Surry Hills - Sydney, NSW

Surry Hills lies over sloping topography just outside the Chinatown, Paddington and Redfern districts of the southern side of Sydney CBD.  Just as young Aussies first have overseas stints in Bali or Phuket, Surry Hills is one of those lifestyle hubs that attract  twenty somethings from outside the city when they need to relocate because of a job, love, music or commuting necessity.

The suburb offers heritage and old terrace constructions, innovative concept cafes and restaurants, plus the accessibility to a night lifestyle.

There is, as usual, a price for all this - higher rents, not suburban building conditions, lack of street parking and a Big Smoke atmosphere.  The other side of the coin can balance out any perceived disadvantages for the resident - lanes with character, some greenery away from the George Street profile, choice of transport, like-minded networks and proximity of big city events and venues.

Designer and retro clothing, fabrics, furniture and collectibles definitely add to the tone from the retail outlets. At the same time, this chic and why not perspective echo in the wardrobe of its residents.

There are markets on the first Saturday of each month on the Shannon Reserve.  Pets are more than welcome and pooches feature prominently in the Surry Hills Festival held at Prince Alfred Park on the last weekend of each October.

There is  a melange of various cultures, food and lifestyles as echoing the relative liberty of the Australian demographic, legislative and social landscape.  If Sydney is seen as cosmopolitan and varied by the world, then Surry Hills is a good representation of this image and reality.

The cycling sub culture is strong as well as the recycling mindset.  Surry Hill denizens may not exude the blonde surfer look one anticipates at nearby Bondi, but they do go out and head for the sun and water on summery days.  The importance of the pub gathering is accentuated when people live in smaller spaces and that means the penchant to go out for good, emerging and radical gigs.

Would outsiders view Surry Hills as having a component of transients - professional, artistic or migrant - as opposed to the core group that truly call the precinct home? The place is steeped in history, that bordered by Elizabeth, , Cleveland, South Dowling, Chalmers and Oxford Streets.

Foveaux Street is named in honour of Joseph, who received a land grant and who named the place after Surrey in the UK.  Originally an essentially working class suburb focusing on the rag trade, Surry Hills would witness the gentrification of its residents before changes to the current population mix.

A fascinating feature of the Surry Hills area for many years was the presence and operation of the steam trams until 1961.  Most of the architecture today still remains Victorian.  The number of well established churches is also above average for a Sydney suburb.

Eating experiences of note can be found at Four Ate Five ( recommended are the juices, pulled pork sandwiches and coffee);  Spice I Am ( basil and garlic deep fried fish, papaya salads and the pad thai stir fry noodles are must trys); the Cricketers Arms Hotel ( offering a mix of informal Mexican and modern Aussie fare); and the Black Penny along Bourke Street (for cocktails).

Everyone else seems to running towards Porteno, Madam Nhu's, Marque, Longrain and Tio's.  A gem may be discovered at the Bangbang for an interpretation of UK food at reasonable prices, a cosy atmosphere and something like lightly crumbed fish fillet doused with aioli on sourdough, or the Wagyu beef burger.

Window shoppers may want to spend time in Somedays for Swedish design clothes, the Spring Court for shoes, the Zoo Emporium, Holy Kitsch!, Pop Shop, Paper2 and Music Film Books.

Is Surry Hills an oasis in the modern dry landscape of the Big Smoke of Sydney?  It houses the Australian headquarters of Readers Digest Publications and has a scattering of business offices, but it also offers couples and families a semblance of true suburban routine and feel.  We walked around the park and surprisingly found young families. So Surry Hills is not just occupied by the perceived stereotypes of DINKS, SINKS and single party goer types.  Trees are allowed to grow old. It may serve as the prototype of a model suburb which has charisma and character despite being so near to central city opportunities and challenges.

Rum Fire Cafe and Bar, Moore Park - Sydney CBD

What attracted me first to Rumfire is the extent of its baguettes.  Okay, instead of turkish, naan wraps or bread rolls, fresh ingredients, reliable combinations and yummy dressing all are used to provide a different kind of bite. The menu can be seen as eclectic - Mediterranean, modern Australian, fusion trendy and yet all served with a home feel.   You can just have coffee, or choose a spread - it is all dependent on whom you are with, where you are going next and where you have just come from.

It is casual, it is relaxing in the subdued surroundings and yet we can watch passer-bys and the goings-on on the curved pedestrian lane outside.   The place loads itself up as breakfast, brunch, teatime and dinner venues.  It can be modern, it can be retro, it can be your suburban cafe.  The  reality however is  that no one actually resides in this hub.  Visitors have dropped by in Moore Park for a reason - and dining can be secondary, or why not the main purpose?  Whatever the circumstance, Rumfire offers a refuge - for a date, for a night out, for a family outing or for an occasion to catch up with mates.

Moore Park - Sydney, NSW

Moore Park has interesting neighbours - the Sydney Cricket and Sports grounds and is part of the Centennial Park Trust grounds.

It used to house working movie studios, but today remains to attract visitors to its sporting grounds and Entertainment Quarter  which concentrates on its cinema, food, drinking and live performance outlets.  Moore Park shares the Centennial space with Queens and Centennial Parks.

It also hosted for many years the Royal Sydney Easter Show and is the final point (at Hordern Pavilion) for the annual gay and lesbian Mardi Gras Parade. Accessible not by train but only by road, it is also familiar to many sports fans in NRL and more.

The south-western corner of Moore Park had a home maker Supa Centre built on the site of the old tram depot.  Anyone driving along Anzac parade and South Dowling Street will note the extensive golf course grounds as well.  The Byron Kennedy Hall hosts warehouse sales and food plus wine events for the public.  Kids can look forward to Skater HQ functions in April.

Moore Park was the site of Sydney's first zoo and named in honour of one of its mayors, Charles Moore, who was in office for three years from 1867.  A light rail system has been planned for construction, passing by Moore Park, on the way to Kensington and Randwick.

I recall visiting the Titanic replica inside a theme park that used to draw the crowds at Fox Studios.  This has disappeared but one can still enjoy the celluloid screen at the Paris Cinema, with easy multi-level vehicle parking under cover.  Moore Park thrives on imagination, the mysterious and the delightful.  I do hope the City Council continue to utilise this centrally located  area to reflect on the spirit of essential Sydney.

Charlie Black - Manuka, Canberra

The bar where it counts - refreshingly different.

Uniquely hidden away in a corner, beside the cinema in Manuka, across the road from apparently where the main action is, lies a lifestyle pub that tries to be different. Sure, there are the wooden tables outdoors that seem to herald another common pub, but once we get inside, the walls are adorned, different types of seating are offered and then there is the bar counter. With a marble top, staffed by twenty something of age staff and decorated in a way that no one can miss, I reckon this counter is meant to be the centre of attention. Are we in South America? The side murals portray sultry dark skinned women, the lighting is low and there are a few sports screens -  was trying hard to appreciate and understand the common thread of a theme going around the various corners of the venue, some lit, others darkened.May be Charlie Black's wants to surprise - and then makes us relax in the unusual.

Lamb cutlets with cous cous and mash.




My eye caught the availability of mango flavoured cider on tap, a delightful option. Canberra is surrounded by diary and farm country and I subconsciously wanted to try some dish from the land. Oh yes, in true blue Aussie tradition, it had to be lamb.  Pub style, the buzzer whizzed loudly on the table and the food went out through a window from the kitchen.  There was laughter and sounds of merriment from the nearby tables.  It was only early evening and it was not that cold for Canberra standards. I found the cous cous well made, with a Moroccan flavour, to accompany the juicy lamb cutlets.  I am told that Charlie Black's specialise in tapas and burgers, with their sweet potato chips a hit any time of day or night.  Finally I connected the wall murals with the food - Mexican, casual and with things like peppers, calamari and pear with walnut salad.  It was easy then to move on to the several types of Margaritas served - passionfruit, pineapple or mango - or the coladas.

Lonsdale Street Roasters - Braddon, Canberra

It is easy to locate in Braddon. If you are driving along Northbourne Avenue, the main thoroughfare in
and out of Canberra, turn into either Elouera or Cooyong Streets and head for Lonsdale Street. The section that also boasts the Elk and the Pea also hosts an unassuming, Melbourne styled cafe that drew in the crowds as early as 8am on a holiday Easter Monday. The relatively nippy air may have enhanced the flavour  and aroma of the brew but I reckon it is the easy and informal atmosphere created here as well that proves irresistible. The bricks remain neglected and  the seats are quickly occupied but nobody is bothered about such things, as all are intent to sip  and enjoy not just coffee, but to soak in the experience.

Cyclists, early morning risers, women's groups, couples, twenty somethings - they all gathered and waited patiently in front of the sole window counter.  The menu is simple enough with not too many choices but it is the coffee packs that stand out calling us to take them home! Staff stand whilst they work, whether the baristas or those handling the food. I could sense this is an institution. The other icon of Canberra coffee I could think of at 11 degrees Celsius this morning was the Ona from Manuka.

The coffee provides different sensations from Campos in Sydney, Ka-Fe in Wollongong or those found along Lygon Street in Carlton, Melbourne.  My cup is served after I hear my name called out and a smiling and cheerful young lady brings it over. There is no internal seating, everyone is placed  all over the wide pavement area. What happens when it rains?  I chose the panini with leg ham, mozzarella cheese and mustard (photo below), which was sufficiently light to provide a contrast with the thick, creamy and pleasantly presented cuppa in front of me.

The choc topping over my cappuccino takes my breath away - and then I await for more.  I forget about the cares of the world and realise that this is one moment I work for. I am not going to be distracted about this brew creation. My first impressions are that this is a heavy blend and yet so tasty on the palate.  There is little bitterness and more full gulps of a nutty undertone.  Just what I prefer! A good looking woman in the queue has a toy dog and boyfriend accompanying her.  The customers are all dressed up against the morning cold but the cafe staff seem to be geared for perpetual summer.