Sri Lanka Today

 

Sri Lanka March 2024

The island nation has lots of walking at natural sites and religious places, a variety of food familiar to Malaysia's multi-racial demographics, interesting town walks, varying climate zones from mountains to coasts, Dutch historical influences and several options for adventure experiences.

Travel distances are user friendly, with destinations usually reachable one way between one hour and 90 minutes by road.  The way Sri Lankans drive can be so precise and shockingly close to one another on its mostly narrow roads.

Somehow I found the meats used in curries were pretty dry or hard.  Exception was in pork black curry.  Fish is generally more palatable, as in grilled or in curry dishes.

Escalators are rare outside Colombo and walking up two steps of flights to go to a meal floor is common.  King Coconut water, dhall curry, mudcrab and bananas are tops in my choice, but not durian types grown here. Tea quality as you know is outstanding, with ambiant walks in the midst of tea plantations around Nuwara Eliya.

The Sri Lankan economy is still in the doldrums.  There is this ever rising cost of entrance fees payable only in USD to enter tourist sites.  Locals on the street are friendly but realities of costs of living cause many to approach foreigners in not the most savoury manner.

There are sights and scenes in Sri Lanka that remind us of Malaya in the old times. Surprisingly the level of understanding and ability to speak English has fallen.

Hotel rooms, even at four star level, can be lit up better.  Toiletries for guests can be minimal.   Tv sets in the countryside often have Dialog brand wifi transmitters.  Buffet breakfasts are the norm for tourists, with a balanced selection of local, Thai and Western dishes.  The safety of tap water supply is better than in Thailand and Indochina, but boiling water and use of bottled water are advised

Your skill in the art of negotiation upfront for ride prices makes tuk tuk journeys more calming, although the pollution in Colombo streets can be a problem and it is better to ride with face masks on. You can pay in cash for Uber and Pick Me shared drive services. Grab is not available, unlike in South east Asia.

The emphasis for perfect and untainted copies of US dollar notes received by Sri Lankans can grow to be an irritating issue for unaware tourists.  Immigration points on arrival and departure are efficient and arrival cards must be prior filled up online.  Lining up for our foreign passports to be stamped seems more efficient at Colombo Airport compared to KLIA.  Baggage claim carousels are better serviced at Colombo than at Sydney.

The heat of the midday sun can be less tempered than south east Asia as Sri Lanka is further north of the Equator. 

Bentota, south west of the island, can be so commercialised with its beaches. The waters of the Indian Ocean look and so full at the beach, with stirring winds and gorgeous play of sunrise and sunset.

Galle remains a top choice in experiencing Sri Lanka, even if it is heavily imbued with colonial influences.  It has many tourists and inspiring accommodation - and if you care to walk along its streets, the true character of Galle surfaces, as it rose to be a strategic trading port dealing with the dangers and opportunities from the outside world.

My overall preferred experience in Sri Lanka is being together with locals waiting for Pooja in the very room so near the Buddha's tooth relic in Kandy.  Lining up behind in my choices are the river boat ride along the Madura River with its many isles, indigenious peoples, cinnamon trees and on to meeting the sandbanks of the Indian Ocean coast.  We were truly relaxed staying for three nights at the Livvy Waters Villas in Dambulla, with high ceiling cabins, spacious stone floor bathrooms and the chatter of lizards at night.

Nuwara Eliya, referred to as Little England, is nestled amongst cool and hilly landscapes - while Ella is a budding party hub for young Europeans.  The Nine Arch Bridge is a bit of hype and can be missed if you are on a busy schedule.  Why two peaks refer to the Biblical Adam beats my understanding.

We had a resourceful and energetic
young driver for our afternoon safari across the Yala National Park, but the variety of fauna observable is much less than in Africa.

Embarking on to Buddhist religious sites can at times demand the patience and passion of a pilgrim.
At the UN World Heritage site of Anarudharupa in north central Sri
Lanka, we were required to remove our footwear and walk on red hot concrete, brick or bare earth for long distances in the open, when the temperature was 36 degrees C. (It was burning hot for our soles even when we wore the allowed socks).

The hike up to Lion Rock in the Singhalese cultural hub of Sigiriya can be demanding to those not used to rock steps of varying width or height, slippery rain conditions and energy exerted up or down steep slopes.

The dawn opener on state TV is a collage of recogntion to all the main faiths in Sri Lanka and not just to Buddhism.  Singapore in contrast remains strictly secular in just playing the National Anthem on Mediacorp.

Tuti or Thank You, Sri Lanka for opening my eyes, heart and thoughts.

#yongkevthoughts

PS. We did not visit Jaffna and Trincomalee on this visit.