Albee's, Kingsford NSW

The wide variety of choices in Chinese Malaysian and Straits Chinese street food and cuisine, first consumed in Campsie,  is also now available in Albee's sister branch in the university precinct of Kingsford in greater Sydney.  This signifies a widening of options in the Malaysian food scene in Sydney. Previously options were confined to the north-west and there was much lament when compared to what Melbournians had. In the past several months, the variety was made more available in Sydney CBD and now in southern suburbs. When is commercial Malaysian food coming to Wollongong and the Central Coast - that can be a brave question.

Such cuisine can be construed around a five part meal, although any resident in and visitor to Malaysia knows that people there eat anytime around the clock.  With Albee's, I can have an entree of chunky vegetarian curry puff (with both potato and sweet potato mush inside and that distinctive one half of a hard boiled egg).  Another good starter is the good old reliable satay skewers with an uplifting peanut-based spicy and chili infused sauce. Then I sip my teh tarik whilst going into my mains - usually a clay pot of hot and aromatic noodles, Hainan chicken drumstick rice or a more exotic dish like fish head curry ala south Indian style.   Then it is time for some sweetening, and Straits Chinese fare (refer to picture above) are never regrettable. The only common thing about Chinese Malaysian desserts is its extensive use of coconut milk in the various petite creations.  I highly recommend the talam cake with its smooth white top and green underbelly. To top it all and then stagger from a Chinese Malaysian meal, wind up with ais kacang - laden with syrupy garnish and mixed with hidden bits of black jelly, cream corn and sago palm fruit.  At this juncture, I am thankful that Asian meals are usually communal based and meant to be shared with your fellow diners at the same table - so anyone does not have to eat it all and can sample more food for better variety.

My visit to Albee's in Kingsford for the first time gave me an opportunity to try their curry laksa. Any decent so-called Malaysian street food outlet has this iconic dish - perhaps popularised  by the Malay-Chinese chain around Sydney CBD in the  nineties, then with 20 cent paper bibs and all to ensure no staining of your corporate tie and suit.  I reckon this dish is a good measure of your evaluation of such joints on debut try outs, whether from Jackie's in Concord to Sambal in North Ryde to Temasek's in Parramatta.  The all important soup in a laksa should not be over rich with coconut cream but allow the other spices and ingredients to seep through and above any chili effect.  The next critical test comes with the texture, freshness and variety of the ingredients accompanying the noodles.   Diners should also be given options in what type of noodles and not just given the often standard mix of vermicelli and Hokkien yellow noodles. Personally I prefer Cantonese-fashioned egg noodles to go with my laksa.  Any al dente effect of the noodles you get on your bite from your served bowl is a bonus.

On this same visit, I encountered ice cold teh tarik, or latte tea with that cinnamon twist.  I took it as an ethnic milkshake, one that was both gratifying on the taste and also went well with the food at Albee's.
Service, as with the  Campsie cafe, was quick and friendly.  The overflowing number of menu items are also plastered on the surrounding walls but the read hand held menu has been modernised in graphics and presentation. This venue is a welcome place for a family or a group.  We did not feel people impinging on each other's space and Anzac Parade outside the door looked safe and suburban.
Albee's in Kingsford is accessible by easy bus routes from Sydney CBD.  Parking of your car is also more relaxed when compared to some inner city suburbs.  Why just go for yum cha meals on a lazy weekend arvo?  Try this Chinese Malaysian option when you can.

Papparich, Chatswood NSW

The kopi tiam of old Malaya has been revitalised into a modern setting, with dark brown panel surroundings, Australian sourced ingredients for classic dishes from street and home of another era, another place and another cuisine.  As immigration from Malaysia continues to flow into the Antipodes, the soul food of childhood and family for many of these arrivals are represented and repackaged for another generation.  Does this symbolise the infusion of more Asia into a continental island that is so close geographically and yet have remained for most years apart, culturally and politically? Australia offers a fresh start for the adventurous, disenfranchised and business dynamic from other lands - and in return it is enriched with new thoughts, new cuisines and new colours.

South Indian rotis, Cantonese noodles, Straits Chinese snacks, Eurasian cakes, Malay satay sticks, Indonesian nasi lemak, Western influenced breads, Hainan chicken rice and amazing drink combinations ( Ribena and water melon slices?) litter the interesting menus at Papparich outlets. The food is already a fusion from a few hundred years of demographic intermixing above the Equator - and now they arrive in another land of more than just a few racial groups. Australia will have a pride of its own evolving and distinctive cuisine in the future.  In the meantime, this nation absorbs, allows and experiments.  White coffee is mixed with milk tea (cham) and longans are dropped in soya milk honey.   Silken tofu is served cold and lightly laced with a palm sugar syrup.   Roti canai is provided  with chocolate, ice cream and banana cuts in a heady colonial era theme.  Bread slices coated with a coconut cream custard called kaya can be ordered at any time of the day and night, and not just at breakfast time.  The staff are mostly with East Asian and Indian faces, unlike those at Papparich branches back in the homeland.

On a cold weekend, I relished the comforts of a simple combo of soft congee with steamed chicken a la Hainan (photo above).  This most subtle of a meal requires great care in preparation, to ensure that flavours rise above the apparent plain look and that garnishings and sauces do not over whelm our palates but instead give us an overall warm feeling of satisfaction inside. Soothing, this can be looked forward by those sensing an impeding cold setting in or savoured by the elderly or their grandchildren without any hint of complications for digestion.

The plethora of street food familiar to most Australians these days - curry laksa, char koay teow and prawn mee - are available, but some with a twist.  How about curry laksa with cockles off their shell?
White coloured rice noodles can be served dry or stir fried in a wet rich gravy. Are you game for a Thai inspired dish utilising tamarind and flaky fish in the unusual soup - the assam laksa?  I am surprised that you can even order a plate of deep fried chicken skin, something so niche but great to accompany with beer.  And don't forget - you can have your yum cha offerings like dumplings and vegetarian rolls as well.  What a melting pot!

Kingsford NSW - Food Street

The Kingsford section of Anzac Parade, between the adjoining Middle and Meeks Streets, has in the recent few months become even more of a food hub for a variety of Asian food.  Sydneysiders know that Kingsford, which lies like a fifteen minute drive south-east of the city centre on a good day, is also a residential  focus for 18 to 25 year olds, mostly customers of the University of NSW in nearby Kensington and a mecca for the various nationalities from South-east Asia, China and Hong Kong.  Apart from English, the predominant languages you hear spoken on the streets are often Indonesian, Hokkien, Mandarin and Cantonese.  Above, a Japanese outlet with transparency, not far from the roundabout - there I was at the bottom right hand side, trying to take this shot.

Kingsford once had hopes of being joined to the Sydney rail network but that plan was dashed by cost cutting in the late 70s and the line terminated at Bondi Junction instead.  Today the theme is food, as illustrated by the view shown above, walking along the pavement towards the roundabout - a series of well known cafes specialising in yogurt, gelato and Malaysian street food.  The Petaling Street chain  is well known in Melbourne circles and refers to the main street in Kuala Lumpur's Chinatown. This outlet in Kingsford joins its Sydney Chinatown branch opened around two years ago.  The latter joint is narrow, crowded and has dining in a basement.  The one in Kingsford is spacious, offers so much better light inside and outside and sits on a raised floor overlooking Anzac Parade.  Lovers of KL Cantonese and street food
will check out what Petaling Street provides - my favourites there are claypot noodles, ice kacang dessert and chicken satay skewers.  Their competitor is only a few doors away along Anzac Parade - Albee's - with its unique chunky curry puffs, fish head curry, Hainan chicken rice, char koay teow and lobak (Straits Chinese pork rolls) counted as my preferred choices there.

Odea's Corner (above) now stands in contrast to the medium high rise apartment block behind it. On an early August Saturday, it was rather warm for a winter season but the sky was deep blue and the trees still bare.  Small groceries, service shops and newsagents dot the main commercial strip that is Anzac Parade, but behind just a row of shops are housing, mainly units, a lot perched on hilly land, many old and with a varied past.  Vehicle parking can be intensely competitive around lunch times. Eastgardens Westfield shopping centre is only a ten minute drive away and Coogee Beach beckons past Randwick to the east.

I came across a strikingly easy to read display of Indonesian street food - the dishes offered look more Sumatran than Balinese, but I loved the simplicity of it all.  Satay skewers from Padang, chicken slow cooked in yellow curry, the popular gado gado salad and hard boiled eggs served in a chili based sambal all sounded to me like what South-east Asian backpackers want and do eat!  Ayam Goreng 99 is not too far away, offering deep fried chook in various cuts and styled servings from Java. Indonesian food outlets have been operating for more than 20 years in Kingsford - some are halal, others are not, some run by ethnic Indonesians and others run by Chinese families with Indonesian names.   Buck-Me Jellico restaurant takes a pun on the name of one of its main dishes ( bak-mee). Ubud offers Balinese fare, Palembang Pampek Noodle is from Sumatra and there are two Rasas to choose from - Indo Rasa and Sedap Rasa.

The Greeks used to dominate Kingsford, and they came mostly en mass from the Mediterranean island of Castellorizo, as symbolised by the Castellorizian Club along the very winding and long Anzac Parade itself.  It is interesting to note that the UNSW has been graduating many international and domestic students of Asian  heritage for the past 50 or more years - and it is no surprise to know that over a fifth of Kingsford's residents claim Chinese ancestry, whilst those with Greek background now number less than 9 percent.  There are more residents in Kingsford of Asian origin than those with English roots or true blue Aussies.  The suburb, part of the Randwick Shire, is close to the Sydney Airport, otherwise known as Charles Kingsford Smith Airport.

Dong Dong Noodles (picture above) has been my fav easy and casual Hong Kong styled cafe, where for more than 15 years I get to gobble endless egg noodle strands mixed with a sweet yet savoury sauce and served with bits of char siew, duck cuts, roast pork with crispy skin or soy flavoured steamed or roast chicken.  Here, in a narrow spaced shop with seating in front and also at the back, customers, mostly youngsters, couples or family groups, enjoy soul food from southern China without fuss and with a relatively quiet sense of contention. There are condiments concocted from cut ginger, pounded garlic and vinegar, but rarely a chili can be seen, unless you specifically ask, and then it is just a chili sauce and not fresh cut chili strips.

Shihlin offers Taiwan street styled snacks, to resolve the need for a hunger pang at any time of the day or when you may not want a full serve meal.  Modelled like a fast food outlet, and named after the Shihlin markets in Taiwan, with earlier opened outlets in Indonesia, Subang Jaya in Malaysia and Somerset in Singapore, the business seems ethnocentric.

It has signature dishes like crispy floss egg crepe, sweet plum potato fries, seafood tempura and hand made oyster flavoured mee sua (thin noodles), reflecting the melting pot of influences from Japan, Fujian and native Taiwanese itself.   Its focused market is clear - the next branch in Australia is at One Central Park in the southern end of Sydney CBD where Chinatown meets Broadway. Even Simon Reeve of the BBC production on Australia today could not help to remark how Asian the streets of Sydney have become, although he did not get to see Kingsford.