Friday, 1 April 2011

Melbourne, Victoria




Melbourne, where there is retail therapy and choice of food relief after hours, especially on the much appreciated week night. Melbourne, named after a formal lordship, but where the streets are so easy to navigate. A city that has unassuming charm and delights in hidden corners. A place where you can dress up, or dress down. A conurbation where anyone can have a choice of gig, performing stage, bar or simple evening. Where rowers, runners, cyclists and walkers all seem to have been inspired by a thought or two - health and fun. Or adventure. Even simple city public perambulation and commuting offers a day long ticket, and then a further choice of tram, bus, train, river boats, bike or just strolling through enclaves, each with distinctive characteristics, which but when combined, make up the city as what it is.






Fine dining - with opportunities like Jacques Reymond in Prahran, Ezard along Flinders Lane and Vue De Monde along Little Collins Street - shines like gems in a hidden forest. Even ready to eat outlets for the office crowds and back packers stand shoulder to shoulder with the best of what Australian capital cities can offer. Or you can go to the markets, delis or specialised groceries to plan, dream, gather, create and serve up at home.




Melbourne, where Euro inspiration meets the South Pacific and indigenous Australia. A city with once a Lord Mayor who owns a Chinese restaurant chain - the Dragon Boat - and where old school ties still thrive.
The city has several bridges across its iconic river and one could at times think it could may be Amsterdam or Paris. The sandstone-like Australian Immigration Museum stands unabashedly proud despite its neighbour down the road, the all-over-the-place design of Federation Square. Performing arts mingle with the routine of life. Maybe the sky scrapers do not quite touch the sky, except for the Rialto - but who cares, the city grabs your heart deep in the soul, with the layers of things that can be done and the stylish way in which you can do it. When you cross a street, at times it seems like crossing three roadways all at once. When you enter a shop, it is elegance personified, as best as the operator can do it. The negativities of wind chill are reversed with wardrobe possibilities and fun; the searing summer heat means time to get a viable tan.






A confluence of people from all over Australia and the world. All the taxi cabs I got into on a recent visit seem to have one common cultural background. Oh yes, the Yarra can look murky if you stare down its waters, and the nearest beach is, ahem, rather far away. But then the tram beckons, with its distinctive cring of a bell and thud of a stop-and-start sound. Clusters of unique exclusivity - be they be called Toorak, Chapel Street or Lygon Road - beckon visitors past through solid architectural passages and buildings. The sloping wide avenues attract rather than distract, despite all the underlying currents of underbelly gangs, ethnic deals and student groupies. The sun may take its time to wake up for three of its climate seasons, but once it gets going, the lights of evening have a special glow. And when certain evenings come, it's time for Aussie Rules footy - and you get ingrained into , indoctrinated by and understand the nuances of tribal membership, often decided by your parents, some times by choice, often just by the sheer passion for the sport and the one you truly love.











The meanderings of the river are the veins through which inspiration, sophistication and purpose imbue the city's residents. Walking along the Yarra means better understanding what makes the city tick, from work places and fashionable hang-outs to cultural outbursts . Clear cut highways, with clever automated vehicular control at ramp exits and striking unexplained design structures, take one out of and in to the central business district.

The suburbs lead to unique experiences like Bells Beach, the Mornington Peninsular, Ballarat and Bendigo towns and the Great Ocean Road, but those places are left for another day, another time.



Yarra Valley, Victoria - Chandon Estate




Above, the approach to Chandon Estate on an early autumn Sunday.









Above foreground, a preserved timber and metal contraption used in the estate location before it was managed by Moet-Hennessy.

Above, a background poster just recalls all those foot squashing pictures from European vineyard festivals, where lots of splattery mesh and juice result from the grapes being stomped upon by human feet. At the Chandon Estate, this is done by very well thought of and complied procedures and processes by human beings (aka employees) using the aid of a specialised tool.








Above, a view from the inside of the on-site restaurant, the Greenpoint Brasserie, which adjoins the vineyards and stroll gardens. Below, the welcome inside the immaculate and well designed showroom, which echoes French savvy, elegance and feel.















In the dark room, above, for riddling - or remuage in French - only after aging for up to three and a half years. Riddling is required to consolidate the lees, or sediment, for removal. The bottles are first placed on special racks (pupitres) at a 45 degree angle with the cork pointed down. They then undergo an involved process of slightly shaking and turning them so that by eight weeks, each bottle is pointed straight down, with sediment in the neck of the bottle.








Visitors can relax on the well manicured lawns and footpaths, take in the March sunshine of the southern atmosphere or sip samples from wine tasting.










Above image, credit to Mr Yeap Kim Leong



















The chateau surroundings (above) blend in well with the changing colours of the vineyards (below).







Visitors are advised to be on site at the estate by 11am on weekends for the guided tour, which is conducted in English and which I found very informative. Wine tasting costs AUD5, which is refundable when you make a purchase. What also caught my eye are the lifestyle accessories like speakers and IPod holders in a Chandon cooling bag. There are a few other vineyards nestled around the Yarra Valley which can be covered within a day.

Penang - Hainanese Food




The island of Hainan, the largest in China and off its South China Sea coast, has been a source of emigration to Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia, the Philippines, Singapore and Malaysia for most of the 20th century. Only recently, following China's re-emergence as a world player, have the reverse occurred - foreign tourists heading to Hainan's warmest tropical beaches and more in China. Underlying both social and population currents is the unmistakable role of its unique cuisine - light, aromatic and stimulating!



Hainanese immigrants to Malaysia and Singapore somehow found themselves as desired and specialist chefs to a variety of cohorts - the British ruling class, Straits Chinese families and business families who settled in the demographic soup mix of Malaya, in the era when it was part of the British Empire. In the 21st century, one of the Hainan influenced signature dishes, the chicken rice, continues to exert its socio-cultural influence on the streets, cafes and hotel restaurants of Singapore and Malaysia. An interesting home made recipe can be found courtesy of Hungry Kat on




Image above, the Hainanese version of colonial styled chicken pie, as made by a chef and bungalow caretaker from Penang Hill. Many thanks to Junie Goh and Chua Cheng Chye for sharing some of their pies with me!



All images below taken at the Hainan Restaurant, located as part of the 1926 Heritage Hotel along Burmah Road in Georgetown, Penang Island, February 2011. Sis-in-law Sian Kin took us there with Mum, brother Kin On and me.








Hainan inspired stir fried noodles (foreground above) , braised in a tasty stock and accompanied by light cuts of chicken breast fillet and the preferred and commonly available choy sum vegetables. In South-east Asia, the noodles are served with a dash of sambal-infused chili sauce.















Above and below, the chicken pie at 1926, which also offers another option of the macaroni pie.










The Hainan version of deep fried spring rolls stands apart from what you get in most of South-east Asia, southern China and the modified versions in most Chinatown precincts in Western societies. I see them (above) as having an extra kick in the crunchy bite, plus the savoury anticipation of what's inside and for which I do not require any sauces or condiments to eat them with - they are just terrific by themselves, when taken piping warm. Such rolls are perfect for snacks and should be served drained of any deep fried oil.











Above, a cup of weasel coffee at 1926, served with an Italian biscotti. Weasel coffee is a practical reference to cà phê Chồn, blended from a variety of coffee berries which have been eaten by the Asian Palm Civet (Paradoxurus hermaphroditus) - and then passed through its digestive tract. Proteolytic enzymes from the civet stomachs seep into the beans, making shorter peptides and offering more free amino acids. The defecated beans are then gathered, thoroughly washed (we reckon!), dried under strong sunlight, lightly roasted and finally brewed. For all this effort, they claim to be more aromatic, less bitter in taste and demand the most expensive prices in the coffee market.

Comparable to the weasel coffee is the kopi luwak or musang from Indonesian sources and are mostly blends of arabica, robusta, liberica and excelsa. Native farmers in the East Indies during past Dutch colonial rule were prohibited by their political masters and plantation owners to pick coffee beans for their own consumption (all for export). The natives circumvented this man-made restriction when they discovered their civet friends left coffee seeds intact in their digestive drops.



Dishes With Good Vibes Too






The four seasons entree, vital to any Chinese banquet, is meant to tease and tempt the palate. Normally served on a presentation of sliced cucumbers, carved carrots, lettuce - and topped with a carved vegetable rose - they symbolically represent the climatic cycle and seasons of a temperate location. Above image, taken at the Jade Restaurant in Georgetown, Penang, are clockwise from upper left, yam with scallops; deep fried prawns in a sweet and sour sauce; and oyster bites - these are preferred Cantonese selections.








A delicacy prized for thousands of years - and now politically incorrect for how they are harvested - are the gelatinous fins of sharks, boiled and brewed to absorb the fine flavours of rich stock and accompanying ingredients. Sharks fins have no taste on their own, are simply soft cartilage, but are treasured for their texture, reputation of nurturing internal human organs, perceptions of retarding aging and being an aphrodisiac. Dorsal fins are priority, followed by tail and pectoral versions.



The dish has shot through the roof in asking prices - and like any sophisticated thing, suffer imitations posing as the real thing. Cleaning of the raw fins require aims of skin peeling, cleaning and boiling them. Preparation of the cooked dish are laborious, involving running the dried or freezed fins under separate processes of cold and warm running water, and then braising the stuff with scallions, clear chicken stock and ginger. When served to discerning diners, they have the choice of quality crab meat and dashes of dark vinegar to add to personal taste.








Penang - Lor Mee




Lor mee is another of those street foods that are not commonly available in Western societies, but are easily found in southern China, Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore. The dish is iconic of the Teochew Province in China and has been mainly brought to equatorial climes by immigrants over the last few centuries. It combines snippets of ingredients in a thick savoury sauce. Above, the lor mee with roast pork and sliced hard boiled egg accompaniments at the Fong Sheng Cafe, along Lorong Selamat in Georgetown, Penang - the place was introduced by May Wah and Henry Quah.








The cafe harks back to the seventies or eighties - and maybe earlier - what caught my eye were (above) freshly blended fruit and/or vegetable juices and (below) metal and plastic contraptions of the food trade.

















Hot and cold drinks are easily on offer from the cafe (above and below) at very reasonable prices.








Another version of the dish (below) taken whilst Bob Lee was enjoying them in another cafe or coffee shop in Georgetown, Penang Island.








Penang Lor Mee Recipe:

Ingredients
# 250g lean pork
# 2 litres fresh chicken stock
# 200g prawns, keep shells intact

Seasoning (A)
# 1/2 tsp salt
# 1/2 tsp pepper
# 1 tsp light soya sauce
# 1 kg fresh yellow Hokkien noodles
# 1 cup bean sprouts, tailed
# 3 hard boiled eggs, cut into wedges or halved

Seasoning (B)
# 2 tbsp light soya sauce
# 1/2–3/4 tsp thick soya sauce
# Salt to taste

Thickening
# 3–3½ tbsp corn flour mixed
# 100ml water
# 2 eggs, lightly beaten
Condiment - Chilli and garlic sambal
# 3 tbsp chili paste
# 3 tbsp oil
# 1/8 tsp salt or to taste
# 6 cloves garlic
# 2 tbsp chicken stock
# 1/8 tsp salt

Cooking Method

1. Marinate pork with seasoning (A) and set aside. Bring chicken stock to a boil.

2. Add in pork and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove and set aside to cool then cut into thin slices.

3. Add seasoning (B) to the stock and bring to a simmering boil.

4. Add corn flour thickening and stir well to mix. Bring stock away from the heat and drizzle in the beaten eggs.

5. Stir gently to mix. Scald noodles and bean sprouts separately and put required amount of noodles and bean sprouts into individual serving bowls.

6. Ladle out starchy gravy or stock over the noodles. Add a few slices of pork and a slice of hard-boiled egg.

7. Serve with chili garlic sambal.

Chili Garlic Sambal
Heat 3 tbsp oil a small saucepan. Add chili paste and salt and cook until oil rises. Dish out and set aside. Put garlic, chicken stock and 1/8 teaspoon salt in a food processor. Blend into a fine paste. Set aside for use.

Copyright for Recipe: Amy Beh, taken from: http://kuali.com/recipes

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