My Son, Central Vietnam

The grandeur and extent of Hindu based empires in south-east Asia  from long ago may be understated in the current make up of the countries that make up ASEAN today. Echoes and suggestions of this significant past influence can only be reminded to us when we visit Bagan in Burma, Ayuthaya in Thailand, Borobudur in Java and the Angkor Wat in Kampuchea.  My early history school books did mention about the Champa Kingdom that extended from the 4th to the 14th centuries AD throughout most of what is referred to as IndoChina in contemporary times. So with eagerness, I relished the opportunity to explore the collection of sizable ruins and remains of tower temples at My Son in Central Vietnam (south-west of Da Nang).  Sanskrit and Cham languages were heavily used in this hub of religious and political practice, with around seventy structures existing at the height of the power of the Champa Kingdom.  "My Son" in the Vietnamese language simply means "beautiful mountain".

My Son is primarily dedicated to the devotion to the Hindu deity Shiva, under the form of the Linga and under the name Bhadresvara.  King Bhadravarman who ruled from 380 to 430 AD had a special plea to his successors "Out of compassion for me don't destroy my gifts."   It is with sad irony that the ruins were further damaged by American B52 fighter planes when engaging militarily with  the Vietcong in the sixties last century.  The area also witnessed significant intrusions from the Chinese from up north, notably by General Liu Fang in 605 AD, and to military encounters with the Viet.  Most of the standing buildings today originate from around the tenth century AD.  Rediscovered by a Frenchman, M.C. Paris in 1898, the site had been reclaimed by the tropical jungles after the advent of the Viet  - and the Chams themselves had transformed to a different culture and some of whom are Muslims today.  My Son's  restoration is mostly supported by the governments of Italy and Japan.

Key icons of the Champa Kingdom include the elephants (photo of their motifs above) and a rich cultural heritage, as exemplified by the show put on for modern day tourists (picture below).

My Son also offers a much appreciated walk in the forest, away from the high density regions in Vietnam, away from the hordes of fast moving motor bikes on city roads and engaging with the atmosphere more akin to the Central Highlands of Vietnam. A gateway (below picture) is only one of varied features of architecture you can examine and feel - there are causeways, long passages, shrine halls, gate towers, fire houses and more.  A kalan is a bricked sanctuary used typically to house a deity.

Remains of altars in both pictures above and below are only a shade of what it must have looked like centuries ago.  There is an internal gallery at D2, which offers in one spot a collection of the main artifacts.

The buildings that remain in My Son were made of red brick, with only one designated as B1 constructed from stone.  An intriguing question is how were the bricks were held together, as no mortar can be evidently seen as not utilised (photo above). Important messages were inscribed on steles and they often relate to commemorations of gifts made to God, whether they are foundations made for altars, pedestals or temples, or community acts such as gifts of treasures or land. . 

There is also a Museum of Cham Sculpture in nearby Da Nang, but nothing beats strolling amongst the ruins on a quiet and early Saturday morning, when colourful butterflies seem to float around and above the surrounding foliage - and when visitors can imagine the vibes of another time, another place in history.  The then ruling Dua Clan ensured almost ten centuries of continuous development and maintenance.  A footnote - there are comparable buildings in Nha Trang, but much more well preserved, further south along the coast in Vietnam.- the Po Nagar Cham Towers.  One will not easily forget the boat shaped roofs and carved pilasters of My Son.

Vietnam - Food Delights

Grilled corn cobs outside the Cu Ci Tunnels not far from Saigon.

The pho, unique from Vietnam, for the soup concoction, graced with rice noodles, aromatic herbs and chili cuts.

Breakfast tasty - egg omelette laden with ingredients of your choice and can include mushrooms, sausage bits, shallots and more.

Grilled meats, satay or skewer styled, here shown above held with wooden utensils, served at the Restaurant 96 in Ha Noi's bustling Old Quarter on a Wednesday evening in early November 2012.

A bird's eye view of street food in Hoi An, central Vietnam - sauces, greens and wraps accompany the ubiquitous grilled meat sticks.

The best Hainan-styled deep fried spring rolls as discovered at the Green Chili Restaurant in Hoi An's Old Quarter.  The owner spoke to us on his careful and dedicated approach to ensure a really crispy batter outside with a fulfilling tasty bite inside.

Above picture captures two women busily holding court in a road corner stall in Hue selling the favourite pho noodles.  We sat on really low plastic chairs and downed our piping hot noodles with a yogurt also provided by these ladies.

Vegetarian delights provided by monks at a monastery in Hue (photo above) and a delightful  outcome of a fruit and vegetable carving demonstration aboard a cruise ship at Ha Long Bay  (photo below).

The omelette, right in picture above, wrapped fillings in a traditional Vietnamese snack - taken in Hue.

Star View Restaurant, Georgetown - Penang

Duck slices served in a crusty edible cup holder, above, was an unusual creation I came across at the Star View Chinese Restaurant in the middle of Georgetown CBD not far from Burmah Road and next to the food court at the New World Park.  Petite and tasty, it served as an attractive bite-sized idea.  The Star View has been building up a reputation in Cantonese inspired dishes on the island of Penang and the challenge is to maintain the energy and reputation for discerning diners.  Mum and family members recently had lunch there on a quiet Saturday afternoon.

We chose traditional favourites like marinated pork ribs, looking red as they should be. What caught my eye initially was the so-called dry version of the stir fry broad rice noodles (hor fun in Cantonese).  I must say it tasted to me like fried char koay teow and yet it did not rise to the oomph of Penang's top hawker stir fry. Maybe I was too entrenched in the delights of the hor fun with a gravy laced with gooey egg and smooth texture.  The Beijing duck came served with northern Chinese styled buns (the man tou) - picture below.

The prawns (photo above) with the dessert of tong sui (body nurturing ingredients like longans and gingko in a mild sweet soup (photo below) wrapped up the course meal.  The lunch was not overbearing and moderate in pace.  I enjoyed the quiet pace in the restaurant, sans the noise,crowds and clutter that can characterise most Chinese restaurants around the world

Hue, Vietnam - Motorbike Tour

A well renowned Zen master, Thich Nhat Hanh, hailed originally from this city in central Vietnam - Hue.

This hub which served as the political base of the Nguyen Dynasty from 1802 to 1945, also boasts its so-called royal cuisine, which tends to be spicy and emphasises on small servings, including the well known white rose dumplings.  Hue is also located near the infamous DMZ, created after the French colonists lost the battle of Dien Bien Phu in 1954.  The national dress of Vietnam, the ao dai, originated from Hue, based on royal clothing styles.  Together with the Champa ruins in My Son and the nearby multicultural town of Hoi An, Hue is also a declared UNESCO heritage site, focused on the imperial Citadels, royal tombs, elephant versus tiger fighting arena and a strong underlying Confucian and Buddhist culture.  It is currently the administrative capital of Tua Thien Province in Vietnam.

Above picture shows the dragon head of a boat moored on the Perfume River in the evening we arrived, and below is a detail reminiscent of China's Forbidden City in Beijing.

The Hue Citadel ( Dai Noi) has recently experienced a restoration effort, with a royal compound open to visitors (above) and an impressive facade outside, surrounded by a moat.  You can see clear damaged walls from the significant fighting in the sixties between the US forces and the Vietcong. In the past, the royal families actually lived inside this area, with specific buildings dedicated for major purposes - including the  Mieu temple and  the Hall of Supreme Harmony.  There are several gates.  Hue was the capital of a previous unified Vietnam, before the recent reunification of the country in 1975 with Ha Noi as its capital.

The Thien Mu Pagoda complex in Hue sits on a hill beside the Perfume River ( Song Huong) with a large compound, including the main shrine and prayer hall, a monastery and independently standing pavilions, including one that provides the names of scholars who achieved attainment of passing Vietnam's royal examinations (held in the same spirit as the Chinese ones further up north).  Such honoured names are inscribed on a tablet held by a stone turtle ( second picture below).

My group's motorbike tour also included visits to a previous American bunker area overlooking the Perfume River (picture below), which has now been re-vegetated with planted flora and used mainly now by courting couples.  Above, the joss sticks with colourful handles made in a village that specialises in this handicraft.

China House, Georgetown - Penang

The place itself was not easy to find, with a facade that is unassuming and not even lit up much on evenings. Yes, China House has two facades, on different streets (Victoria or Beach) as it occupies two large and long lots that stretch between two different roads in Georgetown's old quarter that has been recognised by UNESCO as world heritage.   Both entrances are dark and quiet, but maybe because it is a Monday night when Vivian took me there. The name may suggest a business of fabrics or China heritage souvenirs and artifacts, but it is really a cafe and club with many choices for seating and gatherings, both downstairs and upstairs.  China House not only offers a wine bar ( Japanese  and Scottish single malts are available) besides a barrista operated coffee joint cum bakery with a variety of pastries and cakes (like the pear and ginger upside down cake), but also sit down meals from Aussie-styled breakfast prices at Malaysian Ringgit 30 to lunch options that begin at Malaysian Ringgit 50.  There are fourteen distinctive sub-areas within the two floors of China House.

Vivian and I only had coffee, she chose a flat white whilst I went for a cappuccino. We already had street food of southern Chinese-inspired wanton dumpling egg noodles from a stall along Georgetown's Chulia Street, better known for backpackers, interesting trades, recently upgraded heritage hotels and age-old retail outlets. Chulia Street connects the nightclub hub and nasi kandar and mamak roti stalls of eastern Penang Road to the banking centre of Beach Street and Georgetown's Chinatown.  Nasi kandar, or literally curry rice carried on a pole over shoulders, is  a favourite choice of mine and many who grew up in Peninsular Malaysia - the dish comes from southern India, usually served on a banana leaf and offers rather appetising steamed rice with a variety of curry choices.  It can be consumed anytime, but especially in the evenings or for breakfast.   Mamak roti refers to the light breads offered with a small bowl of light curry sauce, usually vegetarian like dhall (lentil curry).

Back at China House, the coffee blend used had a distinctive aroma and taste, and I was tempted to compare this with the Campos blend available in Sydney and Melbourne.  We sat at a well patronised area near the entrance to Beach Street, with that evening mostly packed with under thirty-somethings and a crowd that reminds you of Starbuck outlets.  Returning recently from Hoi An in central Vietnam, I was struck by the lack of foreign tourists walking along the streets and lanes of the heritage area in Georgetown.
Here at China House that evening, this impression was reinforced.  I understand that going forward, more deep sea passenger cruise ships shall call upon Penang Port and this can only be good news for heritage inspired outlets like China House.

The dinner menu at China House was what captured my attention, with choices like lamb sausages on cous cous, lagsana of duck ragu and a ginger bud infused pesto vegetarian spaghetti.  Bookings are essential on weekend nights.  The interior decor is an eclectic mix of Straits Chinese, modern chic, Thai and mainland Chinese, with a heavy emphasis on wooden panels, embroidered fabric and wall-hung frames.  Groups can lease out indoor and outdoor kitchens for occasions, with a weekly held chefs dinner every Friday night.  What I love best for ambiance is the lit indoor courtyard replete with a burger bar, mango trees and Mississippi mud choc pie. The canteen and bar offers Burmese traditional laksa.  Upstairs on the Victoria Street side is a rental space for workshops, gatherings and parties.  There is also an art gallery corridor and a pop up shop for consideration.  Guests and visitors are always reminded of the long narrow nature of the Straits Chinese houses now providing the venue of  China House.  You can walk to the Khoo Kongsi, Little India and the Weld Quay family jetties from China House.  Look up to the distinctive window frames of the first level of China House when you are standing on the nearby roads.

China House is located at:
153 and 155 Beach Street, Georgetown and
183B Victoria Street, Georgetown
in one connected building.