Ha Noi, Vietnam - City Vignettes

Above, in the early afternoon, a motor cyclist passes by a well maintained French styled colonial building in Ha Noi.  Below, the Presidential Suite at Hong Ngoc 2 Hotel in the Old Quarter.

Above, iced coffee, Viet fashioned, on small tables and with guests on low chairs, upstairs at a well patronised joint.
Below, buildings tend to have narrow fronts, long insides and border narrow streets  with overhead cables all over the place in the district known as 36 Streets or the Old Quarter, not far from Hoam Kien Lake.  The other major lake is the bigger West Lake, close to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and other government institutions.

Carved stone near the significant monument to a revered national figure, Ly Thai To, shows influences from China, Thailand and Cambodia, although all brought together with a niche Vietnamese feel (photo above).
Below, in a metropolis with at least 7 million people, Ha Noi's motor bikers are a varied lot- some with helmets, many using mobile phones whilst waiting at the set of lights, males observed also smoking whilst driving and some with covered mouth masks.

A placid and shady location (above)  with tourists strolling (below) along the shores of Hoam Kien Lake to survive the humidity of an early afternoon.  Ha Noi, sited in the north of Vietnam, does tend towards a more benign temperature in the winter  season of the northern hemisphere, especially when compared the country's tropical  south.

Ha Noi, Vietnam - Water Puppets

The Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre is a treat, with a performing arts form that is unique to Vietnam.  The theatre is located near the Hoan Kiem Lake, a gathering focal point for tai chi practitioners at dawn, strolling tourists and sitting locals in the afternoons and much vehicular traffic in the evenings.  Referred to as roi nuoc by the locals, water puppetry articulates themed plays symbolic of the tensions between  good and evil, illustrative of the history of the Viet peoples and demonstrative of the varied lifestyles and demographics in current day Vietnam.  The stage of water is usually four meters square and up to eight puppeteers are often involved in performances.

The ty ba, a light wood made instrument with four strings on its distinctive long neck, was played at our concert on a mid week evening, the final show of several during the day staged to packed audiences.  As evident in the accompanying photographs, this was not the only musical device or cultural accessory utilised.  The traditional singing of cheo ( a form of local opera) was pleasant, not jarring and the use of electronic screens with English subtitles is an excellent idea for the audience who come from diverse backgrounds.  Live music can be provided by an orchestra that uses cymbals, bamboo flutes, gongs,horns, wooden bells, the monochord and drums, all to back up the all important vocals.

Each performance was around an hour.   A captivating display of the puppets used can be viewed outside the auditorium.  The Thang Long troupe has performed around the world, including in Sydney, Australia. However, nothing beats enjoying the experience in its own locale.  The craft and art of puppets that dance on water originated in the Red River Delta in the northern part of Vietnam.  The wooden puppets are actually lacquered.

Hue, Vietnam - Making of Cone Shaped Hats

Referred to as "non la" or literally, leaf hat, in Vietnamese, such cone shaped hats protect the wearer from the harsh sun of the tropics and equatorial areas - and are seen through out most of South and south-east Asia. Comparable versions are also found in Korea and Japan with temperate climes.  With my travel mates, I had the opportunity to view how such hats were made in Hue in central Vietnam.

The natural  young leaves are gathered, softened by dew, dried or flattened by ironing or processed further by heating them over a charcoal flame pot ( in picture on the right, the green item).  This causes the leaves to transform into a light brown textured colour (photos below) before being placed  on a conical frame.  It is all hand made, a rarity in a world of fast turnover, manufactured processes and similar patterns and shapes.  The quality of such hats are judged by the regularity of the leaf arrangement, the absence of visible knots and the roundness of the resulting rim.

Paper cut patterns are placed over the set leaves (photo above) in a near final stage of the handicraft demonstration.   The leaves can vary in origin - they can be the bark of the Moc tree, bamboo or palm leaves.  The paper cuts are unique in the making of the Non Bai Tho or the poem hat, which are unique to the previously royal city of Hue - and their specialty is based on poem lyric lines or pictures of things that can only be seen through sunlight under the leaf layered sunk designs.  The significance of such conical hats is linked to the tradition of maternal love and the practice of padi growing in Vietnam.  Interesting enough, women wore more broad-rimmed hats than men.  I observe that the best cone shaped Vietnamese hats are made in Hue and no where else.  There can be a practical difficulty in packing such hats in airline baggage unless they are miniature versions bought as souvenir displays.

Sydney NSW - Christmas Time

Palomino Cafe along York Street near Wynyard Park has an extensive menu but really good coffee options.
Thier neighbour is  a business rival - a cafe called Loaf & Devotion.

Prawn flavoured stock soup with Hokkien noodles, spinach and hard boiled egg at the Malay Chinese Takeaway, Hunter Street.

Soothing candles greet guests at the entrance to La Rosa, serving unique Italian inspired dishes with a wine bar at the top floor of the Strand Arcade.  Personally I found no fault with their pig trotters, sans claws and bones, presented beautifully in a tender package and bathed with tomato based gravy.

The Circa Cafe in Parramatta at 21 Wentworth Street is tucked away in a hidden corner not far from the rail station and is popular with Gen Y all huddled on low chairs and tables in what seems to be a dingy street scene joint.  below, the Strand Arcade between Wynyard and Town Hall sections of Sydney and leading to either a main thoroughfare of George Street or the Pitt Street Mall.

Batemans Bay, NSW - Getaway Evening

Batemans is a lifestyle point on the South Coast of New South Wales, perhaps a third of the way ocean side from Sydney to Melbourne, definitely a summer gathering place for worn out city folk and twenty somethings wanting their share of surf, sun and slumber. Sited on the estuary of the Clyde River, the town is the largest on the NSW coast south of Nowra and the Shoalhaven. The Princes Highway bridge linking to the town has enabled more traffic from the north, perhaps a dubious decision to townsfolk who treasure their solitude and peace.  Canberrans also flock to the Bay as their nearest practical beach site, away from the oppressive temperatures of the inland Australian capital.  Named by Lt James Cook in 1770, Batemans boasts good oysters, unspoilt coastlines, interesting trekking possibilities and deep sea fishing.  In classic Australian stereotyped expectations from foreigners, yes, there also reside koalas, kangaroos, wallabies, parrots, bandicoots and possums.  Nearby Mogo has a zoo and mountains with names like Pigeon House beckon inland.  Batemans itself has a Birdland Animal Park and a golf course.  The nearest local airport is at Maruya to the south, around 45 minutes drive away.

I had the opportunity to spend an evening at Corrigan's Cove, located between the suburbs of Catalina and Batehaven when one drives along the coastal road. The accommodation stood out as being clean, well thought of and very comfortable.  The bed especially was a winner, high-ended, with fluffy pillows and with a flat TV monitor strategically placed for the ideal line of sight.  The bath had toiletries normally found in a  five star hotel. Morning breakfast offered a complimentary choice of cereal and coffee or tea, but if you prefer, cooked hot breakky only costs ten dollars.  Corrigan's is not far from the Batemans Bay High School, but in the other direction, guests can stroll, run or cycle along Beach Road beside sweeping bay views.  There are local cafes and restaurants within walking distance of the Cove, with ample vehicle parking space on the grounds of the resort.

Batemans is part of the Eurobodalla Shire and can have chilly nights in the southern hemisphere winter season.   That is when the pool decks at Corrigan's Cove can be empty (below) but there is always a cosy balcony to sip, sit and stare (photo above).   There are isles in the Bay itself, like the Tollgate. Montague Island, sited off Narooma further south, boasts Australian fur seals.  To the north, there is Mollymook, hosting Brit chef Rick Stein's Bannisters Seafood Restaurant; Jervois Bay National Park; the small fishing village of Milton; and Ulladulla.