Hue, Vietnam - Motorbike Tour

A well renowned Zen master, Thich Nhat Hanh, hailed originally from this city in central Vietnam - Hue.

This hub which served as the political base of the Nguyen Dynasty from 1802 to 1945, also boasts its so-called royal cuisine, which tends to be spicy and emphasises on small servings, including the well known white rose dumplings.  Hue is also located near the infamous DMZ, created after the French colonists lost the battle of Dien Bien Phu in 1954.  The national dress of Vietnam, the ao dai, originated from Hue, based on royal clothing styles.  Together with the Champa ruins in My Son and the nearby multicultural town of Hoi An, Hue is also a declared UNESCO heritage site, focused on the imperial Citadels, royal tombs, elephant versus tiger fighting arena and a strong underlying Confucian and Buddhist culture.  It is currently the administrative capital of Tua Thien Province in Vietnam.

Above picture shows the dragon head of a boat moored on the Perfume River in the evening we arrived, and below is a detail reminiscent of China's Forbidden City in Beijing.

The Hue Citadel ( Dai Noi) has recently experienced a restoration effort, with a royal compound open to visitors (above) and an impressive facade outside, surrounded by a moat.  You can see clear damaged walls from the significant fighting in the sixties between the US forces and the Vietcong. In the past, the royal families actually lived inside this area, with specific buildings dedicated for major purposes - including the  Mieu temple and  the Hall of Supreme Harmony.  There are several gates.  Hue was the capital of a previous unified Vietnam, before the recent reunification of the country in 1975 with Ha Noi as its capital.

The Thien Mu Pagoda complex in Hue sits on a hill beside the Perfume River ( Song Huong) with a large compound, including the main shrine and prayer hall, a monastery and independently standing pavilions, including one that provides the names of scholars who achieved attainment of passing Vietnam's royal examinations (held in the same spirit as the Chinese ones further up north).  Such honoured names are inscribed on a tablet held by a stone turtle ( second picture below).

My group's motorbike tour also included visits to a previous American bunker area overlooking the Perfume River (picture below), which has now been re-vegetated with planted flora and used mainly now by courting couples.  Above, the joss sticks with colourful handles made in a village that specialises in this handicraft.

China House, Georgetown - Penang

The place itself was not easy to find, with a facade that is unassuming and not even lit up much on evenings. Yes, China House has two facades, on different streets (Victoria or Beach) as it occupies two large and long lots that stretch between two different roads in Georgetown's old quarter that has been recognised by UNESCO as world heritage.   Both entrances are dark and quiet, but maybe because it is a Monday night when Vivian took me there. The name may suggest a business of fabrics or China heritage souvenirs and artifacts, but it is really a cafe and club with many choices for seating and gatherings, both downstairs and upstairs.  China House not only offers a wine bar ( Japanese  and Scottish single malts are available) besides a barrista operated coffee joint cum bakery with a variety of pastries and cakes (like the pear and ginger upside down cake), but also sit down meals from Aussie-styled breakfast prices at Malaysian Ringgit 30 to lunch options that begin at Malaysian Ringgit 50.  There are fourteen distinctive sub-areas within the two floors of China House.

Vivian and I only had coffee, she chose a flat white whilst I went for a cappuccino. We already had street food of southern Chinese-inspired wanton dumpling egg noodles from a stall along Georgetown's Chulia Street, better known for backpackers, interesting trades, recently upgraded heritage hotels and age-old retail outlets. Chulia Street connects the nightclub hub and nasi kandar and mamak roti stalls of eastern Penang Road to the banking centre of Beach Street and Georgetown's Chinatown.  Nasi kandar, or literally curry rice carried on a pole over shoulders, is  a favourite choice of mine and many who grew up in Peninsular Malaysia - the dish comes from southern India, usually served on a banana leaf and offers rather appetising steamed rice with a variety of curry choices.  It can be consumed anytime, but especially in the evenings or for breakfast.   Mamak roti refers to the light breads offered with a small bowl of light curry sauce, usually vegetarian like dhall (lentil curry).

Back at China House, the coffee blend used had a distinctive aroma and taste, and I was tempted to compare this with the Campos blend available in Sydney and Melbourne.  We sat at a well patronised area near the entrance to Beach Street, with that evening mostly packed with under thirty-somethings and a crowd that reminds you of Starbuck outlets.  Returning recently from Hoi An in central Vietnam, I was struck by the lack of foreign tourists walking along the streets and lanes of the heritage area in Georgetown.
Here at China House that evening, this impression was reinforced.  I understand that going forward, more deep sea passenger cruise ships shall call upon Penang Port and this can only be good news for heritage inspired outlets like China House.

The dinner menu at China House was what captured my attention, with choices like lamb sausages on cous cous, lagsana of duck ragu and a ginger bud infused pesto vegetarian spaghetti.  Bookings are essential on weekend nights.  The interior decor is an eclectic mix of Straits Chinese, modern chic, Thai and mainland Chinese, with a heavy emphasis on wooden panels, embroidered fabric and wall-hung frames.  Groups can lease out indoor and outdoor kitchens for occasions, with a weekly held chefs dinner every Friday night.  What I love best for ambiance is the lit indoor courtyard replete with a burger bar, mango trees and Mississippi mud choc pie. The canteen and bar offers Burmese traditional laksa.  Upstairs on the Victoria Street side is a rental space for workshops, gatherings and parties.  There is also an art gallery corridor and a pop up shop for consideration.  Guests and visitors are always reminded of the long narrow nature of the Straits Chinese houses now providing the venue of  China House.  You can walk to the Khoo Kongsi, Little India and the Weld Quay family jetties from China House.  Look up to the distinctive window frames of the first level of China House when you are standing on the nearby roads.

China House is located at:
153 and 155 Beach Street, Georgetown and
183B Victoria Street, Georgetown
in one connected building.

Feast - Sylvia and Jana's, Pennant Hills, NSW

Glutinous rice flavoured with Cantonese sausage slices, garlic, dried shrimp, chili cuts, shallots and all cooked in a clay pot.

Yam forms the basis of this snack shown above - wu kok in Cantonese, popular in yum cha sessions and more.  Below, the ubiquitous roast pork found in every southern Chinese barbecue outlet in Asia and  most Western countries.  Such pork have crackle skins and usually a fatty layer to enhance the bite and taste sensations - often accompanied by steamed rice or stir fry noodles.

The condiments supplementing the Beijing duck experience are sweet hoi sin sauce (upper right hand corner in picture above) and julienned slices of fresh Lebanese cucumber and shallots.

Vietnam Impressions

The photographs captured in this blog entry have already been posted by me for my Facebook friends last week, but they do encapsulate what I like best about Vietnam from my recent sojourn there.  Above, sitting together with hawkers on the street pavement in Hoi An, central Vietnam, a tourist enjoys the simple life of tasty skewered meats, cooked over charcoal, with the dash of greens common in Viet food servings.

Above, walking around the Cantonese Assembly Hall in the old quarter of Hoi An, I came across a dog, a mannequin and sea coconuts.  Below, Austrian Dopplemyer made cable car systems in operation over a fascinating landscape on the way to a temple cave south-east of Ha Noi, in a region labelled popularly as the Perfumed Pagodas.

A contrast of lifestyles - boat women paddle life jacketed tourists across the placid waters of Ha Long Bay in north-eastern Vietnam (above) whilst (below) a betrothed couple take pre-wedding day photo shots in front of the Sofitel Metropole Hotel in the so-called French quarter of Ha Noi.

The two sides of Nha Trang, in south-eastern Vietnam, can be echoed by the commercialisation of its beach fronts (picture above, as underlined by the tourist runner and the local construction man) and the serenity of the giant sitting Buddha atop a hill  (the San Long Pagoda temple) in the photo below.

Above, the romance, charm and uniqueness of Hoi An's old quarter on a November evening is enhanced by lit lanterns, a not uncommon scene along its narrow lanes lined by antiquated house and shop fronts, in a historical hub influenced by Japanese, Vietnamese, French and Chinese traditions and heritage.  Below, a winding road near Da Nang near the infamous DMZ.

Bicycles are a popular way of moving about in Hoi An, which also boasts excellent tailoring, selling of wares and trinkets, unique street scenes and many cafe restaurants which attract backpackers and other visitors in an ambient environment.

Vietnam - Vignettes

Fresh coconut juice and filtered coffee at an outlet of Trang Nguyen in Ho Chi Minh City.

A relaxing day at an almost empty beach an hour outside Nha Trang, south-eastern Vietnam.

Halloween Night dinner, Sheraton Nha Trang beach front.

                         Poster seen from inside passing van on a rainy morning in Da Nang, central Vietnam.

Street scene in Hoi An, central Vietnam

                 Military bunker located at hill top overlooking the South China Sea bay around Da Nang.

Night cycling In the old quarter of Hoi An - Photo credit to N Mansfield

                                                                 Poster in shop, Ha Noi.

             Motifs at the Heaven's Kitchen Temple, part of the Perfumed Pagodas south-east of Ha Noi.