Fitzroy, Melbourne

At Stagger Lee's, you get rustic charm, great coffee, a hipster crowd and a lively evening out.

Fitzroy, the name evokes Melbourne, an alternative lifestyle and so Melbourne itself.
Also hosting a football club significant in the tribal sports culture of this city, it is only a few blocks away (really two kilometres)  from the Victorian Parliament House.  It has heritage sites, a long road to walk in quiet hours and even boasts the birth place of Saint Mary MacKillop, the nation's first Catholic to be bestowed with such honours.  Its very location attracts twenty somethings and so there are the inevitable unique cafes, ethnic food outlets and old frontages of terrace shops. I am captivated by the Perseverance Hotel, for it does look like in dire need of a restorative make over.  And I want to go back to the Fitzroy Town Hall!  And Fitzroy hosts the popular Fringe Festival for Melbourne.   The Fitzroy Baseball Club, the Lions, has existed since 1889 and Fitzroy City, mostly formed by Serbian Australians in 1953, is part of the Victorian State League Football.

Almond croissant from the Babka Cafe.

Dining out, partying near a weekend  or just having a trendy breakfast can be centred around the bars, cafes and pubs.
Caffeine top ups, chatting with baristas and being served fancy toppings over sour dough slices are the order of brunch time as well - with names like Stagger Lee's, Slowpoke and the Grub Food Van.   Music gigs closer to moonlight hours can be found in places like Yah Yahs, Collingwood World  and Panama.    The Euro tradition and heritage is evident here, a precursor to the arrival of other immigrant groups.  Johnson Street oozes with Spanish themes.  The Black Cat has transformed into a bar.  Sydney's Messina Gelato has a branch in Fitzroy along Smith Street.  And there is the Supercool Fitzroy Emporium and the French delight at Gertrude Street, De Clieu, inspired by a former naval officer Gabriel De Clieu who famously saved precious water rations for his coffee plants rather then for himself.

Small business? Crafts are still very much alive in Fitzroy, amidst the apparent gentrification of the suburb twenty years ago and the current revival of inner city living.

Third Drawer Down can be checked out for unusual oddities in shopping at affordable prices.  Nearby Brunswick has the Sydney Road Street party in March, to coincide with the Brunswick Festival.   The current free tram ride on the northern edge of Melbourne's CBD means you can take advantage of this and find your own way nearer to Fitzroy.  Tram No 112 from Collins Street or No 86 from Bourke Street takes you to Brunswick Street.  Nearby train stations are in Collingwood, Parliament and Rushall in North Fitzroy - and then you have to walk, which may be the best way to soak in this unique area.  The Rose Street Artists markets on weekends showcase emerging talent.  Several galleries are accessible on most days - Alcaston, Sutton, the Centre for Contemporary Photography, Window99, PanelPop and the Brunswick Street Gallery.

Breakky and brunch menu at Slowpoke, along Brunswick Street in Fitzroy.

March is festival time in greater Melbourne, with the Moomba Parade, Garden and Flower Show, Food and Wine Festival plus the FI Grand Prix (chalking up 20 years in 2015).  It is but officially the start of the Victorian autumn.  The bohemian nature of Fitzroy nurtures budding interests and devotees in film, cycling, fashion, graphics, art and music. If you are into retro records, vintage wares and cult classics, Fitzroy still does not disappoint.  Check out outlets like Polyester Books, sibling, Somebody Loves You, FAT 4, Hunter gatherer and in.cube8r.  For shoes, go to Smith Street.

Depiction of early settlement life in recent Australian history - an artist's rendition along Brunswick Street.

Fitzroy street scene in the quiet hour.

Oddly enough, Fitzroy is named after a previous New South Wales Governor - considering the sizable historic rivalry between Sydney and Melbourne, this is amazing.   It was the first suburb created outside Melbourne city centre under 200 years ago.   In line with current day trendy districts around there world, Fitzroy was initially a working class area and its proximity to Melbourne's Chinatown also saw many settlers of Chinese origin amongst its first residents. The present day City of Yarra, as distinct from Melbourne, was created in 1994 to take in nearby Collingwood, Richmond and Fitzroy.  Up to nearly half of today's demographics in Fitzroy originate from Vietnam - and so Vietnamese, Cantonese and Mandarin are popular tongues, reflecting the mix of boat refugees following the conclusion of the Vietnam War int he seventies.  Politically, the Australian Labour Party and the Greens hold pretty much sway in this area.   For those who follow Aussie TV, Fitzroy was used for location shooting for such serials as Rush, Offspring and City Homicide.  Last but not least, I note that the second Prime Minister of Australia as a federation, Alfred Deakin, hailed from Fitzroy.

The Making of Ang Koo

Beauties in rows!

Just before steaming them - the outer skin should not be overly red, the banana leaf must not stick to the snack sand have lots of patience and tender care in making this snack.


These snacks should not be overly sweet, nor can they turn hard too fast and must have the texture of having undergone experienced hands. The mould patterns must be clear and show detail.  They are savoury on your palate and go well with tea.

All prepared to make the outer skin.

Glutinous rice flour. Edible red food colouring. Fresh banana plant leaves. A bamboo steamer. Deft experienced hands. Mung beans. Some sweet potatoes. A carefully chosen wooden mould for beautiful tortoise top patterns. Mindfulness that the dough does not stick to the mould. A sense of expectation. Ability to form tight  balls in a size to fit the mould you use.  Warm weather helps, like back along the Straits of Malacca or beside the South China Sea.  Have friends and relatives help out!

The final outcome, red tortoises, made to mark festive occasions.


Unlike some other specific Straits Chinese creations, there are not too many obvious variations for this snack, whether you talk to Penangites, Malaccans or Singaporeans.  The beauty of being able to savour this snack is that they are not made  for daily consumption, so there is a special gratefulness about being able to partake them. I prefer the authentic and original version, red ones, instead of some of the new fangled recipes that use panda or durian flavours.  In south-east Asia, you can source them commercially but nothing is as tasty as those made lovingly at home to celebrate the first month of a an infant.   Increasingly you can at times spot these home made versions brought over to be served at the end of an eight course banquet at a restaurant.

Wooden mould for the Ang Koo outer skin designs.



Lots of preparation and planning are entailed -as required for most of these Straits Chinese creations!  The yellow coloured mung beans have to be washed and soaked at least overnight.   Aroma, texture and taste are key factors used by elderly aunts or uncles to judge the quality of your Ang Koo.   If you want to be dainty, you can serve them in lacquer coated coffin carriers and imagine them being carried along to relatives and neighbours along the narrow lanes of heritage Georgetown in Penang or down Jonkers Street in Malacca. Some for the Ang Koo shapes produced vary, as you can find round balls, rectangle versions and more, but roundness signifies wholesomeness and achievement of a cycle.  Those round ball Ang Koo balls indicate the north of male infants.  A lot of the ingredients are left to stand at room temperature and never see the inside of a fridge.

The fillings on the right - mung bean with sweet potato.


Ingredients for making the skin for Ang Koo:

Cooking corn oil
A pinch of salt
A pinch of sugar
One tablespoon ordinary rice flour
300gm glutinous rice flour
200grams of steamed and meshed skinned sweet potato
Edible food dye, preferably light hued pink
100 ml hot water



Ingredients for making the filling for Ang Koo:
100g castor sugar
Quarter teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons cooking corn oil
200 grams of pre-soaked mung beans


Other things to pre-assemble:
Banana leaves cut into small squares to fit the intended size of each Ang Koo.
Use light grease over each pre-cut banana leaf square.


Procedure for the fillings:
1. Wash and soak the mung beans at least overnight.
2. Next day,m begin by steaming the soaked mung beans for around 20 minutes.
3.  Place the warm cooked mung bean mesh to blend in a food processor with the salt, cooking oil and sugar garnishing.
4.  Obtain a smooth outcome with the mung bean mix.
5. Hand shape the mung bean mixture into balls of the size that fits your mould.
6.  Let the mung bean balls stand at room temperature.

Procedure for the skin:
1. Blend and mix the related ingredients of sugar, ordinary rice flour, glutinous flour and sweet potato.
2. Add the cooking oil, edible  dye and hot water as you knead the mixture.
3. Put aside the mixture under muesli cloth and let it stand.

Making the Ang Koo:
1. Allocate the skin dough into portions to accommodate the pre-shaped filling balls.
2. Flatten the divided skin portions to fit in the filling balls - ensure each ball is sealed adequately.
3. Flour dust the mould and place pre-shaped dough with skin into each mould.
4. Press the dough properly into each mould  and knock each out, to be placed on top of each pre-cut banana leaf square.
5. Occasionally flour dust each mould used to prevent unwanted sticking of the dough into the details of the mould.
6. Place all ready moulded pieces on to a bamboo steamer over a heated wok.
7. Steam the snacks on medium heat until done or around 10 minutes. Watch over this process like a hawk!






Photographs above were taken in the kitchen of Ms Suan Chee, Melbourne.

Yamato Japanese - Liberty Square, ANZ Tower, Sydney CBD

Final preparations just before lunch hour.

Yamato - the name usually refers to an ancient reference for Japan up to the 8th century AD, but it also specifically indicates a province in Nara Perfecture in Honshu Island.  The Nippon script for this name is a combination of characters meaning great and harmony.  The Yamato Izakaya in the heart of Sydney CBD is an oasis huddled away amidst the teeming streets of Koreatown, a corporate banking building and looking out into a modest plaza.  Guests are greeted enthusiastically and with a verbal fanfare. The ingredients utilised are fresh, the pricing is value and the service is friendly and responsive.  On Thursdays and Fridays, complimentary wine and ice cream is provided.  The ambiance is cool and away from the stark Sydney sunlight, but seating can be filled up quickly during popular days.

Getting into a summer's day.

Yamato serves cod, soft shell crab, salmon and scallops - and what I love best is their sushi bento, as opposed to deep fried tempura.  The servings are generous especially for an office workday lunch.  The restaurant is also accessible to Town Hall Station by cutting across the lobby of the ANZ Tower.  The menu can be viewed as less than some other competitors but I reckon sufficient.  The restaurant caters for large groups or twosomes.  A get together group I have met up for over twenty years, City Lunch Australia, recently met up there and we were allowed to be ourselves in the middle of a busy business day. The interior has a wood rustic feel and there is also a private function dining area at the back.  Basics like donburi and teppanyaki are also available, together with cocktails for those who are not really into alcohol with their meal.

The gathering and meal gets going.  Photo credit - Ms Zoe Yu.

Go to any large city around the world and you are bound to find a Japanese restaurant by the same name.  In Sydney the place is casual, the gyoza is good but there seems to be an eclectic menu rather than one with a specialised provincial style of cuisine.  There is more of a bistro feel here rather than a pub but it is a delightful place to try if one needs to be introduced to the spectrum of Japanese cuisine.  They even provided a spoon for the miso soup!

Closure to a meal - a dollop of green tea flavoured ice cream, still with the ice from freezing.

My fav at Yamato Sydney - the sushi bento.

Hardware Societe - Melbourne CBD

On any day, one must manage expectations in trying to find a seat - outside the Hardware Societe.



This has been the darling and the positive delight of foodies, and still is.  Particularly appreciated by the Asian demographic, but really sited in a fantastic locale in the heart of Melbourne CBD, with students, trendies, metrosexuals, shoppers, tourists and hipsters swirling all around.  Located at the northern end of Hardware Lane (an iconic one at that), closer to Little Lonsdale rather than Lonsdale Street, it has been renovated with a more modern feel but with packed seating and very busy staff.  Considering the menu range, the number of eager customers and the constant demand, this is a challenging business model of providing continuing logistics, competitive innovation and required engagement.  The first thing I noticed is that some apparent repeat guests know how to approach the place like a hawk on arrival, zooming down on the next available table and already seemingly waiting to pounce from the line.  Like queueing for yum cha or Mamak's roti, you may have to watch people eat and drink, but you are ready to order when you get a seat.   The food is served on wooden boards and one feels obliged not to waste time at your table, as you can see other eager beavers waiting outside.

A surprisingly delightful wall of elegant butterflies hides around the inside.

So is it worth the effort to make it in at last into the Societe?  The coffee is satisfying, as it should be.
Seasonal produce is emphasised here and so gives a bit of kick to the menu.  There is an Euro layer over the modern Aussie breakfast.   It provides for gluten free requirements, but do read the details below some interesting named items. It is open everyday from 730am-ish till early arvo.  There are Spanish, French, savoury and sweet themes in your choices.  There are both indoor and outdoor seating.   Service is mostly focused, with staff speaking professionally, although at times the food can take more than the usual wait time (hey, the kitchen area is not large).  I did notice that my deep fried roast chicken was a bit off that morning, but otherwise the staff were good despite the market crowd conditions.  I adored the taste of my hard boiled eggs and the avocado spread on my bread. The Societe can be akin to a warm gathering of school alumni members, each connected with their appreciation and love of food with Mediterranean influences and quality Australian ingredients.  Whether they are cold meats, vegetarian, marinated pickles, meringue, good old bacon or fancy garnishing, the Societe blends them into creative offerings.

More lunch than brunch - the big breakky board.

After an often wholesome meal at the Societe, practically you are liberated to delve into other business of the day.  You still recall the chorizo, infused teas or the gherkins. Why is there a cockerel at the front of the place, has to do with the French.  I love the hanging lamps, reeking of post-industrial, modern hype and thoughtful design - maybe some are hanging too low over the guests.
The Society obviously values turnover.  You go there in the midst of a busy schedule.  Even when friends catch up I notice a sense of urgency, you are not there to delve over your refined chocolate for hours.   This is a rare place that is not totally ethnic cuisine, yet not the usual big breakfast from home.  Therein lies the charm of the Hardware Societe, despite its occasional blips, people still have good perceptions and actual experiences of having something unique.  A Melbourne city lane life. The kind of people who gather there. All theses, in addition to the menu.

Counter position can be best if you want a more quiet ambiance, as tables can be packed together and you can watch the kitchen staff at work.

Two Birds One Stone - Toorak / South Yarra, Melbourne

Elegance of the interior even after a long day.



It is on a  side street away from the main strip of Toorak, but is walkable from the South Yarra Rail Station.
With two shop fronts, it is more spacious than most cafes.  There are high ceilings and the place is tastefully appointed but in a simple stark way.  Operating as a breakfast and lunch hub, there is a rather imaginative menu playing with the best of ingredients.  I was delighted with my omelette even if it was late arvo, light and fluffy with a yummy sensation every time I bit into the spanner crab filling.   Service is quick and with a smile on a late January day.  No high brow and stuffy nose, nor over worked rush with vacant looks from the staff.  They complement the Adriano Zumbo Patisserie next door.  After a meal, you are not far from the alternative retail delights of Chapel Street.

Spanner crab omelette garnished weight sweet chilli and fresh greens.




Its Claremont Street location can be busy during the core hours. There is a choice in seating arrangements from the expected high stools to tables for two, but I just adore the window side offerings.  The menu is categorised into sections but all items are available the whole day long.  Offerings that jump out of the menu are the salt cod and potato cake with wilted spinach; oat crumbed Irish themed Colcannon; sautéed mushrooms on brioche; and the Doughboy doughnuts.
Eggs are prepared and presented in a variety of ways with captivating freshness.

A relaxing ambience before closing time - before the Five Senses espressos arrive.