Ha Noi's Old Quarter

The streets and lanes are narrow, crowded and cluttered. The precinct oozes with every expectation and stereotype a visitor would expect from an Asian metropolis that bustles with trade, street affairs and people. One has to be reminded that this city of Ha Noi is the capital of a Communist state, but the business penchant and practice that is so evident in the Old Quarter comes from long traditions and establishments. Families actually live above their shops and every day a vibrant neighbourhood system, that intertwines livelihoods and strong community links, provides meaning and continuity to every resident.  The street names each and every time include the Vietnamese  word "Hang", which just means merchandise. I saw street plates with names like Pho Hang Buom, Pho Hang Chiew and Pho Hang Mam - Pho referring to a street.

Hang Bac is Silver Street, Hang Gai is Silk Street and Hang Tre is the Bamboo Street. In contemporary Ha Noi, some of these streets do now offer produce and products that vary from the original names. Still, Hang Huong, or Incense Street,has the lingering aromatic sweetness of joss sticks. To me, the Old Quarter is the original super market or department store and can have hidden delights if one takes the time to explore, listen and observe.  The Cha Ca La Vong, an eatery which specialises in a marinaded monkfish dish, has been operating for more than a hundred years, despite the change in political leaders, modernity and populations.  Fermented rice, saffron and galangal is mixed with the ever popular fish sauce to make this marinade.

Sailmakers Street or Hang Buom  is now laden with candies, sweet meats, freshly ground coffee and imported alcohol like brandies and whiskies.  Nothing beats getting the grassroots feel when visiting Ha Noi as staying in the Old Quarter.  Its central location and easy walking access to other interesting parts of the city centre (except for those around the West Lake) make it a magnet for tourists young and old. Perhaps the better way is to adapt to and learn crossing the roads in Vietnam first in Ha Noi rather than on the wider roads of Ho Chi Minh City in the country's south.

People rise early in the Old Quarter. Residing in a hotel there, I could hear the rising crescendo of activity, conversation and traffic as early as 6 am. Interesting items of note are roasted sour pork hash, pottery, meat jerky, grilled cuttlefish and jewellery. A few members of my group and I took an evening cyclo ride past shops and other fascinating retail outlets.  Above, a view from the upstairs of a well known coffee joint and below, heritage styled furniture grace guest accommodation. Pop up markets are set up after sunset.  The evening before I flew out of Vietnam, I had the opportunity to try the pho, the rice noodle soup that originates from Ha Noi.

The Dong Xuan Market is the oldest institution of its kind in Ha Noi. The Bach Ma Temple has a unique and magical White Horse.  Artisans have settled in this Old Quarter since the 11th century when a national celebrity Ly Thai To built his political capital here, the cherished Thang Long (Or Rising Dragon).  Today it is worth staying in or visiting the many tubular designed houses or stop by the Memorial House Museum, a tribute to merchant life of the past.  There were 36 original gates in this precinct, but only one remains intact today - the Quan Chong, or the Gate of the Commander of the Regiment.   Today the Old Quarter is also known locally as the 36 Streets, although others opine that the number 36 refers actually to the number of trade or craft guilds once having businesses in this area.  An interesting aspect of this historical area is that there used to be porridge sellers providing food to candidates who came from all over the country to sit for the imperial examinations nearby.

Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel - Ha Noi, Vietnam

The continuing hype is that Charlie Chaplin and Brad Pitt brought their beloved wives here, but it is true. The reality is an elegant and inspiring step back into the colonial past - in architecture, ambiance and arresting captivation. The experience is one of refined service, spacious environs and a touch of class.  There is an airiness in here that sets it definitely apart from the other parts of Ha Noi.  French can be heard spoken  in several conversations, as you sit on the lobby's Euro furniture, soaking in both the historical and present day ambiance or just waiting for your friends who are residing in the Metropole Hotel.
Above, noodles served in fine bone china complementing the the green house surroundings of the tea room at the Spices Garden, garnished by  a variety of local musts - basil leaves, chili cuts,  capsicum, onion slices and chicken.  Mrs Nguyen Thanh Van is currently the head chef presiding over three kitchens - and also serving the Angelina Restaurant & lounge, together with the Le Beaulieu Restaurant.

The underlying and over flowing theme is in white (pictures above and below), whether you view the rooms, with balconies and facade green window louvres, from outside, or when you look up from a dining or drinking table.  The Metropole has existed since 1901 and witnessed the various significant events and transitions in Vietnamese history of the 20th century.  Located in the Hoan Kiem District of the city centre, it is only a walk away from the Opera House and the Government Guest House (formerly the official residence of the colonial French Governor).

Well placed ceiling fans, exquisite touches of local pottery, cantilevered wooden windows, silk fabric cushions, dark wood paneling and French styled furniture (photo above) all help to build up a snug and comfortable feel even in the lobby itself.  Wrought iron is embellished to create a contrast with the comfortable soft hues and provide assurances  of stability and strength.  Ecological designed materials are used in the guest rooms, villas or suites, which stand out graced with lush curtains, pillow accessories and chateau-like colours.

There are lush green lawns maintained in the inner courtyards of the hotel. With 22 suites and 364 rooms, three separate bars, an outdoor heated pool and a rooftop garden, it does offer many choices.
Romance and business seem to be the two key selling points of the Metropole, in that they offer to guests the high standards required by both.  The buildings have not always been  in such a glorious state, having been left run down between 1954 and 1986, but now the Grand Old Dame is back in all its glory.

The La Terrasse Du Metropole (photo below) suits cool evenings and Parisian-inspired preferences for easy and informal meet ups. My own experience of eating at the Spice Gardens is one of quick and friendly service, all wrapped in a professionally trained manner and one that offers a realm of comfort and relaxation.

Vladimir Putin, actors like Noel Coward and Michael Caine and a host of writers, including Graham Greene and W. Somerset Maugham have graced this unique institution.  There can be comparisons with the Oriental in Bangkok, the Raffles in Singapore and the Eastern & Oriental in Penang, but the Metropole in Ha Noi to me is a class apart.

Ha Noi, Vietnam - City Vignettes

Above, in the early afternoon, a motor cyclist passes by a well maintained French styled colonial building in Ha Noi.  Below, the Presidential Suite at Hong Ngoc 2 Hotel in the Old Quarter.

Above, iced coffee, Viet fashioned, on small tables and with guests on low chairs, upstairs at a well patronised joint.
Below, buildings tend to have narrow fronts, long insides and border narrow streets  with overhead cables all over the place in the district known as 36 Streets or the Old Quarter, not far from Hoam Kien Lake.  The other major lake is the bigger West Lake, close to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and other government institutions.

Carved stone near the significant monument to a revered national figure, Ly Thai To, shows influences from China, Thailand and Cambodia, although all brought together with a niche Vietnamese feel (photo above).
Below, in a metropolis with at least 7 million people, Ha Noi's motor bikers are a varied lot- some with helmets, many using mobile phones whilst waiting at the set of lights, males observed also smoking whilst driving and some with covered mouth masks.

A placid and shady location (above)  with tourists strolling (below) along the shores of Hoam Kien Lake to survive the humidity of an early afternoon.  Ha Noi, sited in the north of Vietnam, does tend towards a more benign temperature in the winter  season of the northern hemisphere, especially when compared the country's tropical  south.

Ha Noi, Vietnam - Water Puppets

The Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre is a treat, with a performing arts form that is unique to Vietnam.  The theatre is located near the Hoan Kiem Lake, a gathering focal point for tai chi practitioners at dawn, strolling tourists and sitting locals in the afternoons and much vehicular traffic in the evenings.  Referred to as roi nuoc by the locals, water puppetry articulates themed plays symbolic of the tensions between  good and evil, illustrative of the history of the Viet peoples and demonstrative of the varied lifestyles and demographics in current day Vietnam.  The stage of water is usually four meters square and up to eight puppeteers are often involved in performances.

The ty ba, a light wood made instrument with four strings on its distinctive long neck, was played at our concert on a mid week evening, the final show of several during the day staged to packed audiences.  As evident in the accompanying photographs, this was not the only musical device or cultural accessory utilised.  The traditional singing of cheo ( a form of local opera) was pleasant, not jarring and the use of electronic screens with English subtitles is an excellent idea for the audience who come from diverse backgrounds.  Live music can be provided by an orchestra that uses cymbals, bamboo flutes, gongs,horns, wooden bells, the monochord and drums, all to back up the all important vocals.

Each performance was around an hour.   A captivating display of the puppets used can be viewed outside the auditorium.  The Thang Long troupe has performed around the world, including in Sydney, Australia. However, nothing beats enjoying the experience in its own locale.  The craft and art of puppets that dance on water originated in the Red River Delta in the northern part of Vietnam.  The wooden puppets are actually lacquered.