A Taste Of Shanghai - Eastwood, Sydney

The barramundi was transformed  into a boat shaped delight, with tomato based sweet and sour gravy bathed over crispy and crunchy bites of tender and tasty fish.  The cultural significance of upright fish tail and fish head is not to be under estimated in Chinese thought, especially during festive seasons, when sitting down together implies the circle of harmony, reunion and joy.   The setting was a crowded eating house which has an outlet in the suburbs of Eastwood north-west of the Sydney Harbour Bridge (apart from those in the western Sydney area of Ashfield and World Square in Sydney CBD) Television screens above the kitchen were broadcasting the annual New Year's Eve concert from Beijing.   A Taste of Shanghai suggests of dumplings, pastry and noodles - this place in Eastwood has all of them and more.

Above,  the siew loong pau, or steamed meat, shrimp and soup dough buns in the Cantonese tongue, daintily sitting in a circle inside a bamboo steamer tray, with the central piece dotted with a bright coloured nose, like Rudolph the reindeer.  This pau is a speciality of the Shanghai area, as distinct to this commercial bustling metropolis as its capitalistic urges, strong women and trading dominance.  Often consisting of pork mince inside, the most important part of this snack is the quality of the dough.  Also known in Mandarin as the xiao long bao, careful touches of ginger, onion juice, Xiaoshing wine, soy sauce and chicken stock add to the delicacy and refinement of the final taste.  The soup itself is made separately and utilises chicken stock, slab bacon, scallions, salt, ginger and a tablespoon of crushed white peppercorns.  This item is a favourite of Guangzhou styled restaurants in most Western cities and is included in the dian xin or "small touch of the heart" trolleys seen at lunchtime.  I hear from Chinese friends that this is not considered as a dumpling within their country, although it is often referred to as such outside China itself. Dumplings are known as jiaozi in China, and they are different in outside appearance from the xiao long bao (the dough of which are only pinched once at the top).

My fav choice that Sunday evening - the first of the Lunar New Year of the Water Snake - was the irresistible and colourful pork belly presented over a bed of snow pea leaves and utterly relishing with flavour.  Neither salty nor bland, the texture  of the choice of belly cut  and the right bean based paste did bring the palate to a higher appreciation and sensation.  Recommended for consuming with steamed rice, this dish must never be too lean nor over cooked.

A savoury selection was best represented by the fillings accompanying the served mantou (or unfilled bun) in the picture shown above and below. The mantou is a baker's delight, using active dry yeast, cooking oil contents of an egg, lukewarm water, all purpose wheat flour and the usual pinches of salt and sugar.

The crispy deep fried  turnip filled puff, below, is an excellent starter, to be dipped in mayonnaise, and is coated with a generous layer of sesame seeds.  They can be downed accompanied by tea or beer.  It was a rainy night when my group of nine left the restaurant.  Next day was the second day of the Lunar Year, but in Australia, it was back to work unless you took annual leave.

Lunar New Year of the Water Snake - Nan Tien Temple, Wollongong NSW

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Located about 80km south of the Sydney Harbour Bridge lies the Buddhist temple complex of Nan Tien (or Southern Heaven), which on most days is  a haven and refuge for mediation, prayer and devotion. On festive days, the place transforms to a buzz, with visitors coming from all over and the hill slope site plays host to families, backpackers, locals and tourists.  Such an occasion was the first day of the current Lunar New Year.  I reside a mere fifteen minutes drive down the main highway and on a Sunday morning, we took the opportunity to check out a Taiwanese version of the Spring Festival.  Above, artificial trees with glitter and giant sized puppet children greet visitors as they step on to the plaza at the upper levels of the complex leading tot he Five Buddhas shrine hall.

Good omens , lucky directions and auspicious sayings are emphasised to commence the day -and therefore year - right.  There were miniature dance lions on display, cooling herbal teas served and vegetarian food stalls offering a variety of dishes from steamed to deep fried.  Below, glutinous rice dumplings, packed with beans and ingredients which are non-meat, are neatly wrapped and held by tightly secured raffia strings. These dumplings are usually associated with the Dragon Boat Festival in mid-June but were seen sold at one of the food stalls lined up along the undercover passage corridors of the temple.

Sea cucumber, mushrooms and other vegetarian delights ('su" in Mandarin) are being stirred and kept warm by a volunteer on the most celebrated of Chinese cultural festive days. (photo above)  The sky was Aussie shiny blue and the crowds were streaming in, first in vehicles and then later, mostly by foot. There were lion dance performances by members of martial arts schools and many lanterns adorned the ceilings of buildings, creating a merry sight of red, round and delight.

The main banner message focused on going for "unwavering advancement, despite life's twists and turns -  this can lead to the attainment of happiness and wisdom."

Sweetness is the key - this was represented by dessert on skewers, pickled fruits with a sugary coat. (photo below).  Deep fried pastry (above picture) was articulated in various shapes and flavours, but all vegetarian based.  In Taiwan, as many ten percent of the population practice vegetarianism as part of  their regular food intake and this has resulted in a mature and strict food labeling system for such cuisine in the island.

The Nan Tien Temple is surrounded by the escarpment of the Illawarra area, is located in a suburb called Berkeley and is in close proximity to the coastal waters of the Tasman Sea near to Shellharbour and Port Kembla in New South Wales.  It is one of the several branches of the Fokuangshan  group around the world.  Taiwanese vegetarianism forgo the eating of garlic, leeks and onions, as such foods are believed to unnecessarily arouse extreme human emotions.  There are landscaped gardens, a lodge and a small museum on the grounds - and across the main highway, is a gradually developing university campus offering both religious and non-religious courses and degrees under the banner of the Nan Tien Institute.

Lunar New Year of the Water Snake

Albert Einstein once said  'We do not have to understand the world, we only have to find our way in it."
And this is how I view the Chinese cultural perspective of the Snake, an animal demonised in Western mythology but which occupies a position of awe and amazement in the East.  The Lunar New Year of the Water Snake commences on 10 February 2103, and it promises to be a year of correction and change, one in which each of us have to flexible and quick enough to grab the new opportunities arising.  We are embarking on a period when we have to find new ways to do things, look at things and think of alternatives and innovation.

The nature of the Snake can be likened to someone who is intelligent, has charismatic confidence, can shed off adversity like a second skin and is a quiet achiever. Think of people like Oprah Winfrey, Abraham Lincoln, Pablo Picasso, Bob Dylan and Kayne West - they were all born in a previous Lunar Year of the Snake.  In Asia, the Snake is revered.  The sixth day of the new Lunar Year is dedicated to a deity who protects snakes - the Chor Su Kong - and there is an iconic temple in Penang Island, my home town, dedicated to this. Think of the snake charmers in the Indian sub-continent.  The medicinal properties of snake bile are well documented.  Reflect on the hypnotic stare of a cobra. In East Asian tradition, the snake was already existent from the very beginning of recorded history.  Whilst New Zealand amazingly has no snakes, my own precinct of the Illawarra coast in New South Wales does have its fair share of snakes.

How we can better ourselves this coming year? The cultural forecast follows. Although those  born under the the sign of the Rabbit find it an excellent year ahead, Rats should keep their wealth out of sight and both  the Ox and Dragon have to be more tolerant of others who do not share their values and opinion.  Female Tigers in the entertainment industry are however favoured this coming year.  The Horse has to be cautious about infatuations and the Monkey should be wary of infidelity. Goats have increased positive contacts with influential and social contacts.  The Rooster has to be more tactful and manage change more effectively. The Dog may find love where least expected.  Boars  can face a romantically turbulent time.  Snakes themselves have to watch out for roller coaster rides in their experience of life.

It is said that for every human being, one third of his or her fate or journey in life is determined by the heavens, implying the time of birth.  Another third can be affected by the company he keeps, the parents and family grown up with and the peers who influence him.  The final third is sheer personal self-determination, mindset, soul searching and inner self.   Otherwise everyone born under the same animal sign will be clones of each other.  In deference to Mr Einstein, truly and deeply, each of us have to find our own unique way in life.

Sydney - Various Vietnamese Flavours

A nation's decision to allow immigrants of another contrasting culture always brings positive benefits to the food scene.  When different styles of cooking and cuisine utilise the local ingredients of the host country, the result can be synergistic and most delicious,  as I have observed on the Australian scene.  A specific dish, like a human being, can be elevated to a higher dimension when the environment provides a spurt of quality and nurturing. Travelling through Vietnam  recently, I could recognise with delight several familiar dishes easily available now in major centres on the Australian continent, but with a positive twist on taste, texture and presentation.  Above, charcoal grilled lemon grass flavoured chicken served to a tee , accompanied by tomato flavoured rice and cuts of lettuce, Lebanese cucumbers and red chili garnish.

Sugar cane juice is refreshing, natural and best drunk without any more added stuff.   The canes above sit next to neatly wrapped fresh vegetable rolls on the right and a pomelo on the left of the picture.  The crush of the fibre, which then oozes the juice, is then discarded as pulp, although they still remain nutritious.  The love of sugar cane is endemic throughout most of tropical Asia, and Queensland also remains a big producer of the cane.  During the Vietnamese Tet, or Lunar New Year, the canes are highly prized, as also for festive occasions in the Indian sub-continent and in Taiwan.  Sugar cane sticks are cut to serve as paddle pop sticks to hold skewers of prawn in another Viet snack.

The pho, or stock soup tenderly flavoured with various spices and then usually served with thin slices of beef or chicken, remains a favourite pick me up for lunch or dinner in many Asian dominated suburbs in Australian cities.   Star anise, cardamon,  cinnamon sticks, cloves and coriander pods are used cleverly to bring out the taste of a unique soup, and as such spices are only utilised for flavouring, they must be never found in the served soup by ensuring that the spices are in a cook mesh when used.  Leg and knuckle bones with marrow are preferred to ensure a good pho soup.  Add to that brew the effects of charred ginger and onions. Do pick the best of herbs from the market that morning -  mint, bean sprouts, chili cuts, basil, cilantro and lime slices.

Above, the sago in coconut flavours, courtesy of Raymond Lin.  Grilled coconut is strewn on top as crunchy and aromatic garnishings, to provide a contrast to the creamy dessert.  This has the best effect after a spicy or chili hot main meal.  The pandanus leaf is also valued here to bring up the taste of an otherwise neutral dessert.  Palm sugar and soy milk can also be used to enhance the overall feel and taste of the dessert.  The sago is from tapioca and constant stirring when cooking  is essential to produce a good version of this item.

Sydney Vignettes