Gorgeous Gu Lang Yu - Architecture and Ambiance

The reef surrounding Gu Lang Yu Isle gave the origins as to its classic Chinese name, which means "Drum Wave Island".  The nature of the reefs contributed to the shape of the rolling waves.    The island is reached by a  short ferry ride from Xiamen, taken from Heping for the local ferry, or from Dongdu for the so-called foreigner's or tourist ferry service.

   This  small island had played an important role in the relationships between the Western powers, particularly the United Kingdom, France and the United States of America, with a China still under dynastic Qing rule in the 19th century.  Its proximity to rich seafood sourcing grounds, valuable tea plantations in the hinterland of Fujian Province and the north side of the South China Sea seemed to have determined its history.   National hero Zheng  Cheng Gong ( or referred to as Koxinga by the West) stands out in local sentiment in defending the political, regional and military interests of the Ming Dynasty for southern China.  You can visit the Full Moon Garden on the isle and there is an impressive statue honouring him and his achievements for China.

The nearby city of Xiamen, becoming a treaty port for Western powers in the first half of the 19th century, had tremendous consequences for Gu Lang Yu.    Dynastic China was defeated in the First Opium War and this resulted in the unequal terms of the Treaty Of Nanking in 1842, beginning an epoch of national, military and cultural humility that resonates strongly even today in the Chinese psyche and mindset,  especially when dealing with world affairs.    Thirteen foreign nations, including Holland, Japan and France,  combined to exert its political authority on Gu Lang Yu becoming an international settlement - imagine that happening to the Isle of Wright or Nantucket Island.


The British took the leading involvement in transforming the isle, constructing Euro styled buildings that organised the town area of Gu Lang Yu.   This third largest island off the coast of Xiamen began to see transformation that had occurred to various other outposts of colonial power like in Penang, the Caribbean, Malta, Gilbratar, Colombo and Shanghai.  Hong Kong began new life as a British settlement in 1842.    From political colonisation came greater efforts in missionary work of the Protestant and Catholic Churches, evident in the 21st century on the isle - Xiamen historically is where Protestantism successfully first arrived in  China and embedded its influence.

A delightful and surprising feature of Gu Lang Yu is the passion for pianos amongst its residents and it is estimated that there is a piano on the island for every 29 residents.    Most of them are rather old, originating from a strong taking up of the instrument in the first half of the 20th century.    Two of China's well known pianists, Xu Feiping and Yin Chengzong, hail from Gu Lang Yu.


I also observed wooden panelled guitars in shops.   Westernised music influences sat side by side with traditional music of the Hokkiens.  You can hunt for records from the Sixties and still enjoy a live rendition of the Pipa in a cosy hall with a stage assemble of experienced  musicians with their traditional Eastern instruments.   We did feel the silence of the ages at times in certain aspects of the island, particularly along the lanes that harked back to a religious past.   The rhythm of Nature can be felt on the breezy sandy shores of a beach.    

There are many young people curious enough to visit Gu Lang Yu.  If you ponder over the map of eastern Asia, this isle can be its geographical centre.    Millions of people with rising purchasing power levels and income live at its door step.   It has a relatively warm climate,  contemporary trading routes continue to thrive and its industrious people have contributed a great deal to the development of south-east Asia.   How the geopolitics between West and East play out can have repercussions to Gu Lang Yu and Xiamen.   Both places have witnessed the opportunities and pitfalls of a nation which historically have looked inwards,  balanced the challenges and benefits of rising Western powers coming to their shores and always reaffirmed themselves with the concept of a Chinese family. 


Gu Lang Yu may not be sited near the Great Wall to the north but intrinsically understands its vital role on the southern borders of a huge nation like China.

Shades of Spain, England, Holland, China, Japan, Portugal and Italy can be felt in the design and shape of the heritage buildings found around Gu Lang Yu.    The Portuguese first reached Xiamen,  itself an island, in 1541.  Some pre-date the British Victorian era, others are so obviously so.   We find ourselves walking around plazas reminiscent of Macau, Rome and Lisbon.     The isle is relatively clean, especially the grounds of heritage mansions, where you can dwell in enjoying the patterns of well laid out tiles, the angles of partitions, the frescoes that peek at you when you least expect them and in the airy corridors with porticos and balconies.


We found ourselves entering gardens, pavilions, doorways and staircases from another era.   The buildings are well preserved, having escaped the ravages of war time bombings, tropical cyclones and political events.    Visitors may fancy themselves caught in a time warp.   More than this, I also felt the vibes of a community and a village atmosphere.   For many across the world who are now caught in a rather unwelcoming city environment, Gu lang Yu reminds them that there is an alternative.  It is also a place where the past is appreciated better, the present is more balanced and the future, however, is dependent on others.

The Jinmen Islands, which are administered by Taiwan, lie only around six kilometres from Xiamen City.   Xiamen itself was known by other names, notably Amoy , and also in the 17th century as Siming or Remembering the Ming  (Dynasty).    


Will Gu Lang Yu continue to play a significant part in the affairs of mankind in the future?   I do not see any current digital push in its pulse, but China as a nation is transforming in leaps and bounds.  What other industry can Gu Lang Yu see itself as it leaps into the 21st century   - for now revenues are earned mainly on tourism and a hark for the past.   Its future is definitely tied in inevitably with the role of Xiamen, which has three reputable universities,  a full fledged airline and a solid cultural base.

We did not make it to Sunlight Rock  or the nearby Shuzhuang Chinese Gardens. Attribute this to the rainy aspect that day, or we had almost run out of steam walking around the various sights on an unusually interesting isle.    Gu Lang Yu is under two square kilometres in size and has a heart that is so much bigger that leaves good memories for its visitors.   The island is also extraordinary in banning vehicular traffic, only allowing electric run buggies to run on its cobbled stoned lanes and otherwise tarred roads.


A day's visit to Gu Lang Yu does not do it justice in appreciating what it can offer.   The wealth of culture, history and lifestyle on the island at times do require soaking in a few days of stay.   Just the seafood makes me want to linger further.   Most of all is the pleasure to interact with people, whether they may be tourists, residents or working there.   It is worth having a guide with knowledge and passion like we were fortunate to have - Ms. Khaw.  

Hakka Toulou - Nanjing County, Fujian Province

Out of around three thousand, there were 46 sites of the Fujian Toulou declared as of UNESCO world heritage status  in 2008, found in the south eastern corner of Fujian in southern China.  The topography and living environment here is mostly pristine, nestled amongst the hills and higher ground when compared with the coast.


These are the locations of unusual earthen constructions, many of them circular or rectangular  in shape and up to three or five stories high, which have been in history and currently the homes of the Hakkas, a distinct community driven south from central China by the wars, conflicts and political developments of China.   Hakkas, also known in Mandarin as the Ke Jia Ren or  "guest people", have achieved a record of survival, prosperity and determination.


The modernisation of the nation in economic and cultural terms, especially in the past 25 years, has witnessed less people residing in them as social pressures and personal  drive to improve a standard of living drive many to the cities instead of inducing them to remain in the country side.    Previously, when a family or clan grew in size, it was the customary practice to build an outer layer outside the original cluster, therefore providing an organic growth of the Toulou complex.

A day spent walking the various trails around the Toulou is a wonderful experience, not just in absorbing a different culture, but in appreciating that there is still clean air in parts of China, in soaking in the agricultural lifestyle and in having an opportunity to enjoy the local cuisine.    The produce is organic, especially in the vegetables and chickens.   There were many tourists strolling around in the Toulou area we chose to visit - Nanjing County in Fujian Province of China.

The boisterous van driver we engaged, Mr. Zhang, came as unique as we had hoped to encounter  - he is humorous, down to earth and hard working.  He deftly drove us past steep cliffs by the roadside, quarrelled with a potential banana seller and  was just full of personal energy.  Mr. Zhang has his hometown in Wuyi Shan, in north Fujian, but he is based in Xiamen, the bustling Hokkien city on the coast.

The Toulou are particularly shaped and designed to protect its residents from wild animals, bandits and dangers of any kind.    The circular shape of the building has a hollow middle, which allows for light to come in straight from the sky and for human activity to be carried on never the less of what is happening outside.   I am reminded of Stonehenge being filled up into a viable village round shaped town square.   The high ramparts all around this type of building allow for residents to look out for dangers from afar the horizon and landscape.   Water wells are provided within the safe area.  Stairs up and down the various floors are made of wood, otherwise everything else comes in stone and rammed earth.


The residents  live in unit styled rooms which remind me of contemporary flats or apartments in modern day cities.   The closeness with which residents carry out their daily lives can be disconcerting for personal privacy and yet can nurture a closeness in community relations.   They are all in for this together, which can facilitate co-operation and a better social order.    I am reminded of the adage of three generations living under one roof, coming to reality in this classic and innovative designed living style.

Three of us had said hello to a family, with the infant first catching our eye.   

Grandma was friendly, introducing us to her daughter,a young woman who already has become a mother. Their eyes sparked brightly, with a  kind of hope and promise.   Would living here be much better than residing in a contemporary faceless block with even more people, with even more floors?   I reckon it depends on what they choose to be their way of earning a living.  A farming life with livestock may not appeal anymore in China's rush to greater purchasing power and a digital tech environment.

This way of life may have served its past purpose, but now there are new frontiers to conquer, new challenges in different forms and an opportunity to break away from the past.   What little or much is earned from tourism can be difficult to sustain, and so many Toulou areas compete for this same dollar.    There is a dire need to strategically plan and implement the way forward - should the Toulou constructions be significantly repaired and maintained going forward?   It is one issue to look and remain quaint, but the serious question about these residences affect the future livelihoods of the people living there. Some have a fair measure of modern amenities and all have been observed to have good ventilation and lighting in their designs.

I was fascinated by the various square shaped windows that dot the steep vertical walls of each Toulou.   They remind me of possible military applications.   Each Toulou building surely is the cumulative effort, idea and patience of generations of resident families.  I also noted that no matter how big or small these earthen fort like constructions are, they only have one entrance and exit.  Residents can obviously have the same surname.


Each Toulou has a definite layout and no nails are used in its building up.  The central courtyard is dedicated to a shared worshipping spot and a well.   Guests are received on the first floor, where logically you have the kitchen, living room and dining areas.  Bedrooms and storage spaces are located on upper floors.   There are stone or wooden benches on the ground floor, used by residents or tourists alike.


We were greeted by an enthusiastic young lady who showed us how the rammed earth bricks are made.  This was in a compact museum like room displaying the tools, equipment and results of the process.  The walls of a completed Toulou are thick,  an outcome of mixing limestone, earth , wood, bamboo and padi field clay.   Most of what we can see and visit today were built in the last three hundred years, the most recent ones dating from the 1970s.   They are said to be even earth quake proof, a very useful feature, and are warm in winter and cooling in summer.

There were high and low moments on our day excursion this time.  An elderly lady sitting outside a dilapidated Toulou was shouting out incessantly for money to be paid if we wanted to enter that specific building, and nearby we were charged entry fees to use the toilets.  The high point was coming across a free flowing river, even if it was relatively shallow, and this scenic spot had a bridge to transverse and use for photographic opportunities.


I distinctly remember the massaging effects on our feet on walking for long periods on cobble stoned paths in this Toulou area.   We also chanced upon a bar when looking for a washroom.   Many tourists we encountered came from within China itself, including the two young women who helped us take photographs.   I fondly recall the yellow skinned organic chicken poached for our lunch in a tourist stop just before we headed to the hills.   Getting out of Xiamen proper, we had stopped to saviour bananas of all sizes and colours, especially the yummy red skinned types.    I observed how rich the soil is when approaching Nanjing County.

As with the main communities who have made southern China their home, many Hakkas have migrated overseas, especially to south-east Asia, but also to Europe, Canada, Australia, the UK, the USA, the Indian sub-continent, Suriname and Timor-Leste.  In the Malay Peninsula,  two well known Kapitan Cinas of the 19th century were Yap Ah Loy of Kuala  Lumpur and  Chung Keng Quee of Perak and Penang. 


In Taiwan, it is estimated almost every one out of five residents has a Hakka background - their most well known political  son is past President Lee Teng Hui.  Most of the Chinese in Sabah, Mauritius and Reunion have a Hakka heritage.  Solomon Ho Choy had the distinction of being appointed Governor in Trinadad and Tobago, the first non-white to do so in the whole of the British Empire.   San Yu, President of Mynamar in the 1980s, was of Hakka background.  


This community had many ardent  supporters of the Communist Revolution in the 20th century.       In China, three Hakka individuals from history come to mind -  Hu Yao Bang, Chairman of the Chinese Communist Party in 1981 and 1982, and General Secretary of the aforesaid Party from 1982 to 1987;  Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, founder of the Republic of China in 1911, which terminated dynastic rule; and  Hong Xiu Quan, the leader of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom Christian political movement in the middle of the 19th century.


Two Prime Ministers of Singapore, the late Lee Kuan Yew and his son, Lee Hsien-loong and General Ne Win of Burma have Hakka connections.

Suffolk House Restored, Georgetown Penang

A Bridge too near - over a creek running beside the restored Suffolk House.

The Captain came from not the aristocrat, but from an adopted middle class family in mid 18th century England.His second son as a Surveyor General was responsible for  the beginnings of what was to become modern day Adelaide.  The life of Francis Light is not very well known, but his legacy impacted on at least three nations.  To me, Light's skills in political negotiation, dealing well with unknown cultures and sense of adventure were the most important things about the man.  My primary school attended was named after this founder of Georgetown, on a tropical isle whose value located along the trading routes was not realised until a Brit guy seized the opportunity, established a settlement out of the jungle and never looked back.  Captain Francis Light embraced the unknown, seized the future and worked on advancing an opportunity not just for himself but paved the way for immigrants from China, India, Thailand, Sumatra and Burma to carve out a new  and better life.  Light was the son of William Negus and his servant girl Mary Light.  The eventual  founder of the colony of Singapore, Sir Stamford Raffles, had first arrived in the region working in Penang.

Tropical practicality - open air verandahs, louvred doors and hanging lamps.

Only ten years after the American Declaration of Independence in 1776 was the colony of Georgetown on Penang Island founded by Light. There are the stories of how the Captain ordered for sovereign coins to be dispersed by cannon on to thick bush to motivate people to clear the jungle fast.  Francis was born in Dallinghoo in Suffolk (East Anglia) in the mother country and before arriving in Penang, was based as a trader in Salang in Phuket Island in nearby Siam.  This must have been where he met his future wife, Martinha Rozells, a woman of both Portuguese and Siamese heritage and later, mother to Colonel William Light. Martinha was Catholic and posed a potential issue to the Church of England, to which Francis belonged to.  Apparently, the marriage was never declared to the English authorities.  Captain Light had three daughters (Ann, Sarah and Mary)  and two sons (William and Francis Lanoon) with Martinha.

A Francis Light II passed away in Taiping in 1906, whilst an Augusta Victoria Light survived in Penang itself until 1972.  Not much recognition is given in modern day Malaysia for the Captain's efforts, but he is buried at the Protestant Cemetery along Northam Road.  William Light was born in Kuala Kedah on the mainland of the Malayan peninsular across from Penang island but was sent to England at the age of six years old.  The Lights are also linked to the Bain family in the 20th century.

In the early 19th century, it was the fashion to retire to writing, reading and reflecting in the drawing room at the end of a the day.

The original residence, located on the inner outskirts of Georgetown, along the banks of the Black River (Air Itam), is said to be occupied by the first Light family in south-east Asia, and then sold to William Edward Phillips, who constructed the Georgian styled mansion we often visualise as Suffolk House. Francis Light and his family in fact occupied a construction made more of attap and timber, but did maintain pepper gardens in the vicinity.  Edwards later became a Governor of this Prince of Wales Island, the official name of the settlement until 1876 (the year the British Straits Settlements was established with Malacca and Singapore).  Suffolk House was occupied by a series of Governors.  The political base of the Settlements then shifted to a more prosperous and strategic Singapore.  Suffolk House then came under the ownership of Penang local Lim Cheng Teik, a millionaire trader, before being passed for a sum of 40,000 Straits Settlement dollars to the Reverend P.L. Peach of the Methodist Church of Malaya.

A cuppa of tea, cakes and a cigar box - the vibes of the early colony for the new aristocrats of the island settlement.

Captain Light had obtained possession of Penang Island from the Sultan of Kedah without informing the British East India Company.  This oversight was uncovered when the military protection Light promised the Sultan from the British did not eventuate when Kedah was attacked by the Siamese. The history of Penang inevitably became intertwined with the Siamese kingdom, British colonial influence over the Malay States on the mainland and the focus of immigration, trade and stability for people fleeing unstable times in China and India.   Penang's ambitions as a vital port and middleman power was realised for many years, until it had to concede this position to Singapore at the southern end of the Straits of Malacca. Like Singapore, however, Penang attracted many immigrants of Chinese origin from southern China, especially  Fujian, Hainan and Guangdong.  There was also an overflow of Chinese  already in nearby Perak (Taiping and Ipoh) and who were there earlier due to the tin mining boom.  It is said that when the United States of America closed the doors on East Asians entering after the heady days of the California Gold Rush, the Chinese began to focus on south-east Asia to escape the dire economic conditions of the last dynasty (the Qing).

The table setting for a formal meal  - later replicated by the Straits Chinese, who adored the British as a community - as the Tok Panjang (or literally, long table) for festive gatherings.

A walk around the restored residence and grounds of the Suffolk House today would impress on visitors the detailed attention given in the renovations undertaken in the past few years.  History is always interpreted and preserved by those in current political power - and if not for the perseverance and funding from a select non-government group in Penang and the SACON Heritage Unit from Adelaide,  the modern version of Suffolk House would not have seen the light of day.  When the place began its period of decay, the building was still utilised to hold classes and operate as a day canteen for students of the nearby Methodist Boys School.

Today all has been transformed, although some locals observe why some specific rooms are never open to the public.  The upper floor actually collapsed many years ago due to the sheer weight of neglect and  lack of monies for repairs.  Henry and I visited Suffolk House on a rather moist refreshing morning during a week of periodic but rather torrential rain.   I reckoned this was the best time to explore its gardens, when flora was utmost green and must have echoed more of the climate more than 250 years ago.  Suffolk House was the winner of the UNESCO Asia-pacific Heritage Awards in 2008.

The lawns and grounds of Suffolk House.

At the ball room on the upper floor, with a bust of Captain Francis Light - it is said that the facial countenance represented here was more of his son Colonel William Light.

Polished floorboards bring us back to evenings when Suffolk House was a centre of social and political activity.

Model of the restored residence  and significant function house.

Mansions and bungalows tend to have this arched porch in an architectural design doted across Penang Island . especially Georgetown, inherited from the 19th and early 20th centuries.

High tea options surrounded by foliage not far from downtown Georgetown.

Apart from dropping by inside a small souvenir room, front reception landing and walk around rooms, visitors can also try meals, including high tea, at the restaurant on the ground floor and at the back of Suffolk House. The operators have been doing this for several years and the menu is influenced by both past and present concepts of fine dining.  The menu includes a variety of both Eastern and Western creations.  Interesting was the availability of Nespresso coffee varieties.  Afternoon tea commences at 230pm, with three-tiered trays of  freshly made single serve chicken pies, scones, cakes and cucumber and salmon sandwiches.  Accompanying preserves offered include tangy apple ginger compote, strawberry and pineapple marmalade.

Vista outside the restaurant window. 

I admired the timber floorings, the high ceilings and the lovingly finished detail.  The young Indian woman who opened the souvenir section for us was friendly and informative.  She hails from Kuala Lumpur and also mentioned about her personal blog site.   I found Suffolk House tranquil, eye-opening and a refuge from modern society.  It is a corner of England from the past, hopefully sufficiently embraced by the present and a gem to preserve for the future.  Those in charge can consider holding staged performances, strengthening personalised or group guided tours and having community based groups learn about this fascinating and rich past of Penang.  It is a settlement that was established before Sydney.

Fine dining possibilities - but is the jury still out on the food and value?

Suffolk House today as you approach it from the front.

Music is the refuge of the heart and soul, away from the ordinariness of life.

A perfect place to while away a moist and cloudy afternoon in Penang Island.

Memories of old England - with touches of the Far East.

Suffolk House is located at 250 Air Itam Road, 10460 Penang in Malaysia.

Tan Dinh Cathedral - Saigon, Vietnam

With a strong Gothic, Roman and Baroque style plus obvious French roots, the 136 year old Tan Dinh Cathedral along Hai Ba Trung in District 3 in Saigon glows  - from the distance and close up - with a distinctive and elegant presence and stature. I was fascinated with the gabled roofs, its tower standing at 52.6 meters, a bronze cross, sizable gardens, fish scaled roof tiles, strong porticoes and its obvious pink outer walls.  There is a school on its grounds and also a statue of Christ with out stretched arms.

Inside the Cathedral, there are shrines to Saint Therese of Lisieux, Saint Martin de Porres and also to Catholic martyrs of Vietnamese background.  The layout of pews, richly stained windows, arched columns and some austere non-trappings are all evocative of Catholicism and yet evoke another time, another place.

Tan Dinh is near by the Pasteur Institute, the Tan Dinh Markets and the Women's Museum.  The nearby markets offer a variety of fascinating produce, live, dried and fresh.  Binh Tay and Ben Tanh are examples of other popular markets in Saigon, referred to as cho.  The picture below shows a view of Hai Ba Trung in Saigon, standing from the front of the Cathedral.