Tuesday, 17 June 2014

Citizen Corner, Surry Hills Sydney

Citizen Corner on Urbanspoon



It is not a brightly lit place and does not have too many tables.   Sited on a corner outlet, which could have the old dairy store or small pub long ago in Surry Hills, the Citizen Corner  is however walkable from Sydney's Central Station and bus terminus.  The Hills have sloping roads, though most with gentle gradients, at the southern end of the CBD.  Key roads like Albion, Bourke and Crown compete with Devonshire for the location of several interesting culinary experiences, offering mostly modern Australian, several breakfast and brunch places and trendy night gathering holes.  In the Hills, not all the culinary and foodie outlets are easily clustered in more obvious hubs - and they can be dispersed.  So Citizen Corner was relatively easy to find.

The demographic is twenty something, alternative, double income no kids and battlers.  The restaurant customers do come from the eastern suburbs, inner city hubs and tourist profiles.   You have places that open early and do not see sunset.  Others are only accessible around dusk.

The Citizen Corner, intersecting with Holt and Devonshire streets, does both breakky-brunch and dinner, the latter only from Thursdays to Sundays.  Quick lunch options are mainly Italian and pasta based but there is also the easy option of a beef burger, chicken schnitzel or poached trout.



Seafood and garden pea accompanying my risotto.

The relish of a spicy chorizo sauce added a new dimension to contrast with the subtlety of masterfully seared scallops and hand crafted celeriac mash.  I did not regret changing from my first selection of the tuna carpaccio with baby capers and chill oil, perhaps too confronting for my palate.

The service from the two female staff on the restaurant floor was friendly and relaxed. By 8pm on a Saturday evening, all the tables had been taken.The subdued lighting added to a chill out ambiance and diners can also watch the world go by outside the windows.  I reckon Citizen Corner is more befitting cosy small groups or couples.  Its compact size is just perfect for booking out exclusively the whole place for your very own party of maybe up to fifty guests.

There is an extensive and impressive drinks list, obviously carefully thought out. St Hallet Rose 2012 from the Barossa in South Australia was the choice to accompany my risotto, keeping it simple, relaxing and fresh.  There is no lack of adventure and variety, for more than several estates have a representative selection available from around Australia and New Zealand.  Sparkling wines are confined to French and Italian sources - with names like Piccolo and the Jacquart Brut champagne.

And then the mains - a wide choice, from fresh kingfish curry with basmati rice to the expected fillet steak with mushrooms, cream and shallots.  What caught my eye most was the fishermen's pie - with salmon, scallop, egg, cream , rocket, fish and prawn.  A must try for the next visit.  There is also the tempting pappardelle pasta with pork and duck ragout.  For entrees, I would recommend the fisherman's soup with a rouille crouton, heavenly for these current nippy nights.

I was too full for dessert but never mind others at the table had theirs and I saved this for a return visit.   The item waiting for me would be then caramelised apple and rhubarb tart with vanilla bean ice cream.  I find Citizen Corner to the core is so Australian in its offerings - a foundation of hearty and familiar Down Under favourites served with an eye for detail and carefully thought of ingredients.  Yet it has embraced dishes from the Indian Ocean, Italy and good old Mother England.
The setting is all at the same time retro, contemporary and village like. Pity they have a closed kitchen, but on a cold night, this did not matter much.




Saturday, 14 June 2014

Vivid Sydney

Inspiration, drama and visuals
Intricacies in the financial district.
Mutants at the Rocks.
Environmental concerns at Martin Place.
So zen, so anime, so chic - floating over Chinatown.
Euro candy, Latino fiesta or African rainbow?
Glow of gifts like on Christmas Eve.
Happy moods, red vibes and an inner swirl of letting go.

Tuesday, 10 June 2014

Lady J Cafe & Wine Bar - Bondi Junction, Sydney


Lady J Cafe & Wine Bar on Urbanspoon




A bit away from the mall and Westfield at Bondi Junction, at the far end of Oxford Street, you come across two very different food concept outlets but located side by side, not exactly conjoined twins but almost. Lady J has an west coast US feel plus Spanish influences, especially in its tables, cutlery boxes and food styles.  The Paleo lists out organic ingredients.  It was a nippy Sunday morning and the obvious choice was for warm comfort breakfasts and a strong but good cup of Gabriel barista coffee.   The decor also had more character at Lady J, with its pervasive wood feel, so it had a more natural appeal on the rather first cool weekend of winter for Sydney this year.  I could not help comparing this to a smaller version of Wollongong CBD's Three Chimneys - hey this was a bar, cafe and modern Australian outlet with a special feel, in Sydney's iconic eastern suburbs.







Service was prompt, friendly and unobtrusive. There are not many tables but they were spaced beautifully.  Fine attentive touches of wall art, accessories and shelved bottles and glasses - they all added to the unique feel.   There was an open air flow view to the street. Oh yes, also Brasserie Bread rolls, sourdough and baked stuff.   I have not been there at night, but I was already advised to try the tapas. My Eggs Benedict, laden with fine avocado slices and a wonderful Hollandaise sauce, was one of the better ones I have come across.   The engaging staff gave a big beaming smile when coffee was requested and even came to say good bye.  My cappuccino was refinedly designed to catch the eye. And then you can go shopping to your heart's content.





What A Ten Dollar Note Means


What difference does a ten dollar note mean? When I first migrated to Australia, that represented more than my budget for breakfast and lunch during a working day in the Big Smoke.  25 years later the same note has less meaning, has reduced value and is worth only a shadow of its former self....or is it?   In plastic form, the Australian ten dollar note looks more sprightly, feels better and is actually more durable than its paper version of many years ago.  I examine one again and notice more security features, better design and a more friendly feel.

When commuter trips have risen in price, coffee and tea with a biscuit can add to ten dollars in a fancy cafe setting you get to enjoy for under an hour. A simple potted plant comes up to more than this amount when you check out at the counter of a nursery. A freshly squeezed fruit or veg juice cup is creeping up to around that for large.   However when you purchase things in bulk, you get more out of this note. In wholesale markets, you can cart away a whole box of your favourite fruit at closing time.  You can travel further on public transport as a pensioner. A cocktail at a bar costs more than this, so with one fancy dish of modern Australian cuisine even at breakfast time.   A child can obtain perhaps three goldfish. You may fill up perhaps at least one-fifth of basic unleaded petrol in the tank of a car.  What was once seen as two dollars may now be five, what was once the power of five can now be only be bought for ten. How much wi-fi capacity you get depends on your provider and perhaps the time of day or night.

Ten dollars stretch better when buying on line for airfares, holiday accommodation and restaurant vouchers.  Ten dollars put aside each day can still accumulate to much in superannuation, loan repayments and a long term nest egg - unless wiped out by inflation, speculative values and health costs. Ten dollars saved can be put to a better use, like creating a smile on a  child's face, a puppy's jump and a grandmother's satisfaction. Ten dollars can be the difference between an unhealthy sugary stuff and a treat in better fruit or eggs.  Ten dollars contributed consistently to a superannuation or home saving deposit may mean nothing when you are 25 years old but offer a satisfying reflection on what you have done right looking back when you are 52.

Ten dollars mean much more when you are raising a child - or a few of them.  ten dollars can give much more satisfaction to teenager and a retiree than a middle aged person.  Financial value is relative but is better measured when it is translated in what it can do in things that money usually cannot buy.  It may represent the slight advantage in having a better performing sports shoe or having a safer option. It can transform the taste in our palate or the aroma in our nostrils.  It may mean a better hair style or a faster choice.  Ten dollars in the nick of time can springboard an individual to commence a different, more promising direction and path.  Ten dollars can bring to reality the fine distinction between carrying on an endless journey of poverty to one with better education and potential.  The same amount can also lead to eventual oblivion if spent on damaging activities and addictive consumption.

They do say the best things in life are free. I say perhaps they can be obtained for under ten dollars.
Entry paid to a reserve or national park.  Watching a movie in a dark hall which influences us for the rest of our lives.  Spending time with children for under ten dollars and teaching them indirectly on financial wisdom.  Ten dollars for a charity run. The measure we place on a barter item or exchange of currency is up to us.  It is not the number that we or society ascribes that is helpful all the time, but the quality of what we can do with less or with prudence.  Do try to conjure up with the best possible thing yourself with your own perceived or actual ten dollars! Then do it.

Gumshara Ramen - Sydney Chinatown

Gumshara Ramen on Urbanspoon



The progress of what was simply street food with noodles and tasty soup, whether it is referred to as ramen in this contemporary age, or called shina soba until the 1950s, is a  fascinating journey of cultural fusion, care for ingredients and continuing innovation. Soba can be unique to what we know as Japanese cuisine, but the ramen is said to be a Japanese way of saying la mian in Mandarin, literally meaning hand pulled noodles.  Depending on which part of Asia you visit, there are various versions of such hand made noodles, apart from the Indian sub-continent and the Middle East.  The mainland Chinese form of such a dish was already cooked in thick and starchy concoctions of gravy.

Today this thickness in noodle soup dishes was confronted by me at the Gumshara Ramen stall in the often crowded but unassuming food court at the end of Dixon Street, Sydney Chinatown, bordering with Goulburn Street.   Never have I seen such gooey richness and concentrated so-called soup accompanying noodles.  There were the usual half hard boiled eggs with outstanding yolks, Nori seaweed garnish and compulsory pork portions. I had looked forward to the version I finally had - not just with tonkotsu broth but with the special magic of fish based stock. It was a revelation - the Japanese had combined the best flavours of the sea with the rewarding essence of the versatile bovine. It may not be to everyone's preference, but I liked most of it, although the bowl I had was really rich, though I would never ask for a dilution of such broth.

A food court with mostly, if not all, Asian dishes usually has people usually sitting tightly together savouring what they love best - and in Australia, this means anything from Indonesian padang rice to Hainan chicken and Korean bim bap.   At times the best food can be found hidden amidst the noise, the clutter and such crowdedness. What would happen if Gumshara had equity backed funding and moved to a fancy setting?   Would the taste be commensurate with what is to be paid? At around ten dollars a bowl, this may be the best bargain in Japanese ramen in Sydney.  Noodles are made from basic ingredients like salt, water, wheat flour and alkaline mineral water.   The proof is in the soup, the recipe behind it and how the soups are made hour after hour.   Whether it contains natural flavouring stuff like skipjack tuna flakes or pork ribs, the proportions do count in the outcomes of the final product.

Gumshara is also noted for its rather obvious chunky offerings of pork ribs on the bone, braised sufficiently to provide opportunities for crunchiness and texture.  The other alternative, also popular with many other competitors of Gumshara, is the cha shu or sliced barbecued or braised pork, some with red coloured rinds.  I avoid the lactate fermented bamboo shoots but do have a soft spot for those season boiled eggs.  Freshly made ramen puts us off the instant varieties and these are often at the opposite ends of the spectrum for satisfying gratification and quality finesse.  The bowl I consumed looked to me comparable to Takayama ramen - but Gumshara has produced its own feel of a rather delicate dish.

So what makes Gumshara different from others? Is it the more buttery and collagen laden broth? The name itself evokes concentration or franticness by one's self and not being recognisant of the people or surroundings around. Is this an effect once one dives into the Gumshara soup? Is the food much more oily than one expects from Japanese cuisine, mostly due to the liberal utilisation of the flavours from pork bone and ribs?  I reckon each has to decide for him or herself and not be taken by the hype but immerse in reality.  I would return to Gumshara but maybe more on an early morning or mid-afternoon.  And ramen is always perfect for a nippy winter's day.





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