Ha Noi, Vietnam - Water Puppets

The Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre is a treat, with a performing arts form that is unique to Vietnam.  The theatre is located near the Hoan Kiem Lake, a gathering focal point for tai chi practitioners at dawn, strolling tourists and sitting locals in the afternoons and much vehicular traffic in the evenings.  Referred to as roi nuoc by the locals, water puppetry articulates themed plays symbolic of the tensions between  good and evil, illustrative of the history of the Viet peoples and demonstrative of the varied lifestyles and demographics in current day Vietnam.  The stage of water is usually four meters square and up to eight puppeteers are often involved in performances.

The ty ba, a light wood made instrument with four strings on its distinctive long neck, was played at our concert on a mid week evening, the final show of several during the day staged to packed audiences.  As evident in the accompanying photographs, this was not the only musical device or cultural accessory utilised.  The traditional singing of cheo ( a form of local opera) was pleasant, not jarring and the use of electronic screens with English subtitles is an excellent idea for the audience who come from diverse backgrounds.  Live music can be provided by an orchestra that uses cymbals, bamboo flutes, gongs,horns, wooden bells, the monochord and drums, all to back up the all important vocals.

Each performance was around an hour.   A captivating display of the puppets used can be viewed outside the auditorium.  The Thang Long troupe has performed around the world, including in Sydney, Australia. However, nothing beats enjoying the experience in its own locale.  The craft and art of puppets that dance on water originated in the Red River Delta in the northern part of Vietnam.  The wooden puppets are actually lacquered.

Hue, Vietnam - Making of Cone Shaped Hats

Referred to as "non la" or literally, leaf hat, in Vietnamese, such cone shaped hats protect the wearer from the harsh sun of the tropics and equatorial areas - and are seen through out most of South and south-east Asia. Comparable versions are also found in Korea and Japan with temperate climes.  With my travel mates, I had the opportunity to view how such hats were made in Hue in central Vietnam.

The natural  young leaves are gathered, softened by dew, dried or flattened by ironing or processed further by heating them over a charcoal flame pot ( in picture on the right, the green item).  This causes the leaves to transform into a light brown textured colour (photos below) before being placed  on a conical frame.  It is all hand made, a rarity in a world of fast turnover, manufactured processes and similar patterns and shapes.  The quality of such hats are judged by the regularity of the leaf arrangement, the absence of visible knots and the roundness of the resulting rim.

Paper cut patterns are placed over the set leaves (photo above) in a near final stage of the handicraft demonstration.   The leaves can vary in origin - they can be the bark of the Moc tree, bamboo or palm leaves.  The paper cuts are unique in the making of the Non Bai Tho or the poem hat, which are unique to the previously royal city of Hue - and their specialty is based on poem lyric lines or pictures of things that can only be seen through sunlight under the leaf layered sunk designs.  The significance of such conical hats is linked to the tradition of maternal love and the practice of padi growing in Vietnam.  Interesting enough, women wore more broad-rimmed hats than men.  I observe that the best cone shaped Vietnamese hats are made in Hue and no where else.  There can be a practical difficulty in packing such hats in airline baggage unless they are miniature versions bought as souvenir displays.

Sydney NSW - Christmas Time

Palomino Cafe along York Street near Wynyard Park has an extensive menu but really good coffee options.
Thier neighbour is  a business rival - a cafe called Loaf & Devotion.

Prawn flavoured stock soup with Hokkien noodles, spinach and hard boiled egg at the Malay Chinese Takeaway, Hunter Street.

Soothing candles greet guests at the entrance to La Rosa, serving unique Italian inspired dishes with a wine bar at the top floor of the Strand Arcade.  Personally I found no fault with their pig trotters, sans claws and bones, presented beautifully in a tender package and bathed with tomato based gravy.

The Circa Cafe in Parramatta at 21 Wentworth Street is tucked away in a hidden corner not far from the rail station and is popular with Gen Y all huddled on low chairs and tables in what seems to be a dingy street scene joint.  below, the Strand Arcade between Wynyard and Town Hall sections of Sydney and leading to either a main thoroughfare of George Street or the Pitt Street Mall.