Papparich, Chatswood NSW

The kopi tiam of old Malaya has been revitalised into a modern setting, with dark brown panel surroundings, Australian sourced ingredients for classic dishes from street and home of another era, another place and another cuisine.  As immigration from Malaysia continues to flow into the Antipodes, the soul food of childhood and family for many of these arrivals are represented and repackaged for another generation.  Does this symbolise the infusion of more Asia into a continental island that is so close geographically and yet have remained for most years apart, culturally and politically? Australia offers a fresh start for the adventurous, disenfranchised and business dynamic from other lands - and in return it is enriched with new thoughts, new cuisines and new colours.

South Indian rotis, Cantonese noodles, Straits Chinese snacks, Eurasian cakes, Malay satay sticks, Indonesian nasi lemak, Western influenced breads, Hainan chicken rice and amazing drink combinations ( Ribena and water melon slices?) litter the interesting menus at Papparich outlets. The food is already a fusion from a few hundred years of demographic intermixing above the Equator - and now they arrive in another land of more than just a few racial groups. Australia will have a pride of its own evolving and distinctive cuisine in the future.  In the meantime, this nation absorbs, allows and experiments.  White coffee is mixed with milk tea (cham) and longans are dropped in soya milk honey.   Silken tofu is served cold and lightly laced with a palm sugar syrup.   Roti canai is provided  with chocolate, ice cream and banana cuts in a heady colonial era theme.  Bread slices coated with a coconut cream custard called kaya can be ordered at any time of the day and night, and not just at breakfast time.  The staff are mostly with East Asian and Indian faces, unlike those at Papparich branches back in the homeland.

On a cold weekend, I relished the comforts of a simple combo of soft congee with steamed chicken a la Hainan (photo above).  This most subtle of a meal requires great care in preparation, to ensure that flavours rise above the apparent plain look and that garnishings and sauces do not over whelm our palates but instead give us an overall warm feeling of satisfaction inside. Soothing, this can be looked forward by those sensing an impeding cold setting in or savoured by the elderly or their grandchildren without any hint of complications for digestion.

The plethora of street food familiar to most Australians these days - curry laksa, char koay teow and prawn mee - are available, but some with a twist.  How about curry laksa with cockles off their shell?
White coloured rice noodles can be served dry or stir fried in a wet rich gravy. Are you game for a Thai inspired dish utilising tamarind and flaky fish in the unusual soup - the assam laksa?  I am surprised that you can even order a plate of deep fried chicken skin, something so niche but great to accompany with beer.  And don't forget - you can have your yum cha offerings like dumplings and vegetarian rolls as well.  What a melting pot!

Kingsford NSW - Food Street

The Kingsford section of Anzac Parade, between the adjoining Middle and Meeks Streets, has in the recent few months become even more of a food hub for a variety of Asian food.  Sydneysiders know that Kingsford, which lies like a fifteen minute drive south-east of the city centre on a good day, is also a residential  focus for 18 to 25 year olds, mostly customers of the University of NSW in nearby Kensington and a mecca for the various nationalities from South-east Asia, China and Hong Kong.  Apart from English, the predominant languages you hear spoken on the streets are often Indonesian, Hokkien, Mandarin and Cantonese.  Above, a Japanese outlet with transparency, not far from the roundabout - there I was at the bottom right hand side, trying to take this shot.

Kingsford once had hopes of being joined to the Sydney rail network but that plan was dashed by cost cutting in the late 70s and the line terminated at Bondi Junction instead.  Today the theme is food, as illustrated by the view shown above, walking along the pavement towards the roundabout - a series of well known cafes specialising in yogurt, gelato and Malaysian street food.  The Petaling Street chain  is well known in Melbourne circles and refers to the main street in Kuala Lumpur's Chinatown. This outlet in Kingsford joins its Sydney Chinatown branch opened around two years ago.  The latter joint is narrow, crowded and has dining in a basement.  The one in Kingsford is spacious, offers so much better light inside and outside and sits on a raised floor overlooking Anzac Parade.  Lovers of KL Cantonese and street food
will check out what Petaling Street provides - my favourites there are claypot noodles, ice kacang dessert and chicken satay skewers.  Their competitor is only a few doors away along Anzac Parade - Albee's - with its unique chunky curry puffs, fish head curry, Hainan chicken rice, char koay teow and lobak (Straits Chinese pork rolls) counted as my preferred choices there.

Odea's Corner (above) now stands in contrast to the medium high rise apartment block behind it. On an early August Saturday, it was rather warm for a winter season but the sky was deep blue and the trees still bare.  Small groceries, service shops and newsagents dot the main commercial strip that is Anzac Parade, but behind just a row of shops are housing, mainly units, a lot perched on hilly land, many old and with a varied past.  Vehicle parking can be intensely competitive around lunch times. Eastgardens Westfield shopping centre is only a ten minute drive away and Coogee Beach beckons past Randwick to the east.

I came across a strikingly easy to read display of Indonesian street food - the dishes offered look more Sumatran than Balinese, but I loved the simplicity of it all.  Satay skewers from Padang, chicken slow cooked in yellow curry, the popular gado gado salad and hard boiled eggs served in a chili based sambal all sounded to me like what South-east Asian backpackers want and do eat!  Ayam Goreng 99 is not too far away, offering deep fried chook in various cuts and styled servings from Java. Indonesian food outlets have been operating for more than 20 years in Kingsford - some are halal, others are not, some run by ethnic Indonesians and others run by Chinese families with Indonesian names.   Buck-Me Jellico restaurant takes a pun on the name of one of its main dishes ( bak-mee). Ubud offers Balinese fare, Palembang Pampek Noodle is from Sumatra and there are two Rasas to choose from - Indo Rasa and Sedap Rasa.

The Greeks used to dominate Kingsford, and they came mostly en mass from the Mediterranean island of Castellorizo, as symbolised by the Castellorizian Club along the very winding and long Anzac Parade itself.  It is interesting to note that the UNSW has been graduating many international and domestic students of Asian  heritage for the past 50 or more years - and it is no surprise to know that over a fifth of Kingsford's residents claim Chinese ancestry, whilst those with Greek background now number less than 9 percent.  There are more residents in Kingsford of Asian origin than those with English roots or true blue Aussies.  The suburb, part of the Randwick Shire, is close to the Sydney Airport, otherwise known as Charles Kingsford Smith Airport.

Dong Dong Noodles (picture above) has been my fav easy and casual Hong Kong styled cafe, where for more than 15 years I get to gobble endless egg noodle strands mixed with a sweet yet savoury sauce and served with bits of char siew, duck cuts, roast pork with crispy skin or soy flavoured steamed or roast chicken.  Here, in a narrow spaced shop with seating in front and also at the back, customers, mostly youngsters, couples or family groups, enjoy soul food from southern China without fuss and with a relatively quiet sense of contention. There are condiments concocted from cut ginger, pounded garlic and vinegar, but rarely a chili can be seen, unless you specifically ask, and then it is just a chili sauce and not fresh cut chili strips.

Shihlin offers Taiwan street styled snacks, to resolve the need for a hunger pang at any time of the day or when you may not want a full serve meal.  Modelled like a fast food outlet, and named after the Shihlin markets in Taiwan, with earlier opened outlets in Indonesia, Subang Jaya in Malaysia and Somerset in Singapore, the business seems ethnocentric.

It has signature dishes like crispy floss egg crepe, sweet plum potato fries, seafood tempura and hand made oyster flavoured mee sua (thin noodles), reflecting the melting pot of influences from Japan, Fujian and native Taiwanese itself.   Its focused market is clear - the next branch in Australia is at One Central Park in the southern end of Sydney CBD where Chinatown meets Broadway. Even Simon Reeve of the BBC production on Australia today could not help to remark how Asian the streets of Sydney have become, although he did not get to see Kingsford.

Celebrations 24

Having a curry cook off.

Watching how paw paws grow from flower bud to fruit.

Enjoying authentic Cantonese cuisine on a winter's night.

Getting real hand written letters in the slow mail.

Drinking a well made cuppa from a mate you have known for so long.

Walking down a charming street in Melbourne.

Watching the sun rise gloriously with several colours along the ocean front north of Wollongong.

Putting nice toiletries beside a rain shower in a restored house.

Returning to Sydney city centre as a working lifestyle.

Relaxing with mates who inspire me.

Embracing change and breaking through from a comfort zone.

Letting go of and culling stuff I no longer require for a long time now.

Sharing the joy, especially after breaking whatever perceived barriers with a special someone.

Returning to a place where almost everybody knows you - and your name.

Resting for the night where you can wake up to see the ocean.

Meeting someone who has inner happiness no matter what.

Sharing an overnight train cabin in an unknown country and making friends anyway.

Feeling a unique joy when someone makes effort to cook for you in their home.

Realising an ultimate sense of proportion, perspective and patience.

Having flexibility and freedom to achieve the same outcomes.

Knowing you can rely on a very special circle of mates to chat on anything and mutually enhance our mindsets.

Being introduced to people who are also important in the lives of our closest and most important.

Observe the dynamic energy and enthusiasm of wild life in their natural state.

Eating comfort food in the place of our childhood.

Crown Dragon Chinese Restaurant - St George Leagues Club, Kogarah NSW

Deep fried calamari that goes well with Tsingtao beer. In the background are spring rolls, a basket with steamed dumplings and prawn crackers.

Andy was going to Hawaii, Rob was changing work roles and I had not seen Tez in so many months. There was a suggestion to go Chinese some where in a Sydney suburb and we did not venture too far beyond the Shire. We chose the home of the NRL Dragons team, an unassuming complex on the way to the Sydney airport and illustrative of many similar clubs dotted across the Australian residential landscape.  There was the bar to gather in first, with already live singing by a couple on stage and the influx of Friday evening revellers on a nippy July start of the weekend. I enjoyed my Crown lager and soon we entered the den of the Crown Dragon upstairs.  Seven of us booked at 7pm, but with no Kevin07 in sight.

Beer glasses, tea cups and waiting bowls all at the commencement of the group dinner.

There is much trendy innovation in Cantonese cooking back in the homeland above the Equator, with Guangzhou and Hong Kong still leading the pack in such culinary developments. Cantonese cooking emphasises on the fresh, the quick stir and the blending of aromatic stuff without the use of spices and chili.  At times what we encounter dotted across many overseas Chinese communities are remnants of a glorious and traditional past, whist the Motherland has transformed in culinary approaches and methods.  Some well known dishes were made for overseas audiences and never arose in China itself.  These include the deep fried ice cream batter, the chop suey, the fortune cookie, the deep fried calamari and some versions of the fried rice.  On this occasion, we consciously chose the steamed Jasmine rice, which would go down better with the several dishes ordered.

They look oily but the pork spare ribs were well done having a marinade of pepper and honey.

Good company is essential to have while partaking in a  Chinese dinner.  Such meals are essentially communal affairs, gatherings to celebrate or recover after much effort doing business or work and occasions to catch up on small chat and bigger agendas. I enjoyed catching up with my mostly university sector crowd, though Dave could not make it that night. Wills had driven most of us up and Murph had come in from the city centre.  We had made a pitch stop at Franco's house, where we made a point to touch the box containing the remains of beloved Bullet, the four legged character who had himself touched lives from Figtree to the Shire, and then we went to chill out for the end of week.

The Beijing duck waits, now whole, but soon to be carved up for their skin and then the meat.

Beijing duck is one creation that I love, and the ducks in Australia are now fattened in Victoria for supply to the nation's Asian restaurants. They are fed a special formula, their skins are ensured crispy dry by hanging up to best benefit from the cold and dry winter air and good servings must minimise the content of fat and maximise the proportion of succulent meat.  The crispy bite on the tongue skins are served with hoi sin sauce and wrapped with shallot cuts in front of you  in small dough packets before you dive in to them.  Most of the meat is then shredded to serve in a second dish for the same diners.
Good Beijing duck is not confined to China's capital city.

Complimentary fruit, with watermelon slices and an interesting way to serve Mandarins on their skins.

Chinese culture treasures orange coloured Mandarins and these fruits are described as gold in the often symbolic Chinese dialects.   It is interesting to note that Chinese practice still dictates the consumption of fruits after a meal, although some perspectives in the past few years may suggest better digestion when we take fruits before the mains.  Smoked tea is usually an effective way of washing down some of the rich food in Chinese cooking, but we did not have any tea this evening, so fruits will do!

My Apple  IPhone camera may not have done justice to capturing the essence of the beef hotpot.

Beef is rarely provided in single serve steak portions in Chinese restaurants and what comes out are often small sliced portions.  This particular meat is popularly cooked with green peppers, black bean sauce, stews, snow peas, braised hot pots, noodles, ginger, string beans, hot soups and in skewers, depending from which province the dish originates.  Buddhist vegetarianism also discourages beef consumption.

A stir fried combination of seafood with bean sprouts, but some thing was not so uplifting in this dish.

Sesame seed coated baked biscuits (centre) which are harder on the bite than those without.

Mild curry with prawns, pumpkin slices and onion garnishing.

Chicken hot pot - appetising though dark.

My favourite dishes that evening were the marinated chicken hot pot and the surprisingly satisfactory prawn curry.  This curry is more of what you get in Macau and Nagasaki.

The second serving from the two part order of the Beijing duck dish - the sliced up meat is wok stir fried with ginger, shallots and carrots. Another  variation of this serving is to have the meat in the sang choy bow.

Tim was the person in charge of our dining table and he did a consistently good job at it. The restaurant Manager also dropped by.  The Crown Dragon has a spacious feel and there was  a birthday singing session in the middle of it all when we were there.  St George Leagues Club has ample parking. The Cantonese-styled cuisine there may hark back to old fashioned in one opinion, but they still do a relatively good outcome in several standard dishes.  For my group, Wills had ordered well balanced combinations in the main dishes of savoury, sweet, sour and hot.  The lazy Susan had kept swivelling frantically at times.  The servings from the Crown Dragon were wholesome.

A Chinese Singaporean original but now adopted by Chinese restaurants from Frisco to Auckland - the deep fried battered ice cream.  The wine we had that night was McGuigan's.

The Lagoon, Stuart Park, North Wollongong, NSW

The Lagoon Restaurant has a name befitting its location, ambiance and cuisine. Tucked away in a corner of Stuart Park, with its own dedicated car park and surrounding stroll grounds, the open glass window panels of most of its surrounding wall tempt any diner to panoramic views of the Tasman Sea, a perfect horizon with real deep blue ocean water and even the apparently stuck long container ships waiting for their turn to unload cargo into Port Kembla, although a decent distance away from it all.
On a recent visit in the so-called winter of the Illawarra region, it looked and felt like a summer's day in London.  We were there early for lunch, although the crowds packed the place in especially after 1pm.

The menu was extensive, primarily concentrating on seafood, not just sourced from the NSW South Coast but also from other parts of Australia.  My group of three pondered over the cold and cooked platters - these offered  a sampling of crustacean sea produce like Balmain Bugs, fish grills and prawns.
Then there were the farm and ocean  or surf and turf combinations which provided both beef or lamb cuts with a smaller serve of seafood. We chose the third option, all seafood produce but at least offering two choices on one plate. I was more than happy with my selection of John Dory with scampi from the Indian Ocean off Western Australian state.  One of my fellow lunchers chose king prawns with barramundi, always a reliable tasty sample of what it means to partake in Australian seafood. We did observe a young man at a neighbouring table with a feast inspiring sizable dish of lobster and crab, whilst his young female companion had a more modest dish.

The Lagoon is a civilised place with white table cloths, well dressed and trained wait staff and provides a mood of being in a well organised function.   Even the garlic bread was especially aromatic that day.
There are strong hints and touches of Mediterranean influences in the dishes available, especially in the gravies and sauces blended into most of the seafood.  Sauces can be a tricky part, for I recall on an earlier visit, how my mate and I found that the rather brash and heavy stuff given to us did spoil the overall charm of the seafood platter.  This time around there was no such discouragement.

We had chardonnay on our table in the middle of the hall, from which we could observe proceedings like birthday parties, the spectrum of well made dishes arranged carefully and spectacularly on the main counter near the bar and the energy of a rather elegant and smiling tall young man who paid attention to detail and assured the fullness of our wine glasses.

The fine dining continued with our summery option of three gelato flavours served in a boat like contraption.   Mango, raspberry and more.  The female staff were nice enough to change cold for hot espresso. The afternoon wore on but not the spirit and satisfaction at our table.  Kangaroo was available and fresh oysters captivated as entree. Apart from the food, I reckon there was also another positive X factor that day at this fine dining venue which can lower its formality to relax every visitor. And then Wollongong City centre beckoned as we left, going past the big live aquarium tanks, into a balmy 22 degrees Celsius outside.