Last Train Out of Singapore - Tanjung Pagar

The governments of the two nearby nations of Malaysia and Singapore have agreed to terminate, by mid-2011, the

historical rail service from Tanjung Pagar in downtown Singapore to Johor Baru, capital city of Johor State on the Malaysian Peninsular. This railway line has been etched in the memories of many, for those who came from British Malaya to find their fortunes in the island of Singapore; of those who went through the harrowing and challenging days of Japanese-occupied World War 2; for countless backpackers in the seventies and eighties of the last century; and to many foreigner tourists for which this stretch of the journey heralded the start of the Oriental Express to Bangkok. Amongst all these individuals are the forebears of many who hailed from or migrated to and settled in Australia and New Zealand in the past thirty years. Many war veterans of these two Antipodean countries knew this railway well as young blokes - on the dark side, it was their commencement of the trip to the intern camps maintained by the Imperial Japanese Army along the River Kwai in Thailand.

The colonial symbol of transport (above) sculptured on one for the four pillars at the entrance to the Tanjung Pagar rail station on the southern end of Singapore Island.

The ticketing counter of the Tanjung Pagar Station (below) has been maintained by Malaysian staff of the KTM, the government body that currently runs the railway network on the Malaysian Peninsular - and successor to the Malayan Railways under British colonial rule before 1957. The station has high ceilings, white-wash facades and has an ambiance not changed since the 1960s. It is kept spotlessly clean like the starched garb of officials who came from England and Scotland to serve the Empire.

Food outlets at Tanjung Pagar (literally meaning the Hedged Cape) include

Indian inspired rotis, freshly made through the twirling of the dough on a hot plate (below), a fascinating start to the Oriental Express adventure up north to Thailand.

A train passenger gets through Singapore immigration and heads towards the train platform.

The train journey north to the Malaysian border hardly requires an hour.

Last Train out of Singapore - The Ride

From Tanjung Pagar station, we chugged along along the rail tracks to Woodlands, going north across the island of Singapore, surrounded by strips of bush, mostly tropical plants, including banana trees, herbal species and leafy shrubs. Beyond the bush, we could spot modern day housing estates, primarily high rises, but accompanied by meticulously laid out gardens, lawns and running tracks.

(Image above credit to Ms Lim Bee Keok)

Every passenger (above) is required to get out of their coach at Woodlands, located at the central northern tip of Singapore Island. This is to enable stamping of passports before returning to the allocated train seats and the crossing of the short Causeway bridge between Singapore and Malaysia (across the narrow Straits of Johor).

End of our short dash - we arrive in Johor Baru rail station (above and below).

Many thanks to especially Bee and Kit for suggesting and organising this unique experience.

Singapore - Liang Seah Street

I am always thrilled and inspired by the facades of the upper levels of the terrace houses along specific streets in several cities - and a good example is along Liang Seah Street near Bugis in the city state of Singapore. There is no allowance for urban decay here - no matter how charming this can be to outsiders.

Liang Seah Street is primarily a food gathering hub for the locals, and specialises in East Asian steamboat, Singapore's iconic rice served with roast meats or the Hainan chicken and Taiwan styled desserts.

And what delightful desserts they can be. Karen and Chet first took me to discover the variety and subtlety of the offerings, and I have been back whenever I can. Above, the durian snow cone - simply irresistible. Fresh durian heaped atop ice shavings and more. Liang Seah Steet outlets are mostly open till midnight. A few weeks ago, Ming and I enjoyed the snow cone - also available with other fruits - before he went on to the UK and I was enroute to Penang Island.

Georgetown's Straits Quay

The layout, the accessories and the mood created evoke tropical living at its best. With wooden panels and designs, use of diverse fabric and murals that suggest a rich and exotic past, the place beckons one to come home with promises of cocktails under twilight and snug togetherness listening to the soft swish of the sea tide.

Bedrooms open away to the outdoors, be they the rhythms of cicadas in the gardens or a run under swaying palms. There are balcony partitions to rest tired legs upon and verandas to while away the time reading on sleepy afternoons. Cushions are comfortable and the carpets and rugs kept purposely light. Humidity is kept at bay by the high ceilings.

The baths provide for his and hers. There are suggestions of old London, but not quite.

Glass doors allow freedom and shared intimacy.

Marble tops, hidden shelving and straight lines try to minimise possible clutter in the kitchen.

Lighting can be subdued or highlighted, but never to take away the limelight of shared experiences with family and friends creating, transforming and making delicious outcomes.

The guest room allows the wind under the curtains, and the porcelain carefully placed to remind us of the fragility of soothing times away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. All these where the Straits of Penang meet the Andaman Sea.

Dishes with Good Vibes

Steamed fish, be it be snapper, barramundi or garoupa, indicates lightness, liveliness and vitality.

Freshness is joined with subtle flavours from the garnishing, and together they emphasise the Cantonese penchant for delicacy, aroma and meaning.

Prawns, often in various choices of marinade, are significantly served at happy occasions and to mark festive moods. They are preferred served in bright colours of orange or red, or combined with garnishings of fresh herbs. The word for prawns in Chinese resembles the peal of laughter, hence the use of such crustaceans on dinner tables for Chinese banquets, and in Australia, throwing a shrimp or prawn at the barbie is integral to suburban life.

The ang ku, or literally red tortoise, is made especially for occasions to mark births, weddings and engagements. It is based on Fujian practices in southern China transplanted to the Straits Chinese community around South-east Asia - and the tradition continues in migrant families around the Western nations at the beginning of the 21st century. The above servings, containing bean paste inside, were made by Mrs Ellen Thien.

Beijing duck wraps, served as entrees or at the start of banquet dinners, originated from northern Chinese climes, but have spread around the world as a delicious finger food, smacking of savoury, topped up by sweet hoisin sauce and given a crunchy kick by eating them with fresh strips of Lebanese cucumber.

In the image above, accompanying the duck, on the upper right, are wanton bites, deep fried to a crunchy and delicious finish.

Lychees in red, and sweet to suit the summery weather for a southern hemisphere or tropical Lunar New Year, are preferred in dessert concoctions, whether served as a punch or cocktail, provided together with lychee fruits and colourful jelly in an ice cubed bowl.

The above images were captured in the home of Mr and Mrs Chris and Charmaine Wan in Chatswood, NSW.