Matterhorn - Te Aro Wellington

Venison Denver Leg with captivating sides.

A coolish mid June evening surfaced after the early winter sunset brought down temperatures.  The open fire places in the restaurant were being stoked and the engaging male staff in the courtyard allowed me to sit inside.  Both the food and drink menu is impressive.  The latter concentrated on New Zealand wines (especially from Hawkes Bay, Central Otago and Marlborough)  but also had several selections from Spain, Portugal, Italy and France. Crayfish, tuna  and salmon are featured for seafood but I reckoned the uplifting feature of the menu is the clever and thoughtful combination of ingredients.

I thoroughly enjoyed the duck variations with brioche entree.  Creative, imaginative and tasty on the palate, degustation of the several duck variations inspired my expectations and uplifted my comfort. Perhaps a mark of the return of head chef Sean Marshall from late last year.  Settling down in an Indian Runner cocktail, I did find the place rather too dark for its own good and the tiny flickering table lights did  not much help in reading the menu.

The Matterhorn in Wellington CBD is located hidden inside a passageway - after the sign outside on Cuba Street mall side, there is no other indication of where the restaurant is.  The staff were diligent in ensuring my drinks did not run out, whether non-alcoholic or not.  Seated near the bar, I could catch the banter of guests who treated it more like a pub.

Duck in the dark with brioche.

Being such an established institution in The Land of the Long White Cloud,  the Matterhorn carries a heavy burden in reputation and delivery.

I enjoyed the Franco-German theme and feel of the set up, provided with a finesse in the way the kitchen prepared meats, grilled and cured.  I selected the Venison Denver leg for my mains as it is local Kiwi produce  and I was looking forward to how the Matterhorn served it.  When the dish came, I was immediately distracted by the side servings, especially the eggplant caviar plus the Miso mix with sweet potato - this was an elegant representation of the best from the land.  Black sesame with other grains echoed absolute globalisation.  Oh yes, getting back to the venison, this had a deep flavourful texture.  It held its firmness and yet it was subtle on the bite.

Perhaps it was too early a start.

It had not been easy to zoom down to my final choice of starters.   The coddled egg had gravy over accompaniments of oyster mushrooms, polenta, garden peas and chicken wing bacon, all on one plate.  Another entree, wild rabbit, was enhanced with Spanish sherry, flavoured with cardamom and served with Shitake mushrooms, wild greens, barley and Heritage carrots.

For  lighter mains, Matterhorn offers the house Agria Gnocchi, made with seasonal harvest , pecorino and nettle pesto.  For heavy eaters, the Plate of Pig jumped out to my attention, served with pickled pumpkin,  Savoy cabbage and cider sauce.  Very German, very Oomp Pah Pah!

For those not having a course meal, the Matterhorn offers an interesting option to go with just drinks - the Grazing Food section.  An example of informal flexibility, you can have small serve items like mussels  bathed in malt vinegar, a Charcuterie board, Momma's fried chicken, Tuna sashimi, polenta fried zucchini dipped with spiced Tahini yogurt and simple Dukkah bar nuts.   Just great for after office chill outs and group drink sessions.

There are two outlets for the Matterhorn in New Zealand:

1.  Wellington - 106 Cuba Street, Te Aro

Open Monday to Saturday from 3pm till late;  Sundays from 1pm till late.
Nearest cross road  - Ghuznee or Dixon Streets
Telephone:  04 3843359

Bookings recommended on weekends.
Atmosphere - relaxed and diverse, with business, family and social groups
Sit down section inside and outside  with a joint bar section.

2.  Auckland - 37 Drake Street, Freemans Bay at the Victoria Street Markets  (not visited at this stage).

Open Monday to Saturday from 3pm till late;  Sundays from 1pm till late.
Telephone: 09 9292790

My impressions of the Matterhorn in Wellington:

Ambiance:  It can be a pub, it can be a fine dining experience.  Relaxed and diverse, one can be sitting near boisterous guests or have a private corner.

Taste:  More than satisfying.  Accompaniments bring the diner to higher sensations on the palate.

Location:  Not exactly ideal and such food created deserves a better waterfront setting.

X factor:  The chef's clever combination of ingredients to create exciting and well blended dishes.

Attentive mindset by most staff.

Would I return?  Yes, for the inspiring menu.  Also to soak in with the English Patient Martin Miller's, Saffron Gin, lemon, sugar and hopes made ginger liqueur.  There are only four Australian wines that evening if I saw it right - the Knappstein Shiraz from the Claire Valley South Australian; Shaw & Smith chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills;  Adam's Rib chardonnay from Beechworth and the NV Chambers Muscadelle from Victoria.  One USA choice  - the Zinfandel from California.

Ziferblat - Shaking all Expectations and Thank You for Your Time

Imagine a commercial cafe where customers wash the cups, cutlery and other dishes they have used in the place. Traditional Asian hosts will not allow guests to do that in their homes!  The cafe can be full of alternative lifestyle types - freelancers, artists, focus groups, philosophers, etc.  The first of such cafes opened in Moscow in 2010, and have extended to thirteen , mainly in eastern Europe, although there are outlets in Manchester and Shoreditch, London.  The founder Ivan Mitin was only 25 years old when he commenced with a pay what you can concept - Melbourne and Sydney's Lentil As Anything Cafe operate on such a basis - to the current pay by the minute when you are using the cafe.   Staff clock in guests as if they arrive to a factory or office for paid work.

The average stay by a guest at a Ziferblat can vary.  If you stay for 5 pence a  minute in the UK, that amounts to only about four Brit pounds for around 80 minutes, which is around the price of a barista coffee.  At Clock Face, which is what Ziferblat means, cookies and beverages are complimentary.  What an  unusual concept in retail business - but I reckon such cafes have to be located in urbanite places with hipster crowds that make individuals want to pay for hanging around an establishment.  It may also mean degrading the significance of the coffee served!

Would it work in the Antipodes?  Maybe for groups, formal and informal, requiring a central site to gather and promote their work.   Political associations, artists and students with a purpose have always sought such a location in history past.   Are such people seeking attention to be seen or heard?  The usual conference hubs have charged both for venue and food in the ubiquitous pow-wows held so many in this modern age.    The difference with the Ziferblat business model when compared with convention centre sites is that the former is more relaxing, offers a simpler setting, offers a cosy atmosphere  and works like a private house gathering of friends than conference delegates who don't even chat with each other.

Customers at Ziferblat can even be encouraged to bring their own food.  Hold it, it is beginning to sound like a shared picnic party.  Maybe this underlies the casualness of it all.  Asian cultural  norms would see guests being invited to a home, but in today's Western infused modern urban society, groups of people who know each other increasingly prefer to meet outside the home.   Would Gen Y cohorts bring their connectable gadgets and pay for time sitting in a Ziferblat cafe?  Most probably not, the purpose after all is to engage, converse and communicate with the other guests around you.

How viable is such a business model?  People in history have gathered at watering holes, fine dining places, community canteens and public squares without ever having to pay money for time spent.
It may not work on sleepy islands where nothing much happens.  It can only thrive in population centres where trade, energy and creativity are at high activity levels.  Such cafes can be the new destinations for corporate groups undergoing training and required transformation.

I reckon this is  an interesting experience for all visitors to Europe, to sit in such a cafe and experience the notions and reality of things turning upside down in their expectations and perceptions.  Yes, this has emphasised the value of time, personal, community, employer and family time.  It shouts silently in every one's face that time is precious, irreversible and really, is priceless.
It has recognised that time is a limited resource, have economic value and can be bought and sold like a commodity.

Bowery Lane, Sydney

Lime curd and coconut ice cream flavoured desert with garnishing of toasted coconut. Photo credit - Mr. J.W. Khoo

We were ushered into the inner chambers.  Our on-line booking was deftly recognised.   End of week,  there was relaxed chatter.  It was first floor and we could see the ground lobby through the glass enclosure.  The name of the restaurant evokes the Big Apple, of course.   The American site reminds one of mansions, cocktails, connections to farms and the Old World.   I was half-thinking of Kransky sausages, cold beer and a refuge from the world outside - yes, they do have that every Thursday evening, with the late night shopping hours in Sydney.  In fact, every week night has a theme at Bowery lane.

The classic Nutella Cheesecake with raspberries and  vanilla bean ice cream.  Photo Credit - Mr. J. W. Khoo.

It was a rainy day, the sun had gone hiding and it was windy outside.  Inside, it was so different. I had inadvertently dropped my knife.  Oh yes, JW and I had already started our pre-meal cocktails.

The cutlery knife slooshed gently through to the carpet.  The lady staff member offered a replacement fast, she made me and my mate feel relaxed and had a gentle sense of humour. She transformed the air, made me loosen up and forget about excesses of the past week.   The wait staff were busy but never lacked the attentive stance of responding quickly and engaging with diners in a natural way.  When I was stalling and had a mind block over my choice of mains, they were patient.  Our orders came professionally on a timely basis.   Refreshingly appreciated!  Just like Hershey's cookies and cream milkshake, which is actually on the menu.

Hickory smoked salmon salad, with avocado, hazelnut, cucumber, radish, iceberg and sesame vinaigrette.

For mains, JW had the grilled fish, a Hiramasa Kingfish served with a sherry infused vinaigrette, Tahini, charred corn, baby leeks and pea shoots.  I was refreshed by my Hickory smoked salmon salad.   The fresh produce, seasonal ingredients and emphasis on local sourcing showed through in its menu choices.  Dessert time saw us select a more Asian influenced creation with lime and coconut, balanced by a rather tempting Nutella cheesecake.

The drinks reflect more of the late 19th century New York with ciders, ale. lagers and hop hog.
Mineral water served is Capi's.  The wine selection is more local, with selections from nearby New Zealand, but I noticed a Rosso Fresco Merlot and Shiraz from New York State. and a Gloria Ferrer sparkling Blanc de Noir from Sonoma, California.

Stand outs for their catering options include mini jars of Bircher muesli, served with fruit compote and toasted coconut flakes; the filo pastry stuffed with pumpkin and feta; fritattas of various types; and sliders with Gruyere, double smoked leg ham and Heirloom tomatoes.  And they have conference capability as well.

Other offerings that caught my eye for on-site dining are the San Danielle Proscuitto; the king prawn Pappardelle; the dessert wines; the Scouts Breakfast, with poached egg, goat's cheese, Parmesan crumbs, roast potatoes and crispy Proscuitto; the tuna Carpaccio, with grapefruit pickled cucumber and smashed avocado; and the smoked BBQ glazed Chix wings.

Will I be back?  Yes, first thing on Monday evening, for a NYC cheeseburger and a Brooklyn beer. Later in the week, perhaps those Mango Croquettes, with touches of fried basil and Harissa Aioli.


The Bowery Lane
Shop 1, Level 4
No 1 O'Connell Street
Wynyard Banking District
Sydney CBD

Open every day from 7am till late weekdays; Saturdays open from 5pm and closed on Sundays.
Approach from Circular Quay or Hunter Street
Bookings recommended.
Atmosphere - relaxed and diverse, with business and social groups
Sit down section and a separate cafe section for takeaway
Biggest positive point - Attention to detail

Links - www.bowerylane.com.au

Kin by US, Macquarie Park Sydney

Luscious and delicious - the well marinated pork belly served with an Onsen poached egg and a waffle.

The Australian food scene has leapt by bounds especially in the past dozen years.  Fusion, innovation and boldness seem to be the common thread in striking new offerings in cuisine, setting and taste.  It seemed inevitable - the country is located in the Asia-Pacific, a region with swirling flows of demographics, cultural inspiration and inter-mingling of produce and styles.

Cuisine is never static, driven by the requirements of greater movements of different tribes, powered by a richer customer base looking for variety and transformation.  When East met West in the past, for example in the period of Western colonialism, creativity flourished, new and old ingredients raised expectations and opportunities translated into fascinating options.

I was told of the possible interplay of cooking styles and ingredients in this cafe restaurant sited in the hub of an emerging new world in the north-west of Sydney. Many migrants with a south-east Asian background live in this residential corridor.   If I am direly looking for traditional cooking, I would not come here to KIN, but I am looking forward to creativity and making the best blend of what the modern world can offer.  I read the menu - hmm, Asian sandwiches, beef Rendang on a burger ( Bao Cheeka Wow Wow) and durian or palm sugar Affogato - they immediately caught my eye.   No heavy meals, all are apparently brunch and breakfast items.  Oh ya, toasted brioches, my favourite, in the Sub-Marine.

Congee with deep fried crullers, garnishings of shallots, pork floss, ginger , chillies and served on a wooden board.  Photo Credit - Ms. Zoe Yu.

The four persons in my group sat at one end of the community wooden table.  There is an outdoor aspect with good ventilation in KIN, even if there is no outdoor seating.  I felt as if I was in a mate's place and in a lounge with a high ceiling and wide open sliding door ways.  I was fascinated with the counter and above the counter, with its carefully selected and placed items used in the open kitchen.

As with most contemporary cafes, industrial lighting lamps are utilised.  Six months into operation, KIN already has a healthy base of customers, even in the early morning, particularly for train commuters as well.  The burgeoning IT business hub of Macquarie Park is also a positive contributing factor.  Coffee is a partnership with Reuben H and using the La Marzocco machines.

Even on a weekday arvo, the customers dig in.

Some names on the menu stood out - the BFF Burger, Snap Crackle Plop (chicken rice), No Lah (breakky with fibre and grain) and the daily special but changing Sambos.   There were already some items not available by noon (well, KIN has been upfront by stating this on their menu), so a fan of this place will come early.   Mushrooms are referred to as "Shrooms".   I like the idea of changing sandwich fillings for the Sambos, providing an element of surprise and delight - a good strategy for regulars.

The Onsen egg is the ubiquitous offering (apart from the purple cabbage shreds) which accompany several of the menu dishes and perhaps underlining the cafe experience here.  Call it the 63 degree Celsius thing or bathed egg, mine was served on top of a good looking waffle and increased the attractiveness on the plate.   Gooey, runny, flavourful, fresh.  It also came with the congee, which is perhaps the most traditional of KIN's current offerings, together with the Miso soup and coconut milk based Kaya spread.  The Miso Yummy is  better choice in flavour than the congee.  In addition, there is also a good variety of teas, including iced options.  We could watch one of the staff members preparing waffles fresh.

Gula Melaka palm sugar infused ice cream with your Affogato.

Our experience with the service was fast, friendly and satisfying.  The mainly Gen Y table interaction crew showed energy, interest and engagement.  I love the miniature bamboo board servers and the blue designed cups and plates.   Servings tend to be on the small side, but larger sized dishes are indicated accordingly.

Does KIN live up to the fusion expectation on my part?  It is hard to deny KIN's menu is currently a hotch potch of Asian, rather than extending too far beyond.  Definite influences and recipes from Straits Chinese, Singaporean, Japanese, Italian and Korean inspirations.   This may most probably echo the kinship ties with such cuisine for its owners, Uel and Shannelle Lim.

It feels core cosmopolitan, the kind of snacks and burgers for the urbanite busy.  KIN appeals straight to the heart and palate of its target market.

I would say the Waffle Belly tops their menu in my opinion.   The belly melts in my mouth and I must say a lot of thought has gone into the marinade, it is neither over sweet or salty and allows the inherent flavours of a good braising to come through in the served cuts.  Waffle has usually been associated with maple or sweet syrup and this is a good twist on the combination in one plate.

A well designed prep counter.

KIN by US
Corner of Saunders Close and Herring Road
Macquarie Park, north west Sydney
5 minutes walk from Macquarie Station, Shopping Centre and University exit
Vehicle parking across on Herring Road for up to 2 hours
Opens everyday except Sunday, from 7am to 3pm
Tone - Eat and go or takeaway, and then go for some serious shopping at H & M

Links:  www.facebook.com/kinbyus

Sifters Espresso - Wollongong NSW

Iced Latte.

Perhaps this is the most consistent gathering of bearded hipsters south of Surry Hills.  Fronted by a funky clothes shop Minty Duds, the sloping lane from Market Street leads to a fete like location of paved tar, several forms of seating, a caravan park like setting, a hidden world beside alleys as if you are in Melbourne and one of the best coffees this side away from the Grounds off Alexandria.  And the food, partnering with Son of A Gun, complements the coffee focus, the crowd demographic and the daily opening hours.   On a nice day, the theme is sky blue.

Puddles there may be on a persistently rainy day, but you can rely on the Sifters, as surely as you can find a hard copy of Future Perfect magazine there.   There are potted plants on the side, apparently mobile loos, art pieces hanging around and easy parking on the adjoining Victoria Street (weekends are free).  Most just walk in from the nearby GPT shopping centre or Wollongong's burgeoning food street - Keira.  Every time I go there, I reckon it is like coming upon a secret location - and then hey I think I know this chap, this gal and that.  Miniature native plants adorn most tables.

Before 1130am, there are light sandwiches and burgers, but the intent is on the coffee beans and how Sifters drip it, make it and craft it.   Mel Cox wants to showcase a diversity of Single Origins and offer customers  a different blend every time they visit.  Australia is already the home of so many blends - but there is this big wide world there!    You can have an alternative range to get away from the usual makes - and it can be tailor served for you also in drip filter, macchiato, double shot, ristretto, affagato, doppio and cold brew.

The Burger Butty.

After 1130am, it is time to experiment with the food.   Yes, they do have the big breakfast, or their own version.  I noticed the ramen, rather fusion than the original, but with ingredients and garnishing that reflect modern Aus than noodle outlet Tokyo.   Son of  A Gun hails from the Heritage Kitchen  in Wollongong's northern village, Bulli.   The signature item is the rhubarb compote granola, a special blend, a special take and  special recipe.  There are also smoked lamb toasties, something to differentiate from the parade of pulled pork, mixed grain salads and brisket rolls seen in many of the burgeoning number of modern Australian cafes around the country.

Before 1130am, there are two bites that appeal to me, one with avocado smash  and the other is that layered bun where omelette infuses with bacon, sauce and garnish - the Butty.   I reckon the Butty may have just the sort of pull to form a growing tribe.  The ocean may not be near, the stadium has no game, but any time is a good time for the Butty!

Sifters Expresso, together with Pepe's Garden, artist Jess Cochrane and Minty Duds
82 Market Street, but down a side lane
Wollongong CBD
Telephone 0437 886 900
Open every day from 7am till 4ish pm


Would I return?  A definite yes.
What is the mood there? Casual, fashionable and relaxed.
How is the ambiance?  Outdoors, mates turn up and if there is no seat, just have a take away.
Seating:  Varied, with artificial turf, director's chairs, pub style, normal table and sloping on the lane as well!
Business model:  Separate teams prepare the food and coffee.
Dress code:  Forward looking, just to be different, hipster.
Compulsory for males:  A well kept beard.
Compulsory for females: The shoes you choose.
Rush hour: Yummy mummies mid-morning on weekdays, brunch hour on weekends.
What is the X factor here?   The whole package.