Ha Long Bay, Vietnam - The Village

With around three thousand limestone monolithic isles, Ha Long Bay has a charm and scenic splendour of its own.   Nestled below the southern Chinese coasts and Hainan Island, it is a maritime  ecosystem that has caves, grottoes and hidden lakes in islands; displays very few beaches; offers various fascinating shapes in the landscape akin to elephants, cockerels and more; harbours wildlife like monkeys, lizards, bantam birds and antelopes on limited landed areas; and holds a special place in Vietnamese legend relating to benevolent  dragons. It is also a declared UNESCO world heritage site.   Photo above shows our personalised boat paddler taking Matt and me around the bay.

A community of fisher villagers call this place home, making their livelihood on aquaculture and the natural resource pools of mollusks and fishes that live in the bay.  Residents live a transient yet permanent life style, with houses literally floating on the water, or on boats that are moored above calm and placid waters on the evening we visited.  I  did wonder what does it feel and look like on a stormy night.  On a cloudy and hazy twilight in November, going round a particular village, we were paddled by strong young women on boats that sat a maximum of four persons - we observed it was a like a self-contained suburb, with the goings-on of human life, family activities, goods transported and food cooking from kitchens.  Self- managed generators are used for night lighting.  The thought that crossed my mind was also, did they have strong Internet wireless, effective sanitation systems, herbal gardens and television broadcasts?  The very things that  I have taken for granted.

The boats look Chinese in design  but carry the Vietnam flag (picture above) in a region of the South China Sea that has witnessed conflict between the national neighbours.   Are there unknown huge reserves of other natural resources in these waters?   I noticed an absence of bird life on my visit. In times of war, these isles must have been a natural beacon for those trying to escape military encounters.

Research has shown that these places have been occupied as far back as eighteen thousand years ago, although the contemporary villages we saw dates back from the beginning of the 19th century.  How do such villagers handle the challenges of the 21st century - acting to mitigate pollution, treating industrial and domestic waste, managing the arrival of more tourists and sustaining a livelihood?  There are around 1700 individuals living here, mostly in tight knit families.  Below, Mr Kien, the leader of our tour, smiles to the camera as he sits with residents on a floating pontoon.

Sunset on  Ha Long Bay (above) brought out the best of artistic and natural landscapes, one that evoked the heritage styles of Chinese and Vietnamese paintings and poetry.  Below, tourists spewing out from various cruise ships make a bee line on small flat wooden boats to authentic villages which exist not for tours, but for themselves, for now. However, economics have encouraged the emergence of vendor boats with rowers, usually women, who offer refreshments and local souvenirs to passengers on cruise ships that park over night or sail by for day excursions.

Mangrove swamps and sea grass clumps dominate the interface between land and water in Ha Long.

Logically there may be no form of land ownership for the bay's four main villages.  Residents, including youngsters and children, are expert at casting nets, navigating boats and processing sea produce.  Visiting Ha Long Bay, I am reminded to compare with the Andaman Sea near Phuket in Thailand - there, limestone drip creation processes and geological upheavals over thousands  of years  have also created a similar scenery over the waters, articulated the geographical concepts of stalagmites and stalactites and attracted both foreign and domestic tourists over so many years. 

The romance of the place for me began with a specific James Bond movie, The Man with The Golden Gun.  I recall a film episode where Bond himself flew in a plane over what was supposed to be Ha Long Bay, but in reality it was substituted with footage of the Andaman Sea near Phuket.  Norwegians can perhaps share familiarities with Lofeten but in a different climate.

Lunar New Year Planner - Suggestions for the Reunion Dinner

The next Lunar New Year, that under the sign of the Snake, begins on 10 February 2013. It is occasion for the extended family to gather on the eve and take dinner together.  Here are some ideas for table servings to complement such gatherings. Above, blueberries and strawberries form a delightful and eye-catching combination.  Below, slices of the chu chu kueh or the kueh bingka, sitting beautifully on a round plate - made of tapioca flour, firmed with coconut milk and added with egg, sugar and essence of the pandanus leaf, this traditional item echoes a link with tradition and uniqueness with societies in South-east Asia.

Two essential sauces in Asian related cooking and serving, the pounded or blended fresh chilies (left in picture above) and the hoi sin sauce (right on top).  Both of them are compulsory for diners when eating the poh pniah rolls, originally from Fujian in China. The sauces are spread on to your warp skins before filling them up with cooked or fresh ingredients and then parceling all up for a zesty bite.

Oven roasted pork, with crackle and kick, must be cut up carefully to bite-sized portions to accompany noodles or rice, or eaten by themselves.  Pork signifies plenty and wealth, hence the popularity of roasted suckling pigs in many cultures like Spain, Germany, Thailand, Vietnam and China.

Tamarind flavoured prawns are deep fried on the shell and are a must for gracing festive occasions in most of Asia. (above)  Below, a serving of the kapitan chicken with steamed rice, a curry unique to Medan, Malacca, Penang and Singapore.  This version of curry has strong influences from Thailand, Indonesia and the Malayan peninsular itself, in that galangal, kaffir lime leaves, tumeric, lime juice, candlenuts and lemon grass are utilised, in contrast to Indian curries.

Kari Kapitan (adapted by Phong Hong Bakes from At Home with Amy Beh)

Ingredients :

- 4 chicken legs cut into 8 pieces

- 1 packet coconut cream (200ml)

- salt and sugar to taste

- lime juice from one lime

- oil for frying

Spice Paste Ingredients :

- 4 dried chillies, soaked

- 4 fresh chillies soaked

- 20 shallots

- 5 cloves garlic

- 3 stalks lemongrass

- 1 inch tumeric

- 5 candlenuts (buah keras)

- 1 heaped tablespoon belacan granules

Method :

1. Blend spice paste ingredients.

2. Heat oil  in a wok and saute spice paste until aromatic and oil rises on top. If you find the spice paste is too dry, add a bit of coconut milk.

3. Add chicken and mix until chicken is covered with spice paste.

4. Pour coconut milk into the wok and simmer over low fire until chicken is cooked and tender

5. Taste and add sugar and salt to taste.

6. Serve with white rice, roti jala or bread.

Note : I did not dilute the coconut cream because from experience, the chicken will bleed water. I want my curry to be thick and not runny.

For dessert, why not try fresh mango slices on top of a sago pudding laden with coconut milk?  This light dish is neither too sweet nor heavy on the palate.  Unlike in China itself, the Lunar New Year in Australia, New Zealand and South-east Asia is celebrated in sweaty conditions - and this cooling proposal may be most welcome.  Below, shredded pieces of turnips  for the poh pniah rolls.  Lettuce forms the basis of a firmed up roll, but only remembering to spread the chili and hoi sin pastes first on the wrapper skin.  The lettuce also serves as  a natural cup for the other and mainly shredded ingredients before folding. The other ingredients are julienned carrots, fine sliced French beans, narrow strip cucumbers, crispy deep fried shallots, fried and crushed peanuts and shelled cooked shrimps.  The fun part about having poh pniah is that every one can roll up their sleeves and participate to roll their own servings for the festive feast.

The above dishes were photographed at the home of Mr and Mrs Boo Ann and Susan Yap in Carlingford, NSW.

Christmas Eve - Beecroft, Sydney

I prefer glazed ham to turkey, any time of the year.  At Christmas time in Australia, the hams consumed at barbies, family gatherings , out decks of houses and in offices usually come from the leg of a porker, often only nine months old.  Beechwood is the preferred source of smoking the ham and the outcome we see at our dining tables takes around a week.  Pelvic and thigh bones are removed but with the hock intact for the easiest type of  ham to carve.  Removing the rind is part of the process before serving the ham slices. A pillow case can be a good substitute for a proper ham bag to help keep cooked ham in a freezer and it usually lasts for three weeks after part so fit have been carved.  Everyone looks for flavour, texture, colour and character in ham.  Below, the pear and rocket salad mix prepared by Ely and Ray at their Christmas Eve do this year.

Lighting the pudding has been an age old practice originating from Northern Europe and the version of the sweet stuff we all had at Ely and Ray's this time had a lightness in bite and a very agreeable taste.  Served with custard, it provides a closing to a hearty meal, that in the Aussie tradition, included summery prawns and wine, amongst other items.  Apart from the expected plain flour, brown sugar, bicarbonate of soda, chopped butter, eggs, bread crumbs, ground cinnamon and mixed spice, pudding is rich because it is added with rum and a variety of dried fruits like chopped dates, pitted prunes, almonds and ground nutmeg.  And yes, don' t forget the pinch of salt and finely grated lemon zest!

Vietnam - Some Souvenirs

Vietnam is a prime exporter of agricultural products, like rice, rubber,coffee and pepper, but to individual visitors, what comes across remarkably are lacquered products , embroidery, pottery, silk fabrics, weaved craft, stone carvings, bamboo and rattan articles, ceramic, wooden contraptions and paintings.  This is a result of long established cultural traditions and a developing economy.  The majority of the current population is under 30 years old, laden with the enthusiasm, agility and promise of youth.  The centre of handicraft is still central Vietnam, with the hub around Hue and Hoi An.

You can see many water colours offered by local artists in shops, markets and pavement stalls.  I was more fascinated by origami-like paper cuts which you can come across being sold by vendors all over the place.  Best of all are the hang lanterns, available in all sizes, which are made from varying qualities of Vietnamese silk fabric, the best of which are found in Hoi An.   The military part of national history has been filtered through in reproductions of wooden helicopters.  Above, a young man concentrates on weaving silk fabric on to his art masterpiece , just outside Ha Noi.

Lacquer ware was introduced from the north, China, and this embellishes not just souvenir shops, but public buildings like temples and hotels and is especially a favourite  on furniture.  The abundance of limestone in Vietnam also contributed tot he growth of stone carvery and marble statuary. Crafts also are linked to strong musical  traditions upheld by various groups like the Kinh and Cham peoples.

Ha Noi's Old Quarter

The streets and lanes are narrow, crowded and cluttered. The precinct oozes with every expectation and stereotype a visitor would expect from an Asian metropolis that bustles with trade, street affairs and people. One has to be reminded that this city of Ha Noi is the capital of a Communist state, but the business penchant and practice that is so evident in the Old Quarter comes from long traditions and establishments. Families actually live above their shops and every day a vibrant neighbourhood system, that intertwines livelihoods and strong community links, provides meaning and continuity to every resident.  The street names each and every time include the Vietnamese  word "Hang", which just means merchandise. I saw street plates with names like Pho Hang Buom, Pho Hang Chiew and Pho Hang Mam - Pho referring to a street.

Hang Bac is Silver Street, Hang Gai is Silk Street and Hang Tre is the Bamboo Street. In contemporary Ha Noi, some of these streets do now offer produce and products that vary from the original names. Still, Hang Huong, or Incense Street,has the lingering aromatic sweetness of joss sticks. To me, the Old Quarter is the original super market or department store and can have hidden delights if one takes the time to explore, listen and observe.  The Cha Ca La Vong, an eatery which specialises in a marinaded monkfish dish, has been operating for more than a hundred years, despite the change in political leaders, modernity and populations.  Fermented rice, saffron and galangal is mixed with the ever popular fish sauce to make this marinade.

Sailmakers Street or Hang Buom  is now laden with candies, sweet meats, freshly ground coffee and imported alcohol like brandies and whiskies.  Nothing beats getting the grassroots feel when visiting Ha Noi as staying in the Old Quarter.  Its central location and easy walking access to other interesting parts of the city centre (except for those around the West Lake) make it a magnet for tourists young and old. Perhaps the better way is to adapt to and learn crossing the roads in Vietnam first in Ha Noi rather than on the wider roads of Ho Chi Minh City in the country's south.

People rise early in the Old Quarter. Residing in a hotel there, I could hear the rising crescendo of activity, conversation and traffic as early as 6 am. Interesting items of note are roasted sour pork hash, pottery, meat jerky, grilled cuttlefish and jewellery. A few members of my group and I took an evening cyclo ride past shops and other fascinating retail outlets.  Above, a view from the upstairs of a well known coffee joint and below, heritage styled furniture grace guest accommodation. Pop up markets are set up after sunset.  The evening before I flew out of Vietnam, I had the opportunity to try the pho, the rice noodle soup that originates from Ha Noi.

The Dong Xuan Market is the oldest institution of its kind in Ha Noi. The Bach Ma Temple has a unique and magical White Horse.  Artisans have settled in this Old Quarter since the 11th century when a national celebrity Ly Thai To built his political capital here, the cherished Thang Long (Or Rising Dragon).  Today it is worth staying in or visiting the many tubular designed houses or stop by the Memorial House Museum, a tribute to merchant life of the past.  There were 36 original gates in this precinct, but only one remains intact today - the Quan Chong, or the Gate of the Commander of the Regiment.   Today the Old Quarter is also known locally as the 36 Streets, although others opine that the number 36 refers actually to the number of trade or craft guilds once having businesses in this area.  An interesting aspect of this historical area is that there used to be porridge sellers providing food to candidates who came from all over the country to sit for the imperial examinations nearby.

Sydney CBD - Practical Eats

Charcoal grilled chicken ala Vietnam with tomato flavoured rice, veg and dipping sauce.  (The Naughty Chef, Hunter Connection, Wynyard precinct)

Penang-inspired char koay teow, the Malaysian cousin of pad thai and laden with stir-fried egg, bean sprouts, wok heat , prawns off the shell, crunchy shallots and chopped Chinese chives.  (Ipoh onYork, near the junction of King and York Streets, Town Hall precinct)

Cantonese inspired Ipoh Hor fan, with steamed chicken on the skin, served with rice noodle soup, plenty of bean sprouts, garnishing, soy sauce, garlic and chili pastes.  (Sayong Curry and Laksa Malaysian, Woolworths Food Court, basement at Woolworths Town Hall)

A nasi lemak combination set, with lusciuos looking chicken curry, hard boiled eggs, deep fried anchovies, sambal condiments, Lebanese cucumber slices, curried potatoes and coconut milk flavoured steamed rice.
(Ipoh onYork, near the junction of King and York Streets, Town Hall precinct)

Summer - Balgownie Blooms

Flowers are what you hope and work consistently at for results - a momentary celebration to mark an occasion when one moves on to a different dimension, one decidedly better, one that embeds the future and which liberates you from the chains of the past.

We pay attention to details, use patient logic to navigate our path and strive to fuel our passion - and at times we are rewarded with a perfect and hallmark moment that makes it all worthwhile.

Delicate is the moment, aroma is what enhances our senses when
our adequate use of judgement flows into nuances of gratitude and beauty.

We occasionally clear the cobwebs in the garden of our minds, so as to allow more room for 

the growth of the right thing to do in our hearts.

During the festive season, ensure you have a quiet moment in time to reflect the past, affirm the present and embrace the future. Never take things for granted, do not be swamped by diversions and prepare for even better times ahead. Listen with an open mind, think with a generous  spirit and enjoy any bird song that comes your way. People are what matters and family is unconditional. Look for the glimmer of light yourself.

Chedi Thai, Newtown, Sydney

The Chedi Thai Restaurant is located at at the western end of King Street in the inner Sydney city suburb of Newtown, not far from the junction of King and Messinden  Streets.  It is close to the Sydney University campus cohort. Ely and Ray organised a lunch there on a recent Saturday when the Newtown markets were held. The diverse and interesting suburb of Newtown is 150 years old.  Here are my impressions of the several dishes we tried from a cuisine which I reckoned is more southern than northern Thai, more Phuket and Hatyai than Chiangmai or Bangkok.  It is a spacious restaurant, in contrast to several Thai food venues in the Chinatown precinct of Sydney CBD.

My top choice goes to the barramundi filleted pieces topped by a green mango salad (photo above) - the flavours mix and complement each other readily and remind one of sitting on the beach facing the Andaman Sea, immersing in the fresh seafood sensations and surrounded by the aromas of tropical fruits, herbs and vegetables.

Crispy pork with chili and basil - this was my most tasty dish that afternoon, with a crunchiness and bite of chili heat that offers the best of both southern Chinese and authentic Thai essentials. The various garnishing items add an extra dimension to the overall fusion sensation.

Fresh coconut juice served in a natural and organic container - the coconut itself. Coconut sizes can vary, although when plucked, it is an oval shaped fruit, light green outside and with a white edible layer inside. Coconuts are indispensable to many cultures and communities and offer use to human society with every major and little bit of itself.  Coconut juice can be refreshing on a hot summer's day and is preferably drunk without any added sugar or other ingredient.

The red curry combining roast duck slices with longans, tomato cuts, fish sauce, egg plants, pineapple cubes and coconut cream (picture above) also stood out. The Thai menu identifies this as the Kaeng Ped Pett Yang and uses different spice mixes from the green option ( tumeric and galengal being the differentiators).
Very different from the spicy duck curry of Kerala in southern India, the Thai version is lighter, more creamy and has roasted duck ready before the cooking for this dish begins.

Prawns with garnish sitting on top and wrapped in leaves above, encapsulates the best of cuisine from Thailand. Produce from both the land and seas, from the gardens and combined in clever ways to create new tastes and results, are utilised to whet the appetite and served in various forms of starters, desserts, curries  and mains.  The entree shown above echoes some of the  traditional dishes found as well in Straits Chinese, Burmese, Malay and Indonesian cooking variations.

Chedi also provides a choice of the brown version of jasmine rice, which is a necessary accompaniment to the dishes mentioned above. Vegetarians may want to try the savoury pumpkin and egg dish offered by Chedi.   We went to the opening along Newtown's King Street of a yogurt place, so we did not proceed to after meal sweeteners at Chedi.  In the dessert category, I did note that they also offer black sticky rice served with a dash of coconut cream and deep fried banana fritters with honey glaze and ice cream dollops.

Atmosphere:  Spacious and light setting.
Location: Suburban and trendy.
Taste: Good for specific dishes.
People Engagement:  Above expectations.
Service:  Friendly and efficient.
Best Dish Experienced:  Barramundi fillets with green mango salad.
Best Time to Visit: Lunch time.
Would I Return? Yes.