Big Tree House Cafe, Rydalmere NSW

The yummy Eggs Benni for breakky.

It is a delightful to find a city centre styled cafe in the north-western Sydney suburbs.  Vehicle parking is much easier, the Opal card relevant bus from both Parramatta and Eastwood does pass by on the adjoining Park Road (but alas only on weekdays) and there is a train station at Dundas (but on  the much maligned City Rail Carlingford line, with not very regular trains and the need to change at Clyde).   

Putting all these minor transport irritations aside, I reckon the Big Tree House is a gem of a place, with a relaxed atmosphere, tree lined roads, friendly staff, Campos coffee and a variety of creative menu items for breakfast, brunch and lunch.  The setting is residential but the mood can be hipster in an area bound by Kissing Point and Victoria Roads.   My experience there has been its popularity with youngsters, families, hipsters, trades, business twosomes, women's groups, mates and dates.

Spaghetti with prawns, rocket, sourdough, cheese and a squeeze of lemon.

There are not many items on the menu as I reckoned, but several specific items stand out.  

Goats on Toast and the Big Tree House Burger are its signature offerings, with the latter having its cheese and aioli plus pineapple and beetroot raising the taste stakes.   The Goats On Toast is the main reason to check this place out - organic nuts sit on the bed of sourdough, and the French goats cheese has drizzled honey on the side.

I highly recommend its unique prosciutto and melon sandwich, even if you are not in  hurry, for this is one to savour and experience.    A preferred choice especially with my female friends is the fresh prawn and mango salad -  and this creative offering here comes with avocado, cucumber, passion fruits sauce and pickled ginger, a touch of Asian and a touch of fusion.   Accompany all this with a Virgin Grape Mojito!   The attention to detail at the Big Tree House comes off as a significant point in its menu and presented dishes.

For brunch or breakky, I love the corn fritters, lovingly served with tomato relish, poached egg, avocado and bacon.  Another special treat, which I am eyeing, is the asparagus and saute mushroom, drizzled with truffle oil and accompanied by the ubiquitous poached egg and mushroom bites.   The croissants have double smoked ham and Swiss cheese inside, part from the home made Big Tree House jams.

Sweet-tooths have two recommended choices - first in the ricotta pancakes, swiped with honey cinnamon butter and served with caramelised banana;  and second, but not least, in the Brioche French Toast, which comes with fresh berries, maple syrup and vanilla Mascarpone.

Counter view, the barista machine and the board menu.  Help yourself to drinking water on the left.

The main counter lets you see through the kitchen, often abuzz with preparation, garnishing and presentation.   There are a few tables only the pavement, the cafe faces houses and I prefer indoor seating.   Customers are comfortable to while away chatting within their own space, young mummies bring in their welcome infants and kids.  You serve your own drinking tap water at the side and the food comes in a timely manner.  

The young barista Paul is enthusiastic and chats with lunchers with a smile.  A central bar top has reading materials placed.  I felt as if I had dropped by a mate's place, the feel is wooden rustic.  Next time it's onwards go for the three mushroom crepe!

Big Tree House Cafe88 Calder RoadRydalmere NSW 2116Nearest Cross road - set of lights with Park and Calder RoadsClosed on TuesdaysOtherwise open from early morning till around 4pm.

Din Tai Fung - Miranda Fair Sydney

Busy in the open view kitchen - the emphasis on freshness is not just in the ingredients but also in the preparation.

Taiwan styled Dian Xin* can be different from the Cantonese Dim Sum*, although both expressions in variations of the Chinese language refer to the ritual of partaking in and sampling small tapa-like dishes for variety in flavours and texture.  Historically such get togethers were meant for the early morning, with modern society norms and pressures extending it to a brunch and lunch thing.    Din Tai Fung and Shanghai-inspired outlets around the world have extended the availability of such food for evenings these days, although with a stop for the staff after 3pm and before 530pm each day.

The other noted difference is that such "touch of the heart" cuisine offering restaurants as a general practice do not allow table bookings - customers come as you are and then only we shall seat you, perhaps reflecting the Asian penchant for best facilitating revenue turnover, but also removing the potential conflicts in misunderstood communication, errors in bookings and so forth. Yum cha is another expression referring to drinking tea, which are de rigour in such places, but these days alcohol is also available in licensed places.
* literally "touch of the heart".

Soy sauce marinated chicken.

Din Tai Fung is a most familiar name in this space, modernising the traditional tea house, keeping younger generations interested and ensuring a simple but fresh menu.  Outside the Asia-Pacific, where it operates currently in nine nations, it can also be found in the USA.

The outlet at the southern Sydney Shire of Sutherland has two levels, is part of a well customised shopping centre and makes an Asian foray into an otherwise mainstream Australian demographic.  Here the choices are not restricted to purely Dian Xin items - there are also offering that are usually found at dining time, like those I expect to be accompanied by steamed rice.  Service is efficient, you are given a paper checklist to tick what you want and the literal steam from bamboo baskets add to the theme and ambiance.

A Taipei favourite - bread spicy mix crumbed fried chicken.

Some people do find the food bland and underwhelming, having to dip into sauces instead of enjoying the original flavours of each dish.    Having said this, I do recognise the importance of the sauce quality as well - they often give a swirl of sour, sweet, salty and spicy in the mouth.

I am happy the food does not make me thirsty two hours after I take it, as can be experienced in some other places.  It is an art to retain the subtlety of Dian Xin offerings and this is best evident when using fresh produce.  An example of this is the hand pulled noodles, served with a marinated soy sauce mix or in soups -  this  is a staple of mainland northern Chinese food, akin to breads for European populations.  It is said that if frozen meats, seafood or veg are utilised, this can be easily picked up in steamed dumplings.   Think of the signature dish Xiao Long Bao at DTF -  they are steamed pork  buns with a twist, hot soup inside the steamed dough.  Every ingredient is a subject for flavour, texture and skill.

Interesting enough, this one item - the Xiao Long Bao - is said to be the dish that launched a thousand possibilities for Din Tai Fung.  It gave the business a turning point, changing the original trade in cooking oils.  Talk of change management, business continuity and sheer grit - the founder Yang Bing Yi and his wife never looked back after getting into the Dian Xin line of business.

Steamed dumplings, with usually shrimp and pork inside - a common feature in Cantonese, Shanghai and Beijing cuisines.

So what is so different from this cuisine from the Hong Kong and Guangzhou fare?   Perhaps the availability of mung bean noodles (Xiao Chi), the chicken soup, the Xiao Long Biao and the Taiwan-styled drinks.  Its Silvercord branch in Hong Kong was awarded one Michelin star.  There is a strict monitoring to ensure that every dumpling pastry made has to be weighted between 4.8 and 5.2 grams when prepared.  

Tim Ho Wan Restaurant - Chatswood Sydney

The dainty and flavourful Siew Mai, with a red hat for a difference.

The reputation had begun in Hong Kong, escalated when Lung King Heen Restaurant was awarded one Michelin Star.  Chef Mak Kwai Pui was responsible for the cuisine served at Lung King Heen.  The rest you may say is history. Chef Mak then served at the Le Meridian Hong Kong, before he decided to purse his own business - and Tim Ho Wan in Mongkok was born six years ago, with a modest 19 seats location.

 The crowds continued to troop in THW branches in Hong Kong, Taipei, Singapore, Manila and Kuala Lumpur. This year saw the launch of the "adding of good vibes' in Australia.  Chatswood, the bustling centre of Asian migrants with a higher than average income level, complete with a transport hub and a shopping precinct, was the obvious choice to launch, with Burwood, Sydney Chinatown and Melbourne apparently in the line of sight.

With personal curiosity, social media expectation and crowd hype, I really tried to keep an open mind as I joined the queue on a late Sunday afternoon with two other friends.   The THW outlet in Chatswood is in the District Dining Precinct, purpose built over the Railway Street side of the rail station.  There are expensive high rise apartments nearby, commuters can make a dash for a yum cha session here before continuing on City rail to the Macquarie Shopping Centre and Macquarie University.

The signature baked Char Siew or barbecued pork bun.

The deco is modern, emphasising on tables for twosomes.   The staff that afternoon did look stressed out, although it was not a really busy time by THW experience.  Asking for drinking water involved a few times trying - the wait staff were not very communicative as well, seemingly pressured to clear tables and bring in the ordered dishes than  doing anything else.

Customers reflect the Hong Kong Gen Y anime loving spectrum - and the cooler climes of mid-autumn here did help in dressing up.  There were the old timers scattered across the tables, obviously relishing of good old times in the Fragrant Harbour.  Non-Chinese Australians seemed happy with the menu, which consists of only twenty-five items - what a brilliant idea for a business model, which incorporates the difficult-to-discard concept of encouraging table turnover,  an easy to order picture menu card and quick working staff to bring in dishes within an impressive five minutes after ordering.

Liver Cheong on the foreground, with steamed pork ribs in black bean sauce in the background.

The lady at the payment counter had a sense of humour.  I could not place it truly - was this a blend of Surry Hills, Mr.Wong in Wynyard and with shades of those great traditional Cantonese restaurants?  One thing for sure, there was not enough space to push trolleys  with bamboo baskets, every inch was better allocated to paying customers.

Ambiance and taste, with bean curd skin wraps in the foreground.

And bamboo baskets there were a-plenty, even providing the motif for the upper wall.    The chefs and kitchen staff looked focused and busy.  I did hear about the signature dish - baked barbecued  pork buns.  The dough outside was not the traditional recipe, it was an old-styled skin, something refreshingly different.  Biting into the bun did make me feel, hey, there may have been too much sugar in the outer coating, but I was tipped off to savour what was inside, more than anything else.  And there it was - savoury, tender on-the-bite barbecued pork - as you broke open the bun in halves.  The taste comes up first as they slither into my mouth, delicate and wholesome, standing a class above the rest.  There are three such buns on one serving plate - now how many shall I order to take back to the Wollongong Coast?

My favourite - steamed fish maw with prawn paste.

My dining mates did find the braised chicken feet with abalone sauce different and drier than the prevalent version in most Australian yum cha sessions.  We all agreed that it just was more of an old school recipe.  Most of the items available were savoury rather than sweet.  There seems to be an abundance of using pork and shrimp in the steamed servings.  There is no rash and rough presentation, every thing has been predetermined to be as dainty and delicate as possible when served.  Each dish is charged around the seven to eight dollar mark in Chatswood.  Seafood rules at THW, so be prepared.  Oh yes, there are also spring rolls, always a hit with the kids and beer drinkers (no alcohol license has been granted to THW at the time of writing).  Grandma may want to check out the glutinous rice with chicken and mushroom wrapped in bamboo leaves, I avoided that as it is a hefty serving. Chinese tea is charged at $2.50 per person.

Shrimp and veg dumpling - refreshing and uplifting.

The world of corporate and competitive cuisine in the great cities of the world can be challenging.  And dramatic - I understand, correct me if I am mistaken, that chef Eric Koh, who was head hunted from Mr. Wong's in Sydney CBD to head THW in Chatswood, has been reported to have headed back to his previous employ. Does this mean anything, maybe not, as long as the quality of the dishes THW churns out in Australia continue to excite and satisfy customers.  Tellingly, the Sydney operation is overseen by Singapore based Chef Cheung Yat Sing -  this follows an increasing trend whereby Australia is viewed as a business province of headquarters in low-taxed Singapore.

The Cantonese are fond of poetically naming dishes with splendour and meaning.  THW is welcome in this great southern land.    In Hong Kong pop of previous generations, they recognised the Four heavenly Kings in that music genre - and so now there are also four such kings in dim sim cuisine -  the barbecued pork bun, vermicelli roll (Cheong) with pig liver, steamed egg cake and the pan fried radish cake.  Please ask your Cantonese speaking mates for the beautiful Chinese names!

Where the creative people are.

So in the end, after half an hour and devouring ten items amongst the three of us for a late teatime snack session, what are my recommended dishes?  I have to say the Siew Mai and the liver filled Cheong.  They are made with finesse, require delicate and skilled hands plus they came out being served with the right texture and freshness.  Has the restaurant lived up to the hype?  Perhaps not, but it is still worth trying for a few select items and try to visit away from rush hour.   Some say this interim Australian operation of THW does not provide exactly the same taste as in Hong Kong, but I think that can be subjective, so just judge for yourself.

Tim Ho Wan Restaurant - whole day dim sum from 10am till 9pm every day
1 Railway Street, upper level facing road
Chatswood NSW 2067
Telephone 612 9898 9888
Bookings in private room available for a minimum spend of AUD300 - otherwise is a wait and sit system.

Apparently the dish that draws in the crowds, especially in their South-east Asian outlets.

Milking the Aussies - and Not Doing Anything In Return

Rising competition from other economies is one reality that Australia and its government have to grapple with seriously for the future.  The media here is full of reasons and analysis as to why the nation is potentially facing its greatest economic crisis in 25 years - leading us on a merry go round of "oh, it is due to falling demand from China, the sad and significant fall in iron ore prices, etc., etc..."   

What the country's politicians and economic experts do not sufficiently recognise is the lack of action required from within - and not external factors - to innovate, be more productive, change the mindset of economic action and to take more responsibility to find solutions, instead of continually reacting to events or just patch working with temporary solutions.

Fiscal discipline in the eighties had brought benefits and set the tone for the long years of economic prosperity and growth until the beginning of the second decade of the 21st century.  A rethink is required for the Government and populace to get off their bums and mesmerising comfort zone.   Why rely so much on interest rate cuts or increases by the RBA to save the course of the economy?  What about providing investment incentives;  spending on training and the young to prepare for the future; utilising other monetary and fiscal tools; having a forward looking and liberalising tax reform; and acting on taking advantage of Australia's unique advantages?

It is not effective to fight off efficiencies from low cost competitors by relying on Government subsidy and protection, as Australia is not only no longer the Lucky County, but one that may no longer afford the continuing costs of providing support to less than productive sectors.  The Government cannot afford to act like the old rich family next door, no longer being able to afford the high life and related expenditures, and keep on borrowing to maintain the facade from the past.

Is Australia forever going to be the supplier of raw materials, commodities and resources?  When is the Government going to encourage investment in adding value, instead of happily and lazily selling the raw stuff and not harvesting the margins from developing products from raw ingredients?

If the country continues its laid back attitude in the management of its economic and financial affairs, foreign parties can continue to milk our cow, dig up our backyard and essentially beat us at the world economic stakes. 

Patiscceria Massimo Papa - Fairy Meadow NSW

Cannoli filled with ricotta goodness.

The Illawarra suburbs of Fairy Meadow, Balgownie and Mount Ousley combine to form a hub of Australians with a strong Italian background.   It is therefore no surprise to notice several Italian related icons when strolling around the main strip of Fairy Meadow - especially near the Fraternity Club, Leisure Coast Markets and the Costa Azzura Restaurant.  Earlier this year, a gem of a patiscceria, Massimo Papa, opened its doors at the back of an unassuming house beside the Coles Complex.  Walk into the driveway and there is a modern commercial building housing displays of row after row of beautifully made pastry, cakes, gelato,  savoury items and biscuits.  For me it was like walking into a cave of craftily made delights, many choices and with an Euro feel.


Address: 130 Princes Highway
Fairy Meadow NSW 2519
Landline: 612 4285 6353
Open every day, from around 7am to 5pm on weekdays and 8am to 3pm on weekends.

A selection of flaky pastry, pistachio nut encrusted biscotti and doughnuts.

I recommend three particular offerings at Massimo Papa's. 

The first is the Cannoli in either the ricotta or chocolate creamy filling options, and may I say, with the smaller serves if you are just having a cuppa and eat there for morning or afternoon sessions, as you have to save space for the other delicacies!  The tube  shaped pastry of fried pastry dough does come fist sized as well, reminiscent of those found in Piana degli Albanesi near Palermo in Sicily.

The second I propose you try are the flavourful, well textured and shell shaped  Sfogliatelle  (also in picture above).  The pastry here is rich but rewarding - and wait for what is inside!  Its look outside is meant to echo stacked leaves and this is a speciality from Napoli and Campania province.  Lard, butter, shortening or magazine are utilised to brush the pastry.  Fillings can range from almond paste to ricotta.

The pick me up Tiramisu is available in an individual serve, completely seducing me with its liquor, creaminess and seductive lure.   The quality of the Mascarpone cheese is evident, with the attractive dark chocolate log lying on top of the captivating creation.

The quintessential Tiramisu provides a contrast against the almond flavoured  Ricciarelli.

The coffee is Molinari, the staff are friendly and the place gets real busy on weekends.  Massimo Papa's is open everyday from early morning till late arvo.  Vehicle parking can be a challenge for there are only three spots in front of the cafe bakery - and many a visitor just do the take away and leave.  If you are settling in down, it is best to park along the side road facing the Fraternity, although there are efforts to allow Massimo's customers also park in the immediate neighbour's.

The pretty and tasty fare that Massimo's provides remind me of Papa's in Haberfield, that other hub of Italian lifestyle in this greater Sydney region.  I understand that Massimo also had experience in that other Papa's before opening on his own accord in the Wollongong area.  There are also savoury options apart from the obvious sweet versions.  It is interesting, like in Haberfield, that many family groups come to Massimo Papa's.  There is more indoor than outdoor seating.  The staff are helpful, even offering water to a thirsty pooch I had with me one hot arvo. So are you convinced - we do not have to wait until it is Christmas to drop by this place!

A cup of hazelnut gelato goodness.

Molinari blend coffee with a snack of fruit tart.

The first initial flavour offerings in June 2015.