Bau Truong Marrickville NSW
|Char grilled pork with sugar cane, a Vietnamese classic. 8 out of 10.|
It is more of a fusion Vietnamese cuisine, with an upmarket setting, a calming light subdued interior with an upstairs. Portions are good, service is friendly and bookings are essential on weekends. Located almost smack in the middle of Marrickville's main strip, Bau Troung here, with a distinctive blue coloured logo, offers a different dining experience from the stereotyped Vietnamese restaurant, even if its roots are home grown and traditional.
The menu reflects its grass roots, although some offerings have been tweaked to a modern and more Australian audience. They take pains with presentation at Bau Troung Marrickville, recognise the Aussie need for meats and tone down the spice and chili. Having said that, I was delighted they served anchovies, but to a palatable degree, in a salad. The other Bau Truong restaurants in Cabramatta and Canley Heights respectively in the greater Sydney region perhaps are of a different set up and even wider menu options.
|Bean sprout omelette. 5 out of 10. Taste was under whelming and perhaps did not have the more crispy bite I was hoping for.|
Viet styled salads are less confronting than Thai versions and there in lies the challenge of subtlety and taste. The utilisation of fresh ingredients sliced or cut in the most taste inducing manner, to give texture and bite, is critical. Then comes the inter play of sauces, condiments and garnishing. The resulting level of harmony from all these factors decide the outcome on the palate of diners. Salads are always companions to the main meals or act as starters for the course. Bau Truong has several types of salads for diners.
|Pawpaw Salad with anchovies and prawns. 7 of of 10.|
Charcoal char grilled meats are key in Vietnamese, Korean, Laotian and Thai cooking. The braised marinades that apply combine to affect the taste. In this respect, I enjoyed the chicken and pork dished out by Bau Truong - with crispy bites, yummy sensations and accompanying sauces. We are fortunate to have the owner of Bau Truong already having a strong good reputation in making grilled meats and fish sauce vinaigrette when she was based in Saigon. She has positively reflected her skills and experience here in her meat dishes at Bau Truong.
Do check out the crocodile meat stir fried with lemongrass, leek and chili, if they are in season.
|Braised pork ribs. 7 out of 10. Appreciated flavours but no carving knife offered to help cut it up.|
The term "tapas" originate from the Iberian peninsula, but in a world of mobility and multi-culturalism, they just mean small sampling servings eaten by themselves or as a prelude to the main meal. The number of tapas items at Bau Truong is impressive. The spring rolls here are made with both taro and pork. There are old school items like chicken feet salad, rare beef in tamarind or lime salad or jellyfish with prawn plus pork salad.
Best eaten together in groups, many dishes at Bau Troung are share plates, large or small. This echoes the home and family traditions and cooking from the background of Madam Bac Cang Hghieu, who runs the Bau Truong chain with her son and daughter.
|Roast chicken with side serves of pickles and sauce. 8 out of 10.|
Food: Pricing is higher than most for this cuisine but there is variety. Bau Truong tapas styled offerings are the best way to navigate this if you are not sure what to expect.
Staff: Satisfactory interaction most times.
Ambiance: Modern setting, but can be busy and noisy.
Dishes I am looking forward to try on the next opportunity are the duck braised with preserved bean sauce and lifted by chili and lemongrass; golden fried soft shell crabs glazed with a tamarind sauce; and the Bau Truong pork knuckle, slow cooked with chestnuts, mushrooms, ginger and shallots.
Bau Truong Marrickville is located at 185 Marrickville Road, in the section between Frampton Avenue and Victoria Road.
Telephone: 612 9569 4938
Opening hours: only every evening, from 5pm. Open till 10pm from Sundays to Thursdays.
Closes at midnight on Friday and Saturday nights.
Gluten free menu choices are also available on request.
BYO wine with corkage charges.