St Honore CakeShop, Sydney Chinatown - Yum Cha Possibilities

I reckon the Cantonese egg tart (pictured above), or the tarn tart, available at most yum cha sessions and in southern Chinese styled bakeries, is an excellent example of cuisine fusion, at its best, or viewed at the other end of the spectrum, an illustration of copying the Portuguese tart sans the caramel sauce. Or is it actually the other way? Granted that the texture and flavour of the custard can be different between the South Atlantic and South China Sea versions, the pivotal evidence is in Macau's past, where Portuguese adventurers of old came aboard and colonised the place, married the native girls and the rest is history - Eurasians bearing Portuguese names but looking like the average Guangdong person perhaps. 

I was at the St Honore Cake Shop along Sussex Street in Sydney's Chinatown recently (near the side with Paddys Market and the Market City Shopping Centre).  I instinctively looked for my fav yum cha piece, the char siew sou, oven baked pastries with a savoury and yet sweet filling inside of cooked pork bits, diced carrots, spring onions, mushrooms and with a garnish. The proof of quality is in the pastry and how it melts in your mouth.  Some versions include lotus seed paste, peanut, green bean, walnuts and the chemically induced hundred year old duck egg slices, but I avoid those.   They are all topped up by a sprinkling of sesame seeds (image above) and best eaten freshly baked. Good as snacks for lunch time or with tea, they can be oily but definitely delicious when served warm.

Imagine sticky flour dough concealing a hollow or sweet inside, usually with bean or peanuty paste, and served in various colours. Attractive to kids, but they may not keep well for a long period.  This is southern Chinese jian dou or northern Chinese ma tuan (image above) with a crispy outer skin and a pick me up bite.  Its origins go back a  few hundred years from the Tang Dyansty with its capital at Changan.  It is a cousin of the Japanese goma dango and the Malaysian or Indonesian kueh bom.

Another pastry above, but this one has rather sweet centre of another paste and requires a good cup of Oolong tea to wash down with. In Cantonese, it is referred to as the sweetheart or wife's cake, an interesting label, as I do not reckon there is a husband's cake in Chinese bakery.  The outside has to be flaky, so that, unless we don't mind a mess, we have to be careful with this cake, as it breaks apart when consumed, revealing a rather veg sweet inner core.  yes, there is icing sugar used, together with candied winter melon, castor sugar, glutinous rice flour and butter.

I also saw another interesting wrap below at the St Honore Cake Shop.  This is the type of outlet, where you are encouraged to arm yourself with a pair of tongs and an empty tray. You go around the glass shelves, open them when some display attracts and you choose them for counting and billing at the cash register.  There are normally no sitting tables.

Imperial Kingdom Chinese Restaurant, Glen Waverley, Melbourne

I visited the Imperial Kingdom at Glen Waverly, not once but twice, within an auspicious weekend, once for yum cha one day and then for a wedding dinner another evening. I can remember how the restaurant was beautifully transformed for Maggie and Eu-Gene Yeap's dinner reception at this venue. The dishes were carefully chosen for good omen and brought out the best in what the Imperial could offer. Lobster, prawns, crispy chicken, delicious noodles and extensively decorated banquet tables (each with the piece de resistance being the variety of floral bouquets) remain delightfully in my heart and mind's eye.


You walk up a staircase under a cover and reach the foyer of the restaurant. The dining area sits on this upper level, so I could easily see the goings on around the nearby junction, highway and neighbouring activities. Having this so-called bird's eye view delightfully reassures one of securely seated in a strategic lookout, especially during the change of colours from twilight to night. Then vaguely familiar individuals and more reassuringly known friends from the Melbourne area turn up, all dressed up happily and smartly for the occasion. The tables are placed close to each other but then everyone expects that in a Cantonese themed restaurant.


Maggie and Eu-Gene had a lunch reception earlier that special day with a modern Australian feel, complete with the bridal dance, walking under a canopy and letting off some party shoot off cannons. Tonight it was more Canton, although many dressed in Western styles. In contrast, the atmosphere at yum cha time, back at the Imperial, reflected more of the everyday bustle of such meals across the Chinatowns and suburbs of the world. The service, as required and expected, is fast and the tasty servings make me wonder why at times do we need to go downtown for such fare (again). There is ample ground level open air parking for the restaurant, though I am not sure if there is a lift up to the first floor. The yum cha tables had more variety to fit various numbers of people, unlike the ten per table practice for wedding dinners.


Is yum cha better in Melbourne than in Sydney, or Hong Kong and Vancouver? I reckon it depends on what you order from the moving passer-by trolleys - I would identify with fresh ingredients, skill in texture and cooking and how they are kept ready for serving. The skins must not be starchy, the vegetables must be appetising, the deep-frieds not soggy. The choice of teas must be liberal. The decor is not critical, but the taste in your mouth and on your palate as you place that delicate creation for your experience. The variety of sauces available and the quality of cutlery, chopsticks and China often vary between an elegant place and an ordinary one.


At the Imperial Kingdom, I had occasion to try the mango pudding, char siew pau (steamed pork buns), rice noodle rolls (with prawns in soy sauce)- and loved them all. My impressions of the Imperial Kingdom in Glen Waverly, greater Melbourne, are:

Atmosphere: Noisy and crowded.
Location: Suburban.
Taste: No need to go down to Little Bourke Street in Melbourne CBD.
People Engagement: As in any medium to large sized Chinese restaurant.
Service: Satisfactory.
Best Time to Visit: Dinnertime.
Fav Dish Experienced: Char siew so (baked pork filling pastry)and claypot vermecilli with lobster. Would I Return?: Yes.

Lees Malaysian - Sydney CBD

In the heart of bustling Sydney's city centre lies the HSBC Centre, off George Street, and the street entry food court has a range of office lunch time food providers. The one special to my heart is nearest the main entry, a branch of Lees Malaysian, offering an equal mix of Chinese Australian dishes and Malaysian staples like curry laksa, satay skewers and the classic har mee (prawn sufficed stock soup accompanied by vermicelli or Hokkien noodles). In all these years, my penchant for their version of the har mee has not abated.  I recall with fondness even now, how I would ensure having this dish for dinner before going home to the Sydney suburbs. The bus stop I used was only a stone's throw away along Druitt Street and I would gingerly time myself for enough indulging in this dish before catching the public transport home. This outlet of Lees Malaysian also opens late to almost 7pm each weekday evening, so it was great to visit after work or gym.  Above image - the Mongolian lamb, a staple of Chinese food in almost every Australian town and city.

Satay, oh satay as it should be.   Juicy, tender and moist, exuding of the best parts of chicken or beef cuts (above), flavoured just right with a combination of spices and whiff of  lemon grass in the south-east Asian style.   The peanut and chili based sauce is most critical, adding to the sensation of well prepared and marinaded meat cubes melting in our mouths.  Below, an illustrative representation of what is referred to as dim sims Down Under, always deep fried, wrapped in batter or skins - picture below depicts the spring rolls and snack bites, always good with beer or tea.

Above , the dish that I clamour for, a sort of soul or comfort food from my childhood - the har mee.
Garnished with a variety of equatorial spinach (kangkong), graced by thin juicy slices of prawn and pork cuts and topped up by a sprinkling of crunchy deep fried shallots, the dish's ultimate taste and outcome is also influenced by the amount of chili paste condiment you prefer and adopt (on spoon in picture above). The soup is first served clear before you add your choice of how much of such a chili paste condiment you then stir in.  There is always a half boiled egg as well for this street food special is traditionally consumed at breakfast time.  Yummy yum, I am salivating as I write this piece.

There is a method to making the noodle soup, as evident by the display above at Lees Malaysian.

The ingredients are prepared in various ways - chopped, sliced  or julienned - before any cooking is done.  They may involve carrots, corn, green veg, cabbage, lettuce, mushrooms, cooked meats and more, and the image above reminds me of a Subway fast food outlet as well.

My overall impressions of the Lees Malaysian outlet, located at the HSBC Centre in downtown Sydney, are:

Atmosphere:  Office and student crowd.

Location:  City centre.

Taste: Good value.

People Engagement:  Food court.

Service: Quick and responsive

Best Time to Visit: 2pm to 7pm on weekdays

Fav Dish Experienced: Har Mee

Would I Return?: Always

Crown Palace, Forest Hill/ South Vermont, Melbourne

The Yeaps brought me to this suburban yumcha place when  I stayed with them. Crown
may look like the typical Chinese restaurant which could be anywhere in the middle of USA or in Australia. There is adequate vehicle parking outside and the Burwood Highway has passing traffic. 
Once you step inside, the staff are generally friendly, the service is mostly quick and the food
comes with a purposeful pace.  You can then be in Chinatown of a capital city, and the tasty
servings do suggest that.  There is however much less noise and chatter when compared to downtown precincts.  Apart from yumcha, they also serve other aspects of Cantonese cuisine.

Business starts early and the place gets going by 11am.  You have the choice of round tables for ten persons to be seated, or smaller tables for two. The restaurant may have decor that may hark back to an earlier, but the trolleys and trays bearing bites of food do testify to the authenticity and experience of the cooks. There is no new fangled fusion food, but true-to-the heart steamed and deepfried variations that would be original to Guangdong and Hong Kong. I particularly like the braised chicken legs, whether marinaded with light vinegar or soy sauce, and the classic siew mai, those dainty dumplings with fillings of meshed prawn, pork and carrot.  Another staple I look forward to are steamed kai lan vegetable leaves and stalks, tender, light and juicy, dressed with oyster sauce.

Chinese food in Australia has moved significantly away from the dimsims, Mongolian lamb and fried rice to the diversity that we see today in capital cities and their suburbs - for example,  hand made cold noodles, dumplings with hot soup inside and the elegance of quality Beijing duck cuts today.  We also get more choices than southern Chinese offerings to encompass various styles from north-east China, Central Asia and Taiwan.  The Crown was previously named the Han and has survived various industry trends, changing demographics and competition from other cuisines from around the world.

My impressions of the Crown Palace, located at where Forest Hill meets Vermont South in the greater Melbourne region, are:

Atmosphere:  Not too noisy

Location:  Suburban

Taste: Authentic

People Engagement:  Friendly with a smile

Service:  Quick and responsive

Best Time to Visit:  Weekday lunch

Fav Dish Experienced:  Braised Chicken Legs, with crunchy skin and cartilege!

Would I Return?:  Always

Balgownie Fish Shop, NSW

Latest Developments , December 2014 - It is confirmed that the location of the Balgownie Fish Shop
is earmarked for construction of a residential building.

I had passed by this main strip in Balgownie Village several times and observed the queue of customers waiting patiently outside this modest and unassuming shop on sleepy Sunday afternoons.
The Balgownie Fish Shop offers mainly hamburgers and fish & chip combinations. Gen Y Craig from up the street at my place had told me recently that in his view, this was the best fish and chips in this region of the Illawarra.  Wow, I had to try this, I thought, and when I did, it is indeed one of the best fish and chips I have tasted. Even if they are nearer the escarpment rather than by ocean side, one bite into the battered fish brings back memories of tender grills, newspaper wrappings and the aroma of the ocean.  Yes, my fish and chips were served on paper, a detail which is very important. Yes, it is open every day, including Sundays till 7pm.  The chips are rather better seen as wedges, thick, crispy, flavourful and a mouthful.

The inside of the shop is simple, harking back to the fifties, reminiscent of small towns, with a decor that is rather straight lined, with no seating or tables (except for a retro iron bench) and the compulsory drinks fridge. The customers feel relaxed and are casually dressed.  Even the main door has a netted lattice that keeps flies and insects out and reminds me of doors to a food cupboard rather than for an entrance to a shop.  The menu is neatly written in front of the counter.  I am so glad to know that such a gem exists in my neighbourhood. A friendly elderly couple run the operations, and despite being busy, smile when having a conversation and otherwise concentrate on their work. Do allow some time when visiting this shop and the reward of the meal shall be yours. Apparently they have run this shop for umpteen years, obviously having seen children grow up to be adults, taking in the parade of residents and visitors. The best way to locate this place at 166 Balgownie Road is that it is across the road from the Bally Hotel (or Balgownie Hotel), and past the newsagent as you walk up slope.  You can also phone in your orders, which are very reasonably priced.

My serving below - I consumed this after a passing heavy shower and when the sun unexpectedly broke through. Kids may note the bubble gum and lolly dispensers (above).  After collecting your orders, head towards a park to eat.

My impressions of the Balgownie Fish Shop, ten minutes north of Wollongong CBD ( or five minutes down the Mount Ousley slopes on the highway from Sydney), are:

Atmosphere: Quiet.
Location: Village.
Taste:  Melts in the mouth.  Best with beer, soft drinks or just water.
People Engagement:  Friendly elderly couple, with a throwback to 1964.
Service: Please wait for this experience, it is worthwhile.
Best Time to Visit: Early mid afternoon. Go in board shorts and thongs.
Fav Dish Experienced: Fish and chips.  No sauces required.
Would I Return?: Oh ya.