Batemans Bay NSW - The River Clyde

This scenery does remind me of Hoi An in central Vietnam, but it is on the NSW South Coast!

A vista of the river mouth at sunset.

Cruise boats, holiday makers, birds and the river.

Looking back at the Mara Mia Walkway, today lined with several cafes and restaurants, but always good for cycling and jogging.

The fish and shellfish, especially oysters, remain for harvest today.

Strewn rocks and carefully anchored yachts.

The light breaks through on an early morning before breakfast.

The long and straight pier.

A historical perspective at dusk.

2014 prices!

A cloudy and leaden twilight sky is reflected in the waters below.

The bridge that joins the northern and southern parts of Batemans Bay town is seen in the foreground.

Rick Stein's Bannisters - Mollymook, South Coast NSW

The forte of the man is fish and his passion is for fish and various cooking styles, whether in South-east Asia, India, Spain or in his native England.  Rick Stein is a television, culinary and book personality and was appointed the official  food Ambassador for the federation of Malaysia. He can be chatty, offer embracing smiles, make interesting observations and does not mind getting into the elements to emphasise the uniqueness of a food ingredient or the beauty of a place.  I reckon I am fortunate that I live at the start of the New South Wales South Coast - and only two hours drive away from my home is where I can find one of Stein's culinary ventures in the South Seas, Bannisters Restaurant is located in Mollymook at the end of the aptly named Bannisters Hall Road, adjoining the Bannisters accommodation for guests who live a hideaway and over looking the rather captivating and sometimes calm Tasman Sea.

Passing by the village of Milton, with fine  restaurants like the Bacchus and the Tipsy Fig, you turn left at the first major set of lights if you are coming from the north.   Then you follow your heart down the road leading to the coast.  What can you expect - England in the bush, a haven of Aussie produce or an oasis of a culinary adventure?  May be it is all of these.  When I last visited, the skies were cloudy but it was  a summery Sunday, temperature wise.  I had perceptions of fine dining, serious but attentive waiters and expensive prices.  I must say Bannisters has friendly and cheerful staff, who are also well trained and bother to mention to you the details and nuances of their various dishes.  It is fine dining that greet you at a place that does not open every day, offers a healthy spectrum of a menu and dishes that are priced and judged in the eyes of the beholder and diner.  They had just closed for a hiatus after the breakfast session on this weekend drop by, so arriving too early for the strict 1230pm opening for lunch meant hanging out down stairs at the Pool Bar.  When lunch time officially arrived at the Bannisters, the crowd was mainly Anglo-Celtic, possibly British or Australian retirees.

The dining room has a view, as it is located on an upper level of the building, with Ulladulla Bay outside beckoning you to a rather relaxing outlook.   Rick Stein does believe in utilising local produce - and so here you can have your choice of the South Coast oysters, Cootamundra beef, Hervey Bay scallops, Eden mussels, Tasmanian salmon or salt water barramundi.   Attention to detail
in garnishings and niche ingredients can be illustrated by the use of tamarind, tarragon, brocollini, sugar snaps, Pilau rice, Parmesan and foie-gras.   Mollymook, the site of Bannisters, has a rather enchanting and clean long beach, a village-like community and an atmosphere of summer crowds and winter quiet.  I was not too impressed with the look, inside or outside, of the motel-like guest rooms.
The day spas were rather quiet that Sunday.

Lunch is served on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays - this can be important to know, for passer-by visitors who are not staying overnight.  I plan to try their breakfast. I am told that must haves are the Indonesian seafood curry cooked with squid, king prawns and the subtle Ling fish.   Standards like the lobster Thermidor , pan fried fish plus fish and shell fish soup are in the menu.  I chose the Bannisters fish pie, with a rather interesting crusty top and with yummy scallops, mushrooms, prawns and three types of fish ( snapper, salmon and barramundi) inside.  I wonder if you canobtain this dish back in the original Rick Stein restaurant in Padstow, Cornwall in merry old England, but perhaps not with the barramundi included.

I eyed the Madras curry at another table, served with Blue Eye Trevalla, but we did not ask how that went with the guests.

I absolutely adored and loved my entree choice of the grilled Hervey Bay scallops served on the shell - the best thing about this dish was the exquisite and light gravy juice, served with toasted hazelnut and coriander butter.   Perhaps my expectations had then been raised -  and after the  mains, we were rather full on in the stomach as well.  There is a selection of cheeses like the Saint Agur from Auvergne, the Buche Noir made with goat's milk from the Blue Mountains in New South Wales itself and the Farmhouse Cheddar from the United Kingdom.  I then had to make a moderate choice of an Affagato.   At the Pool Bar, I was told about the rather lively nights during the high tourist season, but I also realised how it can be so cosy on winter evenings as well for lovers and other couples.

Licensed, Bannisters offers an impressive variety of wines by the glass or bottle, with carefully made options from estates and vineyards in Europe and Australia.   Parking is rather liberal on the rough and ready ground near the ocean, as those near the resident rooms themselves can be limited in space.   Some people think this place can be too inaccessible, or just a place to visit only once.   Others may make it a regular stop along the way on the road trip to somewhere else.   It is  place to de-stress.  There are no heliport pads to fly in or piers for boats to  navigate to, only land access  - and a vehicle is essential.

Bannisters at Mollymook, NSW South Coast, is around a three hour drive south from the Sydney Harbour Bridge.  It is about two hours by road south of Wollongong and 45 minutes north of Batemans Bay (or over  two hours from Canberra).

Starfish Deli - Batemans Bay, South Coast NSW

Batemans Bay is a holiday and lifestyle place, attracting visitors and residents of all ages - and an easy going, popular joint is the Starfish, with its many tables, split level floors and its open glass views of the Clyde River and its iconic bridge that links both sides to north and south.  For the first time in as many years I found the Coke Spider (photo above), full with foamy ice cream kick and the essential combination with a soft drink that is still holding its spell after a long time.

The place was chock a block during my visit to Starfish, but the staff were coping well despite this busy Sunday night.  The menu is family friendly.  I did find my serving of pork belly a tad rich in fat, but the good blend of gravy made up for this, reminding me of Thai and Vietnamese influences.  Many groups had converged at this deli cafe restaurant that evening - and it was also popular at lunch time.  Its casual and holiday feel have struck a chord with its guests.  I would like to try its wood fired pizzas, seared scallops  and Greek salads on my next potential visit.  Its specialty is the rock oysters harvested locally. the presence of haloumi, bruschetta and cured meats reveal influences from another sea, another place.  I also recommend the seafood shared platter. Bon appetit!

The Blank Canvas Restaurant - Batemans Bay, South Coast NSW

My first encounter with the veg burger at the Blank Canvas - underpinned by Mediterranean headiness, strong flavours and beautiful avocado.

Along the Murra Murra Mia Walk, beside a calming Clyde River, I find an iconic encapsulation of what it feels to be like in Batemans Bay.  It is mid-January and the cares of the world float up and seep away in the quietness of the gentle waters.  Then I notice a chalk written board,  placed outside a corner restaurant inviting any passers-by to divert and take a rest.  Why is it called the Blank Canvas, I wonder. Is this a casual place, or one that offers more than just a holiday version of modern Australian, or one where a guest is accepted with care, whether one is dressed down or up?

The interiors are inviting, with cool wood and shaded tones, especially in the evenings, when candle light suggests a different and even more inviting ambiance.  There are Mediterranean influences in the gourmet options and yet at the same time guests can have their burgers and steak too.  It is open from 830am, usually from Wednesdays to Sundays in the winter season but have food available till late evenings even on Mondays and Tuesdays in the height of summer.  Staff are attentive and engaging - and there is nothing like having  a chat with them and noticing a different and more positive atmosphere when compared with some capital city operations.  The men behind the kitchen counter are cocooned inside, but the staff on the front line, including Tammie, the female half of the couple owners, talk to you as if they are your friendly neighbours.

Tuesday evening at a cosy place with an innovative menu and vibrant choices.

Twilight on a January visit, just outside the restaurant, looking over the mouth of the Clyde River meeting the open ocean.

Use with careful thought of ingredients feature in the menu options. Add touches like sweet potato crisps, fresh salads and Bearnise sauce. The selection of seafood reflects the local produce.  There is  a range of pastas and risotto.   You can have a simple preference or try some of the more creative combinations and all are crafted under the direction of Chef Chrischen.  Our lunchtime meal was graced by the out going personality of Josh that day.   The relative spaciousness of placed tables and an option to wait on a sofa inside added to a bonus.

Crunchiness and freshness - a lunch idea with bite, flavour and mix.

Seating is provided outside for guests to watch the world go by, including the pleasure or fishing boats first anchored close to shore in the dawn hours and later chugging back in the sunset.  Evening time sees the restaurant transformed with a clever combination of low lighting and a choice of cocktails.   The Blank Canvas can also be accessed from the inner Orient Street and has an address at the Annetts Arcade.   A hidden delight to me is the Golden Bean Rainforest Alliance blend of Numero Uno coffee that they serve with pride from mornings onwards.   If you go for a run or cycle ride along the foreshores of the Clyde River, this is a recommended stop afterwards. The Blank Canvas can stand out against the variety of fast foods and sandwich cafes that dot the town centre hub of Batemans Bay in this respect.  The Canvas take more care with their food, customer engagement and seating choices.  My own experience there did not encounter delays in having my chosen dishes and orders come to the table.  As it is located only with a ground floor, the place is easily accessible.

My morning cuppa of cappuccino at the Blank Canvas.

Sunrise at the pier jutting out river side, captured whilst walking to the Blank Canvas for an early breakky.

Efficient and friendly Josh made  a suggestion for me to try another cocktail after the Midori.

Spring rolls with a twist as to the inside - an illustration of fusion creativity, utilising goat's curd inside and fresh rocket as a backdrop in presentation.

Eggs Benedict with Hollandaise sauce and a well done plus juicy grilled tomato.

Perhaps akin to the scenery outside, the Blank Canvas allows you to paint and compose the kind of experience you want to have at different times of the day or night.  A few of us from work had a casual lunch within sight of its peppercorn tree and a kaffir lime bush.  Breakfast opens up all the senses as gently as the light shining through over the Bay.  Evening time can be elegant, private or group based as you prefer.  I find it is also a good place to chat, with an unobtrusive feel and something to consider visiting even if you are residing further up or down the coast, or coming form Canberra.  There are few seagulls, if any, on my visit there recently, to disrupt your meal when seated outdoors.

The Tipsy Fig - Milton, South Coast NSW

You are almost close to reaching Ulladulla down the NSW South Coast, after around three hours drive from the Big Smoke of Sydney. In Ulladulla Harbour, young men still swim out to retrieve a cross thrown by the Orthodox priest as part of year start festivities and rituals - and you a re so far away from the Greek Isles.   Summer is a busy time for holiday makers, school children and families spending some chill out time - and they all seem to converge, like honey bees to a pot, at Milton Village, just before Ulladulla if you come from the north.  You cannot miss this out, the parked cars by the single main road, the throngs of holiday makers enjoying a bit of lunch or shopping and with an almost carnival air.  In the middle of it all, tucked away in a shopping green is the Tipsy Fig.

With  a mix of modern Australian fare, friendly staff welcome guests to sit in the green house like covered verandah with an almost perfect view of watching the surrounding shops.   Many could be there just passing by on the way further south or north, but I noted that all guests looked relaxed and enjoyed the best of both Australian produce and a bright ambiance about the place.  Staff took the effort to explain the vagaries and details of dishes.  I felt like in a garden setting on a day with no care, even if I had things to do later on after a quick rest for lunch.   Milton does not face the sea as it has cliffs nearby but reminds me of a typical English countryside feel.  I am sure during winter there is another kind of cosy atmosphere provided.  Also open for dinner, corkage is charged at the Tipsy Fig but I enjoyed a respite here after driving for a while.  The restaurant is open for both lunch and at night only from Wednesdays to Saturdays.

I thoroughly enjoyed the brandy snaps with perfect strawberries.   The local antiques lady further up the main road had recommended me another place to eat but this was closed that afternoon.  Instead I was delighted to discover this easy gem in the Fig.  A turn off nearby takes you to the excellent beach of Mollymook.  Both seafood and meats feature in the menu at the Fig, with light salads in interesting combinations.  Would I return?  A definite yes, for the way the Fig settles guests in with not just good choices but more importantly in an over all good feel!

Batemans Bay, NSW - Getaway Evening

Batemans is a lifestyle point on the South Coast of New South Wales, perhaps a third of the way ocean side from Sydney to Melbourne, definitely a summer gathering place for worn out city folk and twenty somethings wanting their share of surf, sun and slumber. Sited on the estuary of the Clyde River, the town is the largest on the NSW coast south of Nowra and the Shoalhaven. The Princes Highway bridge linking to the town has enabled more traffic from the north, perhaps a dubious decision to townsfolk who treasure their solitude and peace.  Canberrans also flock to the Bay as their nearest practical beach site, away from the oppressive temperatures of the inland Australian capital.  Named by Lt James Cook in 1770, Batemans boasts good oysters, unspoilt coastlines, interesting trekking possibilities and deep sea fishing.  In classic Australian stereotyped expectations from foreigners, yes, there also reside koalas, kangaroos, wallabies, parrots, bandicoots and possums.  Nearby Mogo has a zoo and mountains with names like Pigeon House beckon inland.  Batemans itself has a Birdland Animal Park and a golf course.  The nearest local airport is at Maruya to the south, around 45 minutes drive away.

I had the opportunity to spend an evening at Corrigan's Cove, located between the suburbs of Catalina and Batehaven when one drives along the coastal road. The accommodation stood out as being clean, well thought of and very comfortable.  The bed especially was a winner, high-ended, with fluffy pillows and with a flat TV monitor strategically placed for the ideal line of sight.  The bath had toiletries normally found in a  five star hotel. Morning breakfast offered a complimentary choice of cereal and coffee or tea, but if you prefer, cooked hot breakky only costs ten dollars.  Corrigan's is not far from the Batemans Bay High School, but in the other direction, guests can stroll, run or cycle along Beach Road beside sweeping bay views.  There are local cafes and restaurants within walking distance of the Cove, with ample vehicle parking space on the grounds of the resort.

Batemans is part of the Eurobodalla Shire and can have chilly nights in the southern hemisphere winter season.   That is when the pool decks at Corrigan's Cove can be empty (below) but there is always a cosy balcony to sip, sit and stare (photo above).   There are isles in the Bay itself, like the Tollgate. Montague Island, sited off Narooma further south, boasts Australian fur seals.  To the north, there is Mollymook, hosting Brit chef Rick Stein's Bannisters Seafood Restaurant; Jervois Bay National Park; the small fishing village of Milton; and Ulladulla.

There Are Places

There are places I remember.....

Above: The Harbour at Ulladulla, NSW South Coast.


All my life

Above: A corner of Sydney's emerald Harbour.

Above: Mollymook's enchanting and panoramic views.

All these places have their moments, I still can recall......

                       Above:  A placid change to Manly Beach, north of Sydney,on a week day.

I've loved them all........

                           Above:  Rosie,who dropped by every morning at the Henley Point townhouse.



Lyric Credits from the composition "All My Life" by Chantal Kreviazuk and inspired by the singing of Jose Feliciano