People, Planning and Performance

So the cabin crew lady forgets, or omits, to bring you the juice you have asked for two times, even with your fellow passengers being aware of this.  This is on Silk Air between Penang and Singapore on the scheduled 1215pm flight on 28 February 2015.  Aw, is this only a minor thing?

However, on a later connecting flight, its parent airline, Singapore, consistently provides quality customer engagement, whether for business class or economy class passengers, on the flight sector between Singapore and Sydney.  The cabin crew members on the upper deck of the Airbus 380 exude greater training, better personality, show initiative and reach out beyond their mere job role on this overnight flight of SQ221, arriving at Sydney Airport around 735am on Sunday 1 March 2015.  The on-board in-flight entertainment facility was out of action for a while mid-flight, but I reckon no one passenger was bothered much.  This is because the overall flying experience with SQ on this flight was good, primarily because its attending staff knew how to respond in micro situations as well when interacting with passengers. And technically Singapore has always been ahead of its competitors in technology - on that flight we could send text messages from our smart phones and for a fee, have access to the internet.  Most important of all, the pilots handled the rather disturbing turbulences pretty well for short periods over certain portions of sea and land.

What makes the difference, in the level and nuance of service between two airlines, echoes the varying levels of focused business management, not only at the operational level, but also reflects the implementation of effective strategic values transformed to staff behaviour.    Every one would have experienced the ineptitude of airline staff who seriously believe they are more important than passengers, mainly because of the me me me emphasis when they grew up and in how they are trained for their job.  I have seen Silk Air ground crew at Penang Airport asking couples with infants to line up with the rest of the queue - hello?  At the same time, they did not know how to optimally handle those irritating passenger types who on arrival at the gate lounge, walk up to the counter demanding they get to board first, when the aircraft is not even ready and has to be cleaned.

Ground staff representing airlines are the first point of impression for their customers, as these are the very first people customers see and interact with, whether upon checking in or when waiting to board. I witnessed such a ground staff member shouting to passengers because a boarding area in  Sydney International Airport does not provide simple microphone facilities for the boarding gate for an Airbus 380 flight. Whether such  staff individuals are from an outsourced contract arrangement or full employees for the airline is not relevant.  Airline management must negotiate better with the management of whatever airport in the world to understand better what a passenger goes through in utilising services for which they have prepaid.

Why does Changi Airport in Singapore open the gates to A5 in Terminal Three so late these days?  Is it cost saving or for a more rational reason? When passenger numbers build up for the hand luggage security check, the risk of stress, over crowding and rushing late passengers increases dramatically.

A flight from Penang to Singapore is officially and technically by all counts a trip between two separate countries.  I cannot for several years and even now fathom why the Silk Air ground crew checking in passengers at Penang Airport cannot open their counters at the very latest two hours before flight time.  Are they subconsciously treating such flights as more of within domestic counter opening times?

I am thankful for safety and security aspects promoted and practised on airline travel. However, personal, corporate and community attitudes can vary in making the passenger experience a rather varied spectrum.  For example, when one is used to punctuality, it can be unnerving to watch laid back attitudes cause issues which logically impact negatively on the passenger experience.  Passenger numbers have escalated, revenues have risen and yet service is getting patchy in the new age of airline travel, whether with budget airlines or not.  Reasons for delays in and hiccups to commercial airline travel due to weather risks are most acceptable; those relating to human service gaps, bureaucracy and lack of professional behaviour are not.  You may only want to fly with one specific airline, but practical code-sharing these days can really mean you actually fly with other airlines on certain sectors of your ticket, even if you want to avoid such a specific other airline.

Positive attributes for example are shown in carefully selecting the path on how an aircraft takes off or lands.  Subject to the permission of the related local airport authorities, it is appreciated when the pilot of your commercial aircraft flies over close to a rather uninhabited isle that you have always wondered about and now get to view. Thai Airways allow you to view the camera panorama from the pilot's cockpit.  Some considerate pilots mention on the PA system when the plane is flying over significant landmarks. Fun aircraft pre-takeoff videos for passengers are a welcome feature of Air New Zealand flights.  Helpful ground crew provided for arriving transit passengers from long haul flights are a privileged experience, not a standard any more.  A smiling steward who speaks clear English even if it is not his mother tongue on Emirates is not to be taken for granted. The varied backgrounds of Cathay Pacific crew resonates well with their multi demographic passenger profile.

Helpful security check officers are desired instead of those treating passengers in a condescending manner.  I have heard accounts by passengers, at Sydney International Airport, who have had their hand luggage taken by other unauthorised passengers or go missing, whilst such items are supposedly under security scrutiny on the first entry security check machines and conveyor belt.  What is more critical is how such passengers were treated when they realised that their hand luggage had gone missing. I have not heard such negative accounts from people who go on domestic flights within Australia.

Go figure.

Golden Phoenix Cantonese Restaurant, Equatorial Hotel - Penang

Abalone, sea cucumber and all that to restore the body's inner health.

Penang's Chinese demographic  cannot shake off its penchant for the three treasures at each restaurant dinner - the marinated cut chilis, the garlic and the soy sauce.

Rice noodles - the sar hor fun - with a mocktail.

Delicately braised tender scallops served with steamed broccoli.

The Beijing duck, accompanied by wraps and a light pomelo and prawn cold salad.

Types of Chinese smoked tea, taken hot without any other addition to taste, palate and texture.

Birds nest soup in a light broth of coolness.

Celebrating the seventh day of the Chinese New Year, traditionally to commemorate the birth of humankind, my group had an elegant experience of what Cantonese can do in cuisine.   We aimed for things away from the usual banquets that are served all over the city, the country and really, the East Asian region and south-east Asia in these two weeks of festive delight, gatherings and celebration. We did not want the roast meat nor the noodles laden with seafood. We wanted something more delicate, creations that made more use of the inherent flavours of ingredients and showed the potential of carefully combined items when served on a plate.

We had contrasts of duck with a light pomelo laden salad.  The unavoidable gaminess of an essentially wet fowl has been balanced with the freshness of a rather light citrus!   We are against the harvesting of sharks fins, so we chose the restorative powers of other sea creatures.  We wanted each dish to have meaning to mark the arrival of another Lunar New Year.  And we still wanted to eat a share of greens.

There is a long standing proverb in China that it is fortunate to be born in Guangzhou, for its cuisine has reputedly been the best in over a thousand years. Harmony is desired in all eastern Asian cultures, the perpetual balancing of the yin and yang. Even when partaking food at the table, Chinese all over the world consider their cultural heritage.  This is especially appreciated as we look over the past and focus our eyes and heart to the future. We are so through the festive rush, as epitomised by the traffic, vehicle parking and noisy dinner halls - but we relish the opportunity to meet, synchronise hearts amongst long standing friends and have a reunion with family and more.

George Town, Penang - Street Food in the Morning

CHAR KOAY TEOW

Char Koay Teow - significant are the subtlety in fresh ingredients, how they are sliced, clever use of the wok heat and the texture of rice noodles.
Every Penangite has his or her own preference of how you want this dish, so go for your inner heart in whether you prefer it a bit wet with scrambled eggs, or take with fancy seafood or go with the basics - Cantonese sausage cuts, fresh springy bean sprouts, pork lard bits, garlic accentuated flavours and with kuchai greens.  The version shown above was captured by me at the Padang Brown food stalls which are open from late morning till sold out - my rating is 6.5 out of ten.  Padang Brown, named after colonial figure David Brown, is a rectangular field surrounded by Anson, Perak and Datuk Keramat Roads.

Suggested Other Sources of Char Koay Teow:

1. Ah Leng Char Koay Teow, at the Khoon Hiang Cafe, corner of Merican and Datuk Keramat Roads, a good stop by on your way to the Kek Lok Si Temple Complex in Air Itam (Black Water Village). Visit this stall early, as on popular days the stall is closed by 1pm.  They have versions with duck egg or large mantis shrimp. (Please note that in the evenings the father of the family running Ah Leng, Mr Teoh Koon Leng, runs his pop up char koay teow stall in suburban Air Itam from 5pm in the evenings at Lorong Zoo 6, opposite a seafood restaurant.).
2.  Road side push cart hawker at Siam Road - the veteran cooks using traditional charcoal, so the taste is enhanced and special as opposed to gas cooked food.ö
Available from 2pm till sold out.
http://kindlyyours.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/classic-georgetown-charcoal-fired-wok.html

3. CKT stall at the corner coffeeshop Sin Guat Keong, Kimberly and Cintra Streets in the Chinatown section of the UNESCO designated heritage area. Open from 530pm to midnight every evening.

We arrived too early for the char koay teow stall to open in the evening from 5pm - corner of Kimberly and Cintra Streets  in the heart of Chinese Georgetown.

BARISTA COFFEE

More significant than just providing wi-fi, service engagement and cafe location is the the aroma and play on your taste buds from the so many blends of barista coffee these days.  Philip suggested the SiTigun Cafe at 30 Nagore Road near the New World Park hawker and restaurant hub (cafe closed on Mondays). I tried the Sicilian ice coffee blend and it was above satisfactory, robust in aroma, strong in taste and made well to quench the thirst on a humid morning.  We also got to unexpectedly enjoy a live lion dance performance across the road through a heritage styled window frame.  I enjoyed this coffee - my rating is 7.5 out of ten.

Suggested Other Sources of Barista made Coffee:

1. Coffee Atelier, 47-55 Stewart Lane, behind the Goddess of Mercy Temple  (within the UNESCO designated heritage area)  Open every day from 830am till late.
2. ChinaHouse, 183B Victoria Street  (also accessible from 153-155 Beach Street) near Penang Harbour. Open every day from 10am till late.
3. Moustache Houze, 24 Campbell Street (within the UNESCO designated heritage area)  Open every day but usually from 4pm.
4.  Twelve Cups, White Aways Arcade, 12 Beach Street  (in banking district, near the cruise passenger terminal and Queen Victoria Jubilee Clock Tower and within the UNESCO designated heritage area) Open every day from 10am till late.
5.  Bibi's Fashion Bakery and Cafe located in a bungalow at 87D Kelawai Road at corner with Leandros Lane (open every day from 9am to 7pm except Thursdays)

6. Coffee Lane at 10B King Street, a brew to order cafe in the colonial part of the UNESCO designated heritage area. Operates from 11am to 8pm daily except for Thursdays.

WANTON MEE

To me, the best such soy sauce mixed egg noodles with char siew and prawn-pork dumplings (locally known as wanton mee or tok tok mee in Penang) are found in Hong Kong, Vancouver and Kuala Lumpur.  My recent experience of this dish in Penang was at the Gou Lou coffee shop ( at 55 Lorong Kampung Malabar, near the corner with Penang Road in the city centre of George Town)  The texture of the al dente noodles, with freshly made dumpling skin and accompanying vinegar green chili cuts - make this rated a 7 out of ten; only the red lined char siew could improve in my opinion.  Also to try in the same coffee shop - sar hor fun, with broad rice noodles, seafood and a zesty wok stir fry aroma; and pan mee, those hand made noodles that first came to peninsular Malaya through Sabah and China.

(Note - within the Chinatown section of the UNESCO Heritage walking trail area)

Suggested Other Sources of Wanton Mee:

1. Sai Lam where Chulia and Carnavon Streets
meet, a true street side experience.
2. Chee Meng Cafe, 20 Dato Koyah Road, near upper Penang Road. Closed on Tuesdays 

and otherwise open from 7am to 1pm.

3. Tai Wah Coffee House, 86 Argyll Road. Closed every Tuesday, otherwise open from 730am to 1130am.

4. Pop up stall in front of the Union Girls Primary School, Burma Road (only at night)

BAK KUT TEH

Bak kut teh, with herbal mixes in the dark soup, accompanied by succulent stewed pork ribs, was created by Chinese immigrants for working class consumption in 19th century Malaya and Singapore.  It has nutritive qualities apart from being eaten at any time of the day, but more popular at night.  Fennel seeds, cinnamon, cloves, star anise and dang gui Chinese herbs are utilised to prepare the soup in  flurry of fusion between south-east Asian and Chinese culinary influences.

Often served with hot piping smoked tea like at yum cha sessions, there are related servings of the deep fried yau char kwai (Cantonese for deep fried crullers or you tiao in Mandarin), fish balls, mushrooms and stir-fried greens.  The version above was served at Aristoga , an informal dining area under an elevated warehouse cover but open to the sea breezes along Penang's iconic Gurney Drive.   Street parking is limited so many customers do park their vehicles at the nearby Corner Club and this cafe is also near the long established New Zealand Cafe.  My rating for the Aristoga  Bak Kut Teh?  A 7 out of ten.  The Aristoga is open from early morning till night time. 

(Note - within walking distance of the Gurney and Paragon shopping centres)

Suggested Other Sources of Bak Kut Teh:

1. Super Lai Lai BKT, at corner of Naning and Macalister Roads, a walk of a few blocks from lower Penang Road. Closed on Thursdays,  otherwise open in the evenings every day from 6pm till 1am.  Opposite the Red Rock Hotel.

PORK CONGEE

Modest looking as it may be, the pork based congee is one of my favourite comfort food dishes. With the stock soup brewed overnight, before being dished out in the morning, it is a benign choice for old and young alike. The key is in its stock - followed by the freshness and suppleness of its varied ingredients and garnishing.  You have to slice it thin and bite-size, whether you just have the minced pork, pig liver, cooked innards, spring onions or more. A choice of good rice and pepper gives the X factor.  The picture above shows the variety served at the Hon Kei Food Corner/ Cafe located at 45 Lorong Kampung Malabar in central Georgetown, open for business from morning.  My score for this bak moey dish is a 7.5 out of ten.

(Note - within the Chinatown section of the UNESCO Heritage walking trail area)

Suggested Other Sources of Pork Congee:

1.  Pop up pork congee stall on street side in front of the Ho Ping Cafe at Lorong Kampung Malabar from 6pm to midnight every evening.  You sit on chairs at tables just opened for the few hours and there is a community feel to the experience.
2. Chee Cheong Chok stall at the corner of New Lane and Macalister Road, from 5pm until sold out (outside the heritage zone but a few blocks away from lower Penang Road)

Suggested Sources of Chicken Congee:

1. Yee Sang Kai Chok along Cintra Street (near to junction with Chulia Street) -  again only at night from 8pm but closed on Sundays.

LOBAK

Lobak, or deep fried soy bean skin rolls with a pork packing inside, accompanied by hay ken (or deep fried battered shrimp snacks) are great with beer and served with a choice of sauces (one brown and another chili hot) and cut cucumber slices.  Servings are delicate and compact at this Hon Kei Food Corner/ Cafe outlet but every bite is yummy.  I found this particular lobak shown above crunchy outside, not salty and with quality ingredients inside, with no over whelming hint of the Chinese five spice powder used to marinate the meat.
My rating is for an eight out of ten.

(Note - within the Chinatown section of the UNESCO Heritage walking trail area)

Suggested Other Sources of Lobak:
1. Kheng Pin Cafe, 80 penang Road, at the corner of Penang and Sri Bahari Roads.  Backpackers can recognise this aging corner coffeeshop if they hang around upper Penang Road, buy their nutmegs at nearby Chowrasta Market and have their share of roti canai at roadside stalls and and consume their Nasi Kandar at Line Clear.  Closed on Mondays, open from 7am to 3pm.

2. Kek Seng coffee shop, 382-384 Penang Road, open daily from 8am to 5pm.

Map of Georgetown - Copyright Chiang-mai.org

The staff preparing the lobak at the Hon Kei Food Corner/Cafe are energetic, confident and know their stuff!

OTHER DISHES RECOMMENDED:

1.  Kaya spread toast, poached eggs and local Penang coffee - Toh Soon Cafe , near corner of Campbell Street and Upper Penang Road. 7 to 8am every day.
2. Hainan Chicken Rice - Tho Yuen Chicken Rice Restaurant, 94 Campbell Street. Open 6am to 3pm every day.
3. Straits Chinese snacks and cakes - Moh Teng Phew Nyonya Kueh, Jalan Mesjid, off Chulia Street. Closed on Mondays.
4. Ban Chien Kueh or the peanut filled pancake laden with smashed corn, at the Pulau Tikus morning markets  or in the evenings from 6pm, at the Anson Road pop up stall in front of the Lok Pin coffee shop

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POST NOTE: Do plan your route ahead when exploring Georgetown's street food.  Public transport quality can be patchy and not on schedule.  I recommend hiring a bicycle/motor bike/ car or getting a friend to drive! The weather can be warm, humid or rainy at times.  Always have pocket tissues with you, for unlike in Australia and New Zealand, no vendor offers such tissues with your food. Always be ready to be able to pack snacks or left overs. Be careful when crossing streets for motor cycles, usually small powered Hondas, as there can be a casualness with these local riders on narrow streets and pavements, especially in the UNESCO designated heritage zones. Most businesses open late from 11am.  

At the time of this posting, most of the dishes recommended in this blog post cost from Malaysian Ringgit 3 to 5 per serving.  Coffee and most other drinks  in traditional coffee shops can be yours for a couple of Malaysian ringgit on average. The GST is planned to be introduced to Malaysia from April 2015. For local barista places, be prepared to pay around Malaysian Ringgit 4 to 8 for their drinks.

Common Malay words in maps are as follows: Jalan is a road, and Lebuh refers to a street, Solok indicates a cul-de-sac, Lorong means Lane and Lebuhraya is an  avenue.  Jalan sehala indicates one way only for vehicle traffic.

Have on hand small currency notes - and a coin purse to handle change.  When consuming street food on a provided table in a food court or traditional coffee shop, you are expected to order drinks from the drinks stall. Street food stalls can be finicky handling opening hours, it can depend  on their other job, festive days and ingredients running out. The above food outlets featured in this specific blog post are open in the mornings at least until lunchtime, unless otherwise stated.  Portions can be rather small when compared to what you have in Asian outlets in Western countries but it is a perfect opportunity to sample the variety of what is available before you go to hit the gym, beach or park.  Acknowledgement and thanks to several of my family and friends, especially Mr Philip Yeoh, for their valued guidance and efforts in helping us identify and visit a spectrum of street food places in February 2015. Feedback from readers of this blog post is most welcome.