A Touch of Chinatown
Starting with the brunch of yum cha and finishing up with a ten-course home cooked banquet, the day had been celebrated with touches of Chinatown, in a country that partly shares the same time zone as East Asia and in a city that has seen radical demographic transformations in the past twenty years when compared to its previous two hundred.
Zilvers, located on an upper floor in a complex near the old Sydney Custom House and across the relatively new tram tracks of the Capitol Theatre complex, was already chock-a-block at 11am on a Sunday morning. The usual variety of steamed, fried and braised dishes, savoury, sweet, sour and more, came steaming hot or ice cold atop trolleys pushed between round tables of varying seating numbers. For some unexplained reason, the train of yum cha offerings stopped coming and then resumed with the same old tried ones instead of new ones to keep the palates of customers going. My table of four decided that that it was not worth being stuck playing the old records, so to speak, and we ducked out to a Bangkok cafe.
This indoor outlet with clean white tables did not match expectations, with insipid and bland food, only perhaps mitigated by its fiery fresh cut red chillies and its marinated deep fried chicken wings. So we tracked to a Dixon Street Mall bakery and checked out its tempting pastries, fresh tofu and frozen chicken buns. The place was alive with human traffic, with our eyes glued to the tiramisu, custard cheesecake and chocolate creations. We then crossed to Ultimo Road and explored the dried and cured meats of Wong's Barbecue Meats. There in a covered display case were lap cheongs (Cantonese cured sausages) of a few kinds - liver-based, pork, chicken, dark and light red. I noticed the hams and other meats staring down upon us from behind the counter. The roast duck was from the old school, circa 1960s, associated with grandfathers using choppers to cut up the meat on solid wooden round blocks.
We went past Sussex Street South, where a pair of youngsters were intent on checking out every shop with the fresh green and black-lipped abalone sitting like jewelled pendants on shells. In World Square, I had to re-visit Rosa Tea House for the tea canisters wrapped with Japanese designs.
After a relatively hot and humid day, it was good to settle down to a dinner with a sampling from not just southern China abut also South-east Asia. Succulent fish steaks were cooked in simmering curry. There was roast pork with crackle and Hainan chicken rice garnished with condiments of ginger, lemon-flavoured chili paste and dark soy sauce. Fried tofu cubes had a zesty tang to them, as opposed to the smoothness of stir-fried vegetables. New season cherries were served as dessert with green and red grapes, cooling Nashi pears, water melon slices and more. Barley soup was served hot to cleanse the palate as a finale.
Zilvers, located on an upper floor in a complex near the old Sydney Custom House and across the relatively new tram tracks of the Capitol Theatre complex, was already chock-a-block at 11am on a Sunday morning. The usual variety of steamed, fried and braised dishes, savoury, sweet, sour and more, came steaming hot or ice cold atop trolleys pushed between round tables of varying seating numbers. For some unexplained reason, the train of yum cha offerings stopped coming and then resumed with the same old tried ones instead of new ones to keep the palates of customers going. My table of four decided that that it was not worth being stuck playing the old records, so to speak, and we ducked out to a Bangkok cafe.
This indoor outlet with clean white tables did not match expectations, with insipid and bland food, only perhaps mitigated by its fiery fresh cut red chillies and its marinated deep fried chicken wings. So we tracked to a Dixon Street Mall bakery and checked out its tempting pastries, fresh tofu and frozen chicken buns. The place was alive with human traffic, with our eyes glued to the tiramisu, custard cheesecake and chocolate creations. We then crossed to Ultimo Road and explored the dried and cured meats of Wong's Barbecue Meats. There in a covered display case were lap cheongs (Cantonese cured sausages) of a few kinds - liver-based, pork, chicken, dark and light red. I noticed the hams and other meats staring down upon us from behind the counter. The roast duck was from the old school, circa 1960s, associated with grandfathers using choppers to cut up the meat on solid wooden round blocks.
We went past Sussex Street South, where a pair of youngsters were intent on checking out every shop with the fresh green and black-lipped abalone sitting like jewelled pendants on shells. In World Square, I had to re-visit Rosa Tea House for the tea canisters wrapped with Japanese designs.
After a relatively hot and humid day, it was good to settle down to a dinner with a sampling from not just southern China abut also South-east Asia. Succulent fish steaks were cooked in simmering curry. There was roast pork with crackle and Hainan chicken rice garnished with condiments of ginger, lemon-flavoured chili paste and dark soy sauce. Fried tofu cubes had a zesty tang to them, as opposed to the smoothness of stir-fried vegetables. New season cherries were served as dessert with green and red grapes, cooling Nashi pears, water melon slices and more. Barley soup was served hot to cleanse the palate as a finale.
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