Somewhere Along The Way

A much dissatisfied looking passenger, obviously engrossed with himself, unpleasantly dismisses the prepacked salad served to him by the cabin crew,as part of his passenger entitlement on the upper deck of the Airbus A380. I had noticed that this passenger was introverted, non-communicative on most things and had an obsessive look at his computer. Was he on a work or leisurely trip? There was so much tension about him that it seemed sad. Was this his natural self, or was he contemplating a serious problem? One wanted to half break the ice with him, or just avoid him all together.

The third month of the current summer in the Wollongong area does not seem to break out of its cloudy stance and rainy episodes. As we roll into the completion of the proverbial one hundred days, I can count on less than the fingers of both hands the number of stifling hot temperature days and nights. The breezes come in as clock work latest by 3am even after the most dehydrating hours before.

Emerging evident construction of the proposed second bridge,between Penang island and mainland of Peninsular Malaysia,can be seen rising like mushrooms under water, as my commercial flight plane flew over the straits. This new link for vehicles on the south-eastern part of the island symbolises the continued changes on my home isle since I left it many years ago. Will it bring more positive, rather than negative things to the state?

I have not seen the father of my good mate Cheang for a few years now. Nor with Helen, Wendy, Julie and Yock Chuen in downtown Singapore. All of us slid easily into conversation and engagement as if we had been catching up with each other on a regular basis for years. I am still amazed in this respect.

Cosmo seemed hyperactive but interested on intent when meeting up with me for the very first time. His fur is thick, healthy and vibrant, his eyes alert and curious.
He naughtily played around the foot of the dining table as he both watched me and energetically pranced around. Finally, he came forward to whiff at my hands, as I lay on the floor at his level. What a memorable hook up in Singapore.

The acar is a well known salad in Straits Chinese cuisine which utilises the variety of crunchy and different coloured vegetables, all cut into smaller than bite size. The pieces are mixed up with a chili based condiment and sprinkled with sesame seeds. The result is often personal and unique, depending on the skills, concentration and preferences of the food preparer. Recently back in Penang Island, I had a rather satisfying version made up by my aunt Kuchai at home. It had the satisfying bite of well mixed portions of the ingredients, plus the enhancing flavours of the condiments used.

Aoba Ramen, ION Orchard Road, Singapore

I ventured into Aoba, which specialises in Hokkaido ramen, by chance. I had targeted the Orchard Road shopping precinct in Singapore for two main purposes - to check out the much hyped flagship store of Abercrombie & Fitch in the island republic, and to view the Buddha on display at Ngee Ann City complex, carved out of a solid and sizable piece of jade unearthed in Canada in the year 2000. In between was hunger and the ION Shopping centre, a recent addition to the plethora of shopping havens in Singapore. Aoba has outlets in VivoCity, the stepping stone to Sentosa Island and the Universal Studios theme park in Singapore; Manpuku, the Japanese Gourmet Town in Tampines, to the north-east; and also in the IMM Buidling in Jurong East. Above, the delectable adegashi tofu which serves as a good accompaniment to the ramen bowls.

I did find the taste and quality of soup a bit lacking from my expectations, even if I requested my fav seafood version. (picture above - with prawns, squid slices, dried oysters and a braised hard boiled egg). Service was friendly and quick, and the day I was there for a quick snack, crowded and lively. Ramen is a national obsession in Japan and it is like tribal and sporting dimension when it comes to territory, likes and dislikes affecting this dish. Aoba is part of a listed company on the Singapore Stock Exchange. Families, couples, business colleagues and office workers slid in and out of this ION outlet. Later the same evening I caught up with Chet at the Marmalade Pantry in the same ION complex and I must say their cupcakes do stand apart from the rest - I cannot however say this for the ramen at Aoba.

The Melba Cafe, Auckland CBD

Tucked away along Vulcan Lane in mid downtown Auckland is a small and unassuming cafe that has won the hearts of its clients - the Melba. The blend is Arabica, the emphasis of the flavour is thick and rich Latin American and the baristas friendly and cheerful. Vulcan Lane lies next to the High Street precinct but easily accessible from the main strip of Queen Street. I have not had the opportunity of visiting their other branches in Hurstmere Road, Ellerslie and Hardinge Street, but I was captivated by the atmosphere of the Vulcan Lane site. The blend is unique, the relaxation natural and the regulars are seen like family.

Teas, juices, beers and wines are also available if you are not a coffee drinker. Porridge, granola, bagels, pancakes, fritters, hash and omelettes are also served in most of the Melba outlets.

The Cassette Number Nine Bar & Restaurant, Auckland CBD

Wandering around central Auckland, we chanced upon a retro themed bar, with the rather 70s name of Cassette. Apparently the business is new, but the furnishings and feel hark back to rock. We did not see any live gig that afternoon, but just had a kind of pub lunch there, and this was heavily skewed towards Italian pasta and pizzas. Outside is Vulcan Lane (picture above) , with its rather small but unique range of retail outlets, with hints of Melbournish charm and English roots.

Image credits to S. K. Teoh.

Penang Chinese Food

Steamed egg squares, topped up by finely cut spring onions or chives, remind me of childhood meals - I still look forward to them, with a custard-like silken smooth surface. I anticipate the bite into one of such warm slices, or the texture when consumed with steamed jasmine rice. It gives a light and appetising sensation and is not too difficult to prepare, even when rushed at dinnertime after coming home from work on a weekday evening. You can also add small bits of cut shitake mushrooms, ham, prawns or minced pork. Place the mixture preferably in a round dish to steam and garnish with sesame oil for taste.

A classic soup (above) with the positive nutrients of red dates, peanuts and chicken feet on the bone slow simmered in rich stock. Flavourful, enhancing and aromatic. Do not try to focus on the chicken feet, they are there for a purpose to add to the richness of the dish and there is no need to eat them. Interesting enough, chicken feet are also utilised as food in Mexico, Trinadad and Jamaica. They are also referred to as phoenix claws or feng jiao in Mandarin. In the kitchen preparation, cooks do remove the outer yellow layer of such chicken feet before proceeding to utilise them. Cloves of garlic and dried mushroom slices are also put in the soup shown above.

The ultimate quality of stir-fried vegetables depends on their cut, stir-frying techniques and accompaniment of carefully selected companions in the recipe - be they carrots or garnishings like dried shrimp, garlic and more.

Fish cutlets resting in a heady mix of soy sauced based gravy, garnished with chili cut slices,

deep fried shrimp and spring onions. Best served with steamed rice, this dish serves as an everyday alternative to seafood in batter or grilled, and reflects as one of several dishes found at the lunch or dinner table in a Penang Chinese home.

Penang Buddhist Association, Georgetown

Located in a bustling corner of downtown Georgetown, Penang Island, Malaysia, is a haven of tranquility, reflection and prayer. The building is European, the gardens are immaculately maintained and the theme is Buddhist. Around the sizable shrine hall, which is paved with well mopped English styled tiles and graced by furniture inlaid with mother of pearl, are walkways, flora of various sorts and the feeling of space. Across the road is an open ground named after a colonial, Brown Gardens. I had the occasion of visiting this Penang Buddhist Association recently for the Lunar New Year. This venue is a childhood favourite of mine and always holds dear memories.

I always take my time to look in amazement at the Bodhi tree on the outer grounds of this association. (picture above) This banyan fig giant was planted here to commemorate the Enlightenment of the Buddha over 25 centuries ago. The tree is also sacred to religious followers of Janaism and Hinduism, which share roots with Buddhism back on the Indian sub-continent. The Bodhi is native to Indo-China, southwest China and South Asia.

The Association has added new water features at the back of the property (image below), complete with a Japanese-styled bridge, carp and rock formations. On the morning of my visit with the immediate family, little but brightly coloured butterflies were observed frolicking amongst the blooms and leaves of the plants on the nearby garden bed.

The cast iron staircases (above) and the tropical fashioned windows or doors with slanting wooden slats (below) hark back more to the Victorian era of design than to any Buddhist or locally inspired patterns. The Association grounds now host accommodation for senior folks, kindergartens, a library and meeting facilities, also providing other enablers to support community requirements, but all within and accessible to in a complex. Even if temperatures are uncomfortably hot and humid outside, the high ceilings of its main hall always provide instant relief. A dainty pagoda welcomes you at the entrance, accompanied by a man made pool.

Penang Malay Food

The term "Malay" can be a hotch-potch of several influences and cultures in South-east Asia and its definition can vary, depending on context, purpose and academic intent. It can encompass Javanese backgrounds from the days of the Majapahit Empire, the Bugis from Sulawesi, the Minangkabaus from Sumatra, Siamese connotations, Arab trading connections and the intermarriages with Indians and Chinese during the days of the Malacca Sultanate. These groups of people living in south-east Asia were largely Hinduised or had animistic beliefs before the advent of Islam on the sea routes across the Indian Ocean and on to the Straits of Malacca. Such a rich background has also resulted perhaps in one of the world's strongest blends of fusion food, which in contemporary times has been categorised as Malay food. Above image, the crunchy deep fried squid.

Eggs, whether as fried omelettes or as hard boiled wholes, are popularly immersed in a light chili based curry to accompany with steamed rice. (image above) The most popular dish in this range is the telor Belada, which can be kept for eating for a few days.

There are key elements of Malay cuisine, ranging from the hot to sour and savoury. The belacan (picture above) is a primary condiment to accompany any other dish - be it a salad, curry, main dish or entree - at the dining table. Made up of pound chillies and shrimp paste, and given a dressing of kaffir lime juice, it sets the tone for the palate. Essential ingredients in this cuisine are lemongrass; a wild ginger called the bunga kantan; coconut milk; tamarind paste and juice; cumin (jintan putih); fennel (jintan manis); wet tumeric (kunyit); daun kesum ( or laksa leaf); and freshly grated coconut known as the kerasik. Such a variety of ingredients are mixed and pound by mortar and pastel traditionally in to a concoction called the rempah, which is required to be made ready before actually cooking. You may note the Thai, Indian and Portuguese influences in the choice of ingredients mentioned.

The ayam masak merah, or red sauced cooked chicken ( above), can e made at home utilising the following recipe, taken from Ivan Cho's CintaDapur:

Ingredients:

3 pieces chicken leg (cut into bite size chunks)

2 tbs turmeric powder1 onion (half cut into strips, the other half cut fine)

3-4 dried chili (crushed)

2 birds eye chili (sliced fine)

1 x thumbsized ginger,

sliced fine4 X chopped tomatoes

2 tbs tomato paste

2 tbs tomato sauce

3 tbs sweet soya sauce (also known as kecap manis)

1 tbs sugar

Vegetable oil

Method:

Marinade chicken in turmeric powder for half hour

In a mortar, make a paste by griding half an onion, dried chili, birds eye chili and ginger into a paste.

Alternatively, place them all into a blender with 1 tbs of vegetable oil

Heat up a pot with 4 tbs of oil then shallow fry the chicken till brown and crispy; well yellow and crispy in this instance (chicken does not need to be complete cooked at this stage) – If your pot is not big enough, consider frying the chicken in batches.

Remove the chicken and let it rest on paper towels

With the remaining oil, add in the spice paste and allow to fry for 1-2 minutes

Add in the tomato paste, tomato sauce, chopped tomatoes, sweet soya sauce and sugar and give it a good stir

Add in half cup of water and allow the mixture to simmer until it thickens into a gravy like texture

Add in chicken and allow to cook thoroughly.

Serve with steamed rice

Favourite dishes fro me when growing up in Malaysia include the nasi lemak; belacan kangkong; ikan bakar or deep fried fish (picture above), with a stuffing of selected rempah and garlic fries as dressing; mutton soup; nasi kerabu; beef or chicken satay in skewers; beef rendang and sambal prawns. The taste obtained for such dishes can change from region to region within Peninsular Malaysia, and Penang versions can be so different from those in Johor or Pahang or Kelantan. Impressions on non-Malaysians of this cuisine can be described in two significant words - tangy and pungent.

Dome Coffee Cafe, Penang

Living on the eastern seaboard of Australia, I have never visited a Dome Coffee cafe on this continental island, and the fact that Perth, home to Dome Coffee, is as far away from me as New York is to L.A., does not help. However , I have never been disappointed in any of my limited forays into one of their cafes, whether in Kuala Lumpur or Singapore. Recently, whilst waiting for mates to arrive, I could not resist checking out the DomeCoffee cafe in Queensbay Mall, Penang island. I ordered the afternoon tea set (picture bove) which cost me less than AUD7. Clockwise, from nine o'clock in the image, are curry puffs, Australian styled scones, with the accompanying raspberry preserves and cream, with a slice of brownie cookie in the centre. The scones were perfect, not hard, but breaks up so nicely when you bite into them.

The Queensbay Mall outlet of Dome Coffee (picture above) has laminated marble top tables for guests, is spaciously laid out and evokes of a colonial atmosphere. Dome also operates in Dubai; Abu Dhabi; Metro Manila and Makati in the Phillipines; in Bahrain's Manama; and at the Male International Airport on arrival in the Maldives.

The latte (above) I had matched up to Australian standards, and the bite sized curry puff (below) stood up to the expectations of this ex-Penangite. The menu is extensive, including pizzas, cookies, muffins, waffles, milkshakes, burgers and teas. Head office is in Maylands in WA, and naturally the bulk of the Australian operations are in that state, with only a single outlet in George Street, Brisbane and two in Hobart, Tasmania.

The Sun Yat Sen Memorial, Georgetown, Penang

Dr Sun Yat Sen was the man ascribed to have founded a modern day republic for China in 1911, following a number of rebellions, massive fund raising efforts from private citizens and the sacrifice of various individuals. Dr Sun's connections with Penang is encapsulated in his visit to the Sio Lang Teng, a club for ethnic Chinese merchants, where he first met with his ultimately fervent supporters in Malaya for the Revolutionary cause - Goh Say Eng and Ooi Kim Kheng. Many a common folk led an oppressive life under the yoke of the Qing Dynasty - and the Qing Dynasty itself was faced with the challenges of internal rebellions, colonisation in various parts of coastal China by several Western powers and a reluctance to meet effectively with the opportunities of modernism.

Goh Say Eng was my maternal grand uncle, and he is depicted (above ) in front of the Sun Yat Sen Memorial in Georgetown, Penang, as one of three statues in united and coordinated effort to fight for the end of feudal rule in China. The Memorial is located in a building housing the Penang Philomatic Union, which is a reading club started by the political Chinese Revolutionay Alliance or Tung Meng Hooi. This Alliance began in Tokyo in 1905 to begin efforts to achieve the implementation of a Chinese republic, finally proclaimed on 11 October 1911. Goh Say Eng founded the Penang chapter of this Alliance under the rule of the colonial British administration.

On the Chinese mainland, examples of the injustice, debauchery and economic hardships under Qing Dynasty rule are illustrated in the Penang Memorial by a series of detailed and interesting miniature vistas. Above picture shows typical bullying by local militia in Chinese towns and below, opium smoking and playing with prostitutes were rife by officials of the Qing Dynasty in China.

The tin mines of Perak (depicted above) were a huge economic drawcard for immigrants from various southern Chinese provinces, from the middle of the 19th century, to come settle in what was then Malaya (today's peninsular Malaysia). The political and civil turmoil in China in the last hundred years of the Qing Dynasty also created incentives for mass-scale migration out of China to various parts of the world, including Australia, the USA, Thailand, Indonesia and the Philippines. Below, a quiet afternoon in the Penang base of the Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall, which was officially opened in 2010.

Dr Sun had the privilege of being accommodated in various addresses in Georgetown, Penang whilst he was visiting to secure funding from and meeting up with overseas Chinese based in South-east Asia. Above picture depicts the various mansions and town houses that were involved, some of which still exist today. Penang offered such significant support, politically, financially and physically in the serious efforts to overthrow the last feudal dynasty in China that even the headquarters of Dr Sun's overseas coordinated efforts was moved from Singapore. Below is a depiction of the two headed snake, a term implied to Qing Dynasty officials who played a dangerous game of pleasing two opposing sides.

A representation of a regally seated Dr Sun (above) follows traditions in Chinese culture for respected and honoured national figures. This is reminiscent of the primary and national memorial in Nanjing in central China. Below is a representation of life in downtown Singapore in the early years of the 20th century, with a trishaw ride in downtown Chinatown.