Kurtosh House No 5 - Wollongong NSW

An amazing world of well crafted culinary gems for morning or afternoon gatherings.

With an Eastern Euro feel, founded by Israeli and French entrepreneurs, staffed by friendly Aussies and with a branch found in a regional city. What more could I ask for, but wait there is more...the Kurtosh No.5 (in the context of the greater Sydney area anyway) is located in a  literally, figuratively and trendy cool place, beside Globe Lane in the CBD, an offshoot from the pedestrian Crown Street Mall.

 This cafe has  a long shape inside, so deep far in that a couple could while away long hours without being interrupted.  Its entrance is not so obvious but provides two choices, one to the amazing display of its produce and creations, with another allowing customers to push baby prams in.    A clue -it is opposite the San Churro and adjacent to His Boy Elroy.   Inside there are dim lights, darkened brick in the raw walls and cosy tables.

The barista's den.

What does the word Kurtosh signify?  I can think of the KurtosKalacs, once a festive treat and a favourite of Hungarian nobility, now more accessible in a rich and modern world - the stacked chimney pastries.  These are barrel shaped dough snacks with a truncated cone made from hard and dry yeast dough, eggs, salt, flour, sugar, milk and butter - a signature dish of the Szeklerland region.    There is  caramelised sugar glaze over this Transylvanian creation, which is also available in the other Kurtosh cafes in Surry Hills, Balmain, Randwick, Darlinghurst and Crows Nest.   The KurtosKalacs also was a commonly shared and strong symbol of Szekler culture when Szeklerians were being driven away by the Tartars in one period of European history.

When asked what type of cakes do they make, on my very first visit a month ago,  the clever staff member said,  "these are cakes like what Grandma used to make".   Hey, that set the standards, the expectations, the mystery and the fun.    The very first things that caught my eye were the brandy choc balls, round and perfect basking under the display lights.   Croissants and the Babka loaves  look crisp and fresh  - an idea for an early drop by and fast take away?    Provide Kurtosh four days notice and they can help in decorating your festive occasion cakes.  There are fudges, cheesecakes, biscotti  -  things sprinkled with nuts, seeds and most important of all, love.

Colours are bold, the atmosphere is mellow and the coffee is uplifting.

So even if I felt I was in Budapest inside the cafe, the variety of biscuits, cakes, pastry another delights extend beyond Eastern Europe.  It also brings back to the days when dainty cakes were sold by the weight, a good idea to return to, with the customers having fun deciding the amount to partake with coffee on site and /or to take home.  And the coffee.....it is the Mecca blend.    What also captivated  my group of three was the spanking modern multi-tiered oven.  Teacraft teas can be selected by those who abstain from coffee.

The barista has a separate counter from the cake display, another idea that makes sense.   There is  a unicycle from England hidden behind a wall inside.  We are cocooned from the world outside, we can concentrate on the cake slices in front of us and we relish every bite, every savour, especially of the quality chocolate.  I especially am a  kid in a proverbial candy shop, the varying texture  and sensations in my mouth most appreciated, most important.

Spinach filling, sesame seed coated - a snack that is warm, fulfilling and easy on the palate.

The blonde-brown haired guy at the cakes counter was enthusiastic in explaining to us what we could have.
The barista made the coffee fast, there was no delay, even if the place was filling up on an early Sunday afternoon. Could we take part of a cake home?   I feel particularly blessed, here was a stand out bakery only ten minutes by car from home and here I was, digging into cake samples with great company.

There were no vehicle parking issues, in fact I could have taken the free Gong shuttle to this heaven.  The Kurtosh here is open every day.  Katie and Scott shared my passion for the cakes chosen.  There are also gluten free fruity sponge cakes.  So much variety and even if one drops by every week for just one selection, it may take a year to complete trying the display.  The Kurtosh offers generous samplings at the entrance and this is a great idea to get our appetites going.

Clockwise a sampling - carrot cake, dark choice, raspberry and a layered one with white chocolate.

Big Tree House Cafe, Rydalmere NSW

The yummy Eggs Benni for breakky.

It is a delightful to find a city centre styled cafe in the north-western Sydney suburbs.  Vehicle parking is much easier, the Opal card relevant bus from both Parramatta and Eastwood does pass by on the adjoining Park Road (but alas only on weekdays) and there is a train station at Dundas (but on  the much maligned City Rail Carlingford line, with not very regular trains and the need to change at Clyde).   

Putting all these minor transport irritations aside, I reckon the Big Tree House is a gem of a place, with a relaxed atmosphere, tree lined roads, friendly staff, Campos coffee and a variety of creative menu items for breakfast, brunch and lunch.  The setting is residential but the mood can be hipster in an area bound by Kissing Point and Victoria Roads.   My experience there has been its popularity with youngsters, families, hipsters, trades, business twosomes, women's groups, mates and dates.

Spaghetti with prawns, rocket, sourdough, cheese and a squeeze of lemon.

There are not many items on the menu as I reckoned, but several specific items stand out.  

Goats on Toast and the Big Tree House Burger are its signature offerings, with the latter having its cheese and aioli plus pineapple and beetroot raising the taste stakes.   The Goats On Toast is the main reason to check this place out - organic nuts sit on the bed of sourdough, and the French goats cheese has drizzled honey on the side.

I highly recommend its unique prosciutto and melon sandwich, even if you are not in  hurry, for this is one to savour and experience.    A preferred choice especially with my female friends is the fresh prawn and mango salad -  and this creative offering here comes with avocado, cucumber, passion fruits sauce and pickled ginger, a touch of Asian and a touch of fusion.   Accompany all this with a Virgin Grape Mojito!   The attention to detail at the Big Tree House comes off as a significant point in its menu and presented dishes.

For brunch or breakky, I love the corn fritters, lovingly served with tomato relish, poached egg, avocado and bacon.  Another special treat, which I am eyeing, is the asparagus and saute mushroom, drizzled with truffle oil and accompanied by the ubiquitous poached egg and mushroom bites.   The croissants have double smoked ham and Swiss cheese inside, part from the home made Big Tree House jams.

Sweet-tooths have two recommended choices - first in the ricotta pancakes, swiped with honey cinnamon butter and served with caramelised banana;  and second, but not least, in the Brioche French Toast, which comes with fresh berries, maple syrup and vanilla Mascarpone.

Counter view, the barista machine and the board menu.  Help yourself to drinking water on the left.

The main counter lets you see through the kitchen, often abuzz with preparation, garnishing and presentation.   There are a few tables only the pavement, the cafe faces houses and I prefer indoor seating.   Customers are comfortable to while away chatting within their own space, young mummies bring in their welcome infants and kids.  You serve your own drinking tap water at the side and the food comes in a timely manner.  

The young barista Paul is enthusiastic and chats with lunchers with a smile.  A central bar top has reading materials placed.  I felt as if I had dropped by a mate's place, the feel is wooden rustic.  Next time it's onwards go for the three mushroom crepe!

Big Tree House Cafe88 Calder RoadRydalmere NSW 2116Nearest Cross road - set of lights with Park and Calder RoadsClosed on TuesdaysOtherwise open from early morning till around 4pm.

Din Tai Fung - Miranda Fair Sydney

Busy in the open view kitchen - the emphasis on freshness is not just in the ingredients but also in the preparation.

Taiwan styled Dian Xin* can be different from the Cantonese Dim Sum*, although both expressions in variations of the Chinese language refer to the ritual of partaking in and sampling small tapa-like dishes for variety in flavours and texture.  Historically such get togethers were meant for the early morning, with modern society norms and pressures extending it to a brunch and lunch thing.    Din Tai Fung and Shanghai-inspired outlets around the world have extended the availability of such food for evenings these days, although with a stop for the staff after 3pm and before 530pm each day.

The other noted difference is that such "touch of the heart" cuisine offering restaurants as a general practice do not allow table bookings - customers come as you are and then only we shall seat you, perhaps reflecting the Asian penchant for best facilitating revenue turnover, but also removing the potential conflicts in misunderstood communication, errors in bookings and so forth. Yum cha is another expression referring to drinking tea, which are de rigour in such places, but these days alcohol is also available in licensed places.
* literally "touch of the heart".

Soy sauce marinated chicken.

Din Tai Fung is a most familiar name in this space, modernising the traditional tea house, keeping younger generations interested and ensuring a simple but fresh menu.  Outside the Asia-Pacific, where it operates currently in nine nations, it can also be found in the USA.

The outlet at the southern Sydney Shire of Sutherland has two levels, is part of a well customised shopping centre and makes an Asian foray into an otherwise mainstream Australian demographic.  Here the choices are not restricted to purely Dian Xin items - there are also offering that are usually found at dining time, like those I expect to be accompanied by steamed rice.  Service is efficient, you are given a paper checklist to tick what you want and the literal steam from bamboo baskets add to the theme and ambiance.

A Taipei favourite - bread spicy mix crumbed fried chicken.

Some people do find the food bland and underwhelming, having to dip into sauces instead of enjoying the original flavours of each dish.    Having said this, I do recognise the importance of the sauce quality as well - they often give a swirl of sour, sweet, salty and spicy in the mouth.

I am happy the food does not make me thirsty two hours after I take it, as can be experienced in some other places.  It is an art to retain the subtlety of Dian Xin offerings and this is best evident when using fresh produce.  An example of this is the hand pulled noodles, served with a marinated soy sauce mix or in soups -  this  is a staple of mainland northern Chinese food, akin to breads for European populations.  It is said that if frozen meats, seafood or veg are utilised, this can be easily picked up in steamed dumplings.   Think of the signature dish Xiao Long Bao at DTF -  they are steamed pork  buns with a twist, hot soup inside the steamed dough.  Every ingredient is a subject for flavour, texture and skill.

Interesting enough, this one item - the Xiao Long Bao - is said to be the dish that launched a thousand possibilities for Din Tai Fung.  It gave the business a turning point, changing the original trade in cooking oils.  Talk of change management, business continuity and sheer grit - the founder Yang Bing Yi and his wife never looked back after getting into the Dian Xin line of business.

Steamed dumplings, with usually shrimp and pork inside - a common feature in Cantonese, Shanghai and Beijing cuisines.

So what is so different from this cuisine from the Hong Kong and Guangzhou fare?   Perhaps the availability of mung bean noodles (Xiao Chi), the chicken soup, the Xiao Long Biao and the Taiwan-styled drinks.  Its Silvercord branch in Hong Kong was awarded one Michelin star.  There is a strict monitoring to ensure that every dumpling pastry made has to be weighted between 4.8 and 5.2 grams when prepared.