Sydney Fish Markets Revisited

There are fish markets of all sizes in Australia - in shopping centres, in quaint family run  shops by the beach, in farmers markets, near fishing village marinas and more.

The biggest Daddy of them all is the one at Blackwattle Bay, Pyrmont, south west of Sydney's city centre.  At last count, around two million people visit the markets each year.

Accessible by driving, light rail, walking or from the waterside, the Sydney Fish markets are not particularly large in area or variety of shops when compared with some of those overseas like Tsukiji in Tokyo and the La Nueva Viga markets in Mexico City.  What the SFM offers best perhaps is a laid back atmosphere, an authentic wet market feel, lots of tasty bites and easily watching the world go by.
Crabs, clams, oysters, octopus, shrimps, squids and lobsters are popular with visitors apart from grilled fish of different varieties.

Seagulls and black Ibis wander around without a care, whilst pelicans love to show off with their exercises in take off and gliding down to land off wooden piers.  Families gather especially on the weekend,  tourists take delight on most days, young students saviour their first experience with sea urchin or Barramundi and in one spot, every one can appreciate the variety of fresh seafood and produce.  Wild harvest, frozen packs and aquaculture produce are available apart from the usual fresh seafood items displayed on open shelves or in boxes.

You can also join walking tours conducted by the SFM to watch oyster shucking, better understand the Dutch reverse auction system for seafood and view sashimi making, for up to two hours.

Well, it is not just about seafood and beverages in this venue - you can carry off your selections of seasonal fruits and veg, plus meats.  A captivating feature of the SFM is enjoying fresh and raw oysters shucked off their shells, or carting off per dozen cardboard trays for home.  There are wholesalers for businesses and retail for every one.   There is a souvenir shop at the front of the main entrance, making the SFM an obvious touristy place.  Since 1989, there has been a Seafood School operating at the SFM. A Chinese restaurant on the upper floors offers lunch and dinner, with it being used as a wedding reception venue as well.

The eating tables can look messy on the outer promenade by the water, as fauna try to clear up let over bits and there is no one employed or seen cleaning used tables.

The source of the seafood is labelled by law, and many a treat comes from wild catches and farmed produce from the eastern seaboard of the Australian continent, or Tasmania.   Avoid going to visit the SFM during the Easter or Christmas periods, unless you do not mind being stuck sitting in a traffic jam.  The convulating nature of road access to the SFM also does not help, oh please do something the powers that be!

For wholesalers, auctions are a sight and experience to behold. It is said around 20 thousand tonnes and a hundred varieties of seafood exchange hands at each such auction at the SFM.   In terms of tonnes, the SFM is the third largest in the world but is second ranked in terms of seafood variety (after Japan).

It is often rewarding to explore parts of the SFM away from the sometimes maddening crowd.  As long as it is not slippery or cordoned off, you may wander and enjoy perspectives away form the sales, snacking and vehicle parking areas.  Oh yes, parking fees are rather on the high side.  I recommend eating fresh on the spot, rather than bagging purchases home, but if you do the latter, do organise your eskys and car boot.

The Sydney Fish Markets are open  from 5am each day until mid-afternoon.  As any seasoned seafood devotee knows, the best catch is early in the day.  Unlike the fresh veg and fruits markets like Flemington and Paddys in other parts of greater Sydney, there are no real value bargains of you go later in the day as the freshness of seafood can change.

The SFM is not a monopoly for seafood sales in greater Sydney.  In New South Wales, seafood catchers can supply direct to any one in possession of a valid Fish Receiver's Permit.

Auctions of seafood at the SFM since 1989 follow what was used for tulip sales in Holland a few centuries ago - the Dutch reverse auction system, whereby auction prices start around three dollars above assumed market prices and then go down a dollar every computerised revolution until a buyer stops the button.  Running concurrently with the main Dutch auction practice, since 2001, is an online trading system introduced by the SFM.

For travellers around the world, other interesting fish market sites include Hong Kong's Aberdeen Seafood Markets; the Mercamadrid in Spain; the Maine Avenue Fish Markets in Washington D.C; the Busan Cooperative Fish Markets in South Korea; New York's Fulton Fish Markets and the Faskekorka in Gothenburg, Sweden.

Rookie Eatery - Wollongong NSW

The creative and ops hub.

Elegantly appointed, with a charisma of white painted picket fenced walls - that is my first impression of the Rookie Eatery on entering through its front door.  I felt like coming to a bud's home, after climbing up a small wooden stairs like in a Queenslander - and yet the inside reminds me of being back in New Zealand, sans the cold weather but with the South Coast NSW warmth.

Every dining table has fitting white cloths over it.  The dining area can be seen separated in two sections, with the kitchen prep section transparent and the windows retro and adding to the over all good feel.  The menu does change in the past year and the place was abuzz with diners even on a week night.  Dishes offered ooze with detail, care and thought.  It is BYO for wine at lunch time and on Wednesday and Thursday evenings.  There is a share plate of Sirloin beef, with de Paris butter, for two guests plus a degustation menu available.   The drinks menu in house is extensive and balanced.

Our main customer engagement staff hailed from Dunedin, she is petite, has a sense of humour and was working all over the restaurant that evening. We would have loved to say hello to the chef as well.   Our plates and cutlery were changed before each offering. We could not run dry of drinks, even the San Pellegrino water.  Tables can be considered placed tightly against one another but every one that evening did  not seem to mind.

Corn fed chicken is served with a green curry sauce, garnished by young coconut and coconut flavoured black rice - and topped by a green curry mousse for measure.

The duck breast as elaborated on the menu is accompanied by Peking sauce, celery, pickled onion, pearl barley and shallot.  This is very East Asian, but only one example of several dishes that echo various styles, sauces and ingredients.  So modern Australian in foodie approach. So fusion, yet not.
I felt like entering an Aladdin's cave of culinary inspiration.

I noted the careful selection of unusual ingredients like Samphire, red Sorrel, Yuzu fruits and Nasturtiums.  Things I don't even find in celebrity chef pop-ups, social media much acclaimed restuarants or in places that charge an arm and a foot for the experience...

As the night progressed, I realised we went through Mediterranean secrets, Japanese gems, Indian ocean traditions, Australian flair, tropical adventures and good ole Mum's recipes from way back.

My top choice for mains that evening - uplifting grilled snapper and exquisite tasty cuttle fish surrounded by Bonito or Skipjack tuna mayo, zucchini, charred cos and Nori powder of edible seaweed.  Light, fresh and delightful on the palate.

From our table I can see on the shelves, behind the barista coffee machine,  liquors like American Honey, Midori and Galliano (both Black and White); beers like James Boag, Sierra Nevada and Kirin plus the Somersby Cider; spirits like Jameson, Captain Morgan, Bombay Sapphire and Dickel whiskey; champagnes like Tempus du Brut and the Perrier Jouet; plus reds and whites mainly from producers in the South Australia, Mudgee and the Margaret River.   The end of meal cuppa was strong and flavourful.

Henkell Trocken Piccolo

(200ml)

$12

Louis Bouillot Blanc Deblanc

$59

Tempus two Brut

$8

$41

Perrier Jouet NV

$105

WHITE

Two Italian Boys Moscato

$44

The Hill Pink

Moscato

$

40

Kaesler Rizza Riesling

(Barossa valley,

SA) 2013

$43

Inigo Seven Hills Riesling

(Clare valley, SA) 2014

$49

Greenstone Point Sauvignon Blanc

(Marlborough, NZ) 2014

$8

$

38

Breathing Space Sauvigno

n Blanc

(Margaret River, WA) 2014

$42

Alta Sauvigno

n Blanc

(Adelaide Hills, SA) 2014

$47

Shaw & Smit

h Sauvignon Bla

nc

(Adelaide Hills, SA) 2014

$56

Burns & Fuller

Chardonnay

(Adelaide Hills, SA) 2013

$8

$40

Bunnam

a

goo Chardonnay

(Mudgee, NSW) 2014

$49

Lansdowne

Pin

ot Grigio

(Adelaide Hills, SA) 2014

$50

RED

Prodigal Son Cabernet Merlot

(Margaret River,

WA) 2012

$8

$39

Angoves Organic Merlot

(winemaker’s blend, SE Aus) 2013

$48

Clare Wine Co. Cabernet

Sauvignon

(Clare Valley, SA) 2012

$47

Hugh Hamilton Cabernet S

auvignon

(Clare Valley, SA) 2012

$61

Greenstone Point

Pinot Noir

(Malborough, NZ) 2013

$42

Warramate Pinot Noir

(Yarra Valley, VIC) 201

2

$53

Ulithorne GSM ‘Dona’

(McLaren Vale, SA) 2013

$49

Johnny Q Shiraz

(Barossa Valley, SA) 2012

$8

$39

Kaesler Stonehorse

Shiraz

(Barossa Valley, SA) 2012

$60

Yangar

ra Shiraz

(McLaren Vale, SA) 2012

$59

Mitolo

Ange

la Shiraz

(McLaren Vale, SA) 2013

$72

Kalleske Shiraz

(Barossa, SA) 2013

Oxtail beautifully meshed with coconut milk, chilli jam, Mung bean noodles and Nam Phrik Thai chilli hot condiment -  further garnished with peanuts and Kaffir lime aromatics, finally sitting on betel leaves.  West meets East, a back packer's culinary dream gone so refined.  This is a most innovative entree, a must have and will set the tone for guests.  The top entree preferred by my table companions and myself.

For a future entree, I have in mind to try the North Atlantic scallops, fennel, Nasturtiums, bacon and almond Tarator.  The last named ingredient is a dip based on cooking styles in Eastern Europe, mainly Bulgaria, Serbia, Cyprus and Turkey.  It consists of Tahini or yoghurt, ground walnuts, garlic, lemon juice, vinegar, cucumber and herbs.

Nasturtiums refer to a plant for which seed pods, leaves and flowers are all edible.   Flowers to use in cooking must be harvested just as they are open, how both delicate and demanding this can be.  They taste like a cross between slight sweetness and mustard.

The other entree that caught my attention is the serving of Sand Whiting with spanner crabs, soy Mirin ginger, oyster emulsion and garlic shoots.  This Whiting is a coastal marine fish unique to the eastern side of the Australian continent, mostly from Cape York to Tasmania, but also found stretching out to New Caledonia in the South Pacific, Papua New Guinea and as nearby as Lord Howe Island.

Potato dumpling starter uplifted by Parmesan cream, crispy Jamon, sage and duck egg flavours.

I found comfort in the potato dumpling - this was a most satisfying brew of both subtle and strong flavours, all in harmony to remind me of a country side styled culinary classic, and yet with a touch of class in boldly having ingredients not found elsewhere.  The duck egg sensations jumped out to my palate, the dry cured Spanish ham of Jamon was appreciated and the Italian cream cheese sort of held every thing together.

I did ponder a bit indecisively over whether to have the Red Miso infused lamb neck, with carrot puree, Mirin grilled eggplant and lime Kosho.  Mirin is a delicate rice wine, with a higher sugar content but less alcohol than most.  Its use to highlight the flavours of Aubergines is interesting.   Garlic, chilli, salt and citrus zest are carefully blended to make the Kosho.  Well, a definite next time for the lamb, as I was already having more than my fill of the menu, there is much to choose from.

The Wagyu beef Tri-Tip, served with Samphire, Swedes turnip, Shitake mushrooms, Pepita or pumpkin seeds and spy butter jus.

My dining companions found the beef absolutely tops, with its rare countenance, its presentation with a gratifying mesh and the wonderful inclusion of marinated mushroom slices.   Aussie roast and grills tend towards rare instead of well done - and in this instance it worked perfectly adding a mellow texture, to complement the greens and relaxing gravy.  The top mains as voted by my table companions!

The night carried on with banter, fascinating conversation and a rather liberating feeling.....

I was so wrapped up by the experience at Rookie's that evening - great company and conversation as well - that I literally forgot to take photographs of our dessert choices.

 The Peanut Parfait appeared to be harder than anticipated at first crack, but allowing for a few minutes, this good looking fella could have melted a woman's heart and palate, providing crunchiness, flavour and wholesomeness - it reminds me of the first day of school holidays as well, with that feeling of sheer abandonment and relief.  The chocolate sauce was not over sweet and the peanut brittle had that optimal roast quality. Yum!

In contrast, the Yuzu Curd proved to be a bit confronting to me, primarily because of its tart, sourish taste, maybe accentuated by red sorrel, although this was offset by the carefully chosen garnish of thyme, hazelnut crumb and Mascarpone.   The Yuzu fruit resembles a small grapefruit and is said to be a cousin of the sour mandarin, originates from Central China and Tibet and is also popular in Korean cuisine.

Red sorrel is a perennial herb often used in soups and teas in some cultures - the clever inclusion of this in dessert opens my eyes  - it does have health benefits of improving eyesight, strengthening the body's immunity system, providing potassium and improving digestion processes.  The downside of red sorrel is its oxalic acid, which in small amounts is fine but not in larger quantities.

My vote goes to the ice cream cookie sandwich for desserts sampled that evening - smeared with caramel sauce and banana cream, it was perfect simplicity in contrast but holds a sentimental value from childhood.


I would love to return.







The Wollongong Rookie Eatery is located at 125 Keira Street in a old fashioned wooden house beaming with character in Wollongong city centre.
Contact telephone number +61 2 4228 8371
Opening hours are from Wednesdays to Saturdays for both lunch and dinner. Lunch is from noon  to 3pm and dinner is from 6pm to 10pm.

South-east Asia - At a Critical Junction

South east Asia in history has been an area rife in contention amongst the political powers of the day. For example, in the past they involved Hindu kingdoms, Arab missionary traders, colonial Euro powers, runaway local chieftains, Japanese imperialist armies and Americans fighting Communism.

Its strategic location and huge amounts of natural resources attract adventurers, migrants and entrepreneurs. Spices and herbs growing naturally here have changed eating habits and culinary practices around the world. There is a flurry of dialects, religious beliefs and languages spoken by its residents from various ethnic hues - and they live on a varied topographical landscape ranging from islands to riverine deltas and inland volcanoes.  Abundant forests, various resources from gems to petroleum and varying fishery stocks have supported its populations from time immemorial.   The peninsular extending below Thailand was strongly referred to as the "Golden Chersonese' in ancient texts.  Rice fields were intensively cultivated in huge delta basins.  Trading bloomed on sea routes and mastery of waterways became politically significant.

As a natural catchment for the meeting of different races, cultures and minds, it continually exercises fusion, provides a coalface for tolerance or intolerance and is a popular transit for mobile tourists. Minorities with religions different from the ruling governments find themselves in geographical pockets.
The body called ASEAN has Muslim, Buddhist and Christian government powers.  Different ethnic groups are not encouraged to find and adopt common values in some nations - instead differences are emphasised, just like what the British colonials were accused of, to "divide and conquer".  In contrast, in yet other nations, names of most residents have been naturalised, like in Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia, the Philippines and Myanmar.

 Some nations are just a collection of different tribes and cultures brought artificially together by history and convenience.  For example, the populations of both southern Thailand and southern Phillippines are ethnically different from those who control their nation.

Perhaps constants are the Equatorial climate, its diversity in flora and fauna and the burgeoning income divide. Education is sought after by the mostly young populace. Except for Thailand, all nations in this region have been colonised. One view is that the popular form of Western democracy has never been fully implemented here - but again to these countries, this is a foreign idea.  The experience of centuries of Western imperialism and colonialism left many bitter hearts, especially when such rule emphasised exploitation of peoples and resources - so when the Japanese imperial army invaded south Asia, many locals interpreted this as liberation from the Western yoke.

Most populations here can claim ancestry from other various parts of the world. Many Yunnan tribes were driven further south into south-east Asia due to conflicts and economic survival.  Highland peoples are distinct from lowland groups, immigrants can be differentiated from those who settled before.  There is evidence of Hindu and Chinese settlements in peninsular Malaysia from way long ago.  Arab traders inter-married the locals and started new family lines whilst waiting for the monsoon winds to take their boats back to the Arabian Gulf.

The inevitable melting pot occurred here long before than in the USA, in Israel and in other Western nations like Australia, the UK and Canada.  Economic and social-push migrations pushed people from bigger cultures like those in China and India.  People have always sought a better life elsewhere, especially to escape oppressive and feudalistic regimes of dynasties, caste systems and warlords.  When the economic benefits of tin mining, rubber plantations and spice trading grew, this was inevitable to lead to immigration.   The colonials were not all bad either, for they provided a higher level of governance, social stability and more freedom to take part in commerce than some local chieftains and rulers.   The British focused their attention to this part of the world after the loss of the American colonies and when south-east Asia became a proxy ground for rivalries amongst the emerging European powers.

Inter-marriage became an important outcome, as seen in Straits Indians, Straits Chinese, Eurasians with various strains from Portugal, Holland, France and Britain and in a growing Sino-Thai or community.   Cultural fusion bloomed in various ways - the way of dress, the way of thinking, the way of cooking.  Asian looking faces can have European surnames. Children of such marital unions were often sent back to the mother country for a more proper education - the life journey of Colonel William Light is an illustrative example, when he went to England as a child after being sent by his parents, Captain Francis Light and his Portuguese-Thai wife with a surname of Rozelles.

This leads to the question of how the original inhabitants of this region are truly faring - are they being sufficiently recognised, has their identity been buried and grouped under later arrivals and their authentic cultures forgotten? Many true natives are left in remote settlements and not fully embraced by the numbered majority in many nations.  The natives usually have not been fully empowered with modern society economic enablers and therefore cannot possibly rise above their stereotyped lives.  The natives of present day Vietnam were pushed inland into the mountain areas.  Natives of Irian Jaya are ethnically separate from those who hail from Java in Indonesia. Mynamar has significant numbers of so-called tribal minorities.

Extensive deforestation and agricultural defilement can harm the Earth in many ways, on flora, fauna and humans. For example, loss of disease curing plants occur beside extinction of those flora that better promote human and animal health. The high risks of air pollution that result from political and business mismanagement can adversely affect the lives of ordinary people and disrupt the economic pace of rich cities.   What is happening in this part of the Earth's Equatorial belt has happened in Brazil and central Africa.   In a way, such commercial exploitation has been the same for the past few hundred years - only the key players are different.

Being at the cross roads of geography, social movements, religious trends and financial interests is a double edged sword. Just like the European sub-continent, South east Asia faces both unique and high profiles in risk, personal freedoms and opportunity.  South-east Asia is now a hotch-potch of royalty, apparent democratic rule, military control, communist led and dictatorial hubs.  The countries here also thirst for foreign investment - but at what price?  Revenues can rise or fall due to decisions made far away.  The reliance on outside demand for commodities, manufactures and tourism money can be an Achilles heel.  Some of the nations wait for their sons and daughters who have migrated, to return to help.   The currency exchange rate for most Southeast Asian nation is dismal.  Yet, people power can be latent and powerful at the same time - it can flare up as in the Philippines, Myanmar and Thailand.

Apart from Singapore, are most of the countries here wallowing in lower cost economic activity whilst still being trapped in revenue earners like tourism, resources exploitation  and manufacturing, without the foresight of transforming into a high tech future? Can the demands and mindsets of the younger generation sufficiently change for the better the socio-political landscape of their countries?  The young from families who can afford have been sent in droves to Western countries for higher education.  Many do not return, having preferred the lifestyles and higher economic profile of their university host countries.   The future of south-east Asia may critically lie with those students who return,  make a commitment to their original culture and have the brains and means to do so.

The other significant question is whether South-east economies can complement the growth of their bigger neighbours China and India, no matter what political systems they find themselves in.

‪

Penang Buddhist Association Revisited

Outside the main building is this well known pagoda with a moated pond that contains fish.

The Bodhi tree flourishes on the temple grounds in 2016.

My childhood memories of lotus bloom covered floors - tiles cool on the feet - remain intact.

The ceilings of the prayer hall are high, creating a much appreciated natural cooling effect.

Lights adorn the prayer area.

Cushions are stacked ready for use by devotees.

Candles are available for those wishing to add brightness to the occasion.

A peep to the outer grounds through a side window.

Mother of pearl inlaid on public use furniture echo the Chinese heritage and origins of the building.

The stair case that leads to to the upper floor but is now not allowed access.

Detail of planted pot outside.

Saigon Senses - Wollongong Central NSW

It was the interior deco that caught my eye as well.  There were far and few in between Asian food outlets in the Wollongong area when I first moved there many years ago, perhaps a few Indian and Indo-Chinese ones selling pan -Asian menus.   Now that the demographic diversity of the greater Sydney Basin is more reflected in gastronomic choices in this seaside town, I can now cite three recently opened places selling the pork roll ala Vietnam - the Quay Canteen at Crown Street Mall, the Bakery Boys at lower Crown Street and now Saigon Senses.

And yes, the belly pork roll which I had as takeaway at Saigon Senses is the clear winner - wholesomely generous, bursting with flavour and brimming with the garnish of pickled slices of crunchy veg.  Roast belly pork per Vietnamese recipe is closer to the Cantonese version than to those in Spain, Germany or Italy.  maybe it is the added spices for taste, perhaps it is the French effect with a baguette - make your choice as to multigrain, wholemeal or more.   The meat is tender here, well cooked for the palate, better than pulled pork and the crispy crackle is the bonus of the experience.

There is only a simple menu here, but easily divided in to wraps, soups, rice dishes, vermicelli and rolls.   Normally I gyrate towards the combination of broken rice, served with side garnish and a well charcoal grilled meat like chicken or pork chop, but here they have beef as an option as well.  This one plate combination is a good idea for a lunch time selection and can be a take away.  I am not partial to those mixtures of meat and dry vermicelli but do like the wraps, especially those packed tight with fresh veg and ingredients like prawns and bite-sized meat cubes.

 I had one evening walked into Saigon Senses, knowing it had closed up for the day,and said hi to Mr. Bao Dang, who is one of the co-owenrs of Saigon Senses with Ms. Thuy Huynh. This affable young man has a natural smile - and when I next dropped by on a nearly lunch hour, Bao seemed to do everything in preparing the food for me.  Easygoing, Bao was efficient in getting the orders from other customers.  I like the way Bao displays the bread rolls as if it is in a French cafe.   Both Bao and Thuy left behind their training and career in IT and education to go into the food business - they previously operated at the food court in Wollongong Central.

I have yet to try the Vietnamese meatballs, an interesting choice that plays on the Wollongong market's penchant for meatballs from such diverse places as Italian  restaurants and Subway rolls.
One thing that stood out is the lemongrass flavoured tofu - soy being essentially neutral in taste, this brings a rather Thai twist - lemongrass is also available for beef.    The roll I may go for on a next visit is one containing mayonnaise and egg.

The iconic item of pho served here relies on its gentle soup stock, not over powering with five spice powder but simmering along easy on the palate like a slow boat along a quiet stretch of Halong Bay.    Pho as you know originated from the Hanoi area  - there is an image of an elephant and farmland vista from Sapa on the wall of  Saigon Senses.   I found the breast meat cuts woody and not as juicy tender as I have had at some other cafes in a few Sydney suburbs.

 Saigon Senses is located on the ground floor of the GPT Shopping centre in Wollongong Central, opposite Coles supermarket and one floor above the car park level.
Address is 200 Crown Street, Wollongong NSW.
Saigon Senses is open every day from 10am to 4pm.
Contact +61 403 831 368