Eastern & Oriental Hotel, Georgetown - Penang

Ware typical in south-east Asia from Chiangmai to Bali, one that also reminds me of water storage, preserving fruits and keeping stuff.

There are abodes for the historical  traveller, the adventurer, the tourist, the resort seeker.  Places of maintained elegance that hark back to another time and cultural ambiance. Residences that offer alternatives to current commercial offerings.  Hotels that have a proud past. Rooms that were occupied by celebrities of every shade, whether artistic, political or business. You can find such gems in most corners of the world, in the Caribbean, New England, Italy, India, Japan or Spain. In south-east Asia, a long period of colonial rule by various European powers has planted an outstanding such establishment in various cities, offering a key respite from the harsh climate, the ordinary masses and to recollect and recover in a world full of competition, fast paced trading and violent skirmishes. These institutional abodes do survive and prosper today, although under different owners and each facing varied socio-cultural trends and pressures.  On Penang Island, it is the all suite Eastern & Oriental Hotel.

A snapshot selection of the raw seafood offered at the daily buffet on the ground floor.

A visitor to early 20th century E & O would still familiar and comfortable many of the amenities and features available today in the 21st century version of the same place.  Tiled floors pamper your feet as you stroll along its indoor passage ways to your room or its several function facility venues.  The waterfront, looking out at the Straits of Penang to the mainland and the hillock known as Bukit Mertajam and also the higher point of Kedah Peak,  has solid parapets to form a fence against any surging tides (and which encountered the dissipated spill over from the Aceh tsunami back drift).

The swim pool is petite but good enough for those who just want to soak in the sun between conferences and business talks.  The palm trees are still there, remaining friendly and constant sentinels even if the city and nation has gradually changes.  The new Victory Annexe wing built recently gently sweeps in to the original parts of the hotel (the Heritage Wing) without a battered eyelid.  Many a function is held there in the tradition of yesteryears - weddings, club gatherings, expats hanging together late in the happy hours afternoon and family get togethers.

Sauces and condiments are essential to fully appreciate the potential of the local cuisine. 

The E & O could have been viewed as a refuge for European styled cooking in the past, especially to cater for Englishmen, their families and cohorts who have obviously been away for a long time from home, due to the then realities of long and arduous travel just to get back to the motherland.  These days the political and commercial powers and influences have changed significantly, with more island locals patronising such hotels for weekend gatherings or as suitable weekday venues to negotiate and do deals with the Malay Muslims from Kuala Lumpur, Singaporean investors, Middle Eastern stakeholders and China interests.

E & O survived the tribulations of the wold wars from the last century, endured Japanese military occupation and adapted to the changing socio-political landscape of an independent nation.  It was closed down in 1996 and suffered the indignity of decay and disorder for a certain period. The founders, the Armenian Sarkis Brothers, would have approved the transformation that has emerged from such times - and so would its more well known guests like Lee Kuan Yew, Michael Jackson, Charlie Chaplin, Sun Yet-Sun, Rudyard Kipling, Sir Noel Coward, Douglas Fairbanks and Herman Hesse.  British writer Somerset Maugham did reflect on life in colonial Malaya in his books and may have written some lines inside this very hotel itself.

A shoe shine box and polish options are made available in the washroom for gentlemen.

The surroundings on the boundary of the E & O are not your movie stereotype, falling out to busy street markets, huddled dwellings or jam packed traffic, but to more benign seafront with cooling breezes, similarly constructed buildings and a continuing theme of colonial settings.  This is  a terrific base from which to commence the heritage walking trail which may take anywhere up to four hours in the Old Quarter of Georgetown.   It is also a naturally chosen base to return to in the afternoon for a quiet refuge after surviving the humidity and heat of such an outdoor trail.  The seaside breezes from the harbour do circulate better past its walls and through its windows.

As the Malaysian Ringgit devalued much in recent years, the suite charges at E & O have moved on to  four figures per night.  Most are studio suites but you can also ask for the corner versions.  It is most enjoyable relaxing on your own balcony looking out at the placid waters of the Harbour on a lazy afternoon.  The corporate entity that owns and manages this hotel is indeed a diversified business that has also constructed residential and commercial buildings.  The inspiration and image they have adapted from this anchor hotel arm of the business is infused into their other projects.  A twenty minute car drive to the north-west brings you to the Straits Quay, developed and owned by the same owners as the E & O.

The diversity of food and drinks at the E & O can range from an Brit styled pub to tearooms, ballroom fine dining and buffet meals.

The character of the main foyer says it all - immaculately presented, lovingly detailed, spacious as the guest rooms with airy high ceilings and over seen by attentive staff.

A simple test of the integrity of the services with any establishment is to sample the fruits served at the end of a meal.

The washroom is graced with Victorian era lampshades, purposefully provided with low lighting and sinks that remind one of  Britannia at its political height.

Influences of Thailand, Cambodia and Indonesia are acknowledged in traditional styled panels.

Penang Island's iconic street food, the char koay teow, is stir fried to your personal order and came out tasty, even without the use of pork lard, often utilised at street stalls and food courts to enhance the flavour and kick.

Nan Tien Revisited - Wollongong NSW

Peter mediating with a turtle from the lotus pond on a  spring day.

The teahouse - view from above.

A weekend retreat for some, a regular exercise in mind and body for several.

Yummy vegetarian curry laksa at the Dew Drop Inn.

Vistiors on a Sunday arvo.

Bamboo and fortified walls

Glimpses of unique architecture beyond the hedge.

Orange flavoured tea servings.

Food for Thought

Let us visualise a hypothetical nation with the following characteristics.

An identified segment of the population in this imaginary country has been given both financial and non-financial benefits in an entrenched mentality of political induced given rights and not through sheer personal effort, thinking and innovation. Such rights have been long embedded in the minds of the recipients, due to perceived past injustices and through the weight of numbers, racial prejudice, the ability to exclude and the manipulation of so-called democratic smokescreens.

Yet the very peoples such benefits were meant to provide for continue to be oppressed - and the majority of the wealth of the country ironically continues to be held by a chosen and connected few.  The government of the day feeds on discriminatory practices which logically leads to significant brain drains, voluntary emigrations and tampering with historical facts.

Classes are created to divide and rule, with the powers that be bestowing apparent superiority on one group of human beings, who  are then pitted against other human beings.   Logic and rationality are defied in societal and judicial decisions.  When religion and misplaced national pride are further utilised in this powder keg, and diversity strongly rejected, the consequences can be severe, the writing is already on the wall and a country, that once welcomed ideas and change, becomes insular and unstable.

The nation is further hijacked by radicalism and conservatism, swirling in its own deceit and delusional sense of righteousness.  Homogenous ideals flourish to constrain development and destiny whilst competitor nations absorb the best of human beings rejected by their own place of birth.  There are flare ups of unavoidable civil violence and community disorder.  Extremism and intolerance are nurtured, attracting such like leaders to rule and leading to the inevitable path of a disrupted society.

Am I referring to Germany in the Nazi years, or feudal China on the last legs of a dying dynasty? Or am I asking you to reflect on your local shire or suburb?   I recall African tribal wars, colonial era stiff upper lips and slavery in the old USA.  Each aspect mentioned echoes possible  human behaviour, thinking and organisation in any geographical place, especially when there are insufficient checks and balances.  There can be pockets of such instances occurring, if not all of the above.  What are you, as a  responsible member of society and as an enlightened human being, doing, in every small or big way you can, to protect your self and your family, from stumbling into this kind of fate?

Old Quarter, Georgetown, Penang

Decaying brick work, narrow lanes and modern vehicles - it can be an exotic mix but the old Quarter of Georgetown  needs more funding and continued urban renewal with purpose, commerce and viability.

Plates used for fine dining at a Straits Chinese restaurant hark back to the past - the design could be probably an English perception of old China rather than what was produced in Imperial China itself.

Talk the walking trail around Georgetown, stop for a variety of cuisines and drink plenty of water - paying attention to detail is mostly rewarding. The mural above, Little Children on a Bicycle, located along Armenian Street is illustrative of the work of Ernest Zacharevic from Lithuania, who has his creative skills displayed around the old quarter.

The brotherhood between the cities of Georgetown and Adelaide continue to manifest and evolve,
ever since father Francis Light and son William founded their respective cities and made a mark in the history of two nations.

Cover of box containing baked yellow bean paste biscuits originating from the Fujian community of Penang - the tau snear pnieh.

Part of a mural labelled Boy and the Dinosaur, also from Ernest Zacharevic and found along Ah Quee Street.  A challenge of such street art in a place with equatorial weather is to cope with the elements but defacing of such art has also been due to vandalism.

Pencilled drawings can be more simple but also create the atmosphere of an era gone by.

The side of the iconic Goddess of Mercy Temple in Georgetown exemplifies various architectural styles - from Victorian England (top foreground); from southern China (side right); and from southern India (foreground).

Boy on a Bike, also along Ah Quee Street, blurs the distinction between dimensions and suggests  a memorable time in adolescence.

A trigger to remind of days in the early 20th century for Penang - the popular form of public transport for families and terraces on a street.  I saw this in front of the Noordin Mews.

Marble topped tables and rattan chairs can remind one of lazy and sultry afternoons under a ceiling fan in the heart of the Old Quarter.

A lively spark beside a bright coloured fire hydrant.

pool Towels for guests at one of the several renovated heritage styled residences for travellers.

The origins behind Queen Street in Georgetown, bordering between Little India and Chinatown.

Delicate dessert served as  an unusual form of moon cake.

A guest house for the young backpacker, rather clean and inspired by a Japanese concept.

Twelve Cups Cafe - Georgetown, Penang

Mention Whitetaways to a Brit colonial who used to reside in the old Malaya - and he or she would beam up, ready to recount the atmosphere and stories of the period, when Whiteaways was a grand department store and the longed for goods and clothes from the mother country were found. The posting from the wet and swept isles so long ago and so far away, when ship travel was predominant,
to the humid and heady monsoon island of Penang, was already an adjustment to cope with and anything to occasionally delight and quash any home sickness was significantly appreciated.  The old place is gone now, now replaced by recent renovations to lure tourists and locals alike to visit again and consume, to spend mostly evenings away and to provide an entertainment hub.   One of such innovations is the Twelve Cups Cafe.

The Hokkaido Milk flavoured Mille Crepe.

The interior of Twelve Cups is lined with bold sweeps of yellow, white and pastel, underscored by boundaries of brown, maybe comparable to the juices, desserts and cakes served here, plus the coffees made to your order. The evening we were there, a resident artist was drawing various miniatures of the Eiffel Tower and this had instantly drawn a circle of observers to the counter, mainly mothers and kids. The cafe has taken a portion of the former Whiteaways Arcade, now unrecognisable inside, but still with a strong facade presence outside, at the corner of Bishop and Beach Streets in the Georgetown quarter of Penang Island, not far from the ferry pier and still surrounded by branches of banks.

 It had been a rainy evening, one of several consecutive nights that week and we were somehow glad that we had a respite from the showers when we tried after dinner ambience there, watched the mostly young crowd and soaked in the cafe scene. This was not a place to just connect to free wi-fi but gather in groups, show off the latest casual wardrobe and somehow mix in a place other than work or school. The demographics were mostly of Chinese descent, potentially on the cusp of studying in overseas universities, or just having a break from such regimes. Twelve Cups has a signature dish - the Mille Crepe. This French recipe uses caramelised sugar and maple syrup-Scotch pasty cream between its layers. "Mille" means a thousand. The menu is written on a chalk board and we could not help being captivated by part of the lyrics of the hit "Feeling Good" displayed on the wall - complete with a painted depiction of a Penang Island trishaw and two actual wheels.

Yes, there are exotic versions of Mille Crepe available at this cafe, including Matcha Red bean, Earl Grey, French Vanilla and chocolate. So you cannot be blamed if you find yourself swirling in a fusion blend of Japanese, British, French and Australian influences. I was reminded of Sydney style barista cafes and bakeries, enjoyed the casual atmosphere and found the coffee good. Twelve Cups has the full spectrum like Americanos, Espressos, Cuppaccinos, Latte, Mochas and Macchiatos. Although no true blooded Italian would consume lattes beyond 11am in the morning, in a city which had nurtured and facilitated multiculturalism long ago, old rules and conventions are cast aside.

 The cake counter had a variety to choose from even after 10pm. Lifestyle on a tropical isle is to stay late, have happenings after midnight and sleep before sunrise. Although the Mille Crepes often had creamy stuff or crunchy crisps between their layers, I did not find them over whelming or too rich to the taste. Coffee, ice cream, sugar, good service and smiles do mix well in this cafe. Prices are reasonable between ten and twelve Malaysian Ringgit. There are night clubs, lounges and wine bars in this precinct - and Twelve Cups may be just another step in night hopping for many of its patrons. For visitors wanting to get away from the spectrum of heritage architecture and environs in old Georgetown, the Twelve Cups offers a vibrant alternative. I was told the cake flavours seem to skew on East Asian tastes and usually Western styled creations are more rich on the palate. The Twelve Cups is best as a walk in cafe, as vehicle parking can be challenging.