Glebe Village, Sydney CBD

Tucked away at the south side of Sydney CBD is the enclave of Glebe, all at once bohemian, buzzing, cosmopolitan and diverse. You have the choice of water views from Blackwattle and Rozelle Bays, shopping at the nearby and busy Broadway centre, quaint calmness in hidden lanes, Paddington styled terraces, non-mainstream bookshops, weekend markets, lifestyle produce and products, cafes, diverse dining options, bicycle friendly paths, music gigs, bricked roads, backpacker gathering holes, blue collar perspectives and student life. Beyond Glebe, within a five kilometre radius, you have access to other tribal places like Surry Hills, Darlinghurst and Newtown; commerce in ethnic hubs like Spanish Liverpool Street, Italian Leichhardt, Chinatown and Thaitown; choices in public transport like trams, trains and water taxis; tourist centres like Darling Harbour and the Sydney Fish Markets; work offices down George Street; university lifestyles from Sydney, Notre Dame and UTS; and across Sydney's major bridge links to Balmain and the lower North Shore. Sydney's greyhound racing is held nearby at the Wentworth Park - I recall that as I had some of CPA examinations held on site at the Park.

Glebe is best explored by walking, cycling or scootering. It is a place where rewards await those brave enough and with sufficient time to go off the proverbial main road. You will find the reconstructed Szu Yap Temple amidst the brick walls and urbane trees on a lane adjoining the lower slopes of Glebe Point Road. Along the way, you notice several cafe-style and dining outlets, some expensive, some community-friendly, others best for brunch or to while the weekend away. There are hidden gems in heritage mansions like the Bidura, Lyndhurst and the Bellevue - the Bidura was the home of architect and Glebe personality Edmund Blackett. The place was a land grant to the chaplain of the British First Fleet, Reverend Richard Johnson, hence the name "Glebe", which means a plot of land belonging or yielding profit to an English parish church or an
ecclesiastical office.

Above, I stumbled upon a still delightful way of selling ice cream and cooling delights for a summer's like day. At the Saturday Glebe Markets, a young lady carried on non-chalantly in front of the yellow coloured box, waiting for the customers, in the middle of the maze of stalls, performers and displays. Across the main road, one can be taken aback by funky and unusual offerings like the signs on the bar below. In Glebe, I am reminded of aspects of Sydney's Newtown on my most recent trip there, but here we have a slightly different feel, its very own character I must say and perhaps in a more organised way.

Glebe is not just for the visitor. For residents, it may encapsulate the best of what Sydney has to offer, except for beaches and surf. The Toxteh, Nude at the YHA, Nag's Head and Friend in Hand

are popular watering holes, although catering to different demographics. The village atmosphere is illustrated by the Glebe Street Fair, held on the third Sunday of each November, and month long celebrations over crafted teapots and Shakespeare. Never mind that the skyscrapers of the Big Smoke are only a ten minute walk or bus ride away, people do know each other as if they are back in the Tamar Valley in Tassie or in Bundanoon in the NSW Southern Highlands. Hockey, dragon boat racing, dance sessions and stand-up comedy are part of the activity routine. Jubilee Park has a different view of the ANZAC Bridge for the non-motorist. Delis, bakeries and fruit/veg suppliers retain a refuge for those returning every work day from the corporate and street life of most Sydney city centre dwellers.

You can find Nepalese, Thai, Indian, modern Australian, Malaysian, Japanese, Chinese, Greek, Italian, Mexican, Turkish, Lebanese and Vietnamese varieties of cuisine on offer in Glebe. Cafes like the Blackwattle Cafe, San Churro, the Cafe Bariloche, Saffo, Hernandez Coffee Dean, Badde Manors and the Clipper's Cafe provide various levels of ambiance, style and moods. I came across names like the Flying Fajista Sistas and Na Zdrowie.

The weekly Glebe markets are worth an exploration. There is a public-brave and presentable child who does modern dancing for you as part of his busking routine at the Glebe Point Road entrance. I found bamboo casings for IPhones (image above) and the most tasty and imaginative vegetarian salads (picture below).

In the scheme of the ordinary, and perhaps more manufactured artificiality, unique and crafted produce shall continue to be valued. Ingredients may be there a plenty, but in the end it is what you shape and present that counts. The human contribution of creativity and care makes it all worthwhile, and it is the thought that grows and blossoms that is significant.

The best representations of two cultures, the didgeridoo (above) and teapots (below) can be seen amidst the tightly packed stalls at the Glebe Markets.

Old and new, memories of yesterday and the routine of today, history and reality are all echoed in the images below and above. A question arises with the picture above - did the Busy Bee precede Wai Sing? Why was a paste-up job done for such a public display? A Spanish tapas business has now superseded Wai Sing at these premises, but cleverly decided not to tamper further with this wall. Below picture reminds me of a Saturday morning lifestyle, atypical of the Australian scene - family and mates will always be important, but when will the hard copy newspapers go and everyone is receiving the news on a mobile device instead?

Sandstone, brick, terracotta and multi-cantered windows do stand out in today's lifestyle. They remind us of a regimented past, which underlay the basis of today's freedoms, choice and thinking. They provide continuity, pride and curiosity to all who find increasing value in such materials and designs. Some may be of the view that they may not have suited the Sydney climate but was what the British settlers knew best and were comfortable with. The increasing multi-cultural nature of Australian society today has also emphasised harmony and use of local and indigenous, and this is all part of the maturing evolution of building culture.

The Valhalla, the Glebe Public School, Saint Scholistica's, the Wireless House in Foley Park and the Glebe Railway Viaduct are illustrative examples of the Glebe architectural heritage preserved and appreciated of colonial days.

Clipper Cafe, Glebe - Sydney

Is the ultimate choice of a regular cafe in its coffee, food or ambiance? I reckon it's the people, especially the first person to greet you and take your requests; the fellow customers, they way they dress up or down; and the extra touches people make you feel at home. It can be a busy morning, as when I was there on a Saturday, and yet the staff made me feel as if I was the only customer. My cappuccino (image above) came out as soon as they could, even if I knew there was a backlog of customer requests. I had the same person attend to me and my experience and this is much appreciated. He had an easy and genuine smile, even if he was busy, and the smile shone in his calm and bright eyes.

The internal decor makes a child stare in wonder and asks questions. Why is that bicycle hanging on the wall? Whose creative art pieces are being displayed? At times it feels like in a gingerbread cottage, at others like in a bohemian community. There are many twenty-somethings and choices for seating, from sofas to high chairs and pavement tables. The maritime theme can be felt. The weather forecast is lovingly drawn in chalk. Food and drinks are prepared behind a partition, and yet one with a window. If you look the other way, you can immerse in the street life that is Glebe, not far from the intersection with Broadway and Parramatta Roads. And yes, Ben & Jerry's ice cream in small tubs are also available from the cafe fridge.

Much thought had gone into creating my breakfast choice above. Savoury was complemented by the texture of bread, and a range of sensations was provided for taste, including those from a twist of the lemon slice, the green of asparagus and the fresh yolk of egg. My palate was taken both to the rich senses of the sea and the whiff of the farm.

The Clipper Cafe is open everyday from 6am to 6pm. My overall impressions of the Cafe are:

Atmosphere: Feels like home, cosmopolitan and yet as in a village

Taste: Above expectations

Location: Trendy and at the centre of the buzz

People Engagement: Superb, especially from the totally shaven-headed cool guy

Service: Welcoming and with a smile

Best Time To Visit: Early morning.

My Fav Dish Experienced: Salmon sitting on bed of Avocado Paste over toast, accompanied by asparagus spears and two poached eggs (picture above)

Would I Return?: Can't wait.

Gelato Messina, The Star Sydney

Drew had introduced me to this unique delight, Messina gelato made in the best traditions of Sicily, home of the classic movie Cinema Paradiso and the origin of many immigrants to Australia in the fifties and sixties.

Famiglia Palumbo started his business in Darlinghurst’s Victoria Street near the entrance to the Kings Cross precinct of Sydney. There I was, with Drew, ravishing a cone or two as it approached midnight. I am not sure whether it was the secret delight of enjoying ourselves in the city centre late on a Sunday night that added to the high sensation of taking in beautifully made gelato.

Gelato Messina has since opened another outlet, in the refurbished Star near Darling Harbour. (picture above) The range here is perhaps less, but there are always the reliable combinations of Italian nougat and tiramisu, chocolate and raspberry sorbet, coffee and hazelnut plus pandan coconut and passion fruit. I am told there is now a range of monoporzione ( or Italian for “single portion” ) with names like Bity Bity and Mini Me, but I was too preoccupied with the gelato to notice on my most recent visit. This is in addition to their ever popular gelato cakes.

Janie and Lai were with me on this visit to t Star outlet, and Janie did find the Messina version too creamy, having expressed a preference for the gelato from Dolcesimmo in Sydney’s Haberfield.

The Darlinghurst outlet is open from noon till 1130pm every day, whilst The Star branch operates from 11am to 11pm. My impressions on the Messina Gelato outlet at Sydney’s Star are:

Atmosphere: Informal and Cool.

Location: Touristy.

Taste: Refreshing and Nice.

People Engagement: Friendly and Focused.

Service: Patient and Ready.

Best Time to Visit: Late at Night.

My Fav Dish Experienced: Coconut, Lychee and Mango Sorbet

Would I Return? : Yes.

Adriano Zumbo's Patissier, The Star Sydney

Macarons are referred to as Zumbarons. The sushi train concept has been transfromed into a dessert conveyor belt instead, where customers can sit and watch, making into reality sugar and pastry dreams of childhood past. The latest outlet of Adriano Zumbo's at the revamped food street from the Star Casino in Sydney shines like a lit up Ferris wheel, cleverly tucked away at one corner, suggesting of an elegant uniqueness and yet with a welcoming air. The displays, inside or outside the shop, are what attracted me in the very first place, with key products delicately placed to capture our attention and captivate our hearts.

There are always new flavours to complement past favourites for Zumbarons. I especially like the salted butter caramel and the fingerbun versions. One bite into such macarons - and I realise how much thought and creativity has gone into formulating the taste, texture and sensation of the outcome. Zumbo knows we cannot take too much of such rich delights, but every savoured result on our palate is worth the choice. I also sampled the lychee, hot cross bun, passion/tonka and the watermelon plus orange varieties.

Zumbo's creative pursuits and results are also reflected in the careful and yet fun choice of

names for the gateaux - like Man Goes Peanuts, Grandma's Soap and Tastes Like Doris.

I love the plain croissants best, although Zumbo has almond and chocolate versions available.

He has carried on the practice of transparency in his baking labs, with clear glass windows emphasising on safety, skills and superbness. Also on offer are cakes, quiche, danish and various concoctions of breads like chorizo, multigrains, ciabatta, olive and rosemary plus wholemeal.

You can also drop by Zumbo's other outlets in Manly, Rozelle and Balmain in the outer Sydney suburbs. My overall impressions at Zumbo's at the Star in Sydney's Darling Harbour are:

Atmosphere: Fun like in a Fair

Location: Good for non-Gamblers but can be Touristy

Taste: Allows You Choice

People Engagement: With a Smile

Service: Quick and Focused

Best Time to Visit: Afternoon Tea

My Fav Dish Experienced: Salted Butter Caramel Zumbaron

Would I Return?: Definitely.

Mother Chu's Taiwanese Gourmet - Haymarket, Sydney

This is one of the places I often pass by on weekends, but never get a seat and is bustling with customers, day or night. So I strategised to drop by early in the morning to get a seat. The tables are small and placed near to each other, but there must be an attraction in the food served – was it the pricing, the variety, or the taste? I reckon it was all three factors, applicable to
the three dishes chosen on this visit.

Tofu originated in China during the Western Han Dynasty and these days is served in several ways, from entree creations to stir fry mains and cold desserts.

On my visit this instance to Mother Chu’s, my stomach was recovering from a heavy eat the evening before, so I chose this light dish of steamed tofu in ginger-laced syrup. (below image)
Traditional Chinese mothers, whether back in China or in Western countries, but especially in Hong Kong, often relate the virtues of such smooth-surfaced tofu to their daughters.

Char siew pau, or Cantonese for steamed roast pork pastries, are a favourite of mine for evening supper, brunch or breakfast. (image below)

The picture below depicts my bowl of congee simmered with pork-related slices and bits of the so-called “century old eggs.” The following recipe is reproduced from Allrecipes.com.
Ingredients
1 cup uncooked short-grain white rice
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
6 cups water
1 cube pork bouillon cube
2 cups char siu (Chinese roast pork), diced
6 green onions, chopped

2 cups water
2 preserved duck eggs (century eggs), peeled and diced
Directions
1. Rinse the rice in several changes of cold water. Drain completely in a mesh strainer and place into a large pot. Stir the vegetable oil into the rice and set aside for 10 minutes.
2. Stir 6 cups of water, the bouillon cube, char siu, and green onion into the rice. Bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer 1 1/2 hours. Stir frequently as the rice cooks to help break the rice grains apart and keep it from burning on the bottom.
3. Stir in the remaining 2 cups of water and the century egg. Continue cooking another 1 1/2 hours, stirring frequently until the congee reaches your desired consistency. The congee is ready when the individual grains of rice are no longer discernible and have thickened the soup.

My overall impressions for Mother Chu’s at Haymarket, in the arcade linking Sussex Street and Dixon Street Mall, are:

Atmosphere: With a buzz and in an arcade.

Location: Touristy and Ethnic.

Taste: Light and Unusual.

People Engagement: Helpful and with a smile.

Service: Quick but wants prepayment.

Best Time to Visit: Breakfast Time.

My Fav Dish Experienced: Silken Tofu Dessert (Dou Hua in Mandarin) with soft peanuts

Would I Return? : Yes.