Ha Noi's Old Quarter

The streets and lanes are narrow, crowded and cluttered. The precinct oozes with every expectation and stereotype a visitor would expect from an Asian metropolis that bustles with trade, street affairs and people. One has to be reminded that this city of Ha Noi is the capital of a Communist state, but the business penchant and practice that is so evident in the Old Quarter comes from long traditions and establishments. Families actually live above their shops and every day a vibrant neighbourhood system, that intertwines livelihoods and strong community links, provides meaning and continuity to every resident.  The street names each and every time include the Vietnamese  word "Hang", which just means merchandise. I saw street plates with names like Pho Hang Buom, Pho Hang Chiew and Pho Hang Mam - Pho referring to a street.

Hang Bac is Silver Street, Hang Gai is Silk Street and Hang Tre is the Bamboo Street. In contemporary Ha Noi, some of these streets do now offer produce and products that vary from the original names. Still, Hang Huong, or Incense Street,has the lingering aromatic sweetness of joss sticks. To me, the Old Quarter is the original super market or department store and can have hidden delights if one takes the time to explore, listen and observe.  The Cha Ca La Vong, an eatery which specialises in a marinaded monkfish dish, has been operating for more than a hundred years, despite the change in political leaders, modernity and populations.  Fermented rice, saffron and galangal is mixed with the ever popular fish sauce to make this marinade.

Sailmakers Street or Hang Buom  is now laden with candies, sweet meats, freshly ground coffee and imported alcohol like brandies and whiskies.  Nothing beats getting the grassroots feel when visiting Ha Noi as staying in the Old Quarter.  Its central location and easy walking access to other interesting parts of the city centre (except for those around the West Lake) make it a magnet for tourists young and old. Perhaps the better way is to adapt to and learn crossing the roads in Vietnam first in Ha Noi rather than on the wider roads of Ho Chi Minh City in the country's south.

People rise early in the Old Quarter. Residing in a hotel there, I could hear the rising crescendo of activity, conversation and traffic as early as 6 am. Interesting items of note are roasted sour pork hash, pottery, meat jerky, grilled cuttlefish and jewellery. A few members of my group and I took an evening cyclo ride past shops and other fascinating retail outlets.  Above, a view from the upstairs of a well known coffee joint and below, heritage styled furniture grace guest accommodation. Pop up markets are set up after sunset.  The evening before I flew out of Vietnam, I had the opportunity to try the pho, the rice noodle soup that originates from Ha Noi.

The Dong Xuan Market is the oldest institution of its kind in Ha Noi. The Bach Ma Temple has a unique and magical White Horse.  Artisans have settled in this Old Quarter since the 11th century when a national celebrity Ly Thai To built his political capital here, the cherished Thang Long (Or Rising Dragon).  Today it is worth staying in or visiting the many tubular designed houses or stop by the Memorial House Museum, a tribute to merchant life of the past.  There were 36 original gates in this precinct, but only one remains intact today - the Quan Chong, or the Gate of the Commander of the Regiment.   Today the Old Quarter is also known locally as the 36 Streets, although others opine that the number 36 refers actually to the number of trade or craft guilds once having businesses in this area.  An interesting aspect of this historical area is that there used to be porridge sellers providing food to candidates who came from all over the country to sit for the imperial examinations nearby.

Sydney CBD - Practical Eats

Charcoal grilled chicken ala Vietnam with tomato flavoured rice, veg and dipping sauce.  (The Naughty Chef, Hunter Connection, Wynyard precinct)

Penang-inspired char koay teow, the Malaysian cousin of pad thai and laden with stir-fried egg, bean sprouts, wok heat , prawns off the shell, crunchy shallots and chopped Chinese chives.  (Ipoh onYork, near the junction of King and York Streets, Town Hall precinct)

Cantonese inspired Ipoh Hor fan, with steamed chicken on the skin, served with rice noodle soup, plenty of bean sprouts, garnishing, soy sauce, garlic and chili pastes.  (Sayong Curry and Laksa Malaysian, Woolworths Food Court, basement at Woolworths Town Hall)

A nasi lemak combination set, with lusciuos looking chicken curry, hard boiled eggs, deep fried anchovies, sambal condiments, Lebanese cucumber slices, curried potatoes and coconut milk flavoured steamed rice.
(Ipoh onYork, near the junction of King and York Streets, Town Hall precinct)

Summer - Balgownie Blooms

Flowers are what you hope and work consistently at for results - a momentary celebration to mark an occasion when one moves on to a different dimension, one decidedly better, one that embeds the future and which liberates you from the chains of the past.

We pay attention to details, use patient logic to navigate our path and strive to fuel our passion - and at times we are rewarded with a perfect and hallmark moment that makes it all worthwhile.

Delicate is the moment, aroma is what enhances our senses when
our adequate use of judgement flows into nuances of gratitude and beauty.

We occasionally clear the cobwebs in the garden of our minds, so as to allow more room for 

the growth of the right thing to do in our hearts.

During the festive season, ensure you have a quiet moment in time to reflect the past, affirm the present and embrace the future. Never take things for granted, do not be swamped by diversions and prepare for even better times ahead. Listen with an open mind, think with a generous  spirit and enjoy any bird song that comes your way. People are what matters and family is unconditional. Look for the glimmer of light yourself.

Chedi Thai, Newtown, Sydney

The Chedi Thai Restaurant is located at at the western end of King Street in the inner Sydney city suburb of Newtown, not far from the junction of King and Messinden  Streets.  It is close to the Sydney University campus cohort. Ely and Ray organised a lunch there on a recent Saturday when the Newtown markets were held. The diverse and interesting suburb of Newtown is 150 years old.  Here are my impressions of the several dishes we tried from a cuisine which I reckoned is more southern than northern Thai, more Phuket and Hatyai than Chiangmai or Bangkok.  It is a spacious restaurant, in contrast to several Thai food venues in the Chinatown precinct of Sydney CBD.

My top choice goes to the barramundi filleted pieces topped by a green mango salad (photo above) - the flavours mix and complement each other readily and remind one of sitting on the beach facing the Andaman Sea, immersing in the fresh seafood sensations and surrounded by the aromas of tropical fruits, herbs and vegetables.

Crispy pork with chili and basil - this was my most tasty dish that afternoon, with a crunchiness and bite of chili heat that offers the best of both southern Chinese and authentic Thai essentials. The various garnishing items add an extra dimension to the overall fusion sensation.

Fresh coconut juice served in a natural and organic container - the coconut itself. Coconut sizes can vary, although when plucked, it is an oval shaped fruit, light green outside and with a white edible layer inside. Coconuts are indispensable to many cultures and communities and offer use to human society with every major and little bit of itself.  Coconut juice can be refreshing on a hot summer's day and is preferably drunk without any added sugar or other ingredient.

The red curry combining roast duck slices with longans, tomato cuts, fish sauce, egg plants, pineapple cubes and coconut cream (picture above) also stood out. The Thai menu identifies this as the Kaeng Ped Pett Yang and uses different spice mixes from the green option ( tumeric and galengal being the differentiators).
Very different from the spicy duck curry of Kerala in southern India, the Thai version is lighter, more creamy and has roasted duck ready before the cooking for this dish begins.

Prawns with garnish sitting on top and wrapped in leaves above, encapsulates the best of cuisine from Thailand. Produce from both the land and seas, from the gardens and combined in clever ways to create new tastes and results, are utilised to whet the appetite and served in various forms of starters, desserts, curries  and mains.  The entree shown above echoes some of the  traditional dishes found as well in Straits Chinese, Burmese, Malay and Indonesian cooking variations.

Chedi also provides a choice of the brown version of jasmine rice, which is a necessary accompaniment to the dishes mentioned above. Vegetarians may want to try the savoury pumpkin and egg dish offered by Chedi.   We went to the opening along Newtown's King Street of a yogurt place, so we did not proceed to after meal sweeteners at Chedi.  In the dessert category, I did note that they also offer black sticky rice served with a dash of coconut cream and deep fried banana fritters with honey glaze and ice cream dollops.

Atmosphere:  Spacious and light setting.
Location: Suburban and trendy.
Taste: Good for specific dishes.
People Engagement:  Above expectations.
Service:  Friendly and efficient.
Best Dish Experienced:  Barramundi fillets with green mango salad.
Best Time to Visit: Lunch time.
Would I Return? Yes.

Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel - Ha Noi, Vietnam

The continuing hype is that Charlie Chaplin and Brad Pitt brought their beloved wives here, but it is true. The reality is an elegant and inspiring step back into the colonial past - in architecture, ambiance and arresting captivation. The experience is one of refined service, spacious environs and a touch of class.  There is an airiness in here that sets it definitely apart from the other parts of Ha Noi.  French can be heard spoken  in several conversations, as you sit on the lobby's Euro furniture, soaking in both the historical and present day ambiance or just waiting for your friends who are residing in the Metropole Hotel.
Above, noodles served in fine bone china complementing the the green house surroundings of the tea room at the Spices Garden, garnished by  a variety of local musts - basil leaves, chili cuts,  capsicum, onion slices and chicken.  Mrs Nguyen Thanh Van is currently the head chef presiding over three kitchens - and also serving the Angelina Restaurant & lounge, together with the Le Beaulieu Restaurant.

The underlying and over flowing theme is in white (pictures above and below), whether you view the rooms, with balconies and facade green window louvres, from outside, or when you look up from a dining or drinking table.  The Metropole has existed since 1901 and witnessed the various significant events and transitions in Vietnamese history of the 20th century.  Located in the Hoan Kiem District of the city centre, it is only a walk away from the Opera House and the Government Guest House (formerly the official residence of the colonial French Governor).

Well placed ceiling fans, exquisite touches of local pottery, cantilevered wooden windows, silk fabric cushions, dark wood paneling and French styled furniture (photo above) all help to build up a snug and comfortable feel even in the lobby itself.  Wrought iron is embellished to create a contrast with the comfortable soft hues and provide assurances  of stability and strength.  Ecological designed materials are used in the guest rooms, villas or suites, which stand out graced with lush curtains, pillow accessories and chateau-like colours.

There are lush green lawns maintained in the inner courtyards of the hotel. With 22 suites and 364 rooms, three separate bars, an outdoor heated pool and a rooftop garden, it does offer many choices.
Romance and business seem to be the two key selling points of the Metropole, in that they offer to guests the high standards required by both.  The buildings have not always been  in such a glorious state, having been left run down between 1954 and 1986, but now the Grand Old Dame is back in all its glory.

The La Terrasse Du Metropole (photo below) suits cool evenings and Parisian-inspired preferences for easy and informal meet ups. My own experience of eating at the Spice Gardens is one of quick and friendly service, all wrapped in a professionally trained manner and one that offers a realm of comfort and relaxation.

Vladimir Putin, actors like Noel Coward and Michael Caine and a host of writers, including Graham Greene and W. Somerset Maugham have graced this unique institution.  There can be comparisons with the Oriental in Bangkok, the Raffles in Singapore and the Eastern & Oriental in Penang, but the Metropole in Ha Noi to me is a class apart.