Kent Ridge Park, Singapore

The park may not fit the pervasive stereotyped perception of Singapore being an island of high rises, shopping centres and disciplined restrictions. Here, at the Kent Ridge Park in almost the centre of this city state, one can walk, mountain-bike, roam or run free under the shade of secondary equatorial forest trees, enjoy vistas of greenery and breathe in the air as Singapore founder Sir Stamford Raffles once did. Located near the higher education hub and the nearby campus of the National University of Singapore, the forty-seven hectare park provides twenty fitness stations for a refreshing and healthy time especially during early mornings and evenings. Acacias, tembusus, angsanas and dillenias predominate in the tree population.

Flora meant for lining public sites, roads and reserves are grown here (picture above) in one of the Government nurseries seen from a look out point at Kent Ridge Park.

Amidst all the greenery, we came across a low density apartment bloc known simply as the Peak. (above). I noticed the residents were mostly expats, and a couple of Eurasian children came out for a bicycle ride. Reminiscent of Hong Kong's Peak, the property commands a view of Singapore and the nearby isles. One can actually take the trail for over two hours from here, via the Alexander Arch, to reach the Henderson Waves Walk near Faber Park.

The calm of this park, replete with wild orchids and monkey cup plants, do not fully reveal that it was one of the sites for a significant British battalion during the Japanese occupation of Singapore, in the mid 20th century. A plaque in a car park commemorates the end of World War 2. Nearby South Buona Vista Road is the location of the battle for Pasir Panjang in 1942. Today Kent Ridge Park is a vital portion of the Singapore Park Connector Network project.

The battle for Bukit Chandu (Opium Hill in Malay) is marked by an interpretative centre in a well kept bungalow (pictures above and below). Here one of the fiercest battles was conducted by the colonial British Army and local forces before Singapore capitulated to the Imperial Japanese forces in 1942. Lt Adnan bin Saidi of the Malay Regiment is remembered as heroically leading his men in this battle.

Mangosteen Mania

Mangosteens hailed originally from the Moluccas Isles and the Sunda Islands in Indonesia, but can be easily available now in the rest of south-east Asia, usually as whole fruits at retail. The fun commences with hand opening the rather hard outer skin layer to get at its inner fruit, and the pleasure is in the milky white , juicy and somewhat fibrous fruit. I was told that Queen Elizabeth II graciously receives gifts of such crated fruits at Buckingham Palace each year.

Europeans generally baulk at the thorny, football sized, green coloured durian, but in contrast, they love the mangosteen. Queen Victoria reputedly offered a hundred pound reward in the 19th century to anyone who could deliver to her the fresh fruit of the mangosteen. The mangosteen tree can be tall and reach anywhere from seven to 25 metres. In Australia, it is now grown on a commercial basis in Queensland and the Northern Territory.

The purple coloured fruit has an outer skin layer that discourages infestation by insects, fungi or plant viruses whilst it is ripening. The top of the fruit has a clover like arrangement in light green where attached to a stem. This is my favourite tropical fruit, but I am always careful when taking in the juice of the luscious white inner fruit - their stains have to be washed immediately from fabric or clothes, as they are rather strong and sticky. What is the best way of manually opening a mangosteen? I hold the single fruit with both hands, and gently apply pressure from the sides, so as to buckle the outer purple coloured layer. Once this layer cracks up, I see the target - the moist, ripened white segments, slightly aromatic, definitely delicious.

Sembawang Park, Singapore

Sembawang lies on the north-eastern corner of Singapore Island. It has been associated with a massive shipbuilding industry for many years and still is. Named after a native tree, it used to host rubber estates and then a British naval base. Sembawang is sited next to Woodlands, best know as the northern suburb of Singapore that is linked to Malaysia through the Causeway and Malayan Railway. Above image, day fishermen have a whale of a time at a wharf that juts out towards Johor in Malaysia.

Sembawang Park (above) is not far from the shipyard (picture below). Interesting enough, there are many examples of Australian flora in this park, the most famous of which is the Bottle Tree, originally from Queensland. I am told that this tree no longer exists as I write, but there is also the Cannon Ball Tree still on site. There is also a hot springs on location for visitors. This far corner of Singapore is also accessible by MRT to Sembawang Town. You may come across many National Servicemen in this area, as the Naval Diving Unit and the 1st and 3rd Transport Battalion of the Singapore Army are also based here.

A bungalow previously housing engineers and other technicians working for the Sembawang Shipyard has been turned into a restaurant in Sembawang Park - the Beaulieu House (picture above). You can dine on Chinese seafood and European cuisine, with a view to the Johor Straits, in surroundings I can only surmise as retro. Beaulieu House was built by the David family who were involved in the mining business and then acquired by the British Navy around 1910.

The Beaulieu House offers several private function rooms, one of which, the Alfresco A & B, can seat over 200 people.

You can enjoy both European and local reflections inside the Beaulieu House - a touch of old England (above) and a restored trishaw (below).

Sembawang does provide a refreshing hideaway from most of contemporary Singapore. Standing by its shore, I am reminded of schoooldays on another tropical island not far north - Penang. Both provide provdie the setting for lazy afternoons when we could still be conscious of the laps of the gentle waters of a sheltered straits and when the cares of the world were just borne by others. You can go cycling or running in Sembawang, far removed from the trials and tribulations of share market movements or strategic-politcal dramas. It also offers insights into what greeted Sir Stamford Raffles when he eyed upon this island of Singapore and made him negotiate with the then Sultan of Johor to take over the island.

Hainan Chicken Rice - Wee Nam Kee, Singapore

I had always aimed to eat at Wee Nam Kee, after hearing through the grapevine and on the internet regarding its extra special renditions of the classic Hainan chicken rice, perhaps the national dish of Singapore. A family business, Wee Nam Kee has been digging its fans in since 1987, and when Mui Na suggested the branch along Thompson Road in Novena, I did not protest. My first experience there lived up to my expectations. The chicken is moist, flavourful and addictive. The rice is pleasant, tasty and tender. Some of my Aussie mates flinch at chicken served on the bone, but in this case, this is essential for the optimal taste to come out.

By noon on a weekday, the crowds had gathered - office workers, families, tourists like me mates and more. Initially I was curious why there were so many staff at this Wee Nam Kee joint - for a two shopfront place. I soon understood fast, as the lunchers quickly occupied all available tables ad people started forming a standing queue. Customers were not averse to sharing tables with strangers, and the crowd was as cosmopolitan as Singapore gets. I got hooked on the mild but delectable "water dogs" (siau kow in Cantonese) - steamed dumplings with pork mince with shrimp and vegetable ingredients inside (picture below).

One of the curiosities in this business is the need for customers to be there on a timely basis. Some dishes are not available if you come too early or too late. Interesting enough, there is a viable delivery service operated by Wee Nam Kee within Singapore Island. Other signature dishes for consideration are crispy roast pork, deep fried tofu, crispy stir fried kai lan greens (picture below), cereal prawns and another national icon for Singapore, the curry fish head. Master Chef Loh has been heading the kitchens of Wee Nam Kee for twenty years now, and outlets include a franchised outlet in Manila.

The ToastBox, Singapore

There are several businesses in Malaysia and Singapore these days specialising in providing the kaya toast, poached eggs and selected street food like chicken curry laksa - but all at higher price and with a supposedly higher ambiance than those original kopitiams dotted across towns and suburbs in the two nations. I was impressed with the atmosphere and service experienced recently at the ToastBox outlet at Bugis Junction in Singapore. Quick, responsive and friendly, the staff went about their work at this busy and strategically located shop along the main strip. The test was in the signature offering, two fresh soft boiled eggs with an engrossing bread slice smothered with coconut-based kaya preserve and local coffee. (picture above)

Local fare offered by the ToastBox (clockwise from 12 noon in picture above) includes dainty layer cakes, Swiss jam rolls, the traditional nasi lemak (coconut milk steamed rice eaten with condiments of deep fried anchovies, hard boiled eggs, sambal and cucumber slices) packed above in take away triangle folded banana leaves, flat packed glutinous rice accompanied by sweet and savoury shrimp paste, deep fried chicken wings, egg custard and a whole chocolate cake.

Thee are various options available in how you can have your toast and eat them too - please refer to image above. I chose the toast with a spread of otak otak, the fish mousse found in most of South-east Asia from Chiengmai to Bali. (picture below) Other toppings used to spread on their thick toast bread are butter milk, spicy shrimp paste, ice cream, floss and tom yam flavoured garlic. ToastBox as a business has been operating for several years now and is associated with the owners of BreadTalk, another chain specialising in offering freshly baked pastries and tea time snacks. ToastBox also sells Nanyang coffee powder, their bottled kaya preserves ala Hainan style and peanut butter. They have outlets across most of East Asia, from China to Thailand and the Philippines.