields began to be a strong Indian community hub.   Today it is promoted as the Little India of Kuala Lumpur ( "Muddy Confluence"), as tourism soared with the advent of greater mobility, air travel and rising incomes.   Sited on the western side of the city centre, Brickfields has had vibrancy further enhanced with the contemporary development of adjoining Sentral, with its train platform convenience, shopping facilities, accommodation hub and airport access.  This has a historical basis, for Brickfields long ago was the main depot built for the transportation network known as the Malayan Railway in the colonial period.


Against this background, I had a recent opportunity to check out this inner city delight buzzing with various aspects of Indian heritage, foodie offerings and traffic buzz.   More often than not, I would stay in the suburbs outside the city centre when in the Klang Valley, especially with the network of shopping centres, coffee shops and friends.   This time around, in five minutes, I could go for walks along TS Road, soak in with the flowered garlands and pancake rotis for breakfast.   I enjoyed coming across individuals with a painted dot on their foreheads.


The senses experienced from my childhood, even if I did not grow up in Brickfields, came rushing back, for I had lovely and caring Indian neighbours when growing up in Penang - such is the hidden benefit of living in a harmonious multi-cultural society, when people still exchanged home cooked dishes, children were colour blind and there was more emphasis on sharing commonalities than bringing out differences.   The cultural familiarity put me in a safe and comfy place in my heart, enhanced by the cooking aromas, the colours of clothes, the tilt and accent of languages spoken and the appetising lure of niche food.   All at once, the layers were peeled from under Australian norms to reach back to feel another world which had been forgotten and buried in time.


So despite the advent of "divide and rule", the colonials under rated the power of the human instinct to enquire, interact and socialise.    It all starts with simply food, that first item across the fence that builds up friendships.   I was back to freshly made rotis with simple curry gravy, the quintessential breakfast amongst working colleagues in this country as well.   I was so glad my Aussie mate was partaking this kind of food with me on this visit.   The Tamil music, the scent of sandalwood joss sticks and the dazzling but still natural colour of blooms on garlands  -  TS Road revealed all these.  The perfumery can be too strong on some passer-bys.  The traffic can build up to a buzz.   The script on sign boards contrasted with the Roman alphabet.  No matter how the level of activity in Brickfields was carefree and random, it was at the same time purposeful.  


One lazy afternoon on this recent visit, I had the opportunity of trying the lunch of long ago in my mind - getting steamed rice or Briyani, and then going round the table to pick your own servings of the various dishes that catch the attention of your eye and palate.    Call it Nasi Kandar, name it Chap Fun or whatever.    The selections are all cooked that morning by Big Mama, usually a petite lady with heaps of experience in southern Indian cuisine, surrounded by her sons.   Every dish is a labour of love and passion that she puts in.  The quality of curry gravy is often above average.   So I could sample this and that, with memories of the aromas that drifted to my nostrils on walking back from school.  I do not recall the humidity nor the bright sunlight.  I only remember the spices, the appetising experience and those unassuming afternoons.


People I knew then were not laden with much money and yet the level of happiness was so much better than I see in so called rich suburbs around the world.  Individuals and families did their best to rise above challenges.   The country was relatively young, promising and with positive possibilities.   So I watched with interest this current younger generation, walking along the road, with their own kind of hope in their eyes.


One evening, the nearby Maha ViharaTemple held their biggest event of the year - the street parade with various floats sponsored by different parties to mark Vesak Day, an occasion to remember the birth, Enlightenment and passing of the Buddha.    This is Little India, but it is not just Hindu, for in a multi-cultural place like Malaysia, there is still the embracing of diversity like I recall from my childhood.   Brickfields reminds me that it is still all there in the 21st century, even if some quarters have chipped away the extent of such racial tolerance.   You can also get Halal food, not far from a single Chinese restaurant - and Western backpackers can still roam the streets with relative impunity.  


Brickfields boasts of more than garment shops and ethnic cafes.    There is the Temple of Fine Arts.   The Sri Lankan community also congregate at the Sri Kandaswamy Temple at Scotts Road.   The Malaysian Association of the Blind, the YMCA and the Global Indian International School have sizeable operations here.   Churches include Our Lady of Fatima, the Zion Lutheran Church, the Holy Rosary Church and the Indian Orthodox Church.  The Three Teachings Chinese Temple and a Surau complete the multi-cultural profile of Brickfields.


Societies which are open to the world, absorb the best from foreign influences and share inner core values will still do well in the future.     History has demonstrated this observation, from the rise of trading city states to the cosmopolitan nature of capitals of great empires.   At times there may be discouragement and setback, but the wisdom and leadership of key individuals do significantly count in the progress of mankind in this respect.


So what is the foreseeable future for the Indian community in the current Federation of Malaysia?   Their compatriots from the Mother Country have been making huge strides in other nations  - think of the Silicon Valley in California, the contributions of Indians in the United Kingdom and their long economic presence in South Africa.   Indian families have seen their members transported to various corners of the globe like the Chinese - and whether they are in Canada, the Caribbean, Dubai, Thailand, Hong Kong or Australia, the journey and story of their Diaspora continues.


And I asked why the whole place is called Brickfields.   Kuala Lumpur was a village built by the various racial groups, including the Kapitan Cinas of old.    Kapitan Yap Ah Loy reserved land for the setting up of a brick making industry here after the British Resident of the State of Selangor - Sir Frank Sweetenham - ordered for buildings to be built of brick.    Kapitan Yap Kwan Seng established the kilns.    This is one glorious example of why historical names of places should not be forgotten, abandoned or changed - I am glad that this has not happened to Brickfields.

JJ's Indian Wollongong NSW

Goat curry ala Indian style  - much more sumptious than the south-east Asian version.  

We were greeted by smiling faces, whether from the lady taking our food orders or the young gentleman bringing us our dishes.   The restaurant was well patronised even on a week night, especially for Wollongong.   The steamed rice was impeccable.  Nobody made a fuss about the rather chilling weather outside.  

Spicy food can be accompanied by a matching drinks list, and JJ's has the usual mix of beers, wines, Lhassi, mixer drinks and soft drinks.   There are three main categories in the  food as I see it - a rather extensive vegetarian,  some seafood and other mains.

Barramundi fillet curry as in the Mallabari - fresh fish and  creamy curry that brings out the best of the ocean flavours and spices of the land.   The scent of curry leaves and mustard seeds lift this dish up as well.

The Australian practice is to ask what level of chilli hotness do you prefer as a dining customer.    We settled for the medium level.  Even if personally I have a preference for hotter curries, I did enjoy the texture and taste of the curry gravies served.   I reckon this comes down to the harmony with an optimal amount of spice mix and in the end it is the overall flavour and outcome of each Indian culinary dish.    If any fault is to be found, a mate remarked that perhaps the curries we had seemed too creamy for his taste.

There is  a rather delightful consistency in the dishes created and cooked at JJ's.   The careful use of ingredients shows in the bite and experience.   The Wollongong restaurant is decked out with a tasteful dining lay out and some displays of cultural icons, which help to add to the atmosphere.

Our prawn Masala  - a pretty sight and even more tasty!

JJ's visited is located at  3/50 Crown Street, Wollongong NSW, not far from the junction with Corrimal Street and near two large apartment blocks.Opening hours are from noon to 230pm for lunch and from 5pm to 10pm for dinner every day.Contact +  61 2 4225 0888There is also another outlet of JJ's in Kiama NSW.

My impressions of JJ's in Wollongong NSW:Ambiance:  3.5 out of 5Customer Engagement: 4 out of 5Culinary Delight: 3.5 out of 5X Factor:  3 out of 5Overall:  14/4 out of 5

My other recommended dishes from the menu are:

Machli Raye Tamatari  - a tomato based fish curry.

Gulbadan Kofta -  these are deep fried veg mince balls served in a sauce made cleverly from cashew nut paste.   Totally vegetarian, looks colourful.

Barrah Kebab - an Iranian inspired serving of grilled lamb cutlets, which have been marinated in hung curd, peppercorns, Cardamoms, cloves, ginger paste and garlic.  Also made with mutton in traditional cooking.

Garlic prawns, flavoured with yoghurt and cooked.

 

Chatkazz Vegetarian - Harris Park NSW

Pretty and yummy - the Dahi Puri.  Sweet tamarind and spicy green chutneys garnish the popular Maharashtra hard and puffy shells with chickpeas and potatoes, found easily in chaat stalls in Mumbai.
 Photo Credit - Mr. Edwin Chee

When John from Eastwood suggested going to Chatkazz, I was fascinated with the feedback from his family, especially
from his children, one in university and another in high school.  I understand Chatkazz cuisine is one of their family favourites, so the rest of us sat back and observed as the youngsters ordered the dishes for us.   Our table had a balance of grains, yoghurt, crunchy bites, dips, sweet, savoury and various textures.  What a spread for the ten of us!  Plenty of bottled water was provided for us throughout the meal.  We were given a table near what was interestingly marked as "Chilli Storage".  I also noted the breakfast options and a choice of Indo-Sino food dishes.

Chhole Bathura with chickpea curry dip.  Spicy, served with pickles and onions.

The menu is extensive but has a common theme - the principles of Jain, which emphasises on Sattvic, aimed to encompass the achievement of lightness, happiness and goodness.  Translated into table serving terms, we noticed an absence of ingredients that may cause putridness, lethargy and darkness to the body and the human emotions - items I take for granted like garlic and eggplants.   I asked another family waiting at the Chatkazz entrance for a table on an early Saturday evening if the Chatkazz menu is specific to a region of the Indian subcontinent, and the wife said it is eaten everywhere there - Gujarat, Karnataka, Delhi, Rajasthan and more.  So a sub-continent wide menu is made available in the heart of greater Sydney, thanks to the multiculturalism openness of the Australian government.

Dhoklas have mustard seeds sprinkled over them (photo below) together with coriander, curry leaves, and grated coconut - they are often eaten at breakfast time and are made from chickpea flour, yoghurt and baking soda. The resulting batter is seasoned with a pinch of turmeric, green chili paste (wonder of wonders!), lemon juice, sugar, salt, oil and a fruit lime green colouring before steaming.

Not rice cakes but well appreciated , the plate has been increasingly cleaned out -  Dhoklas that had been sliced for easier munching, served with mint sauces and more.

Yoghurt on a bread shell - sweet entree of  a Puri.

The food genre has many common elements with those in Iran, Pakistan, Sri Lanka and Nepal.  I can see menu items from Chatkazz that are familiar to anyone with a Chinese Malaysian background - Parathas, Chaats, Samosas, Kulfis, Sambhars, Khormas and Bhajis.  Growing up in what was a mature multi-cultural environment does have its benefits.

I did find the onion Pakhora over whelming, it was over salty but still good as a stand by snack.  I loved the Puris best, in all forms, as they are petite, offers various sensations and you never know what you are going to bite into.  Puris are generally round wheat flour pieces deep fried with both savoury and sweet -  often Sabji potato curry and a strained yoghurt called Shrikhnad. 

My dining group that night did not delve into desserts much, as we were already full.

Saturday evening 7pm - and more to come!

We could have been dancing to so-called Bollywood music piped in between our dishes.  Sari was intently checking out the menu as she reckoned her son William would love trying out this place.  Perhaps our group stood out as being the only non-Indians that evening but each of us were comfortable with this - next time we may ask our Indian mates to come along.  My body's digestive system had a welcome experience that cold evening and I slept like an infant over night.

Doughnut like dessert.

To the initiated, many dishes are street food back in the Motherland but I was fascinated with each and every one of them.  Chaat refers to savoury food snacks served at street side food stalls all over India.

Throughout,  to me, it was how normally bland ingredients are harmonised with the use of selected spices, cheeses and herbs to lift the dish up all together - and also the level of attention paid in preparation and presentation to result in various textures on the palate.   Many of the dishes have to be eaten fast after being served, whilst others remain good and content having them cold.   The careful choice of spicy, plain or aromatic dips and gravies also play their part.  Servings are often easy bite sized.  Fluffed up snacks do lose their size if ignored for too long and the yoghurt can only taste as good as they have just been prepared.   There are so many plates spread across a family table I wonder how cleaning up is best done!

Photo credit - Mr. Edwin Chee

The presence of ingredients like potatoes and chickpeas can make for a more than wholesome meal, and each of the ten of us at our table felt more than adequate after the dinner.  I had usually such access to vegetarian food only on weekends day time (for example the Hindu temple canteen at Helensburgh just south of Sydney) - so it is a pleasure to have found this place.  Servings are also rather on the generous side.  My preferred dishes that evening tend toward aromatic, fluffy grains like the Pulav or Briyani and light crepes like the Masala Dosa.

The more familiar Masala Dosa, with a light and easy crepe skin and potato filling inside.
Photo Credit - Mr. Edwin Chee

It is important to bear in mind the Jain philosophy and practice behind such cuisine of lacto-vegetarianism - this is to minimise adding to the supply chain elements of violence (Himsa), so there are assured no eggs, milk, seafood and meats.  Such intent is to break the cycle of reincarnation for human beings, as Ahimsa or non-violence is an indispensable condition of achieving this spiritual liberation.  Buddhist precepts closely echo this mindset.   Purer forms of practice even avoid the consumption of rooted vegetables like potatoes, onions, brinjals, garlic and tubers.

Mango Lhassi in a milk bottle.  Photo Credit - Mr. Edwin Chee

Ambiance:  Buzzing with activity and diners, it gets really crowded the later on a weekend evening.
Families, with piped in music and a close sense of community.  It makes me forget I am even in Australia.
Staff engagement: Friendly and responsive.
Table bookings not provided for on weekends.
Would I return? A definite yes.  I am eyeing the Mumbai Roadside Special,  the Pani Puris, the Chai Ya coffee, Frankies, the veg pizzas and their version of fried ice cream.
I especially like the idea of "eating with a purpose" with this cuisine.


Chatkazz is located at Shop 4
14-20 Station Road East, Harris Park near the buzzing hub of Parramatta CBD.
Telephone 02 86770033 and 0433 688 501
Opening hours: Weekends from 9am to 10pm, Tuesdays to Fridays 10am to 10pm and Mondays 5pm to 10pm.
Harris Park can get real busy at certain times which may prove to be a challenge for easy vehicle parking but there is a rail station.  Chatkazz has its own vehicle parking compound but it can get not so easy to navigate out later in the evenings.



 

Helensburgh Hindu Temple - Canteen Delights

Nestled in the bush at Helensburgh NSW, in the vicinity of the Sri Vankateswara Hindu Temple grounds sited on a hill at the northern end of the Illawarra coast, lies an unassuming canteen which offers delights in Indian vegetarian cuisine.  If driving by car, you have to turn off the ramp from the main highway south of Waterfall and not head towards Wollongong and the NSW South Coast.   City trains do have scheduled runs to Helensburgh, but it is a distance to navigate from the station to the Temple at Temple Road. The place is packed with crowds on religious festive days and Sundays, but it is always wise to plan your trip and arrive early , meaning like around 1030 am.  The canteen opens at 10am on weekends. The menu consists mainly of dosas, breads, rotis, deep fried snacks, yummy vegetarian curry and yogurt based dipping accompaniments.  Even the 'blank" dosas are delightful as they are light and easy.  An interesting combination is the dhalpuri, a version of the roti that is packed with yellow split beans, garlic, pepper and cumin. I just love the sambar offered here, with deeper intensity of taste than some commercial competitors in Australian conurbations -  and offering a kick when eaten with the fluffy warm pancakes or crepes.  Rotis are essentially made from atta  flour (stone ground wholemeal flour).  Another of my favourite choices from this canteen is the paratha.   Some of the curries - essentially light and soupy with no coconut milk - can be hot and vary in spicy intensity.  On a cold late morning, i have now learnt to not take my hot coffee too early but after my meal.

The canteen is well organised, asking for customers to line up and order/pay at a central spot.  You are then given coupons which you use to collect your food and drinks from other counters.  As in any self-respecting outlet, the food is prepared and served fresh.  Disposable utensils and plates are used - and there are sinks to wash up and neatly maintained garbage bins. You sit under cloth tent covers or in the open - I rather prefer the latter on a fine day as I did with Arun last month.  We could take in the pleasing and inspiring views of gum trees, the Aussie blue sky and feel the fresh air in our face.

Georgetown, Penang - Iconic Festive Foods

Kueh Kapek - folded "love letters" made to mark the Lunar New Year.  Families used to gather and make such festive creations together, patiently sitting over a row of charcoal ambers and toasting the mould holders containing the dough. Once the layers are ready, they have to cool down sufficiently before they are folded over and stored in air tight containers.

Belly pork on the bone - to signify plenty and prosperity for birthdays and other festive occasions.
With agricultural and cultural reliance on this very important live stock, many nations across the world  have strong cuisine traditions roasting, simmering, slow cooking and deep frying pork.

The Jiu Hoo Char - A Straits Chinese salad and savoury mix that emphasises texture, taste and refinement.
This dish used to be  a crucial test in showing good up bringing for potential daughter-in-laws.  The lack of discretionary time for working women these days means less opportunity to delve into practising the finer nuances required in making this delicate dish.  Modern kitchen aids cannot replicate the same results in the requirements of this dish - it requires a good attitude, attention to detail and deftness in slicing and cutting skills.  Not too many commercial restaurants have this dish on their menus.  Literally, the name of the dish indicates fried cuttlefish, but the dish also has thinly sliced pork; soaked and dried glass noodles; sliced and soaked mushroom cuts; peeled and shredded carrots; sliced shallots; finely shredded yam bean (the bang kuang); and of course, the dried cuttlefish.

Chicken red curry, served not he skin and the bone for extra flavour - south Indian inspirations. From Aunty Yong's.
Virgin coconut oil for cooking is back in favour, as for hundreds of years before the new fangled theories and media hype on what is truly healthy. Spices used are best pounded by mortar and pestle - and rolled fresh on stone implements, for the paste from an electric blender do not produce the same outcomes in the curry gravy.

The Kueh Pie Tee - crispy deep fried holders contain flavourful but thin slices of pork and crunchy veg.  Apt for cocktails, snacks and afternoon teas.  From Aunty Yong's.  A colonial favourite in south-east Asia, they are appetising, encourage moderate snacking and offer bite-sized consumption.  Lovingly called top hats as well, they require ingredients like julienned carrots, chopped dried shrimps and julienned yam bean (the jicama). Garnish with pepper, spring onions and a dash of soy sauce  to bring out the oomph in the mix. A challenge in making the deep fried cases is that you require a mould.

The Lam Mee, traditional musts for iconic birthdays and family gatherings.  The proof of this exquisite dish is in the soup stock.  From Aunty Yong's.  A discerning choice of pork rib bones sets the base for a good start as these are used importantly to determine the overall taste. The Hokkien noodles are preferably al dente when served.  Shelled prawns, shredded omelette strips (remarkably dyed pink for a happy omen) and bean sprouts are essential. The dish when served is garnished with shallots and coriander leaves.

The Roti Jala, or net flour based snacks, to go well with a spicy curry.  From Aunty Lai's.  To me they are better than breads or rice when dipping into meat curries and they are an alternative to the ubiquitous roti canai.

The Nasi Ulam, or a herbed rice salad, a healthy idea for lunch, yet tasty, organic and aromatic - of Indonesian and Thai origins.
From Aunty Lai's.  There are several versions of this, with emphasis on different ingredients, but all echoing the need for detailed work, fresh leaves and a sense of love when creating them.   In Western nations, most of  those herbs required can be sourced from Thai groceries or from home grown garden beds.  Some ingredients are a challenge to obtain fresh, like the bunga kantan or torch ginger flower; daun kaduk or the wild betel leaf; the daun kunyit or the turmeric leaf; and the daun kesom or Vietnamese mint leaf polygonum.  (Please note, daun means leaf and nasi refers to rice, as most visitors to Bali would already know)

From Fujian, the steamed taro cake, garnished liberally with toasted garlic - from Aunty Lai/s.

Temasek Singapore Restaurant, George Street, Parramatta - Western Sydney

Smooth and tender, a whole chicken is soaked in cooking stock, the chef conscious of delicateness and flavours that infuse the meat with skin on, before it is sliced for serving, with condiments made from ginger, sweet black soy and chili.

Joseph Chan did it again - organise a group of us to have a sit down dinner at Temasek, one of the most enduring places in the Sydney region to continue to provide  Malaysian and Singaporean fare and cuisine all these past 30 years.  This time we had eleven diners ( due to one apology, who was not feeling well) and the round table was graced by people from various origins - South Africa, the Philippines, Malaysia, etc. I was seated between my dear elderly aunt Laura and Greg from Castlehill.  The place was as expected abuzz with many other diners, with a sprinkling of Caucasian families and groups, all intent to delve into the fare found abundantly in the food courts, cafes and streets of Singapore and Malaysian conurbations.

Grilled chicken satay sticks are served with sliced bits of pineapple, cucumber and onions.  The true test of this street food dish is the quality of the accompanying peanut-based gravy.

My best nominations this time at Temasek were for the Hainan chicken rice and the grilled satay skewers (photos above).  It is true that the chicken stock flavoured rice has now come to represent Singapore's national dish, even if it originated amongst immigrants to the Kelang Valley, Penang, Kinta Valley and Singapore from Hainan island in the 19th century. Immigration to then British colonial Malaya (with the current Malaysian peninsular in political union then with the island of Singapore) meant a segmentation of trades and business to ensure that everyone  of the various races earned a livelihood. It is said that the Hainanese immigrants arrived too late for the tin mining rush - and that a strong understanding of niche specialisation arrangements already taken up by the Chinese immigrants from other provinces in southern China meant that the Hainan arrivals had to revert to commercial cooking.  I notice there is no such segmentation in modern day Australia, or is there?  These Hainanese arrivals turned out to have a forte with cookery and food outlets - and created the Hainan chicken dish now of legend in south-east Asia.

Fluffy and light roti, which are best dipped with a light and dilute curry and obviously of Indian origin.

 That evening I did find the Malaysian styled creamy chicken curry was a tad over salty and lacked the spiciness that I had hoped for.   I noticed that the sambal spinach (kangkong) was plainer than I wanted.  Have these dishes been modified for mainstream diners in multicultural Parramatta?
Tomato cuts stir fried with egg omelette may not be a Malaysian idea, but more of a Fujian concept, raised to extra tastiness using Australian sourced ingredients. The beef rendang is Malaysia's national dish and also available from Temasek.  What I enjoyed was the or chen, or oysters stir fried with omelette - a rich dish health-wise but Temasek has found the right level in serving this dish that is neither too creamy nor too burnt. Best picked up by chopsticks, the oyster  mix should melt in the mouth and release a hint of fresh seafood.

Beef rendang, normally more dry curry paste back in Malaysia.

For dessert, we had the opportunity to sample the red tortoise (ang koo), a snack normally reserved to celebrate the birth of a male infant or mark a special joyous occasion.  Bite sized, the red looking round cakes contain mashed and cooked mung bean paste inside, whilst glutinous rice flour is utilised to make the outer skin.  This Straits Chinese specialty is hardly made by many these days and was such a special treat.  The food of Malaysia and Singapore, as you can see now, comes from a fusion of cooking styles that synchronise with migration and history.

Nothing like smoked tea to down the oils and spices away.

Harris Park, Sydney - Little India Too

Wigram Street in Harris Park, NSW, offers an interesting array of commercial retailers alongside its residential houses.  Inside the Taj Indian Sweets (photo above), there are satellite broadcasts, a range of traditional sweets to choose from and a busy indoors.  Below, the Bhoj Sweets & Restaurant, housed in  a renovated 19th century former suburban house with steps and a white picket fence.  The Bhoj is also the  name of a different chain in the Melbourne, Victoria area, in both Templestoe and the Docklands. Bhoj in the Hindi language, I reckon, refers to both a boy's name and a feast or banquet.  The Taj is the Crown.

The ambiance in Harris Park is definitely homely, with a feel of weekend solitude, a working bird bath (picture below) and vehicles parked on the streets. Residents in the greater Sydney area with an Indian background are also found in hubs like in Blacktown, Quackers Hill, Westmead, Liverpool, Kellyville and Glenwood.

There are old world groceries and new-fangled diners around the corners of Harris Park. Apart from Indian, the multi-cultural character of Sydney suburbs does shine through.  I noticed the Olive Greek Restaurant along Marion Street near the rail station. Diners get the full expereince of Mythos Lager, garlic sensations and a live traditional music band on Saturday evenings.

Some homes have well kept gardens and herbal clusters.  What intrigued me was the marriage of Chinese and Indian cooking in the restaurant called Indian Chopsticks (below).  Yes, they offer deep fried spring rolls.  There are also dishes made with the Chinese five spice mix, in addition to the Indian garam masala. Mushrooms are stir fried on the wok with peppers and ginger - hey, a good accompaniment to beer! Prawns are dipped in batter and given a coating of sesame seeds.  Cauliflower cuts are marinated with spicy masala and deep fried like in tempura.

There are vegetarian and chicken dishes labelled as Manchurian.  Besides the Bombay chili fish, prawn masala and the signature lamb curry, you get a host of so-called Chinese cuisine dishes ala the Sixties - sweet and sour, noodles, Mongolian, Fujian or Hokkien fried rice and honey chicken bites.

Harris Park, Sydney - Little India

Parramatta in New South Wales was settled by the British within a few months of landing at Sydney Cove.  Today, in an adjoining suburb, Harris Park is host to a multicultural group that has a third originating from the Indian sub-continent. Punjabi, Gujarati and Hindi are the predominant languages spoken, together with mainstream English.  Interesting enough, the average age of residents is only 30.   I have heard much from mates and in the media about Harris Park, so one boring weekend I did not resist when I had an opportunity to have lunch there. On approach, Harris Park may seem to be another ordinary western Sydney suburb, but on closer examination, I was impressed by the number of restaurants, the preserved architecture and design of dwellings and how life seemingly is centred around one junction - where Wigram and Marion Streets meet.  I can recall Dandenong in Victoria, north-west of Melbourne, with this similar hub of Indian-born migrants, with so many choices in curries, spicy condiments and more.

I also recall the hill station of Simla, with its British Raj inspired designs in buildings, and on my day of visit to Harris Park, it was a nippy Sunday afternoon chill.  The frangipanis had lost their leaves and were expectedly bare-branched, but this added more character to the place.  Lunch was held at the Chutney, with a buffet of two meat curries, basmati rice, naan bread and three vegetarian curries (including lentils and tofu).  The Chutney had many Indian families enjoying themselves that afternoon.

I must confess I had harboured thoughts of finding South Indian cuisine in Harris Park, but the commercial outlets still offered food, especially desserts, of the northern variety. Yes, there is the occasional appearance of Kerala fish curry and Tamil vegetarian curry on some menus, but what is more impressive is the availability of a diverse range of Indian sweet concoctions, anything from Kaju Burfi to Gulab Jamun and Pedas.  Correct me if I am wrong, but the image captured above suggests to me of the Besan Ladoo (besan being roasted gram flour).  The unique ice cream of Kulfi was also spotted.

In a neighbourhood where reformed ex-convict James Ruse was granted land to settle, Harris Park now is  a microcosm of the cultures found usually in south-western Asia.  Our Lady of Lebanon Maronite Church exemplifies the presence of historical manifestations from relatively recent migrants to this part of the world.  I also found a unique and petite Indian craft shop (photo above, to the right)with a patient looking man inside working attentively on his passion.  A major Hindu temple is  accessible at nearby Wentworthville.

The inevitable Indian mega pop star poster (above) can be a source of comfort, familiarity and joy to recent migrants.  Below, at the Taj Indian Sweets along Wigram Street, is what seems to be doughnut-like bites with garnishings of pistachio bits - yummy!

The sari shop (above ) can be the atypical illustration of an ethnic and unique cultural practice, but what captivated me was the front of the Ginger Indian Restaurant (image below), which seems to blend harmoniously elements of Australian cottage and country life with the lure of spices.