Chinatown Delights, Sydney

A walking tour of any niche cultural district, in any city around the world, is always worth the effort. Forget about structure; sink into the atmosphere brought from places far away and so different from the mainstream; and get absorbed into a pace removed from our otherwise everyday lives.

So-called Chinatowns outside China offer perspectives that may surprise the eye and delight the heart – and we are not just talking of yum cha. Sydney is no exception, although the conglomeration of Chinatown businesses, malls and streets can blend seamlessly into the other major precincts of the central business district. The term Chinatown can be a misnomer, as it can contain things that are not Chinese in origin, but which are brought by already immigrant Chinese from other countries and cultures. The variety of spicy Thai soups, Vietnamese spring rolls, Indonesian salads and Malaysian curries in Sydney’s Chinatown is a good example. More illustrative is the South Indian murtabak available from a Chinese-owned outlet along Goulburn Street – the dish is a lamb or chicken laden rich pancake, originated by Indian Muslims (Mamak) and widely popular in Malaysia and Singapore.

One expects an Oriental theme in the architecture and signage of retail outlets, and this is amply provided when strolling through the Dixon Street Mall. What caught my eye is the prevalence of al fresco styled dining (or lunching) as if one were in Europe.

Off side, towards Harbour Street, I came across a vista of contrasts, with colonial facades on one side and the inevitable red lanterns on the other. Uighur, Korean and Japanese outlets have sprouted on this side of Chinatown as well. In the adjoining Darling Harbour, the Cantonese Gardens (reputedly the largest outside China itself) have matured and host so-called Western fashioned wedding ceremonies and visitors looking for a place of calm in the city. Paddys Market, operating for four business days a week, has a collection of stalls run by as many ethnic groups as the varied population of Sydney itself. The Capitol Theatre is offering a hit stage show from the UK, Billy Elliot, but finds itself surrounded by Hong Kong styled barbecue meat shops, computer retail stalls and over packed grocery shops.

Backpackers still find value in the relatively low cost of Chinatown meals at food courts. So do students from the University of Technology which has its main campus between Glebe and Chinatown. I was introduced by a good friend to a modest Thai café at the junction of Wentworth and Elizabeth Streets (maybe a stretch to still consider it as part of Chinatown). The food ordering and delivery is quick paced with no fuss, and the dishes served have a kick to the palate of those familiar with South-east Asian food. Meanwhile, the big Hong Kong styled restaurants still offer the more expensive menus at dinnertime. The Reading Cinema at Market City offers Mandarin and Cantonese language movies as if you were residing in Singapore, Shanghai or Macau. Freshly baked buns and drinks mixed with milk and fruits seem to dominate the snacks on offer.

When night falls over the gates of Dixon Street Mall, one may hear the clatter of mahjong tiles on gaming tables, the humdrum of muffled karaoke sounds from indoor and closed rooms and perhaps other multifarious deals beyond our imagination. Are the people lurking around tourists, immigrants, visitors from Sydney outer suburbs or long time residents? Who knows, who cares? I just enjoy feeling the pulse of making a living, making a business and making a life in this corner of Sydney.