Selegie, Singapore

A stroll through Selegie Road in Singapore reveals a host of architecture, lifestyles and sights.

Maybe predominantly Indian, with touch of colonialism, but soaking in influences from this multi-cultural island. Selegie provides interesting footpath heritage, with impressions harking back to the fifties or seventies in the last century and is accessible from the Bugis Junction MRT and the Bras Basah Road precincts. It also provides a link to Singapore's Little India - Serangoon.

Albert Street Markets, Singapore

Steamed sweet cakes (picture above) using grounded glutinous rice flour, golden syrup and brown sugar, are traditionally made to celebrate the Lunar New Year. This traditional concoction is chewy-sticky and best eaten with grated coconut. Referred to as nain gao in Mandarin or tnee kueh in Singapore/Malaysian Fujian dialect, they can be consumed soft or hard, depending on personal preferences. They are steamed on low heat for up to eight hours and so are a product of patience and love. The symbolic act of eating this nian gao is to imply that one elevates one's prospects to a higher level for the new year ahead.

Two street food snacks that caught my eye along Albert Street were the kueh koci (above) and the pancake creation, the ban chien kueh. (below)

Notice that they are all served on strips of banana leaves. The koci is essentially a miniature pyramid-shaped glutinous rice flour wrap filled with sweet peanut paste and/or grated coconut mix, to be served as snacks at teatime. The pancakes below have aromatic roasted peanuts, sesame seeds and corn inside.

The whole spectrum of tropical fruits are on display above, ranging from different types of bananas, yellow and pink-tinged mangoes, hairy skinned red coloured rambutans and brown skinned longans.

Pongal Festival, Serangoon - Singapore

Pongal or Sankaranthi is a thanksgiving festival for a good harvest, celebrated originally in Tamil Nadu, South India. It also heralds the auspicious month of Thai in the Hindu calendar. Boiling of milk in clay pots (pictured above) is one of the significant rituals carried out to celebrate abundance for a household. Notice that the pots all have painted mango leaves on their sides.

I had the opportunity to observe this festival in Singapore's Little India - Serangoon - one January week day.

Fresh ginger shoots are seen in a stall, perhaps reflecting the agricultural roots of this festival.

Purple coloured sugar cane are also made available amidst the varied produce and wares on offer. (above) The sugar cane is valued by the Fujian community of South China in celebrating the Lunar New Year, which often coincides with the Pongal Festival in Malaysia and Singapore.

Coconuts hold a very special place in an Hindu festival. Above image captures a display of young coconuts in their shell and some smeared with festive colourings. There are many stalls along Campbell Lane for the duration of this festival and it can be a sight to behold and discover.

Cattle symbolically honoured as acknowledgement for their toil on fields to help humans reap the benefits of a harvest. In Campbell Lane, Serangoon in Singapore, they are washed and had their horns painted. They were also garlanded with flowers, tinkling bells and multi-coloured beads.

Flower garlands, made from fresh blooms, are a requirement in any Indian festivals, together with fresh limes (picture above). Below, the main strip of Serangoon Road gets festive with colourful decorations hung overhead.

Waterloo Street, Singapore

Street walks are one of my fav past times, whether in a bustling metropolis, quiet village or heritage area. Recently I had an  opportunity to explore Waterloo Street in the city state of Singapore - the stretch between Bras Basah and Rochor Roads. The road was renamed, by the colonial British administration, from Church Street to its currently used label, in 1858 to commemorate the Duke of Wellington's victory in the famous battle in far away Europe.

The northern side of Waterloo Street is the site of flower markets, shopping centres, dry produce shops with five-foot ways, the well patronised Kuan Im Hood Cho Temple (picture above), the Maghain Aboth Synagogue and the busy Sri Krishnan Temple. For the visitor, it offers a microcosm of what Singapore is all about - trading, the mingling of various immigrant groups and shared values. Recent developments in this precinct include the campus of the Singapore Management University.

Painted wall murals (above) and feeding pigeons (below) add to the variety seen in the pedestrian mall section of Waterloo Street. Tamils refer to this road with emphasis on the Hindu temple, whilst the Fujian community in Singapore describe it as the street in Bencoolen where the vegetarian hall is. The Teochews refer to Waterloo Street as the road of horse carriages.

Below image, a typical back packer's hostel places the guest in the centre of much colour, activity and access to street food. I visited Waterloo Street during the busy preparations leading to the arrival of the Lunar New Year of the Water Dragon.

Kent Ridge Park, Singapore

The park may not fit the pervasive stereotyped perception of Singapore being an island of high rises, shopping centres and disciplined restrictions. Here, at the Kent Ridge Park in almost the centre of this city state, one can walk, mountain-bike, roam or run free under the shade of secondary equatorial forest trees, enjoy vistas of greenery and breathe in the air as Singapore founder Sir Stamford Raffles once did. Located near the higher education hub and the nearby campus of the National University of Singapore, the forty-seven hectare park provides twenty fitness stations for a refreshing and healthy time especially during early mornings and evenings. Acacias, tembusus, angsanas and dillenias predominate in the tree population.

Flora meant for lining public sites, roads and reserves are grown here (picture above) in one of the Government nurseries seen from a look out point at Kent Ridge Park.

Amidst all the greenery, we came across a low density apartment bloc known simply as the Peak. (above). I noticed the residents were mostly expats, and a couple of Eurasian children came out for a bicycle ride. Reminiscent of Hong Kong's Peak, the property commands a view of Singapore and the nearby isles. One can actually take the trail for over two hours from here, via the Alexander Arch, to reach the Henderson Waves Walk near Faber Park.

The calm of this park, replete with wild orchids and monkey cup plants, do not fully reveal that it was one of the sites for a significant British battalion during the Japanese occupation of Singapore, in the mid 20th century. A plaque in a car park commemorates the end of World War 2. Nearby South Buona Vista Road is the location of the battle for Pasir Panjang in 1942. Today Kent Ridge Park is a vital portion of the Singapore Park Connector Network project.

The battle for Bukit Chandu (Opium Hill in Malay) is marked by an interpretative centre in a well kept bungalow (pictures above and below). Here one of the fiercest battles was conducted by the colonial British Army and local forces before Singapore capitulated to the Imperial Japanese forces in 1942. Lt Adnan bin Saidi of the Malay Regiment is remembered as heroically leading his men in this battle.