Sifters Espresso - Wollongong NSW

Iced Latte.

Perhaps this is the most consistent gathering of bearded hipsters south of Surry Hills.  Fronted by a funky clothes shop Minty Duds, the sloping lane from Market Street leads to a fete like location of paved tar, several forms of seating, a caravan park like setting, a hidden world beside alleys as if you are in Melbourne and one of the best coffees this side away from the Grounds off Alexandria.  And the food, partnering with Son of A Gun, complements the coffee focus, the crowd demographic and the daily opening hours.   On a nice day, the theme is sky blue.

Puddles there may be on a persistently rainy day, but you can rely on the Sifters, as surely as you can find a hard copy of Future Perfect magazine there.   There are potted plants on the side, apparently mobile loos, art pieces hanging around and easy parking on the adjoining Victoria Street (weekends are free).  Most just walk in from the nearby GPT shopping centre or Wollongong's burgeoning food street - Keira.  Every time I go there, I reckon it is like coming upon a secret location - and then hey I think I know this chap, this gal and that.  Miniature native plants adorn most tables.

Before 1130am, there are light sandwiches and burgers, but the intent is on the coffee beans and how Sifters drip it, make it and craft it.   Mel Cox wants to showcase a diversity of Single Origins and offer customers  a different blend every time they visit.  Australia is already the home of so many blends - but there is this big wide world there!    You can have an alternative range to get away from the usual makes - and it can be tailor served for you also in drip filter, macchiato, double shot, ristretto, affagato, doppio and cold brew.

The Burger Butty.

After 1130am, it is time to experiment with the food.   Yes, they do have the big breakfast, or their own version.  I noticed the ramen, rather fusion than the original, but with ingredients and garnishing that reflect modern Aus than noodle outlet Tokyo.   Son of  A Gun hails from the Heritage Kitchen  in Wollongong's northern village, Bulli.   The signature item is the rhubarb compote granola, a special blend, a special take and  special recipe.  There are also smoked lamb toasties, something to differentiate from the parade of pulled pork, mixed grain salads and brisket rolls seen in many of the burgeoning number of modern Australian cafes around the country.

Before 1130am, there are two bites that appeal to me, one with avocado smash  and the other is that layered bun where omelette infuses with bacon, sauce and garnish - the Butty.   I reckon the Butty may have just the sort of pull to form a growing tribe.  The ocean may not be near, the stadium has no game, but any time is a good time for the Butty!

Sifters Expresso, together with Pepe's Garden, artist Jess Cochrane and Minty Duds
82 Market Street, but down a side lane
Wollongong CBD
Telephone 0437 886 900
Open every day from 7am till 4ish pm


Would I return?  A definite yes.
What is the mood there? Casual, fashionable and relaxed.
How is the ambiance?  Outdoors, mates turn up and if there is no seat, just have a take away.
Seating:  Varied, with artificial turf, director's chairs, pub style, normal table and sloping on the lane as well!
Business model:  Separate teams prepare the food and coffee.
Dress code:  Forward looking, just to be different, hipster.
Compulsory for males:  A well kept beard.
Compulsory for females: The shoes you choose.
Rush hour: Yummy mummies mid-morning on weekdays, brunch hour on weekends.
What is the X factor here?   The whole package.

Kurtosh House No 5 - Wollongong NSW

An amazing world of well crafted culinary gems for morning or afternoon gatherings.

With an Eastern Euro feel, founded by Israeli and French entrepreneurs, staffed by friendly Aussies and with a branch found in a regional city. What more could I ask for, but wait there is more...the Kurtosh No.5 (in the context of the greater Sydney area anyway) is located in a  literally, figuratively and trendy cool place, beside Globe Lane in the CBD, an offshoot from the pedestrian Crown Street Mall.

 This cafe has  a long shape inside, so deep far in that a couple could while away long hours without being interrupted.  Its entrance is not so obvious but provides two choices, one to the amazing display of its produce and creations, with another allowing customers to push baby prams in.    A clue -it is opposite the San Churro and adjacent to His Boy Elroy.   Inside there are dim lights, darkened brick in the raw walls and cosy tables.

The barista's den.

What does the word Kurtosh signify?  I can think of the KurtosKalacs, once a festive treat and a favourite of Hungarian nobility, now more accessible in a rich and modern world - the stacked chimney pastries.  These are barrel shaped dough snacks with a truncated cone made from hard and dry yeast dough, eggs, salt, flour, sugar, milk and butter - a signature dish of the Szeklerland region.    There is  caramelised sugar glaze over this Transylvanian creation, which is also available in the other Kurtosh cafes in Surry Hills, Balmain, Randwick, Darlinghurst and Crows Nest.   The KurtosKalacs also was a commonly shared and strong symbol of Szekler culture when Szeklerians were being driven away by the Tartars in one period of European history.

When asked what type of cakes do they make, on my very first visit a month ago,  the clever staff member said,  "these are cakes like what Grandma used to make".   Hey, that set the standards, the expectations, the mystery and the fun.    The very first things that caught my eye were the brandy choc balls, round and perfect basking under the display lights.   Croissants and the Babka loaves  look crisp and fresh  - an idea for an early drop by and fast take away?    Provide Kurtosh four days notice and they can help in decorating your festive occasion cakes.  There are fudges, cheesecakes, biscotti  -  things sprinkled with nuts, seeds and most important of all, love.

Colours are bold, the atmosphere is mellow and the coffee is uplifting.

So even if I felt I was in Budapest inside the cafe, the variety of biscuits, cakes, pastry another delights extend beyond Eastern Europe.  It also brings back to the days when dainty cakes were sold by the weight, a good idea to return to, with the customers having fun deciding the amount to partake with coffee on site and /or to take home.  And the coffee.....it is the Mecca blend.    What also captivated  my group of three was the spanking modern multi-tiered oven.  Teacraft teas can be selected by those who abstain from coffee.

The barista has a separate counter from the cake display, another idea that makes sense.   There is  a unicycle from England hidden behind a wall inside.  We are cocooned from the world outside, we can concentrate on the cake slices in front of us and we relish every bite, every savour, especially of the quality chocolate.  I especially am a  kid in a proverbial candy shop, the varying texture  and sensations in my mouth most appreciated, most important.

Spinach filling, sesame seed coated - a snack that is warm, fulfilling and easy on the palate.

The blonde-brown haired guy at the cakes counter was enthusiastic in explaining to us what we could have.
The barista made the coffee fast, there was no delay, even if the place was filling up on an early Sunday afternoon. Could we take part of a cake home?   I feel particularly blessed, here was a stand out bakery only ten minutes by car from home and here I was, digging into cake samples with great company.

There were no vehicle parking issues, in fact I could have taken the free Gong shuttle to this heaven.  The Kurtosh here is open every day.  Katie and Scott shared my passion for the cakes chosen.  There are also gluten free fruity sponge cakes.  So much variety and even if one drops by every week for just one selection, it may take a year to complete trying the display.  The Kurtosh offers generous samplings at the entrance and this is a great idea to get our appetites going.

Clockwise a sampling - carrot cake, dark choice, raspberry and a layered one with white chocolate.

Big Tree House Cafe, Rydalmere NSW

The yummy Eggs Benni for breakky.

It is a delightful to find a city centre styled cafe in the north-western Sydney suburbs.  Vehicle parking is much easier, the Opal card relevant bus from both Parramatta and Eastwood does pass by on the adjoining Park Road (but alas only on weekdays) and there is a train station at Dundas (but on  the much maligned City Rail Carlingford line, with not very regular trains and the need to change at Clyde).   

Putting all these minor transport irritations aside, I reckon the Big Tree House is a gem of a place, with a relaxed atmosphere, tree lined roads, friendly staff, Campos coffee and a variety of creative menu items for breakfast, brunch and lunch.  The setting is residential but the mood can be hipster in an area bound by Kissing Point and Victoria Roads.   My experience there has been its popularity with youngsters, families, hipsters, trades, business twosomes, women's groups, mates and dates.

Spaghetti with prawns, rocket, sourdough, cheese and a squeeze of lemon.

There are not many items on the menu as I reckoned, but several specific items stand out.  

Goats on Toast and the Big Tree House Burger are its signature offerings, with the latter having its cheese and aioli plus pineapple and beetroot raising the taste stakes.   The Goats On Toast is the main reason to check this place out - organic nuts sit on the bed of sourdough, and the French goats cheese has drizzled honey on the side.

I highly recommend its unique prosciutto and melon sandwich, even if you are not in  hurry, for this is one to savour and experience.    A preferred choice especially with my female friends is the fresh prawn and mango salad -  and this creative offering here comes with avocado, cucumber, passion fruits sauce and pickled ginger, a touch of Asian and a touch of fusion.   Accompany all this with a Virgin Grape Mojito!   The attention to detail at the Big Tree House comes off as a significant point in its menu and presented dishes.

For brunch or breakky, I love the corn fritters, lovingly served with tomato relish, poached egg, avocado and bacon.  Another special treat, which I am eyeing, is the asparagus and saute mushroom, drizzled with truffle oil and accompanied by the ubiquitous poached egg and mushroom bites.   The croissants have double smoked ham and Swiss cheese inside, part from the home made Big Tree House jams.

Sweet-tooths have two recommended choices - first in the ricotta pancakes, swiped with honey cinnamon butter and served with caramelised banana;  and second, but not least, in the Brioche French Toast, which comes with fresh berries, maple syrup and vanilla Mascarpone.

Counter view, the barista machine and the board menu.  Help yourself to drinking water on the left.

The main counter lets you see through the kitchen, often abuzz with preparation, garnishing and presentation.   There are a few tables only the pavement, the cafe faces houses and I prefer indoor seating.   Customers are comfortable to while away chatting within their own space, young mummies bring in their welcome infants and kids.  You serve your own drinking tap water at the side and the food comes in a timely manner.  

The young barista Paul is enthusiastic and chats with lunchers with a smile.  A central bar top has reading materials placed.  I felt as if I had dropped by a mate's place, the feel is wooden rustic.  Next time it's onwards go for the three mushroom crepe!

Big Tree House Cafe88 Calder RoadRydalmere NSW 2116Nearest Cross road - set of lights with Park and Calder RoadsClosed on TuesdaysOtherwise open from early morning till around 4pm.

Din Tai Fung - Miranda Fair Sydney

Busy in the open view kitchen - the emphasis on freshness is not just in the ingredients but also in the preparation.

Taiwan styled Dian Xin* can be different from the Cantonese Dim Sum*, although both expressions in variations of the Chinese language refer to the ritual of partaking in and sampling small tapa-like dishes for variety in flavours and texture.  Historically such get togethers were meant for the early morning, with modern society norms and pressures extending it to a brunch and lunch thing.    Din Tai Fung and Shanghai-inspired outlets around the world have extended the availability of such food for evenings these days, although with a stop for the staff after 3pm and before 530pm each day.

The other noted difference is that such "touch of the heart" cuisine offering restaurants as a general practice do not allow table bookings - customers come as you are and then only we shall seat you, perhaps reflecting the Asian penchant for best facilitating revenue turnover, but also removing the potential conflicts in misunderstood communication, errors in bookings and so forth. Yum cha is another expression referring to drinking tea, which are de rigour in such places, but these days alcohol is also available in licensed places.
* literally "touch of the heart".

Soy sauce marinated chicken.

Din Tai Fung is a most familiar name in this space, modernising the traditional tea house, keeping younger generations interested and ensuring a simple but fresh menu.  Outside the Asia-Pacific, where it operates currently in nine nations, it can also be found in the USA.

The outlet at the southern Sydney Shire of Sutherland has two levels, is part of a well customised shopping centre and makes an Asian foray into an otherwise mainstream Australian demographic.  Here the choices are not restricted to purely Dian Xin items - there are also offering that are usually found at dining time, like those I expect to be accompanied by steamed rice.  Service is efficient, you are given a paper checklist to tick what you want and the literal steam from bamboo baskets add to the theme and ambiance.

A Taipei favourite - bread spicy mix crumbed fried chicken.

Some people do find the food bland and underwhelming, having to dip into sauces instead of enjoying the original flavours of each dish.    Having said this, I do recognise the importance of the sauce quality as well - they often give a swirl of sour, sweet, salty and spicy in the mouth.

I am happy the food does not make me thirsty two hours after I take it, as can be experienced in some other places.  It is an art to retain the subtlety of Dian Xin offerings and this is best evident when using fresh produce.  An example of this is the hand pulled noodles, served with a marinated soy sauce mix or in soups -  this  is a staple of mainland northern Chinese food, akin to breads for European populations.  It is said that if frozen meats, seafood or veg are utilised, this can be easily picked up in steamed dumplings.   Think of the signature dish Xiao Long Bao at DTF -  they are steamed pork  buns with a twist, hot soup inside the steamed dough.  Every ingredient is a subject for flavour, texture and skill.

Interesting enough, this one item - the Xiao Long Bao - is said to be the dish that launched a thousand possibilities for Din Tai Fung.  It gave the business a turning point, changing the original trade in cooking oils.  Talk of change management, business continuity and sheer grit - the founder Yang Bing Yi and his wife never looked back after getting into the Dian Xin line of business.

Steamed dumplings, with usually shrimp and pork inside - a common feature in Cantonese, Shanghai and Beijing cuisines.

So what is so different from this cuisine from the Hong Kong and Guangzhou fare?   Perhaps the availability of mung bean noodles (Xiao Chi), the chicken soup, the Xiao Long Biao and the Taiwan-styled drinks.  Its Silvercord branch in Hong Kong was awarded one Michelin star.  There is a strict monitoring to ensure that every dumpling pastry made has to be weighted between 4.8 and 5.2 grams when prepared.  

Tim Ho Wan Restaurant - Chatswood Sydney

The dainty and flavourful Siew Mai, with a red hat for a difference.

The reputation had begun in Hong Kong, escalated when Lung King Heen Restaurant was awarded one Michelin Star.  Chef Mak Kwai Pui was responsible for the cuisine served at Lung King Heen.  The rest you may say is history. Chef Mak then served at the Le Meridian Hong Kong, before he decided to purse his own business - and Tim Ho Wan in Mongkok was born six years ago, with a modest 19 seats location.

 The crowds continued to troop in THW branches in Hong Kong, Taipei, Singapore, Manila and Kuala Lumpur. This year saw the launch of the "adding of good vibes' in Australia.  Chatswood, the bustling centre of Asian migrants with a higher than average income level, complete with a transport hub and a shopping precinct, was the obvious choice to launch, with Burwood, Sydney Chinatown and Melbourne apparently in the line of sight.

With personal curiosity, social media expectation and crowd hype, I really tried to keep an open mind as I joined the queue on a late Sunday afternoon with two other friends.   The THW outlet in Chatswood is in the District Dining Precinct, purpose built over the Railway Street side of the rail station.  There are expensive high rise apartments nearby, commuters can make a dash for a yum cha session here before continuing on City rail to the Macquarie Shopping Centre and Macquarie University.

The signature baked Char Siew or barbecued pork bun.

The deco is modern, emphasising on tables for twosomes.   The staff that afternoon did look stressed out, although it was not a really busy time by THW experience.  Asking for drinking water involved a few times trying - the wait staff were not very communicative as well, seemingly pressured to clear tables and bring in the ordered dishes than  doing anything else.

Customers reflect the Hong Kong Gen Y anime loving spectrum - and the cooler climes of mid-autumn here did help in dressing up.  There were the old timers scattered across the tables, obviously relishing of good old times in the Fragrant Harbour.  Non-Chinese Australians seemed happy with the menu, which consists of only twenty-five items - what a brilliant idea for a business model, which incorporates the difficult-to-discard concept of encouraging table turnover,  an easy to order picture menu card and quick working staff to bring in dishes within an impressive five minutes after ordering.

Liver Cheong on the foreground, with steamed pork ribs in black bean sauce in the background.

The lady at the payment counter had a sense of humour.  I could not place it truly - was this a blend of Surry Hills, Mr.Wong in Wynyard and with shades of those great traditional Cantonese restaurants?  One thing for sure, there was not enough space to push trolleys  with bamboo baskets, every inch was better allocated to paying customers.

Ambiance and taste, with bean curd skin wraps in the foreground.

And bamboo baskets there were a-plenty, even providing the motif for the upper wall.    The chefs and kitchen staff looked focused and busy.  I did hear about the signature dish - baked barbecued  pork buns.  The dough outside was not the traditional recipe, it was an old-styled skin, something refreshingly different.  Biting into the bun did make me feel, hey, there may have been too much sugar in the outer coating, but I was tipped off to savour what was inside, more than anything else.  And there it was - savoury, tender on-the-bite barbecued pork - as you broke open the bun in halves.  The taste comes up first as they slither into my mouth, delicate and wholesome, standing a class above the rest.  There are three such buns on one serving plate - now how many shall I order to take back to the Wollongong Coast?

My favourite - steamed fish maw with prawn paste.

My dining mates did find the braised chicken feet with abalone sauce different and drier than the prevalent version in most Australian yum cha sessions.  We all agreed that it just was more of an old school recipe.  Most of the items available were savoury rather than sweet.  There seems to be an abundance of using pork and shrimp in the steamed servings.  There is no rash and rough presentation, every thing has been predetermined to be as dainty and delicate as possible when served.  Each dish is charged around the seven to eight dollar mark in Chatswood.  Seafood rules at THW, so be prepared.  Oh yes, there are also spring rolls, always a hit with the kids and beer drinkers (no alcohol license has been granted to THW at the time of writing).  Grandma may want to check out the glutinous rice with chicken and mushroom wrapped in bamboo leaves, I avoided that as it is a hefty serving. Chinese tea is charged at $2.50 per person.

Shrimp and veg dumpling - refreshing and uplifting.

The world of corporate and competitive cuisine in the great cities of the world can be challenging.  And dramatic - I understand, correct me if I am mistaken, that chef Eric Koh, who was head hunted from Mr. Wong's in Sydney CBD to head THW in Chatswood, has been reported to have headed back to his previous employ. Does this mean anything, maybe not, as long as the quality of the dishes THW churns out in Australia continue to excite and satisfy customers.  Tellingly, the Sydney operation is overseen by Singapore based Chef Cheung Yat Sing -  this follows an increasing trend whereby Australia is viewed as a business province of headquarters in low-taxed Singapore.

The Cantonese are fond of poetically naming dishes with splendour and meaning.  THW is welcome in this great southern land.    In Hong Kong pop of previous generations, they recognised the Four heavenly Kings in that music genre - and so now there are also four such kings in dim sim cuisine -  the barbecued pork bun, vermicelli roll (Cheong) with pig liver, steamed egg cake and the pan fried radish cake.  Please ask your Cantonese speaking mates for the beautiful Chinese names!

Where the creative people are.

So in the end, after half an hour and devouring ten items amongst the three of us for a late teatime snack session, what are my recommended dishes?  I have to say the Siew Mai and the liver filled Cheong.  They are made with finesse, require delicate and skilled hands plus they came out being served with the right texture and freshness.  Has the restaurant lived up to the hype?  Perhaps not, but it is still worth trying for a few select items and try to visit away from rush hour.   Some say this interim Australian operation of THW does not provide exactly the same taste as in Hong Kong, but I think that can be subjective, so just judge for yourself.

Tim Ho Wan Restaurant - whole day dim sum from 10am till 9pm every day
1 Railway Street, upper level facing road
Chatswood NSW 2067
Telephone 612 9898 9888
Bookings in private room available for a minimum spend of AUD300 - otherwise is a wait and sit system.

Apparently the dish that draws in the crowds, especially in their South-east Asian outlets.