Sunday, 13 February 2011

Penang Island - Scenes from Black Water Village




Air Itam (Indonesian or Malay literally for 'Black Water") is nestled below the central spine hills of Penang island, at the north-west corner of the Malaysian Peninsular and lying between Phuket and Pangkor Isles.

A densely populated suburb not far from Penang's capital city of Georgetown, Air Itam is also the site of the Kek Lok Si, one of the largest Buddhist temple and monastery complexes in Asia. Just below this complex is one of the most lively market conurbations in Malaysia - and when you visit in the early hours after dawn, you are treated to a lively spectacle swirling with people, produce and practicality.












Penangites love their easily accessible snacks, with traditional Straits Chinese cakes (or kueh) above, made fresh each day and very affordable in costs, leading the popular choice. Left to right, steamed and airy light huat kueh in pink and the ang ku (or literally, the red tortoise) in the centre tray. Each bright red coloured ang ku sits on a small piece of banana leaf and is both savoury and sweet in taste, being made of cooked yellow bean paste and wrapped inside dough.










Like in any Italian pasta, Shanghai mien or Osaka ramen outlet, the making of fresh noodles, in this case egg noodles in Air Itam, constitutes a labour of passion and attention. White flour permeates, cutting of the dough is precise and fingers are flexible to add to the flurry of activity.










Patterns and designs from a paper lantern (above) and below, the Malaysian cousin to the Queensland paw paw. Both were on open display as you stroll past the myriad of sights, sounds and items on sale.










Below, a scene comparable to dunking doughnuts. The crisp and freshly made dough-based deep fried stick (yau chiow kuai in Cantonese) is given a soak of thick black coffee. This is a particularly popular practice at breakfast time at various street corners and coffee shops in places like Thailand, Vietnam and Hong Kong.



















An ubiquitous snack (above) is the light weight apong, or pancake, swerved flat or in rolls. They have to be eaten fresh and preferably with fingers.














Typical of any south-east Asian market, those in Air Itam have both essential ingredients like dried shrimps (above) and startling offers like live frogs on display (below).

















The entrance to another market in Air Itam (above) can lead to eye openers and organic produce (below).

















Welcoming The Lunar Year of the Rabbit




Abalone strips adorn vegetables and garnishing on plate in foreground above.






Steamed sago bubbles are bathed in a mixture of coconut milk and sweet Malacca palm sugar (above).

















Above, roast duck cutlets ala Hong Kong from the Asian roast meat outlet in Sydney's suburbs.

Below, the Straits Chinese favourite of lobak, deep fried spring rolls wrapped with both vegetables and meat.

















The yee sang, or literally fish alive, is made only at Lunar New Year time.

Basically a sashimi salad, laced with fine strips of various carefully selected ingredients like pomelo grapefruit bits, crunchy stuff and salmon pieces, the mixture creates different sensations for the palate. Families and mates gather around this dish, each person with a pair of chopsticks on hand, to collectively stir through this concoction in a symbolic act of generating dynamic wealth and health.








All dishes above were photographed at the home of Susan and Boo Ann Yap in Carlingford, New South Wales on 2 February 2011.

Georgetown's Hotel Penaga

The penchant for boutique residences, holiday lifestyles and heritage restorations all meet at a junction along Hutton Lane in the old quarter of Penang Island's Georgetown. A whole block of early twentieth century double storey terrace houses has been renovated and rebuilt into a unique experience for visitors seeking an alternative to hotel chains that apparently offer more of the same around the world. Low rise in structure, utilising lots of dark coloured wood panelling and suggesting an ambiance of times gone past, the Hotel Penaga infuses and blends both its external and interior decor with memories of British, Straits Chinese and Malay influences - much like this tropical isle itself is.
















There are the obligatory bar and dining areas - with names like Tanglong (meaning 'Lantern") and stark white tablecloths. We had martinis, tia marias and cofffee. Also on the bar list were Pims and Bombay Sapphires.

Outside, a south Indian coffee shop was chock-a-block with youths watching intently a football match on the ESPN channel. Light rain moistened the tarred roads outside, matching the rather quiet elegance of the hotel functional rooms inside.












Antique Straits Chinese window frames form the center piece as one checks into the lobby. There is generous use of stained coloured glass, brass knobs, ornamental lamps and carvings inspired by the likes of the Malayan peninsular and Bali. Looking from outside, some of the character of the original British Malaya architecture is retained, although now topped up discretely by hints of southern Chinese roof styles. There may be plumbing issues to over come though - the taps were not exactly user friendly when we visited.








Hotel Penaga has attempted to evoke a time of when tea and pepper merchants crossed paths with colonial government servants, South-east Asian royalty and Australian naval officers. Today it tries to lure bond and currency traders, political brokers, internet professionals and new China hands to its corridors.














To Declutter

  There are things I should have started long ago to clear up. I am good at putting in one place unfinished tasks.    Written lists of quest...