The Fringe Cafe & Restuarant, Newtown - inner Sydney

A lazy Sunday morning in May - and one that was particularly hard to jump out of bed! There are clumps of cafes already open near the Dendy Cinema and the Newtown High School of the Performing Arts along the main thorough fare of King Street in Sydney's answer to Melbourne's Chapel Street - Newtown, accessible by both train and bus, down the road from Sydney University and a hub for a smooth and easy weekend start. Weather was rather perfect for the month of May - so far - and people like me were crawling out of the woodwork of a late Saturday night.

So we needed a wake me up call - and we found this in a corner cafe at the junction of Egan and King Streets.  We were initially attracted to the mural graffitis along Egan, but I have always walked past the Fringe and wanted to check it out. Service was quick and informal. Seated near the kitchen may have got the food out fast but the young staff approached in a friendly manner. You could choose between bar styled benches inside or on or usual cafe tables inside or outside. I noted the distinct use of red in the decor, and I shall refer this cafe to as the Red Fringe in my own mind. Its long side is a bonus in my reckoning, offering more perspectives and better utilitarian options for guests in a rather crowded Newtown landscape.

Once again, the eggs stood out, especially my choice of scrambled. The coffee blend was on the strong side, not over milky and an oomph in taste. The Fringe is also a great place to watch the world pass by - and in this context, the parade of locals, day trippers, mates and shoppers.  The morning menu at the Fringe is not over done and in my eyes just right, to fit their key markets of brunch, twenty somethings and a place to frequent for a resident. We did not feel rushed nor did we get bored. We could reply to sms texts from our mobiles, we could chat of the lazy things in life and we could catch  up with friends.  The ambiance is not rustic nor bohemian, it was just contemporary and clean. Having said this, the Fringe is also known for its grills in steaks and seafood at night.

Reflections 24

24 years in Australia and what this has taught me.

1. There can be empowerment in all this relative silence and remoteness. The genesis for an idea can arise when there is no artificial distraction.  When some parts of the world buckle under congestion and pollution, never under estimate the uniqueness and advantage of relatively untainted spaces and capabilities. Always look for the differentiators and delights that the rest of the world hunger for.

2. What has not been used or encountered at all in one whole year does say some thing. It means either you never needed them, or that you have not been active enough to appreciate and utilise them.

3. What I have been paying for all this time? Expensive prices when compared to nations with larger populations? Late arrival of the latest product designs or the trendy movies or shows? Are big businesses milking us extra as Australian consumers just because they can?  Is it because we have pricey costs to dish out in running a business here? The high Australian dollar in recent years, greater overseas travel and more confidence in on line purchases has made most Australians break free of such constraints.

4. The more things change, the more they remain the same.  I look around and at times continue to experience deja vu, the fact that I have seen it all before.  To commence meaningful changes, we look at ourselves in the mirror and take it from there to act and not just reflect.  There is cause and reason on most occasions.  There are individuals who take advantage for themselves, yet there are others who seize upon the advantage to help others. The eternal things that remain the same are inflation and gradual physical breakdown - prepare for these.  So is sunrise at the beach, a child's laughter and a family feel.

5. Practice and routine does make it easier.  Add another layer - timeliness in making decisions and doing things bring us to another dimension.  At every age, give yourself time to face and make the hard decisions.

6. The more you give, the more you receive.  The less you expect, the more happy you can be. Raise a puppy and spend time with people older and younger than your generation. Encourage and be encouraged in return, You liberate yourself from one of the chains of the human condition.  Sharing the joy is more important than to be trapped in delusional self-importance, evidence of which can be seen in some people who do not realise this condition themselves as they continue to chase the smoke and mirrors of self-gratification.

7. Stepping out and embracing change is marvellous.  Allow yourself occasionally to be surprised. That is what life is all about.  Think of Nature and the seasons. Think of ourselves as shedding skin and allowing a better inside to breathe.  Each of us is capable of being positively more than we ever know.

8. At times, I am not sure what to be convinced of anymore - especially from an overload of all types of media, trends and information.  Be strong and have your own personal values.  Remember to smile no matter what.

9. This has been a fortunate country.  However,  I lament the loss of the sense of giving to be replaced by what society calls the sense of entitlement.

10. Travel nurtures the mind and heart.  Its worth may dribble and dilute through the years, but there is always an inner core of satisfaction and inspiration that it holds in our hearts.

11. Everyone of us does get into a rut - the trick is to recognise it first and then do something about it.
Rut comes in many forms, can be caused by no logical reason or person but in the end, only you can move on from rut to growth.  When you rise above the water, make a point to celebrate.

12.  If the first stop does not measure up, try another place.  You owe no loyalty to people who do not commit to you.  Such negativity are not worth considering anyway.  In the end, they fade into our timeline like some fuzzy train on a foggy night.

13.  Pay attention to detail.

14.  Review, revise and reflect, but take action accordingly.

15. Sometimes, just make a stand.  You may have to do so in an unexpected moment or in reaction to a long brewing scenario. Take care of yourself first before you can then effectively help others.

16. It is important as to how and when we pick ourselves up when some people throw stones at us.

17. Do something for others, no matter how small, when they least expect it - and do not expect anything yourself.

18. Grow as many flowering beds as you can. Plant as many seeds as you can, even if you know some will not germinate. Some day later, especially when you have forgotten about them, you delight in the fruits of such effort.

19. Recognise part of yourself in an apparent stranger.  Put yourself in the shoes of the trodden, the bored and the oppressed.  They do and shall rise one day in stature, motivation and influence, if only to start a family, but also if they contribute to your community and your values.

20. Enjoy the moment.  Nothing else matters, as it soon becomes the past and the future is just a concept.

21. Savour the outdoors and its freedom.

22. Take comfort in your own personal anchor, as life is navigating yourself - and those you love - through a journey.

23. Make a difference - and be a difference that is refreshingly welcome.

24.  Real friendship never goes away.

Char Koay Teow

From the streets of Fujian and then to Penang Island and the world - the char koay teow (stir fried rice noodles).


This iconic dish must be stir fried hot and piping before being served - and consumed immediately, for the full effect of flavour and bite.  Unlike those cooked noodles that are prepared hours before and sit in warmed up containers, the char koay teow is a personalised concept - and you can decide what you wish to drop off as ingredients and add as other options. The purist dictates that there must be slices of Cantonese sausages, fresh chives, bean sprouts, a good chili condiment, eggs, garlic, cockles off their shells and fresh prawns. Practicality allows some modification, but essential sauces - soy sauce  in both light and dark versions - are non-negotiable.  Away from Malaysia and Singapore, cockles are usually absent.

Along the streets and in food courts back in south-east Asia, this dish only costs around a tenth of what is whacked to eager beavers in Australian joints.  This could be  a misstatement due to differing costs of living and the quality of ingredients. Still the dish is not deemed kosher in many circles, due to the  use of pork lard when first frying and if added with the lap cheong or Cantonese sausages. The selection of flat rice noodles can be critical as well, for one does not want such noodles to get sticky on the hot wok - and some such shelf produce do.

The right heat level of the cooking oil is vitally ensured before the garlic, pork fat bits and chili paste are simmered to provide the aroma in the very first place.  Rice noodles are separated in looser strands before they can be thrown on to the cauldron.




Why does this dish taste better when sourced from different outlets? Is it because of the way the chef handles the wok and stir, as the cooking heat then affects the bouncing noodles and condiments in a special manner?  Maybe the speed and savvy of the cook when stir frying the noodles can be important. At times, I also reckon it is the pan roasted chili paste that significantly plays a role, for even if we do not want any of this garnish, this dish does taste better with at least a hint of it.  Garlic, sugar, pounded chili paste and dried shrimp paste are mixed in essential proportions to enhance aroma and kick.   There are also many ingredients to prepare before any wok is used. The portion of ingredients for one plate serve is not much, but they must be sorted, sliced and cut in a particular way to provide maximum play and you must never run out of eggs. Like scrambled eggs, the way one throws in the egg contents can be decisive. Fresh eggs are cracked off their shells over the hot wok and then contribute to the final outcome of this dish.  One can never try to stir fry too much in one go.

The ingredients are purposefully prepared in sliced and small versions, so as to absorb the full flavours and make them mouth biting with a texture.


To Penangites and most hailing from Malaysia, char koay teow is comfort food.  Its cousins may be pad thai or south Indian styled fried Hokkien noodles, but they are not the same.  To baby boomers and Gen Y alike, they still form the stuff of roadside suppers on balmy late nights in the home country. I know that this dish is cooked on the streets of Georgetown and somehow get packaged up for the drive to Kuala Lumpur or on a flight to Singapore or Hong Kong.  Such gestures would be met by sniffer cute dogs on arrival at any Australian airport.
Such obsession with food - and casualness of carrying them as airline hand luggage - just lets fly in the face of Australian and New Zealand restrictions on bringing food into their territories.

Back on Penang Island, I do head straight to Ah Leng's along Dato Keramat Road in Georgetown.  In Sydney city centre, the Sayong Curry House at Woolworths Town Hall basement food court and Ipoh on York both have decent versions of this dish.  The best servings of this food item can  be found in many home kitchens I reckon dotted across where the Malaysian Chinese and Singaporean diaspora now are scatted throughout the world.

At All & Sundry, Woonona - Wollongong Coast NSW

The main counter.

Shane alerted me on SMS about this newly opened cafe one Saturday morning (the first one of May) when Scott and I were at Diggies, North Gong Beach for an early brunch.  On my way up to the north-western suburbs of Sydney , I reckoned I should give it  a try in the early afternoon. Initially I could not find the place, but the Woonona newsagent opposite Macker's had a friendly chap at the counter who knew about this cafe.

So as the clouds gathered above the Illawarra, and when the winds whipped up, I hurriedly went down slope along the Princes Highway and spotted a lane beside a butcher's, as advised.  And there it was.  All & Sundry. My first impressions were that it was so Melbourne and yet so Sutherland Shire.  Next opportunity it may be better to park the car in a parking area just outside the cafe but away from the main road.

At late lunch hour on a Saturday, there were several people seated at tables or waiting for their takeaways.  The pace felt casual, people seemed to have time as it was the start of a weekend and there seemed to be limited seating both inside and outside. It was a hotch-potch of various ages, ranging from the twenty somethings to older couples.  The place looked relatively bright inside with framed pictures on one wall, adjacent to an anime looking female character dominating the view as one stepped in.

I just wanted a quick cuppa. Apart from the ubiquitous espresso, I noticed that filter, pour over and aero press variations are also available. All & Sundry is not open at this stage on Sundays and  Mondays, but available from business on other days other days from  8am.  No dinner menus at this stage.  I chose to sit down and had a cup and saucer version of a standard milky order.

A limited indoor seating area.

My mate Shane, whom I understand earlier that day, chose takeaway whilst accompanied by his girls and a friend's five year old daughter.  He was not impressed with the takeaway cups, the last of which he had seen used in Sutherland's Left Bower. They had to wait twenty minutes - I am not sure what muffins they also selected, but the five year old found them  stale and told Shane.  I have suggested to Shane to go back with him and sample their other food servings.

Espresso options include the Guatemala "la perla"  (with maple syrup, hazelnuts, butter washed bourbon and orange mixes); the El Salvador "el Borbollon" (soft acidity washed Bourbon, sweet caramel and honey blend); and the Human Cannonball (the staple used by All & Sundry for milk coffees served there and a Brazilian sourced roast from Golden Cobra). The barista attending to me dressed in a casual trendiness and brought me the coffee in the photo below.  It was not a busy time and he had a smiling disposition.

Interesting use of retro saucers and cups.

Food choices on the current menu are eclectic and you can  have healthy wholegrain porridge (graced with poached nectarine and rhubarb) for breakfast, in contrast to a braised lamb shoulder ( accompanied by rocket, goat's fetta cheese and romesco) for lunch time.  Quick snacks include the Otway ham baguette (with Maffra cheddar and Stewie's own tomato relish) and a in-house granola with poached pear, prune and vanilla.

Kid friendly

There is wide variety of tea choices.  I find captivating the "Heal" mixture based on Calendula flower petals, fennel seeds, lemongrass, ginger and mint.  Several varieties are familiar to those with Asian backgrounds - the White Peony from southern China; Good Morning, a composite of blends from Yunnan, Assam and Sri Lanka; Masala Chai; and the Cloud and Mist, a savoury green tea from Jiangxi Province in China.  I found my coffee of an unusual flavour but need to return to provide a view.

A customer leaves by bicycle - the view outside the cafe.

Ipoh on York - Sydney CBD

The ice grinder

Jimmy is an affable person who hailed from Ipoh and now runs two restaurants in Sydney CBD through his two sons. His outlet at World Square is smaller than his York Street joint, located between the Grace Hotel and the Queen Victoria Building. Ipoh on York is located in a large basement level and one navigates the stairs to reach the order counter, which looks more like a ticketing office in previous reincarnations than one offering the spectrum of street food from south-east Asia, particularly the Malaysian Peninsular.  Ipoh itself denotes definitive good food, specifically of Chinese origin - dishes like Ipoh hor fun are held in high esteem.

Andre and I ducked in to this larger of Jimmy's joints one working lunchtime.  The place becomes chock-a-block with customers significantly from 1215pm onwards. Whilst waiting for Andre, I chatted up a Welsh chap having a stint in Sydney and who had got addicted to what Jimmy had  to offer in food. Apparently he is such a regular that the female staff all know him by name and recognition, asking him if he is coming back tomorrow. Most of the tables at Ipoh on York are small two seaters but do reflect a segment of the Asian population working around the Wynyard and Town Hall precincts of Sydney CBD.

The place is open for half a day on Saturdays.  In the Asian demographic, this can be a venue for catching up with mates from the old country without making an appointment. I understand that networking groups do gather at this venue and not just to enjoy the food.

Various elements for making coffee,  iced concoctions and drinks.



On this occasion I had the ever reliable  char koay teow.   I recall coming together with Shane one early morning, having survived the train commute, to sample the kaya toast and Malaysian coffee combination for breakfast a couple of  months back.  Shane found the condensed milk used for the beverage was rather sweet and I found the servings of toast under sized.  I reckon it may be worth trying the unique drink concoctions  for lunchtime if you have not tried them before.   They range from fruit based mixes to soya choices. What goes well with Malaysian street food is beer but of course, Ipoh on York is not licensed.  However, there is the usual menu of food familiar to anyone who has been to Malaysia - curry laksa, nasi lemak, Hainan chicken rice and so forth.

Ais Kacang (lower pix) - the hot weather cooler so commonly available in Malaysian and Singaporean food courts and streets.  Photo above - the char koay teow, worth trying and served on a miniature wok.