Devon on Danks - Waterloo NSW

Crab Pasta, with fettucini luscious tasting sauce, cherry tomatoes and tender shell meat of the Blue Swimmer Crab.

Location of the Devon on Danks is particularly local friendly, but only if you are one of the nearby residents in what has been recently proclaimed as Australia's most densely populated suburb - Waterloo! If you come from outside the area, vehicle parking opportunity can be distressing, especially when the nearby Hillsongs Church congregates on weekends.  

Having said all this, Waterloo is indeed relatively near the Sydney city centre (by Australian standards)  - and probably houses a demographic of the most twenty somethings working in finance or IT, and is just a scooter ride or bus ride away from the financial district.   Oh yes, the NSW State Government has decided to build a new rail station here as well instead of near the Sydney University Campus in Camperdown.

Talk of location, location, location....

And if you are chalking up the hours, looking at systems and software, playing with options, hedging and futures, you most probably won't cook.   The kitchens in most Waterloo apartments are not what the Poh Ling Yeows and Nigellas of celebrity shows and cookbooks would be happy with. Most likely you have left the family nest only recently - and the night hours are precious for socialising after extended hours at work.  You are relatively open to fusion food  and secretly long to escape the cuisine of the parents.

Welcome to Devon on Danks.

Pretty looking Cronuts but best to eat them fresh.

Everyone knows by now that this Devon is related to the original Devon near Central station.

The space here however is much larger and one feels like stepping into  a long house styled canteen area.   The walls and ceiling are strikingly bare.  It reminded me of being in a 1960s built warehouse sited on a rural corner of the Malaysian Peninsular - I expected to see godown workers, bags piled high.   I nevertheless love the high ceiling aspects, with people below huddled around smallish wooden tables or raised bar seats.  The kitchen is placed partly hidden away to the left side of the entrance.  I could not make out much of the metal looking facade and pendants placed imposingly over the smallish front entrance.

Instinctively I was looking for my Breakfast with the Sakumas - it is on the DOD menu as well, but I was distracted by another fascinating French toast variation, the Corned Beef Cubano, Cronuts and the pasta.  

I admit to having a fondness back at the Devon Cafe for the fresh chili Angel Hair pasta served with a Coriander zesty herb crumb, garlic oil and Blue Swimmer Crab, but there is  no encore here for the "Crab Gone Chili"  for this dish at the DOD.  Instead it is replaced by a Fettucini based Crab Pasta, which though heavier on the palate, is rewarding enough for me.

The Cubano at first had my impression of being the silverside corned beef with chips on rye bread, but DOD's version has fanciful trappings of Chilean pepper Pipparas,  thin sliced Italian Pancetta, Gruyere cheese and the Manchego.  Manchego is made from the milk of ewes and originated from La Mancha in Spain.

A suggested offering back at the Devon is the Little Lost Bread, more dessert than breakfast, with a serve of coconut flavoured ice cream, rum cooked pineapple, fresh coconut shaves, pineapple gel and roasted coconut chips over a Pina Colada soaked French toast.   Imagine walking over to a high level business meeting after having this in the early morning...

At DOD, the Devon kitchen has continued to whip up one more variation of the French Toast.

This interesting variation of the French toast is infused with Italy, France, Nippon and China.  Lost in Zen Garden sounds more like a flower arrangement, but that is the whole point.  The Matcha flavoured soil, Yuzu citrus fruit curd, vanilla and olive oil ice cream, Mandarin bites and the Meringue (light, airy and sweet!) detract from the basis that you are even consuming French toast.

Vegetarians (and even those who are not) may just want a healthy blast with ancient grains, fruit and fibre.  In this instance I recommend the Yogi Bowl, which has Goji berries and puffed Amaranth grains,  in addition to the usual parade of seeds and nuts, Chia, fresh fruit cuts, mixed Quinoa and yoghurt.

My attending wait staff was socialable and the food did come out efficiently.  There was a buzz at lunchtime, many groups of girlfriends, families, several couples, working professionals and tourists.   I eyed a neighbouring table's serve and it did not disappoint - it looked good.



My impressions of the Devon on Danks:
Ambiance:  3 out of 5
Customer Engagement:  3.75 out of 5
Culinary Delight: 3.75 out of 5
X Factor:  3.5 out of 5
Overall:  3.5 out of 5


Recommended menu choices:
Cronuts for a snack eaten fresh
Breakfast with the Sakumas, for a wholesome breakfast (also available at its sister outlet, the Devon Cafe in Surry Hills NSW) - 63 degree poached egg, smoked eel Croquette, Miso grilled King Salmon, radish petit salad and Kewpie Mayonnaise.
Crab Pasta for lunch, utilising shredded meat of the Blue Swimmer Crab, chili, cherry tomatoes, garlic and Fettucini.

Devon on Danks is located at 2 Danks Street,  Waterloo NSW.  It is sited opposite the Hillsongs Church across the small roundabout.

Opening hours are from 730am to 330pm every day.
Last kitchen order around 3pm. 
Contact +61 2 9698 7795

 

Pilgrim's Vegetarian Cafe, Cronulla NSW

Can strictly vegetarian food be yummy, exciting and healthy at the same time?   The broad answer is perhaps - and it does depend on the preparer and the ingredients offered.  

Hummus, beetroot, Taboulleh, Mayonaisse, mushroom, roast herb potato and Southern Highlands NSW free range eggs.   These are used by the Pilgrim's Vegetarian Cafe to add taste, offer diversity, uplift texture and provide passion to the vegetarian space.  Unlike East Asian veg cooking, which can be deep fried, or Indian, which utilises much yoghurt, modern Australian versions emphasise of freshness, rawness and use of tasty mixes.  Throw in fit looking and energetic customers,  walk the talk, talk the walk and that is the vibe one may get at Pilgrim's.  Walk up the stairs from street level and you come into a bright space with vistas of what can be.

People look relaxed at Pilgrim's here, with lots of group chatter or individuals doing personal down time with or without their smart devices.   The Cronulla cafe on the first floor offers panoramic views and spacious (though no outdoor) seating.  The business has been around for 36 years and seen all the trends in veg eating. 

My serve of Harvest Burger.

Can you readily at home already make the stuff offered at Pilgrim's? Maybe one can, perhaps it is not worth the hassle of having so many ingredients and yet just using a little of each.  In my view, it is the clever combination of ideas, choice of stuff, harmony in the bite and the diversity in the combination that matters at Pilgrim's.   Are the creations then enhanced by sweetness, sourness, neutral flavours or more?  Is there a balance of all essential elements of nutrition?  Does the customer want more on a return visit.....

Standards like buttermilk pancakes, Granola and baked beans are found throughout the menu, with fruits, grains and greens.    And the single origin barista made coffee.  An interesting feature of Pilgrim's us that their menu has inspiration from multi-cultural Australia  - you have the USA, Indian, Greek, Italian, Lebanese, Spanish, Mexican, Moroccan and more.


In my perception, the words tofu and burger can be contradictory, but at Pilgrim's, there is a Tofu Burger, garnished by a peanut sauce, fried onions, tomato slices and lettuce, served with a rice salad and with a marinade for the soybean cake. The Tofu Burger challenges the build up of taste from a bland base -  how do you add character, variety and a memorable bite? Does one risk over whelming the gentle nature of the soy bean cake?   Does one get an uplift and a crunch?

The aptly named Mountain Burger says it all, for those hungry or with big appetites  - a mixed grain pattie is heaped on a toasted whole meal roll, with various delights like pineapple, cucumbers, fried onions, tomato slices, beetroot, sprouts, egg, lettuce and carrot shavings, then jizzed with what Pilgrim's call a special sauce.   This is one for the road for surf boarders after a morning out with the elements....

I enjoyed my Harvest Burger, a relatively light offering with almost similar stuff, except that there is no pineapple and egg.  I did appreciate the crunchiness of this burger, balanced with some raw green taste of the raw stuff and completed by the wholesome bread roll.

Next opportunity, I am going to try the Millennium Burger and the Bliss Burger.  The former has a curry lentil pattie, sweet chili sacuce and Tahini dressing instead,  whilst the 
latter is a wholemeal roll with Taboulleh,  peanut sauce, cheese and avocado with the mixed grain pattie, fried onions, sprouts and special sauce.

Surprise, surprise, there is also Mexican fare at Pilgrim's Cronulla.   Perhaps I should not be amazed, as the beans conjure up in my vision and understanding.   Tacos, Enchiladas, Nachos, Burritos, Tortilla bread, Jalapeno Salsa, they have it all.    Definitely there is no meat, but then you have alternatives in spicy red beans, spinach, re fried and spiced potato, brown rice and Ricotta cheese. 

My favourite would be the Tortilla wrap, containing my preferred stuff of Guacamole, spicy red beans, re fried and spiced potato and then garnished with Salsa and sour cream.  It echoes in me the joys of beach food, the freedom of teenage years, the collegiality of university and the informality of a family outing.  Owners Kelly and Anthony MacDonald hailed from Batemans Bay on the NSW South Coast, a place familiar with many Sydney siders on summer holiday.   I understand that many of the ingredients used at pilgrim's comes from this corner of Australia as well.

Sourdough is sourced from Berry Bakery.    Teas, wines and beers complement the coffee, Sangria and frozen Daiquiri available.    Taiwanese, Indo-Chinese and South Asian traditions may question the serving of alcohol with vegetarian.

Of course, for the purist, there is nothing like fresh green salad - Pilgrim's makes them with slices of Roma tomatoes, Fetta cheese, Lebanese cucumber, Kalamata olives, green capsicum, Spanish onions, together with locally grown variety of greens - and all splattered with roasted pine nuts and dressing.

The wait staff have a smile and the food did come readily.   The amount of menu choices above the bar and counter can be crowded on first reading but do contain a pertinent and interesting array of details  - even pies!   Guests can check out the goings-on around the junction immediately and beyond on to the park beside the beach.

Crystals drink - mango, strawberry and orange smoothie.

My impressions of Pilgrim's  Cronulla:
Ambiance: 3.5 out of 5
Customer Engagement: 3 out of 5
Culinary Delight: 3.5 out of 5
X Factor:  3 out of 5
Overall:  3.25 out of 5


Recommended menu choices:
Corn Fritters accompanied by chili jam, rocket, avocado and Fetta smash and roast tomatoes.
Pesto Sourdough, served with fresh egg mayo, fresh greens with avocado and roast mushroom, amongst other ingredients.
Breakfast Burger, a toasted wholemeal roll laden with with roast tomato, Mayonnaise, roast mushroom, avocado, melted cheese and fried egg.
Acai Bowl, filled up with roasted coconut, banana, strawberries, Granola and yoghurt. 
North Shore Plate, organic brown rice topped by a black bean brew and garnished by Guacamole, tomato salsa, sour cream and lettuce, with a side of toasted corn bread.
Mountain Burger.



Pilgrim's Cronulla is located at 97 Garelle Street, Cronulla NSW, opposite the park at South Beach.   BYO is for wine only at the Cronulla outlet of Pilgrims.
Opening hours are from 8am to 3pm every day. 
Contact + 61 2 9523 7580



Pilgrim's is also found at Huskisson and Milton on the NSW South Coast, around two hours drive from Wollongong NSW.






 

Albero Di Lemone Tree Trattoria & Delicatessen - Sutherland NSW

Fresh pasta, marinated vegetables, smoked and cured meats, Formaggi, Paninis with changing fillings, olives, breads, green groceries and items for the home larder.The place looks more like a true deli than a casual cafe, more a treasure trove of select produce not found in many places than just a brunch and snack stop.  Just spend some time looking through its jars, sauce or preserve bottles and cheese packages and you are on a culinary journey in Europe. 

Sited below some apartments, Albero has lifted the image of outlets found in the pervasive unit blocks now found aplenty not just in inner city suburbs but also through out the outer suburbs of capital cities in Australia.  When we seek refuge from the Big Smoke, we also appreciate the opportunity to access quality food, drink and produce near our homes.  At Albero, you are not just having coffee and bread here, there is more than this.

Breakfast has a selection of accompanying herbs, goat's cheese and wild mushroom Ragu.
I may be content with the usual offerings in the early morning but do imagine and try the possibilities in combinations, like in omelette creations, pasta mixes and salad delights.

Seasonal changes, like in desserts, are make what a cafe exciting, but also keep the regular customer in touch with the finesse in what Nature and agriculture offers. There are also black board specials for the day.

The Antipasto utilises much of the Schiacciatta, as together with olives and pickles.   Schiacciatta is linked with Florentine and Sicilian versions, but basically refers to Focacia, made with flour, water, rising agent and a pinch of salt, cooked in a wood burning oven and is desired crispy but not greasy.   The good ones are not hard but offer the necessary crunch and has a flavour of olive oil in Florence.

Ham and Salami, Risotto and Pizza!     Whatever you choose, do select something with Proscuitto, one of the best around  found in the Antipodes.  For an accompanying refresher, there is the uplifting home made lemonade.

Vehicle parking is best in allocated train station spaces but these can get filled up as well, so do try the side streets.  Another worthwhile option is to take Sydney Rail.   There is both outdoor in a garden like atmosphere and inside seating.  And you can do your larder shopping as well have your coffee, authentic and strong.The kids can have some Nougat and Biscotti  to take home too.

My impressions of the Albero Di Lemone Tree Trattoria & Delicatessen:
Ambiance: 3.25 out of 5
Customer Engagement: 3.5 out of 5
Culinary Delight: 3.75 out of 5
X Factor:  3.5 out of 5
Overall:   3.5 out of 5


Recommended menu choices:
Baby heirloom carrots and beetroots with walnuts and goat's cheese.
Frittata omelette.
Calabrese Salami pizza.
Risotto with Fontina cow cheese from the Aosta Valley near the Alps, Oregano, Zucca pumpkin and Proscuitto.
Prawn, rocket and tomato Spaghetti.



The Albero Di Lemone Tree Trattoria & Delicatessen is located at Shop 2, 720 Old Princes Highway, Sutherland NSW.

Opening hours are from 7am to 4pm from Tuesdays to Thursdays; from 7am to 9pm on Fridays and Saturdays and from 8am to 3pm on Sundays. Closed on public holidays.
Contact + 61 2 9542 2552
BYO




 

PappaRich Malaysian Delights - Macquarie Centre North Ryde NSW

Authenticity, integrity and flavour.   That is what most of us saviour, appreciate and enjoy in any of the world's cuisines.    For fusion cooking like in Malaysia, which stands at the cross roads of  varying cultures, religions and cuisines, to represent them adequately in a restaurant can be mind boggling, creative challenging and requiring constant monitoring.   The choice of sauces, the techniques practised to bring them together and to ensure the right presentation at the table can be a constant cycle of preserverance, care and instinctive experience.

Some dishes from the Malaysian cook book provide significant tests:

1.  Where the soups must uplift and the ingredients are supplementary.
Curry Laksa, with its strong sensations is at the opposite end of Ipoh hor fun soup.
Clear soups require subtleness, strong soups need good colour and harmony.

2.  Where the grill has to be just right in providing texture.   Charcoal fired meats are more yummy than those cooked in a oven but the choice is up to each person's preference.   Skewered meats are most yummy when eaten fresh from the grill and not pre-cooked before.  Not too much smokiness.  More important is the marinade  - PappaRich Satay has a lemon grass after taste like what you get in the home country.

3.   Where the curry has to be simply appetising.   There are several spices that make up the base for simmering in a curry pot.  The amount and nature of your spice used create different curries.   Red curry is the base of the standard Malaysian chicken curry.  The complexity of making Rendang is because of the many spices and ingredients.   More dilute curry for Roti dipping can be more challenging to make.

4.   Where the stir fry has wok heat and yet retains the right level of flavour.  This is most critical for your plate of the Char Koay Teow, where you can  sense the hand and style of different individuals in the finished product.

5.    Where sauces transform the final bite.   South-east Asians love their condiments, whether pestle pounded, ground with an electric whizzer or simply gently mixed by hand before serving.  Even steamed bamboo baskets of Dim Sim stuff and buns are accompanied by simple chilli sauces.

My recent visit to Pappa Rich near Macquarie University made me reflect on the following:

Food comes out fast, orders are received like clock work.  So how is the kitchen team faring, they must be under tremendous pressure to deliver.   This is not fast food but rather echoes home cooked and street food which require various steps in preparation.

Rush hour at Macquarie Centre means a pouring of customers, all hungry, at the same time.  They may be next going home, to the cinemas, having a break from chores or shopping and may already be stressed out themselves after a long day.

What is the difference between the other greater Sydney area offerings and those from the PappaRich chain?  There is Sedap, there is Hawker, there is Albee's.   This PR is the giant of it all, with set procedures, required steps and prescribed interior decoration.  It is a business that is replicated across many of its stores.  There are local ingredients in the cooking, but sauces have to be standardised and consistent.

With such an extensive menu, how does PappaRich manage to deliver it all?   Malaysian cooking rely on many common ingredients, so there can be scale of economy in such aspects.  The risk is in the assembly of the final dish.   Management control helps, but where is the room for creativity by different individuals?   Another significant outcome desired is the consistency in taste.   It is easy to produce the Rotis, but what about assuring each customer about each plate of Mee Goreng or Char Koay Teow?


My impressions of Papa Rich Macquarie Park:
Ambiance:  2.5 out of 5
Customer Engagement: 3 out of 5
Culinary Delight: 3.5 out of 5
X Factor:  3  out of 5
Overall:  3 out of 5


Recommended menu choices:
Steamed Chicken, whether it comes with rice, congee or egg noodles
Beef or Chicken Satay skewers with peanut sauce, cucumber slices and onion cuts
Beef Rendang - national dish of Malaysia
Nasi Lemak with curry mutton, fried chicken or curry chicken
Mee Goreng - that delectable plate of stir fried Hokkien noodles with a kick! 
Teh Tarik - a pulled tea concoction that has cinnamon and spice, served cold or warm.
Combination of fried rice with fried chicken wings and Satay skewers







Papa Rich Macquarie Park is located at Level 3 of the Macquarie shopping centre in North Ryde NSW, near Events Cinema Complex. Macquarie Centre is sited beside Herring and Waterloo Roads.
Opening hours are from 1030am to 930pm every day. 
Contact + 61 2 9870 8754

Paparich Australia operates in Melbourne, Sydney, Perth, Canberra, Brisbane and Adelaide.
Paparich has 20 stores in Australia and 70 in its home base of Malaysia.   
The business is also active in New Zealand, Taiwan, China, Brunei, the USA, Hong Kong, Singapore, South Korea and Indonesia at time of writing this blog post.

Kuroneko Ramen Noodle Bar - Sutherland NSW

It does not have a wide shop front but diners can go in to sit its long inside interior.   Kuroneko feels like a local gathering place, or one where you can have your noodles after alighting from the train.   Sutherland is no Bondi or Chatswood, so east Asian food can be hard to find in this southerly post of the greater Sydney area.   Kuroneko has a simplicity of its own, has an easy menu and it is not difficult to settle in and have a relaxing time.

Those who frequent the major intersection of the Princes Highway and Acacia Road will find that Kuroneko is just round the corner after heading west at that junction.  As far as I can gather, the name of this restaurant means "bamboo grove" but I could be wrong.

Yes, sake is readily available to go with my fav starters, the deep fried lotus root rings (photo below). 
They are crunchy and although having a shake of salt, not over the top and just as good as an alternative to wedges and chips.    What's the green powdery stuff?    There is a generous serving of the lotus root here, probably able to be shared by three persons.

Of course, we are all here for the ramen.    The proof of this dish is in the soup - although not as concentrated as in Ryo's in the lower north shore or as in Gumshara in Sydney's Chinatown, the stock here is unique to its own.   The disappointment I had  was that the Tonkhatsu was not real piece of pork but minced pork, not to my preference.  Still, I was reminded of why not?   The cutlery provided could not pick up the minced pork well, especially those strewn all over and hiding at the bottom of the bowl.  The compulsory marinated soft egg and seaweed saved the day.  Those who are more open to a less thick stock of Miso infused soup will like the version of ramen at Kuroneko.

Mind you, the stock soup is simmered for around 14 hours before it is served.   I did not opt for the spicy version with more chilli oil.   I was focused on trying the soup without the unnecessary influence of chilli.

The Kuroneko Ramen Noodle Bar is located at Shop 4, 720 Old Princes Highway, Sutherland NSW.
Opening hours are from from 11am to 9pm every day.
Contact +61 2  9521 5191



My impressions of the Kuroneko Ramen Noodle Bar:
Ambiance: 3 out of 5
Customer Engagement: 3.5 out of 5
Culinary Delight: 3 out of 5
X Factor:  2.5  out of 5
Overall:  3 out of 5


Recommended menu choices:
Pork Buns.
Lotus root rings.
Donburi selections of steamed rice with different meats.
Prawn and chicken Ramen - usually it's fish that is utilised as seafood.  A rather different taste in the soup.
Tuna Sashimi salad.