National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne

Straits of Malacca - Melbourne CBD

Hot tea latte on a wooden table.

Please note that this restaurant has since closed from time of writing of this blog post.


With a wall mural literally a photographic snapshot of a Malacca heritage institution and a location in busy Swanston Street, I reckoned this must be a mecca for university students form Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore.  It lies within the radius of the university precinct, also overlapping with tourist walkabouts and office workers looking for quick and easy snacks or meals.  It provides low sitting tables and easy, unassuming food presumably inspired by the cultural, trade and migration confluence that is, and was, Malacca.  Malacca, which once had an empire in South-east Asia and controlled the trade and shipping routes between East and West, has now been recognised as a UNESCO heritage site.

But that is just history.   The reality is that the Straits of Malacca restaurant offers their version of street food and strikingly simple lunch combination menus, with a food dish of your choice and a drink, usually the favourite teh tarik.  We chose the bee hoon siam and ayam masak merah (red coloured spice paste cooked chicken) to test out the place.  My Kuala Lumpur mate and I wondered if the food had been toned down to suit mainstream tastes or the increasing China market.  They were okay for a mid afternoon snack but we did indeed expect more. A Sydney mate later said, when listening of my encounters of Malaysian styled food in Melbourne CBD, that he heard that the good stuff in this cuisine had moved to the Melbourne suburbs, unlike not long ago.

Bee Hoon Siam, or at least the southern Malaysian Peninsular version of this dish. I did not find the vermicelli
chili hot but it was okay.

I noticed a particularly good serving of roti canai and curry on another table.  We heard much chatter in Mandarin and Cantonese. We sensed the presence of regular and repeat customers, people who need not even look into the menu and ordered their fav dish immediately upon sitting down. The customers want their food reliable, consistent and accessible.  The staff were friendly and the place, once opened, welcomes people any time until they close at night.  Sitting inside, you could look out at the goings-on on the main street, with trams, strollers and other traffic providing both the backdrop and activity that epitomises Melbourne itself.

The Ayam Masak Merah was obviously under, or maybe I hoped for more kick in the taste

When one badges a restaurant with associations of Malacca, I sort of half expected unique delicacies from this long established  port city.  The Straits Indians and Chinese of Malacca left indelible imprints, together with the Eurasian Portuguese community, the Dutch and the British.  I expected opportunities to savour Devil's Chicken,  satay celup and braised mutton, for example, but they were simply not there.  Haha, I reckon I was expecting too much.  Instead it was another outlet offering the usual street food menu from Malaysia - the Hainan chicken rice, the curry laksa, the fish curry and stir fried noodles.

Ippudo - Sydney CBD

The promise of an enriching experience, preceded by reputation and expectation

I was given a choice of three possibilities for lunch, but we were already on level 5 of Westfield at Sydney's Pitt Street Mall, so for convenience I proposed heading towards the Ippudo, or the One-Wind Hall. This business started in Fukuoka in southern Japan, from which once I boarded a flight to Seoul, after thoroughly enjoying a few days going around the small but lovely island  of Kyushu. It's ramen, ramen, ramen from this chain which has established their evolving and continuing good name even before it reached Australia. So I did have a certain level of curiosity as we stepped in, got seats at a shared canteen styled table and was immediately attended by active staff.

The menu was simple enough to quickly realise they used the base portion for a start and then you as customer have the options to add the extra stuff, usually at AUD 2 for each layer added. More people flooded the relatively large hall of more than three shop fronts after we had been seated.  Curiously, every so often, the staff would collectively give a vocal and coordinated roar, raising the spirits of everyone working and eating in the restaurant.  The Ippudo has an open concept kitchen and also a viable bar.  The atmosphere seemed authentic and the resulting noise  inside the place was more than outside on the Level 5 Food Court.  Noise that usually one associates with yum cha joints.

Shiromaru or Akamaru ramen?  These Hakata stykled noodles are served with the tonkatsu (pork cutlet) broth spiced up with miso, garlic, seaweed and mushroom slices. It may not matter, for both has promise. Both of us thought the ramen served was like al dente, when compared to many of its competitors scattered across Sydney's Chinatown, World Square and lower Pitt Street.  This is serious growing up comfort and soul food for the Japanese - and one of the highest order. The state of ramen in the home country was not always like today and many efforts had been made to lift the quality of an almost national living treasure. I recall watching the movie "Tampopo" on SBS TV here - that exemplified the cultural love for this iconic dish.  As with any noodle dish across the Asia-Pacific, however, the crunch comes to the quality of the stock.  The Ippudo experience first migrated to New York and now its dishes can be found eaten by the discerning many in Hong Kong, Singapore, Seoul and Taipei.

My first slurp of my chosen first time with Ippudo can be described as invigorating. With my Akamaru ( or Red Bowl), after swirling the condiment thoroughly into the soup and swishing the ramen around from bottoms up, the ensuing flavours rose up to even more potential. Then came the first swoosh for my palate - a thicker soup sensation than I anticipated, beautifully accompanied by the texture, relative hardness and flavour of the thin noodles themselves.  With such sensations, I looked at the tender slices of the pork belly which I added as an option - and knew I had made the right choice.  Taking ramen is a personal and stylish ritual in the heart of Japanese thinking and practice.

We recognised the term "chashu" as relating to "char siew" the Cantonese term for barbecued lean pork with a red border in Chinese outlets. There are choices of flavoured versus basic eggs to add as options.  There are also lamb and salmon creations, pork buns, shrimp buns, pork mixed tofu bakuretsu, Camembert tempura, pan fried dumplings and pickled stuff.  Some may find the asked for prices somewhat over the top, but I suggest viewing quality with corresponding pricing.  You observe many white or red bowls, synchronising to shiro and aka.  And then there's dessert which includes variations on the themes of lamingtons, panna cotta, chocolate, sorbet and ice cream.

Clarence Street, Sydney CBD, NSW

Clarence is an inner street of Sydney's Wynyard precinct bordering the iconic Harbour Bridge, primary business and banking district, Town Hall area shopping and the Circular Quay walks.  It is lined with wholesome and solid buildings with heritage architecture and parallels the main thoroughfare of George Street.  Often used by office workers and shoppers, tourists are mainly oblivious to this part of Sydney town, unless they venture form the obvious.  Clarence provides a different atmosphere when compared with the clutter of Chinatown in CBD south, the cool abandon of Hyde Park or the shopping frenzy around the Putt Street Mall.  It had its origins from another era, another place, that of the hat and necktie fraternity before and after the Pacific War, that close to the big end of town in  banking, business and evening elegance.   Above, a photo taken of the front of the Clarence Street Cyclery.

The Bar Tartine is the site of the Bistro Papillon, which offers French cuisine under the direction and creativity of Chef Ludovic Geyer.  With only 35 tables, it does open for both lunch and dinner and is highly recommended.

The sights and sounds of Clarence can be mainly in daytime. As the shadows of high rises cast a late afternoon shadow on winter days in the middle of the year, the road is often perceived in cool shades, with openings to some darker alleys, parking options and surprisingly delightful food and drink outlets. The foodie scene is geared towards early morning crowds spewing out of buses and trains at both Wynyard and Town Hall precincts.  They also do have a touch of catering for those seeking a niche and quiet refuge in small bars and cafes.  Chalkboards to list menus and barista lined cafes sprout like umbrellas on a rainy day.  Others view Clarence as a transition between major roads in the city centre, rather than it having  and holding its won character.  In this respect, it can be acknowledged that most people are on the way somewhere when walking along Clarence Street.  Yet others know of some delights along this road - P J O Briens' Irish Pub, the Hotel CBD,  the Bistro Papillon, The Bavarian Beer cafe, the Baxter Inn and the Arras Restaurant (which occupies the now defunct Becasse).

An illustrative breakfast and lunch menu at a cafe along Clarence.

Grandma's Bar occupies a previously abandoned toy shop.  The DeVine Food and Wine, at the corner where Clarence intersects with Market, offers three meals on weekdays and dinner on Saturday evenings.   It specialises in seafood tapas, artisan cured meats, Italian inspired pastas and risotto plus grilled meats and fish.  Japanese food lovers have the Kabuki Shoroku Seafood restaurant to check out, whilst the Machiavelli Ristorante caters to Italian cuisine.

Entrance to the DeVine Food and Wine from the Clarence Street side.

Street Food - Sydney

Fancying some goat satay at Ayam Goreng 99 in Sydney, located along Kingsford's Anzac Parade near the campus of UNSW?  Some of the best, unusual and rewarding finds in street food can be found in the outer suburbs surrounding Australian capital cities. These may evolve around where immigrant ethnic groups from around the world have laid anchor in the past fifty years and grown deep roots in their new land, creating distinct hubs of cultures, cuisine and beliefs which can be so different from mainstream society and yet enriching it.  A venture out into distinct hubs of Vietnamese, Turkish, Italian, Portuguese, Chinese, Korean, Spanish, Greek, Latin American, Thai and Indian influences, for example, can open both our mindsets and palates.  Many maintain their authentic flavours, and yet delights can be found by innovative fusion in styles of cooking.

Yet in city centres, such diversity can still be sampled along various street corners and parts. Recently I was able to savour burramundi grill bought from a cashier of Greek background at the Sydney Fish Markets.  This was followed  by sipping  fresh coconut juice from a Thai food fair stall at the nearby Darling Harbour.  More illustrations and experiences follow.

The traditional way of dealing with seafood (photo above) is to coat them in batter and deep fry them.
These are then accompanied with a fresh salad mix and some Tartar sauce.  These continue to be available in many venues, along the coast, in suburban clubs and at busy street corners.  They now face competition for the dollar from a variety of choices that came together with multicultural immigration.

Above, the goat satay in contrast to the bento box  below featuring the unagi or eel, served with miso soup,  a cabbage salad mix, sashimi  with a lemon slice, glutinous rice and more.

An omelette of turkey is offered with chips and salad in the picture above, with the grilled barramundi below. Much of street food is also found in weekend fairs, which allow walking around the stalls before deciding on what to munch, sample or get more of.  Most street food is prepared fresh and piping hot but some are prepared much earlier for practical purposes.  One common theme is their use of mainly local ingredients and produce, unless the dish specifications dictate otherwise. Sauces and gravies at times include flavours of items not easily found in Australia and this can add to the cost and complexity of cooking such dishes.

The fast food underlying much of street food can be varied as the roll inspired by sourdough possibilities and the grilled pork chop topped up by a sunny side up omelette from Vietnamese cafes and restaurants.  The best options for Sydney street food can be in the Chinatown area, office precinct cafes, residential hubs like Surry Hills, Ashfield and Bankstown, coastal hang outs like Manly and Cronulla Beaches and so called ethnic enclaves like Cabramatta, Campsie, Petersham, Haberfield and Parramatta.

My top choices of street food in greater Sydney are those that do not modify for mainstream consumption but remain steadfast to be authentic to the countries of origin.   These can be fish and chips still served on newspapers. Or the coconut cream rich curry laksa. Others that come to my mind are the thin crust pizza or tandoori chicken that are baked in clay ovens.  Pies that still have that creamy and appetising kick on a winter's morning. I must not omit grilled meats served on skewers and crisp vegetables packed inside thin paper-like wraps.  And of course, the good old burger, a stick of baguette, gelato on a cone and hot soup dumplings.