Tim Ho Wan Restaurant - Chatswood Sydney

The dainty and flavourful Siew Mai, with a red hat for a difference.

The reputation had begun in Hong Kong, escalated when Lung King Heen Restaurant was awarded one Michelin Star.  Chef Mak Kwai Pui was responsible for the cuisine served at Lung King Heen.  The rest you may say is history. Chef Mak then served at the Le Meridian Hong Kong, before he decided to purse his own business - and Tim Ho Wan in Mongkok was born six years ago, with a modest 19 seats location.

 The crowds continued to troop in THW branches in Hong Kong, Taipei, Singapore, Manila and Kuala Lumpur. This year saw the launch of the "adding of good vibes' in Australia.  Chatswood, the bustling centre of Asian migrants with a higher than average income level, complete with a transport hub and a shopping precinct, was the obvious choice to launch, with Burwood, Sydney Chinatown and Melbourne apparently in the line of sight.

With personal curiosity, social media expectation and crowd hype, I really tried to keep an open mind as I joined the queue on a late Sunday afternoon with two other friends.   The THW outlet in Chatswood is in the District Dining Precinct, purpose built over the Railway Street side of the rail station.  There are expensive high rise apartments nearby, commuters can make a dash for a yum cha session here before continuing on City rail to the Macquarie Shopping Centre and Macquarie University.

The signature baked Char Siew or barbecued pork bun.

The deco is modern, emphasising on tables for twosomes.   The staff that afternoon did look stressed out, although it was not a really busy time by THW experience.  Asking for drinking water involved a few times trying - the wait staff were not very communicative as well, seemingly pressured to clear tables and bring in the ordered dishes than  doing anything else.

Customers reflect the Hong Kong Gen Y anime loving spectrum - and the cooler climes of mid-autumn here did help in dressing up.  There were the old timers scattered across the tables, obviously relishing of good old times in the Fragrant Harbour.  Non-Chinese Australians seemed happy with the menu, which consists of only twenty-five items - what a brilliant idea for a business model, which incorporates the difficult-to-discard concept of encouraging table turnover,  an easy to order picture menu card and quick working staff to bring in dishes within an impressive five minutes after ordering.

Liver Cheong on the foreground, with steamed pork ribs in black bean sauce in the background.

The lady at the payment counter had a sense of humour.  I could not place it truly - was this a blend of Surry Hills, Mr.Wong in Wynyard and with shades of those great traditional Cantonese restaurants?  One thing for sure, there was not enough space to push trolleys  with bamboo baskets, every inch was better allocated to paying customers.

Ambiance and taste, with bean curd skin wraps in the foreground.

And bamboo baskets there were a-plenty, even providing the motif for the upper wall.    The chefs and kitchen staff looked focused and busy.  I did hear about the signature dish - baked barbecued  pork buns.  The dough outside was not the traditional recipe, it was an old-styled skin, something refreshingly different.  Biting into the bun did make me feel, hey, there may have been too much sugar in the outer coating, but I was tipped off to savour what was inside, more than anything else.  And there it was - savoury, tender on-the-bite barbecued pork - as you broke open the bun in halves.  The taste comes up first as they slither into my mouth, delicate and wholesome, standing a class above the rest.  There are three such buns on one serving plate - now how many shall I order to take back to the Wollongong Coast?

My favourite - steamed fish maw with prawn paste.

My dining mates did find the braised chicken feet with abalone sauce different and drier than the prevalent version in most Australian yum cha sessions.  We all agreed that it just was more of an old school recipe.  Most of the items available were savoury rather than sweet.  There seems to be an abundance of using pork and shrimp in the steamed servings.  There is no rash and rough presentation, every thing has been predetermined to be as dainty and delicate as possible when served.  Each dish is charged around the seven to eight dollar mark in Chatswood.  Seafood rules at THW, so be prepared.  Oh yes, there are also spring rolls, always a hit with the kids and beer drinkers (no alcohol license has been granted to THW at the time of writing).  Grandma may want to check out the glutinous rice with chicken and mushroom wrapped in bamboo leaves, I avoided that as it is a hefty serving. Chinese tea is charged at $2.50 per person.

Shrimp and veg dumpling - refreshing and uplifting.

The world of corporate and competitive cuisine in the great cities of the world can be challenging.  And dramatic - I understand, correct me if I am mistaken, that chef Eric Koh, who was head hunted from Mr. Wong's in Sydney CBD to head THW in Chatswood, has been reported to have headed back to his previous employ. Does this mean anything, maybe not, as long as the quality of the dishes THW churns out in Australia continue to excite and satisfy customers.  Tellingly, the Sydney operation is overseen by Singapore based Chef Cheung Yat Sing -  this follows an increasing trend whereby Australia is viewed as a business province of headquarters in low-taxed Singapore.

The Cantonese are fond of poetically naming dishes with splendour and meaning.  THW is welcome in this great southern land.    In Hong Kong pop of previous generations, they recognised the Four heavenly Kings in that music genre - and so now there are also four such kings in dim sim cuisine -  the barbecued pork bun, vermicelli roll (Cheong) with pig liver, steamed egg cake and the pan fried radish cake.  Please ask your Cantonese speaking mates for the beautiful Chinese names!

Where the creative people are.

So in the end, after half an hour and devouring ten items amongst the three of us for a late teatime snack session, what are my recommended dishes?  I have to say the Siew Mai and the liver filled Cheong.  They are made with finesse, require delicate and skilled hands plus they came out being served with the right texture and freshness.  Has the restaurant lived up to the hype?  Perhaps not, but it is still worth trying for a few select items and try to visit away from rush hour.   Some say this interim Australian operation of THW does not provide exactly the same taste as in Hong Kong, but I think that can be subjective, so just judge for yourself.

Tim Ho Wan Restaurant - whole day dim sum from 10am till 9pm every day
1 Railway Street, upper level facing road
Chatswood NSW 2067
Telephone 612 9898 9888
Bookings in private room available for a minimum spend of AUD300 - otherwise is a wait and sit system.

Apparently the dish that draws in the crowds, especially in their South-east Asian outlets.

Milking the Aussies - and Not Doing Anything In Return

Rising competition from other economies is one reality that Australia and its government have to grapple with seriously for the future.  The media here is full of reasons and analysis as to why the nation is potentially facing its greatest economic crisis in 25 years - leading us on a merry go round of "oh, it is due to falling demand from China, the sad and significant fall in iron ore prices, etc., etc..."   

What the country's politicians and economic experts do not sufficiently recognise is the lack of action required from within - and not external factors - to innovate, be more productive, change the mindset of economic action and to take more responsibility to find solutions, instead of continually reacting to events or just patch working with temporary solutions.

Fiscal discipline in the eighties had brought benefits and set the tone for the long years of economic prosperity and growth until the beginning of the second decade of the 21st century.  A rethink is required for the Government and populace to get off their bums and mesmerising comfort zone.   Why rely so much on interest rate cuts or increases by the RBA to save the course of the economy?  What about providing investment incentives;  spending on training and the young to prepare for the future; utilising other monetary and fiscal tools; having a forward looking and liberalising tax reform; and acting on taking advantage of Australia's unique advantages?

It is not effective to fight off efficiencies from low cost competitors by relying on Government subsidy and protection, as Australia is not only no longer the Lucky County, but one that may no longer afford the continuing costs of providing support to less than productive sectors.  The Government cannot afford to act like the old rich family next door, no longer being able to afford the high life and related expenditures, and keep on borrowing to maintain the facade from the past.

Is Australia forever going to be the supplier of raw materials, commodities and resources?  When is the Government going to encourage investment in adding value, instead of happily and lazily selling the raw stuff and not harvesting the margins from developing products from raw ingredients?

If the country continues its laid back attitude in the management of its economic and financial affairs, foreign parties can continue to milk our cow, dig up our backyard and essentially beat us at the world economic stakes. 

Patiscceria Massimo Papa - Fairy Meadow NSW

Cannoli filled with ricotta goodness.

The Illawarra suburbs of Fairy Meadow, Balgownie and Mount Ousley combine to form a hub of Australians with a strong Italian background.   It is therefore no surprise to notice several Italian related icons when strolling around the main strip of Fairy Meadow - especially near the Fraternity Club, Leisure Coast Markets and the Costa Azzura Restaurant.  Earlier this year, a gem of a patiscceria, Massimo Papa, opened its doors at the back of an unassuming house beside the Coles Complex.  Walk into the driveway and there is a modern commercial building housing displays of row after row of beautifully made pastry, cakes, gelato,  savoury items and biscuits.  For me it was like walking into a cave of craftily made delights, many choices and with an Euro feel.


Address: 130 Princes Highway
Fairy Meadow NSW 2519
Landline: 612 4285 6353
Open every day, from around 7am to 5pm on weekdays and 8am to 3pm on weekends.

A selection of flaky pastry, pistachio nut encrusted biscotti and doughnuts.

I recommend three particular offerings at Massimo Papa's. 

The first is the Cannoli in either the ricotta or chocolate creamy filling options, and may I say, with the smaller serves if you are just having a cuppa and eat there for morning or afternoon sessions, as you have to save space for the other delicacies!  The tube  shaped pastry of fried pastry dough does come fist sized as well, reminiscent of those found in Piana degli Albanesi near Palermo in Sicily.

The second I propose you try are the flavourful, well textured and shell shaped  Sfogliatelle  (also in picture above).  The pastry here is rich but rewarding - and wait for what is inside!  Its look outside is meant to echo stacked leaves and this is a speciality from Napoli and Campania province.  Lard, butter, shortening or magazine are utilised to brush the pastry.  Fillings can range from almond paste to ricotta.

The pick me up Tiramisu is available in an individual serve, completely seducing me with its liquor, creaminess and seductive lure.   The quality of the Mascarpone cheese is evident, with the attractive dark chocolate log lying on top of the captivating creation.

The quintessential Tiramisu provides a contrast against the almond flavoured  Ricciarelli.

The coffee is Molinari, the staff are friendly and the place gets real busy on weekends.  Massimo Papa's is open everyday from early morning till late arvo.  Vehicle parking can be a challenge for there are only three spots in front of the cafe bakery - and many a visitor just do the take away and leave.  If you are settling in down, it is best to park along the side road facing the Fraternity, although there are efforts to allow Massimo's customers also park in the immediate neighbour's.

The pretty and tasty fare that Massimo's provides remind me of Papa's in Haberfield, that other hub of Italian lifestyle in this greater Sydney region.  I understand that Massimo also had experience in that other Papa's before opening on his own accord in the Wollongong area.  There are also savoury options apart from the obvious sweet versions.  It is interesting, like in Haberfield, that many family groups come to Massimo Papa's.  There is more indoor than outdoor seating.  The staff are helpful, even offering water to a thirsty pooch I had with me one hot arvo. So are you convinced - we do not have to wait until it is Christmas to drop by this place!

A cup of hazelnut gelato goodness.

Molinari blend coffee with a snack of fruit tart.

The first initial flavour offerings in June 2015.

Hot Star Large Fried Chicken - Sydney NSW

The waiting and the anticipation at the Eastwood store of Hot Star.

View it as an effective business model, or a yummy chicken recipe, and that is Hot Star.  Already based in South-east Asia, it purports to have a Taiwanese crumbed recipe for mainly schnitzel-styled chicken on the go, although you can also order variations in snacks with curly fries, mushrooms and sweet potato.   It has been operating in Australia for around a year.  Its star performer on the menu literally is the rather chunky size of fried chicken slice, selling currently for AUD8.50 in the outlets in Brisbane Sunnybank, Adelaide Grote Street, Melbourne and Sydney areas.  I have been curious about its sensational start for Aussie sites and also with mainly Asian background youth gathering around its Liverpool Street branch in downtown Sydney.  I recently had an opportunity to try the chicken at its Eastwood store north-west of the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

The menu is indeed limited - chicken bites or the large piece meal versions.  That day I chose the large piece of chicken breast, available in original and crispy.  The young chap then asked for my preference of spiciness, low, medium or high.  Having done that, he gave me a new plastic bag like a ration handout and then we customers waited.  At Eastwood that day, it could have been hilarious - both sides, staff and customers, were just looking at each other whilst some frying and cooking were done behind sight. I quickly reckoned the plastic bag was an ingenious idea - apart from being used to hold the hot stuff, people could discern between those persons who had already ordered and those who had not, still not making up their minds.

The menu was laid out simply and visually in front of the counter.  The staff did not converse much but went about their tasks for most of the time.  You collect when your number is called.  The first thing I loved about the Hot Star chicken breast was its crumbed texture, yummy taste and flavourful chicken meat underneath.  There was only bone at the end.  There were no messy sauces, the product spoke for itself thus.   It looks like a dream snack for international students and tourists on the go. I may have missed something - did they sell drinks?

Eastwood I understand was the only latest outlet in the greater Sydney region to join fellow branches in Cabramatta, Hurstville, Burwood and Liverpool Street Sydney CBD.   Swanson and Elizabeth Streets in Melbourne CBD already have their own Hot Star stores.  The model can be temptingly effective - sell only a few key items, all using mostly the same crumbed ingredients, with a cooking method that can be learnt up fast by employees and site the sales outlets in busy thoroughfare streets, especially those that are still lively at night.  Hot Star has cleverly identified their key market and zoom down to them.  Hot Star is sparing on spending too much on retail space.

The magic lies in its rather special seasoning for the crumbed stuff - salty, spicy and a bit sweet all at the same time.   This who have visited the Shi Lin markets on Taipei evenings may recognise the Hot Star formula.  The chicken pieces are marinated in a mix of caster sugar, five spice powder, soy sauce, chili powder, pepper and rice vinegar.  The delightful pieces must then be coated with another mixture containing lightly beaten eggs, normal flour and sweet potato flour.  One limitation of Hot Star chicken creations is like for any fast or street food - it must be consumed hot and fresh from the deep fryer.

So where will Hot Star expand next in its range of products?  Most probably not any more, it has enjoyed the benefits of this minimalist menu, consistency in taste amongst its various outlets and an effective pay and collect arrangement.

Just the Ability to Choose

At times, I have flashes of gratitude in having liberties for which I have otherwise definitely taken for granted.

I visit my local butcher and get an astounding variety of meats to select from, including turkey, quail, kangaroo, lamb, pork, pheasant, crocodile and ostrich.  No one stops me as to my preferred choice or avoidance of specific meats. The vibes in my society is that nobody else can impose their thoughts or preferences on me.  If I am different from my neighbours, they happily respect my right in my preferences - because they also know that I would grant the same mutual respect to each of them in such decisions.  I do not have to go to an under cover seller of a meat I want to cook for my kitchen - and I am not confronted with legislation for me not to have a particular meat of my choosing.

Public transport is of necessity to me living near a capital city which amazingly charges possibly the highest rates for vehicle parking.  However my subconscious relies on the punctuality of the train, bus, tram, light rail or ferry system.  The scheduled times do fail, there are muck ups and weather does play havoc - but for really important things I have adjusted to private transport or plan my schedule to allow a buffer.  Public transport connections are okay and sometimes I have to wait at quiet platforms or walk along long pedestrian tunnels.  Overall I am happy utilising less of my car and just go with a taxpayer funded network of transport mechanisms.

The markets here are varied.  I can ignore the biggest two supermarket chains and support smaller but more competitive players. I can avoid the obvious commercialised products and spend my money at community venues which try to channel their produce directly from small farms and boutique arrangements.

I can select my kind of fauna pet and enjoy their company without fuss, unless they become a public nuisance and pose a threat to the vulnerable like the elderly or children whilst the pets are mine. Oh yes, I have to obtain the permission from my neighbours if I want to change the character of my dwelling or cut down a tree, but other than those matters,  I am kept to my privacy and style of living.  It is not in my character to create excessive noise after midnight as I do understand deeply the need of my neighbours - and myself - to have some quiet for restorative sleep.  If I am moving things for long periods during a scheduled day, it is only polite to let the neighbours know.

It can be so rich as to the spectrum of car, motor cycle, boat and caravan models I have access to in this country.  Maybe all of this can be excessive. All it requires is the ability to fund it cleverly and one can change models practically every three years.  There was no financial penalty to use certain roads until the advent of privatised infrastructure and the increasing use of electronic tolls.  Still there are thousands of kilometres of roads, especially in the Outback, where the saying that the best thing in life are free resonates with me. I use such roads to discover different lifestyles, cuisines, climate zones and cultures, all within my nation.  If only there were more declared public holidays and long weekends to do all these.

The personal freedoms extended to me include to those of investment, religion, superannuation, diet, lifestyle and choice of abode. Liberty can show its two edged sword when choice is hijacked by commercialism, confusion and lack of civility. Perhaps moderation is the answer but it is better still on balance to be able to savour a rich cake than a tasteless dough.

I have access to native speakers of over two hundred languages - and they are my fellow citizens or residents of this same country.  Even without learning their colourful and interesting linguistics, I can easily enjoy their cuisines and other aspects of their culture.  This reminds me of when I was growing up in another multi-cultural nation, when tolerance was practised and appreciated.  There is no need for officially sanctioned public holidays - every weekend means a significant cultural event for one of these varied groups who call Australia home.  Here I can visit different houses of worship without constraint - and understand more of what it is to be a citizen of the world.

I can choose between the quiet of suburbia and country side as opposed to the din of capital city centres.  I can be still picky about a slight increase in pollution and contamination to very high standards in the quality of the environment and its produce.  I can rub shoulders and let my hair down at music gigs and still later have a refuge of generous personal space.

The concept of dual citizenship can be strictly a no-no in some countries but my country of adoption encourages me to embrace the world and be adventurous. Where ever I am , I can always call Australia home - literally, figuratively and emotionally.  I have the liberty of expanding my horizons, my inner soul and sense of experience without my parent ship - Australia  - disowning me.  I can truly eventually return home.

Alas, but there is no perfect place on Earth.  I am grateful that the governance fabric of my nation is not easily torn by war and conflict, but at the same time I have to acknowledge the significant sacrifices made by ordinary Johns and Janes fighting battles and extreme conditions overseas.  One has to get used to accepting and tolerating distances when you come from Australia.  The cost of living is by no means paradise, especially with the prices for properties, dining out, paying for basic utilities and even shopping.  There are high taxes to be liable for in a country with a mature social security system.  Alcoholism, gambling, increasing health costs and the diverging gap between rich and poor continue to blight this country.

We do have a higher degree of freedom and expression of speech.  Such a base leads to more creativity, difference of opinion and feeding of the inner spirit.   We are not machine cogs pounding exclusively at material wealth whilst ignoring other things in life  - essentially we can maintain our human dignity more than most than those who live in most other countries.  We are not at the centre of the World nor do we want to be.  Our festivals may not be as boisterous as in some older civilisations but we borrow and take for our own the festivals from older cultures.  Individuals here can be bogged down in the usual human afflictions of greed, racism, diversion and buggery, but the Australian national nature has a few  big underlying characteristics that the rest of the world appreciates - our sense of humanity, humaneness and heart - that we are prepared to exercise and work on.